Suppressors Best method for suppressor mount for minimal POI shift.

[Sticks]

I finally got my Omega 30 (20 months).

I move it around from rifle to rifle when I go shooting, direct thread. I get a POI shift each time of +/- 1 MOA in both elevation and windage from the last time it was mounted.

Would I be better off using the QD mounts for less POI shift?

Timing marks for each barrel?

Did I choose poorly and the Omegas are prone to this behavior and should be put on and left on?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[_Windrider_]

Direct thread is best. What barrel profiles are you seeing the shifts with? Also, check and make sure you aren’t getting baffle strikes. It could be that your barrel isn’t threaded perfect

 

[Mike_Honcho]

20 months?

 

[spife7980]

I use the asr system and while it shifts from clean muzzle to a mounted can it’s always shifts in the same consistent manner. And since I never shoot without it I don’t worry about that shift.

Whenever I take it off and back on it doesn’t shift with each new mounting, it stays zeroed.

 

[EchoDeltaSierra]

I’m using a specwar and an omega on ARS attachments across 4 rifles and haven’t noticed anything close to what you mention. There is a predictable shift on each rifle with each can suppressor on/off. When fired there is also a predictable first round offset. Most variation I’ve is about .1-.2 mil. That said, all the muzzle devices are timed with shim washers and set with red loctite.

I know some will argue with this practice and I’m sure we can debate “better” ways. This setup generally makes predictable first round hits at 600-1000y ranges (when I’m doing my part and remember to factor in recorded offsets).

 

[Sticks]

Direct thread is best. What barrel profiles are you seeing the shifts with? Also, check and make sure you aren’t getting baffle strikes. It could be that your barrel isn’t threaded perfect

30 cal suppressor on a 6.5 bore. Would have to be piss poor threading to be that bad on 4 barrels that I have had it on. I already looked anyhow, no baffle strikes, and all holes accounted for in targets are not skewed and they still group .5 (my skill level) Just each time I take the suppressor off and back on the same barrel, the POI is off around an inch (3 round groups to confirm it's not me).

Barrel profile on the MPA PRC is a M24 (on the paperwork - it's a baseball bat), the Howa Mini 1500 is a #6? (their heavy) and the AR15s are both heavy. One Bartlien by Precision Firearms, the other is a Lilja 719.

I only have one 5/8' thread ASR mount. At the time of purchase, that is all I owned and the rest were 1/2" thread, so I have 3 of those that will never get used. Right now I am trying with the direct thread method but the constant POI change from each on/off/on is driving me crazy.

20 months?

I will never spend another penny with Sportsmans Warehouse. Misfiled the first set of paperwork, got sent in 3 months after purchase (according to them) after I called them to get a tracking as my check was not cashed.

Cancelled that check 6 months later and re-submitted, which did not get sent in for two weeks (when I called again asking for the tracking number I was promised).

Finally approved, I go to pick it up and they send me away as they are "Too busy and short staffed to handle the paperwork". I come back 4 hours later and my tax stamp look like it had been jammed into someones back pocket for a day (wrinkled all over). My money is on they could not find my stamp, and someone had it in their pocket that was on the afternoon shift.

 

[You-Two]

I didn’t know Sportsman’s Warehouse sold suppressors...interesting. At least none that I’ve been in (ID, WY, UT). Given how long it takes on average to just buy a gun there, I can’t even imagine dealing with them for a NFA item.

My Omega has a consistent .5 mil shift down on the couple heavy barrel rifles I use it on. That’s with ASR mounts.

 

[021411]

I'm using the Area 419 Hellfire setup on my Harvester and Ultra 7. Barrel is a 24" Marksman contour. There's about an ounce difference between the two cans. Both do about 0.4 mils down and 0.3 mils right. Repeatable. I need to get my Omega set up as well with the Hellfire mount.

 

[c ward]

As long as the shift is repeatable it's a non issue unless its something crazy like 5-10 moa shift . 1 MOA isn't anything to worry about .

There will always be a shift of some amount because your adding weight / length to the barrel and changing the harmonics of the barrel .

 

[Sticks]

My shift each time I put the can on is 2-3 clicks (MRAD) different each time, and in both elev, and wind. Not sure if I am being understood...It is not consistant.

Mount the can, zero at 100, then do a few 5 round strings. Take the can off, fire it on another rifle, put the can back on rifle 1 and the POI is 2-3 clicks off from where the scope was just zeroed.

Re-zero, rinse and repeat, and I am off 2-3 clicks again. Sometimes the group is high left, then low right, then left,....If I were to fire a group using 3 shots each time I mounted the can, I would have an ugly 2MOA group out of a rifle that I can get to print a consistent .5 or less - which is my skill level.

 

[c ward]

This is one of Silencerco's cans where the mounting parts on the can are swappable ?

Check all the mounting parts for being loose , also check the shoulder on the barrels for being square to the bore . It doesn't take much out of square to cause problems .

 

[Sticks]

Thank you C Ward. I will do the best that I can checking square with a combo square. I lack the proper tooling to use a dial indicator.

I know the end caps are hand tight, I will put the wrench to the ends and put some mild torque on them then test again.

 

[SDet]

Take a picture of the threads. Looking across them. If you don't have a proper relief, you might not be shouldering proper

 

[CoryT]

Do you have the same issue with the other rifle you are using?

 

[Strykervet]

Elite will fit the can to the barrel TDC. They'll send you a threaded collar you can mark TDC on, but I said fuck it and sent them the whole damn barrel --I wanted it perfect-- and that's exactly what they did. In addition to installing a brake TDC so I don't need shims to swap between brake and can, they also cut the threads on the can so that it's TDC on the barrel also. It's only a vertical POI shift, the point of doing this is to eliminate any horizontal shift. I think it depends on the baffle type though and that and the hassle is probably why most mfg.'s don't mess with it.

It's worth asking about though. FWIW, the new KAC QDC also indexes on it's mount. Same story. In fact, that one doesn't shift much at all in any direction.

 

[Sticks]

I forgot to get a picture of the threads. They do run all the way to the shoulder, maybe 1/32 of shoulder before the barrel cut.

I had a jam nut at home and the Omega has what looks like flow through notches (not sure what to call it) so I timed that to straight down in relation to the barrel and tightened the jam nut against that. Now I am down to maybe 1 click either up or down on a remove and re-install (3x). That took the L-R variation out of it. The other rifle needs to have the threads chased (bad cut by a local Smith).

 

[c ward]

Yes there should be a relief cut at the base of the threads at the shoulder junction . Having inconsistent threading out of end user gunsmiths is one of the reasons TBAC has gone to muzzle devices for attachment .

There are drawings of proper 3A threads on TBAC's website for sure , not certain but probably also on Silencerco Too .

It may be worthwhile to look at the Area 419 stuff and convert to muzzle device attachment instead of direct thread .

Fritz up at MH is the only one that does my barrel work , the red headed hellspawn never disappoints.

 

[Sticks]

MH being Mile High Shooting - Erie? Where I should have bought my can to start with?

 

[c ward]

Yes and maybe just not sportsman's

 

[Sticks]

Yeah, well, the first lessons are usually the most painful.