Ok all you experts. I need your help. I want to get into long range shooting for myself and to teach my daughters as we go. I have a budget that I would like to stay under for production gun of $1500 (not including scope). Would like to have something we can upgrade as we go before jumping into a full on custom build. Ive been looking hard and doing a lot of searches on here in the last 24 hours and haven't really found what i was looking for. I have came across of course the RPR Gen 3, the Savage 110, Performance Center T/C LRR (which after watching the few youtube vidoes that are out there - I kinda like especially for the money). Besides these what else is out there? Any problems with certains ones that I need to watch out for? Ive read the Savages have extractor problems and a trigger or two problem on the Performance Centers but haven't dabbled deed into the RPR threads much yet to find any opposing opinions or problems with them. I know I will eventually upgrade the muzzle brakes, bipods and maybe grips as we go so that cost is accounted for already. But what is a good starting point. Thanks guys for the advice in advance and it may be up to 24 hrs before I can respond back.
- Thread starter DonHD1975
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Howa sells several different chassis rifles.
They sell the mini-action is a chassis, chambered in 6.5 grendel, which would be an excellent introductory cartridge.
bulletin.accurateshooter.com I shoot an RPR, it is a very good rifle and extremely accurate.
It is heavy for a 20" barreled rifle (.308).
They sell the mini-action is a chassis, chambered in 6.5 grendel, which would be an excellent introductory cartridge.
Howa Mini Action « Daily Bulletin
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It is heavy for a 20" barreled rifle (.308).
Look into the Tikka TAC A1... can find them in the PX section on here for at that or below.
Tikka
RPR. Or a Bergara premier Pro
Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor ... all day long - twice on Sundays.
I like the “easy button” remark. Lol. Nice touch. Lol.
For sure going 6.5 creedmoor
I’m gonna mention the elephant in the room. Remington 700p sku 86672. It comes with 24” threaded barrel, hs precision stock, and 40x trigger for $750 at arms unlimited.
Tikka, but I'll be a little more specific to help you out:
Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" or 20" barrel doesn't matter all that much. If you have an extra $100 in your pocket, get the stainless.
Also purchase a KRG Bravo stock.
Your profile doesn't list what state you live in right now. If you live in a state that allows suppressors, you're going to own one eventually. That is a good reason to get a rifle with a threaded barrel (like the CTR). If you live in a state that does not allow suppressors, you can save ~$150 on the Tikka and get the Varmint model instead of the CTR.
Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" or 20" barrel doesn't matter all that much. If you have an extra $100 in your pocket, get the stainless.
Also purchase a KRG Bravo stock.
Your profile doesn't list what state you live in right now. If you live in a state that allows suppressors, you're going to own one eventually. That is a good reason to get a rifle with a threaded barrel (like the CTR). If you live in a state that does not allow suppressors, you can save ~$150 on the Tikka and get the Varmint model instead of the CTR.
I have one in 243 like that but black. I bought the chassis and buttstock and added my barreled action. It shoots darn good too.
RPR. There’s also one on the classifieds right now that’s right at your budget and has over $1K worth of upgrades on it too.
www.snipershide.com
SOLD - Ruger Precision Rifle, 6mm Creedmoor, Proof Research, Seekins MLOK, Magpul PRS, APA Gen 3 LB, $1400
Selling a very good condition Gen 2 RPR with a 24” Proof Research Steel barrel in 6 Creedmoor. Rifle is very accurate and has just 600 rounds on the barrel. Handloads with H4831 and 105 Hybrids clock at 3030fps. Also has a Seekins SP3R 15” handguard with MLOK, Magpul PRS stock, and a APA Gen 3...
www.snipershide.com A few people have asked me similar questions and I tend to point them to the Remington 700 PCR chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor (item 84586). I can’t tell you the difference in performance from the other brands mentioned above but I’ve had a great experience upgrading two Remington 700s while learning what I like and don’t like in a long range bolt gun. I’ve seen the PCR anywhere from $850 to $950 which leaves plenty of money in your budget for upgrades if you decide you don’t like something about your rifle. I don’t think I’d recommend the PCR-Enhanced as I think the extra $600-$700 you spend isn’t worth a factory fluted barrel, upgraded buttstock and trigger.
Another route you could take is the Dicks Sporting Goods 700 ADL-Tactical chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor (EDIT: these are $399 right now) along with the chassis of your choice. Take the barreled action from the rifle and put it right into a chassis, don’t even shoot it with the cheap plastic stock. Remember to pick up a magazine. I’ve taken this route with two different rifles now and been more than happy with the results. In time you’ll probably want a better barrel than what comes from Remington and you’ll have plenty in the budget for a quality barrel and gunsmith.
Good luck with your decision.
-Brad
Another route you could take is the Dicks Sporting Goods 700 ADL-Tactical chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor (EDIT: these are $399 right now) along with the chassis of your choice. Take the barreled action from the rifle and put it right into a chassis, don’t even shoot it with the cheap plastic stock. Remember to pick up a magazine. I’ve taken this route with two different rifles now and been more than happy with the results. In time you’ll probably want a better barrel than what comes from Remington and you’ll have plenty in the budget for a quality barrel and gunsmith.
Good luck with your decision.
-Brad
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The Remington adl varmint in a krg bravo works good. The Adl varmint is like $500 at cabelas or bass pro and the bravo is about $350 so it’s not too bad.
Howa/KRG Bravo combo are awesome value and they shoot.
Tikka Tac A1 (second hand for your budget) is a solid option.
Tikka Tac A1 (second hand for your budget) is a solid option.
Hmmm??? oh well, I thought I did put that in my profile. Im in Kentucky, Central to be exact. And I am pretty sure we do allow suppressors. I did plan on one eventually. I have taken the weekend to look at Tikka a LOT more than before. I have to say I am very impressed in the T3X Tact A1. I love the looks of that rifle for sure. I have since went away from the Savage models after getting to hold a couple this weekend. I noticed the bolt action was awkward and very loose and not smooth at all. The Tikka however was like butter smooth and the whole rifle in general was a great fit. A little heavy for my daughter but she's only 16 and weighs a buck O five to start. lol
Let's talk for a minute and define what we're really trying to accomplish with this rifle. If this is going to be a bench rifle, prone rifle, PRS game style rifle, then weight is your friend because it soaks up recoil. I did not get the impression that your daughter(s) was going to haul this thing up a mountain. I have a Tikka T3x Varmint in a KRG Bravo with a Vortex Viper PST2 5-25x50 scope and I added weight to my rig with steal length of pull spacers to get the weight above 13#s. To many people, that is considered light weight because their rifles are 18#s. On the other hand, my hunting rifle is also a 6.5CM and I chopped/threaded the barrel and it weighs 8# 7oz with the scope and suppressor, but I surely wouldn't want to shoot it all day.
Another Tikka tac A1 vote. Shop around and you should be 1600. Awesome gun for the price and I think they still come with enough mags to get you going.
I have a 6.5 Creedmoor RPR that has an aftermarket barrel on it. And I just finished a Tikka T3x custom build in a McMillan A5 stock. I really like both rifles, but it took almost 2,000 rounds to got the RPR action to be as smooth as my brand new Tikka.
It you can swing the coin for a Tikka Tac, that would be my recommendation for a production rifle to shoot for PRS, or really any type of precision style shooting.
I would recommend the 24” barrel it you plan to shoot really long range. It will shoot quite a bit faster than a 20” with a not-so-hot load.
Good luck shopping, and I hope you find a deal on the rifle you end up buying.
It you can swing the coin for a Tikka Tac, that would be my recommendation for a production rifle to shoot for PRS, or really any type of precision style shooting.
I would recommend the 24” barrel it you plan to shoot really long range. It will shoot quite a bit faster than a 20” with a not-so-hot load.
Good luck shopping, and I hope you find a deal on the rifle you end up buying.
Yeah it will most likely be the Tikka T3 Tac A1 for a more PRS style. We may actually get a chance to go watch one this weekend. I have to make sure I have my dates right but I think there is one within a couple hrs drive of us. Don't hold me to it though. lol
Man I can't tell you how many times I've watched videos on the Tikka since Friday. After being on here and talking and listening to you guys, I am pretty much sold on the T3 Tac A1 in 6.5 CM. I've been watching Buds, Cabela's, and Sportsman's Warehouse for them since Sunday. Any place else I should be keeping an eye on like Gundealio or one of the other auction type places? Can't remember the name right this second.
Eurooptic.com sometimes has deals on them. They have the 20" barrel 308 win on sale for $1198 right now.
Call EuroOptic and ask them for their best price. It's not going to be a huge difference, but they can knock a bit off of it.
Any time you are buying a production rifle, you are playing the mass manufacturing lottery. Sure there are good Rem 700s coming off the assembly line still, but more by accident than by nominal quality standards. If you are buying mass production, you want to place the most sure bet you possibly can. And in the price range you are talking about, Tikka is the undisputed king.
I have had 3 Tikka's in my circle including my current deer rifle, and every one of them is an excellent firearm. Smooth actions, great barrels off the same line as Sako's, and all-around well-built. They have a solid factory trigger as well, something that can't be said for a lot of other brands. If you are buying something that you know needs a trigger before you ever even get started, you need to factor that into the price. A Tikka needs a $15 trigger spring kit.
I also have 2 Howas, which are about the best in their price range. I Have a Howa APC in 223 that is just ridiculous for a factory gun, shooting consistently under .5MOA with factory FGMM 69s. I also have a Howa 308 barreled action in a KRG chassis, but it just doesn't shoot as well as the 223. It is still around/slightly under .75MOA with FGMM 175s, and that is not bad, but nothing like the 223. The 308 has the occasional flyer, but the 223 never has one. I suspect a hand load will help the 308 a lot, but I doubt it will ever shoot like the 223.
So my point to all of this is that you can't say that Brand X or Brand Y is good based on one rifle and one experience by one shooter. Look at the overall picture, and you will see that statistically the Tikka is likely to be a better rifle than any of the other brands mentioned here. That doesn't mean that you won't get a lemon from Tikka, but the percentages play better for you than with any other brand.
Here is the model of one of the Tikkas in my circle:
My friend has one in 308, and it shoots absolute circles around my Howa/KRG. Easy .5MOA with the same FGGM 175 or 168 (my Howa doesn't like the 168s). Last time we were shooting long range, he hit an IPSC torso target 8 in a row from 830 meters in a decent wind once he walked in the dope. My Howa was doing good to connect 30-40% of the hits. There is just no comparison between the two guns.
I have had 3 Tikka's in my circle including my current deer rifle, and every one of them is an excellent firearm. Smooth actions, great barrels off the same line as Sako's, and all-around well-built. They have a solid factory trigger as well, something that can't be said for a lot of other brands. If you are buying something that you know needs a trigger before you ever even get started, you need to factor that into the price. A Tikka needs a $15 trigger spring kit.
I also have 2 Howas, which are about the best in their price range. I Have a Howa APC in 223 that is just ridiculous for a factory gun, shooting consistently under .5MOA with factory FGMM 69s. I also have a Howa 308 barreled action in a KRG chassis, but it just doesn't shoot as well as the 223. It is still around/slightly under .75MOA with FGMM 175s, and that is not bad, but nothing like the 223. The 308 has the occasional flyer, but the 223 never has one. I suspect a hand load will help the 308 a lot, but I doubt it will ever shoot like the 223.
So my point to all of this is that you can't say that Brand X or Brand Y is good based on one rifle and one experience by one shooter. Look at the overall picture, and you will see that statistically the Tikka is likely to be a better rifle than any of the other brands mentioned here. That doesn't mean that you won't get a lemon from Tikka, but the percentages play better for you than with any other brand.
Here is the model of one of the Tikkas in my circle:
My friend has one in 308, and it shoots absolute circles around my Howa/KRG. Easy .5MOA with the same FGGM 175 or 168 (my Howa doesn't like the 168s). Last time we were shooting long range, he hit an IPSC torso target 8 in a row from 830 meters in a decent wind once he walked in the dope. My Howa was doing good to connect 30-40% of the hits. There is just no comparison between the two guns.
Only mentioned once but I’ll throw it out there too because I’m partial. Look at the Bergara HMR Pro. You’ll get a rifle with a damned fine barrel, US premier action, Triggertech trigger, very serviceable stock with mini chassis, and guaranteed 1MOA but most I’ve seen shoot far better. I have a Pro and a B14 and both shoot 1/4 MOA regularly with my hand loads. You won’t need to change the stock or trigger out. Just add optic and get shooting. Regard has the barrel making game down pat.
Lots of recommendations for both tikka and Howa. I have both. They are both great guns but I will say the feeding, smoothness, fit and finish of the Tikka is definitely a step above the Howa. Both are accurate in my not so expert hands but I’d give the nod to the Tikka here as well.
I agree with this 100%. Like I said, the Howa is about the best in its price range, but at around twice the price, the Tikka is just superior in about every way.
The Howa stuff is great Japanese-made equipment if you are operating in a lower budget range. You can pick up a barrelled action from Brownell's, get a chassis of your choice, and have a good, solid precision rifle for $1000-1500ish depending on exactly what you get. There is simply nothing else on the market that has the same nominal quality and accuracy in this price range. And the factory trigger just needs a spring kit to be more than sufficient for a gun in this price range, where most everything else needs an aftermarket trigger. The factory Howa trigger is not quite as good as the Tikka, but still good.
One other thing that has not been mentioned here is that most of the factory chassis guns come equipped with an AR-style butt stock. I have found these to be very sub-standard for a true precision gun. They don't have the adjustability or rigidity that is needed. There are some aftermarket AR-style precision stocks that can be changed out, but they are not cheap. So by the time you buy a factory chassis gun and replace the stock, you have spent just as much, maybe more, than buying an action and an aftermarket chassis. Something for everyone looking to go this route to think about
The Howa stuff is great Japanese-made equipment if you are operating in a lower budget range. You can pick up a barrelled action from Brownell's, get a chassis of your choice, and have a good, solid precision rifle for $1000-1500ish depending on exactly what you get. There is simply nothing else on the market that has the same nominal quality and accuracy in this price range. And the factory trigger just needs a spring kit to be more than sufficient for a gun in this price range, where most everything else needs an aftermarket trigger. The factory Howa trigger is not quite as good as the Tikka, but still good.
One other thing that has not been mentioned here is that most of the factory chassis guns come equipped with an AR-style butt stock. I have found these to be very sub-standard for a true precision gun. They don't have the adjustability or rigidity that is needed. There are some aftermarket AR-style precision stocks that can be changed out, but they are not cheap. So by the time you buy a factory chassis gun and replace the stock, you have spent just as much, maybe more, than buying an action and an aftermarket chassis. Something for everyone looking to go this route to think about
If I had to do it all over again, I would pick up a Tikka CTR 24" 6.5CM. The CTR from what I can tell is exactly the same barrel and action as the TAC, but with a single stage trigger and a garbage plastic stock. In fact, the TSR-1 I referenced earlier is the older T3 version of the CTR SS action and trigger in a McRees chassis. The CTRs are around $1100, or $1200 for stainless (I would pony up for stainless, but not that important). A $15 spring kit and an aftermarket recoil lug and I have my complete donor action.
Then I would get an aftermarket chassis for it. Looking at KRG equipment, which I know from personal use is solid quality stuff, a KRG Bravo is under $400, a KRG X-Ray is $450, or a KRG Whiskey 3 is $900. Other companies have similarly-priced chassis and stock options as well, but I can't give any direct feedback as I have never used them. So using KRG stuff as an example you could have anywhere from about $1500 for a non-SS Bravo, all the way up to a Whiskey-3/SS setup for under $2100 (this would be my recommendation if the money is there).
Not I am not stuck on KRG, in fact I would likely do something different for myself at this point just to have another data point. But I know KRG is solid, and that is why I would recommend them to anyone else. No way would I ever buy another chassis with an AR stock, and that includes the TAC A1.
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Howa or RPR. If you go to the tikka price tag, just go to the px and pick up a custom action and setup around $2k. Tikkas are nice, but you are most the way to a used custom.
Vote here for the Howa Barreled Action and then Slapped into my chassis of choice (KRG Bravo). I'm easily under $1000. My install was tightening three screws.
From the extensive research I did--you've got good recommendations all around. Bergara, RPR, Tikka. Find what's important to you. If you want your preference in chassis, get a Howa and choose your setup (installing a chassis has been super simple). You want the best of the actions? Tikka. All around rifle you can grow on, rebarrel and custimze? RPR. Good all-around value? Bergara. Lots of good choices.
From the extensive research I did--you've got good recommendations all around. Bergara, RPR, Tikka. Find what's important to you. If you want your preference in chassis, get a Howa and choose your setup (installing a chassis has been super simple). You want the best of the actions? Tikka. All around rifle you can grow on, rebarrel and custimze? RPR. Good all-around value? Bergara. Lots of good choices.
realistically the Tikka CTR is not that much more expensive than a Howa barreled action plus rail, stock, chassis and magazine.
Tikka CTR = $1100 ish
Howa action $550, KRG bravo $375, Magazine $60, Rail $60
Granted, I wound up putting my CTR in a Manners T4A after a while, but the factory stock will suffice for a while.
Tikka CTR = $1100 ish
Howa action $550, KRG bravo $375, Magazine $60, Rail $60
Granted, I wound up putting my CTR in a Manners T4A after a while, but the factory stock will suffice for a while.
From my observations, the Howa stuff is consistently on average a good bit better than the RPR. And about the same price range.
This is true, but comparing a used price item to a new price item is a bit unfair.
And most people don't sell good custom rifles. Usually if they are for sale, they are old, outdated, or don't do their job very well.
Except the CTR's stock is nowhere even close in ergonomics, bedding, and functionality to a KRG Bravo.
this is true. I have the bravo on my Howa and love it. but in the spectrum of our sport, the $300ish difference is less in the long term.
Hey guys. Been away for a couple days. Had a small family emergency surgery. Ok so I have pretty much sold on the Tikka TAC A1. Now the task of finding one in stock someplace with the better price. Seen a few on some places for $1800 plus but also seen some for $1498-$1700 too. Lucky for me I am a patient person so I will keep watch on those websites.
Next question is a bipod for that gun. What is a good one that one break the bank HARRIS, ATLAS, MAGPUL ie.???. I'm having to spend a little more on the gun itself so I don't wanna drop another $500-$1000 (I have no idea if that's even close) on bipod. And are there any other items that need to be changed or bought besides a scope? Thanks in advance.
Next question is a bipod for that gun. What is a good one that one break the bank HARRIS, ATLAS, MAGPUL ie.???. I'm having to spend a little more on the gun itself so I don't wanna drop another $500-$1000 (I have no idea if that's even close) on bipod. And are there any other items that need to be changed or bought besides a scope? Thanks in advance.
The Bravo is hard to beat. IMO the CTR will definitely benefit from changing its stock to a bravo chassis.
I prefer the Atlas, they run under $300, exact amount depends on the specific model. But I guarantee you that a bunch are going to say Harris. To me the Atlas is just a better built piece.
You also likely need to add in extra mags. Going with the TAC means proprietary Tikka mags, close to $100 each. Compare that to AICS mags that most aftermarket chassis use at about half that price.
And you will also likely be needing to budget in the money to replace the AR buttstock. That is another $250-450. You truly would be better off to follow the advice several of us have given you and go the CTR/aftermarket chassis route. But it is your money.
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Oh yeah, and if you are shooting bipod/bag, you will greatly benefit from a bag slider. I have never shot a TAC, but just looking at the stock design I can tell it is not the greatest for using a bag. Especially if you are new to this discipline.
I'd echo some of the other guys' suggestions and say snatch a Howa Bravo (getting tougher to find because they're not making them anymore) or a gently used Tikka T3 TAC A1 (if you can find one where the barrel isn't already half cooked, new they're more like $1800ish and tough to track down too).
Nothing does more for you than a good light trigger, and with a Howa or a Tikka $10 in springs is all you need to get the OEM triggers to ~1lb. IDK if any other OEM rifles come with triggers that make it that easy on you, otherwise, pretty much with whatever you get, you've gotta scratch up that $300 for a TriggerTech Diamond or whatever...
For bipods, I was a little weary of the Atlas' price tag at first so I'm running a Harris BRMS. But after adding a Pod-Loc (required IMO), and looking at adding an ADM pic-adapter/mount so I don't have to remember to check the damn Harris' thumb screw every time I shoot... I'll almost be at what a basic pic-rail Atlas Cal costs.
I actually like that the Harris is quick to use and that there's no play in it, but if I were to do it over again I'd probably just go for the Atlas Cal. They're not really priced that bad relative to quality stuff, like look at what pretty much any ADM mount costs... shit, if they were made by Knights Armament or Geissele they'd probably cost $1000 hahahaha!
Nothing does more for you than a good light trigger, and with a Howa or a Tikka $10 in springs is all you need to get the OEM triggers to ~1lb. IDK if any other OEM rifles come with triggers that make it that easy on you, otherwise, pretty much with whatever you get, you've gotta scratch up that $300 for a TriggerTech Diamond or whatever...
For bipods, I was a little weary of the Atlas' price tag at first so I'm running a Harris BRMS. But after adding a Pod-Loc (required IMO), and looking at adding an ADM pic-adapter/mount so I don't have to remember to check the damn Harris' thumb screw every time I shoot... I'll almost be at what a basic pic-rail Atlas Cal costs.
I actually like that the Harris is quick to use and that there's no play in it, but if I were to do it over again I'd probably just go for the Atlas Cal. They're not really priced that bad relative to quality stuff, like look at what pretty much any ADM mount costs... shit, if they were made by Knights Armament or Geissele they'd probably cost $1000 hahahaha!
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