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Best bolt lube for PRS

crackerbacks

crackerbacks

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 17, 2010
455
36
SE Michigan
So I am new to prs and I am not pleased with my normal bolt lube (breakfree clp or fireclean). I might be crazy but I feel that my custom actions seem to stick when a cycle under stress, when I am running the gently they feel as smooth as glass. I think that’s the problem, both of the surfaces are so true and smooth that they exhibit van der waals forces. My factory rifle do not exhibit this because they are not as true nor smooth.

I have noticed this with different brands of custom actions that I own as well as others.

is there a lube that will reduce this phenomenon or do I just need to cycle my bolt with no downward force?
 
It works wonders on roughly machined actions like savage and rugers.

On my nucleus it makes it insanely smooth.
 
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For you guys using the one-shot, do you also run a little grease on the lugs or no?
 
Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid. Shooter's Choice red grease on the back side of the bolt lugs and on the extraction camming area. I think it is just red super tacky synthetic bearing grease in a syringe.
 
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I would say practice running your bolt quickly and under stress. If it is smooth when slow, then the problem is not the lube. The problem is you’re bad at running the bolt under stress. So during dryfire, dedicate some time to practicing bolt manipulation. Proper repetition is the only thing that will smooth YOU out.
 
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I’ve heard of guys using ATF before anybody here use it?
 
I've been using this stuff called "Hobo Oil" for the last year or so. Not sure about what's in it, but it is definitely slick. You put on a really light coat and it works for quite a while. I haven't used it for any two day events without cleaning or anything, but I've taken it out for full day prairie dog activities in the New Mexico lunar dust environments and I didn't feel like it needed cleaning afterwards.
I still use the Hornady One shot for a lot of other stuff. I feel like it might even be alright for lock mechanisms since it dries fairly quickly. At least that's what I told myself the last time I had a door lock off and it was in need of lube. So far not issues and it's been a couple of months.
 
I use a thin coating of Slip2000 EWL 30 on the bolt/raceways with my finger and then follow up with a tiny dab of Slip2000 EWG grease on the back of the bolt lugs. I've never really tried anything else. But using this combo for years and I have no problems.

One thing I just found out is not to use CLP on anything nitrided as it affects the finish. Anybody confirm?
 
I recently got turned onto the CherryBalmz. I’ve used EWG in the past.
 
Last edited:
Royal purple synthetic motor oil and brake grease on lugs and cocking cams, but I keep a can of one shot in my match pack.
 
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mtruong said:
Lucas Oil Extreme Duty oil for me (the blue stuff). Run it in all my guns (bolt action, JP AR, Atlas 2011) and extremely happy with its performance.
Click to expand...
Austinjunks said:
I use the Lucas gun lube, blue stuff. I dig it, probably going to try the dry stuff out tho.
Click to expand...

x3. Got some of this stuff on a good deal and it seems to work very well. Use the contact cleaner and CLP the odd time too with great success.
 
So grease is > than oil for even the bolt body it seems?

www.cherrybalmz.com

CherryBalmz Basics

Our weapons lubricants are designed to withstand the harshest torture you can expose them to in your firearms.
www.cherrybalmz.com www.cherrybalmz.com
 
Tono said:
Hornady One Shot is good at cleaning. But if there's a lot of carbon fouling, it's much quicker to use a product like Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover or Eliminator. Clean the chamber, then the bore. Follow up with the One Shot and then a couple of clean patches...
Click to expand...

thank you for that
 
Prebanpaul said:
use a “non-chloric, silicon-based kitchen lubricant” You know that shit that Clark Griswald used on his sled. Problem solved.
Click to expand...
The Crunch Enhancer! You know, it's a non-nutritive cereal varnish. It's semi-permiable. It's not osmotic. What it does is it coats and seals the flake, prevents the milk from penetrating it.
 
ofl0926 said:
What about the chamber cleaning? Suggestions? Same one shot stuff? Spray and good to go?
Click to expand...

I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
 
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Dthomas3523 said:
I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
Click to expand...

that’s currently what I do with boretech products. Except I put it in a vice and run 3-5 soaked patches. How about lugs Cleaning?
 
ofl0926 said:
that’s currently what I do with boretech products. Except I put it in a vice and run 3-5 soaked patches. How about lugs Cleaning?
Click to expand...

I just wipe them down. Pretty easy to keep those clean.
 
ofl0926 said:
Even the ones in the recess area? I know they sell brushes for them but I have heard they suck
Click to expand...

You asked about the lugs. Yes for the recess area, the lug recess tool helps.

I personally take my barrels off to clean them. Makes everything much easier.
 
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Dthomas3523 said:
I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
Click to expand...
Do you pull the barrel off when you do that?
 
Dthomas3523 said:
You asked about the lugs. Yes for the recess area, the lug recess tool helps.

I personally take my barrels off to clean them. Makes everything much easier.
Click to expand...

sorry about that.
good call about removing the barrels. def makes everything easier.
 
Been running Frog Lube on my race guns for years. Tried dozens of products and just gravitated there because they run friction-less and cleaning after 500 plus rounds constitutes disassembling, wiping with a shop rag and reapplying. Never knew about any of these results. I just joke about it being minty smelling coconut oil. LOL

I don't use Frog Lube for proper barrel cleaning though. I stick to specialty solvents for that.
 
Tono said:
Be sure to also use the Hornady One Shot any bare or blued metal for rust protection. Just spray it on and wipe off...
Click to expand...

You don’t even have to wipe it off. When I spray my bolt I just hold the handle and spray the whole thing and then set it down and let it dry. It dries dry. LOL
 
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I've used lots of different oils but lately have just used 5w30 synthetic out of a needle bottle. Seems to work on engine bearings so why not on bolt lugs?
 
there's a little article on accurate shooter.com penned by Germán A. Salazar that strongly advocates lubricating the bolt (rear surface of the locking lugs, the cocking cam and the extraction cam) with grease and specifically cautions using oil.


 
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glefos said:
Been running Frog Lube on my race guns for years. Tried dozens of products and just gravitated there because they run friction-less and cleaning after 500 plus rounds constitutes disassembling, wiping with a shop rag and reapplying. Never knew about any of these results. I just joke about it being minty smelling coconut oil. LOL

I don't use Frog Lube for proper barrel cleaning though. I stick to specialty solvents for that.
Click to expand...
Thats great until it get slightly cold and it turns solid because its just coconut oil.
Froglube is the worst shit I have ever seen someone put on their gun.
 
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Sorry to further complication however, on Brownells they advocate oil and specifically not grease for the locking lugs
www.brownells.com

Trigger Times | Brownells

Trigger Times | Brownells
www.brownells.com www.brownells.com

Interestingly, they do sell both bolt grease as well as fluid bolt lubricants
 
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