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best place to measure web expansion

Bayou

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Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2010
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Baton Rouge, LA
I want to use a regular micrometer for measuring web expansion to help identify safe max load. I don't have a blade micrometer that would allow me to measure in the extractor groove which I think would be the best place for this. I could use my calipers but my mic is higher quality with 0.00005" resolution compared to just 0.001" for the calipers. So this leaves me two choices, just above the extractor groove or just below it on the rim of the case.

I was thinking that the rim would provide a more reproducible location for the measurement as its so easy to identify and we do need to do before and after firing measurements to look for an increase so measuring in the exact same spot is important. On the other hand the surface just above the groove is closer to where the pressure is and might show more expansion but it might also be slightly more difficult to measure exactly at the same spot before and after firing.

Any thoughts on which of these two locations would be best for this. Thanks!
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

the "web" starts at the end of the primer pocket, ends at the inside of the case, or vice versa. So I would say measure right in front of the extractor groove, or your anvils just hanging over the extractor groove.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

I agree,that's how I measure my load's.
I fire 5-6 factory load's to get a baseline measurement.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

I've seen attachments for neck thickness measurements but not for web diameters. So I'm not sure if I understand exactly what you are talking about. Can you post a pic or a link to one of these devices? Thanks!
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

the ball attachments are for measuring material thickness, generally used when placed on the fixed anvil, and positioned inside of a curved surface.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

Generally there is a just barely visible ring around te bottom of the case where the web thins and the chamber is most sloppy. This is the spot to measure.

You COULD measure several spots along the length of the body on one case before and after firing.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

I don't know what you mean by "safe".

If the gun is weaker than the brass, stick with published loads, because guns cost money.

If the gun is stronger than the brass, stay below the threshold of long brass life, because brass costs money. I measure around the extractor groove with dial calipers before and after firing. I spin the brass with one hand and keep the caliper jaws tight with the other, while watching the needle. A .001" increase in diameter anywhere around the extractor groove is and indicator that a loose primer pocket is only a few shots away for this piece of brass with this load. I would then typically reduce the powder charge by 4% and call that my max load. If I were writing a load book, and this were a cartridge with a SAAMI registered max average pressure based on the brass strength, I would reduce the charge 6% from case head yield threshold.

If you don't know the relationship between your gun's strength and the brass' strength, then stick with published loads until you know.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know what you mean by "safe".

If the gun is weaker than the brass, stick with published loads, because guns cost money.

If the gun is stronger than the brass, stay below the threshold of long brass life, because brass costs money.</div></div> gonna need some clarification on this myself

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you don't know the relationship between your gun's strength and the brass' strength, then stick with published loads until you know. </div></div>

I think the OP is just looking for information on identifying signs of pressure, like where to measure.

Care to explain the rest for us?

I think I know what your trying to say, but the way you presented it sounds asinine.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

I only used published load data for a start charge. I couldn't care less what book max is. Max for me is what my gun tells me it is. A few years ago a guy posted on another reloading forum I frequent that the first signs of over pressure will be web expansion of the case. That this happens before all the other more commonly discussed indicators such as cratered primers, difficult bolt lift, pressure deformation on the case head where the head stamp is, etc. So far I've only used this technique once during load development on a factory Remy 700P. I used 2X (or more) fired brass to avoid measuring dimensional changes as the case forms to the chamber. I measure the web diameter before and after firing as a function of charge weight and looked for a statistically significant increase. I found below 45.5 gr of varget (168 gr NCC HPBT) the numbers bounced around a bit with very small changes. But above 45.5 the expansion started to take off and each charge up to 47 gr in 0.5 gr increments had more expansion than the lighter charge before. At 47 gr I had difficult bolt lift as the only other over pressure indicator so I did not fire any of the higher loadings. So in this case I would define 45.5 as the max safe charge. Maybe a bit conservative as it's 1.5 gr below the sticky bolt lift charge but I can only shoot to 600 yards so I don't need as high a velocity as 1000 yd shooter does. And running at slightly lower pressures delays loose primer pockets which is a good thing.

Now when I plotted out my data of web expansion versus charge I didn't get a nice smooth curve due to what I assumed was the random error in the measurement. BTW, I measured the expansion just above the extractor groove as the first two posters replied in this thread. But as I said above you could definitely see a break in the curve where things started to take off. So I was wondering if I could improve my technique to minimize the measurement error and maybe get more reliable results. In the thread where this method was suggested to me we never talked about how to best make the measurement, so we then discussed that. In that discussion a few comments were made, the first two were agreed upon by most but then there was some disagreement on the third item.

1) The best technique would be to use a micrometer with thin blades similar to calipers that could fit into the extractor groove and make the measurement there.

2) Common calipers with 0.001" resolution are no good as .001" is already too much expansion and by the time you get there you're in loose primer pocket country.

3) Where to measure with micrometer that was good to 0.0001" or better: some said above extractor groove some said on case rim.

So basically that's why I brought the subject up here, just to see what the feeling are on this subject as there are many experienced and knowledgeable reloaders on this forum.

The issue has become important to me again as I rebarreled that 700P action and I'm about to start load development using TresMon suggested methods from the sticky's in this forum. This will be the first time I've shoot rounds with the pills jammed into the lands so I want to be very careful about reading the signs of overpressure and since I believe this technique works I want to use it again.

Thanks again to everyone who replied, I appreciate all your comments.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bayou</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. A few years ago a guy posted on another reloading forum I frequent that the first signs of over pressure will be web expansion of the case. ..

2) Common calipers with 0.001" resolution are no good as .001" is already too much expansion and by the time you get there you're in loose primer pocket country.
..</div></div>
If you cross section the brass and look for where the weak point is, it is the extractor groove on the outside and the primer pocket on the inside.
I did not read this, but found on my own that measuring in the extractor groove with .001" resolution of change, not absolute accuracy, that any dial calipers provide, is plenty good enough be way ahead of loose primer pockets.
That may work for most cartridges, but 6mmBR has a small primer pocket. That makes the brass thicker between the extractor and the primer pocket.
You can't get loose primer pockets with 6mmBR.
The primer will pierce first in a work up, even with a bushed firing pin and CCI 450 primers.
What does it all mean?
Take the measurements closer to the damage, and you won't need such a sensitive instrument.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

I have been arguing with Denton Bramwell for 10 years.
We are old electrical engineers.
But not as much as a third old EE that likes his PRE and CHE argues with Denton. They have thousands of man hours into arguing on the AR forums ["Denton" vs "HotCore"]. The above link was part of that fight.

Bramwell advocates putting strain gauges on rifle barrels to measure chamber pressure with a wheatstone bridge configuration hooked to an old instrumentation amplifier hooked up to a form of battery powered storage scope that is a laptop. He sells software.
I have a couple objections:
1) The error of gauge misregistration cannot be quantified.
2) The math of gauge location, inner and outer taper on an open ended tube cannot be solved for the stress strain ratio. This problem results in buying calibration ammo, which is not calibrated for your rifle.
3) If the pressure could be known, is not most accurate path to finding the threshold of long brass life.

It does appeal to those in fear of exceeding SAAMI registered max average pressures and those that prefer procedures over careful goal definition.

What does it all mean?
Measuring pressure makes sense for those selling ammo.
But it makes less sense to advanced handloaders with strong rifles, but you pay your money and take your choice.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...I did not read this, but found on my own that measuring in the extractor groove with .001" resolution of change, not absolute accuracy, that any dial calipers provide, is plenty good enough be way ahead of loose primer pockets....
</div></div>

I already have a set of "before firing" measurements above the extractor groove with my mic. I'll add to that some caliper measurements in the groove as it's easy enough to do that as well and we'll see what happens after firing. I also learned that I could add a blade attachment to the anvil and a ball attachment to the spindle of my mic and make more precise measurements in the extractor groove area. But then again maybe the smartest thing to do is just stop when I get sticky bolt lift or cratered primers and back off a grain or two and call that the max charge.
 
Re: best place to measure web expansion

When I was working up a load for my 30-06 with H414 I carefully measured CHE to within 0.0001. I increased powder until I got a readings. I found that if I let a round sit in the gun that was hot that the reading was higher. ie; #5 of a string. This I felt would be the worst case scenario. H414 is a temperature sensitive powder and on a hot day in a hot gun pressure can soar. A load that would be 0.0002 cool would give 0.0010 when hot. After several loading's cases failed (loose primer pockets). My personal take on it is this, if a hot round in a hot gun produced 0.0002 to 0.0005 thou expansion it was a hot load. I backed down at that point, I then checked a load with one less grain of powder, it gave no expansion (hot and hot test). This was my max load, a do not exceed. I have to agree with Speer on this, if there is any expansion on the case head it means that the yield strength of a new case has been exceeded. Back 30 - 40 years ago some factory ammo was loaded hot, brass was not reloadable, primer pockets loose on the first firing.

Remember, a fired case that does not show any CHE may still be unsafe to fire, it may exceed the design pressure of the rifle. 0.0002 thou CPE in a 30-30 would be super hot for an old '94, perhaps OK in a Ruger #1.

Of course all of this measurement is on a new case, not one that has been previously fired. Brass work hardens, becomes stronger with each firing, and a little more brittle also.

I now measure PRE for load intensity comparison and I read the pressure ring position. This is especially easy to read on magnums. For belted mags I just look at the shinny ring between the headspace or belt edge and the first contact that the case has with the chamber, anything less than 0.025 is what I consider hot, anything more that 0.050 is normal. What I like about PRE is that I can measure it on a reloaded full length sized case as well as on a new one. However, it will not tell you if you have exceeded the cases yield point. The rifle chamber contains the pressure of the sides of the case, the brass head contains the pressure at the rear, the part that points at your face. The head of a brass case will literally disappear if overloaded enough. Brass will yield completely and flow as if molten, blowing the crap out the rifle it is in.

The problem with all these measurements is that the hot indication is not hot enough for most people, the desire is there to make ammo that exceeds all factory ammo and the book data loads as well. Factory ammo can be loaded hot, they expect the cases to be thrown away after firing.

Today, it very rare for any of my loads to meet or exceed any published data maximum. If I need more velocity, I need a different caliber. If the combo is not accurate, I need a different combo. May not be what I want to hear but it is the truth.

If you are reloading a common caliber all this measurement stuff is somewhat moot, lots of published ammo, lots of factory loads. This is handy for variants (like a custom short throated 300 Weatherby), special bullets, wildcats, or if you just bought 100 lbs. of non canister powder cheap. I once bought a bunch of powder called #44, it was cheap, had a wicked muzzle flash but it was cheap and it was fairly accurate. Did I mention that it was cheap. All it came with was a piece of paper that said any listed load for 4895 should be safe.

The powder companies aren't stupid either, they slowly change the powder, making it safer. for example if 50 gr was a max load in 1990, a new lot today may need 50.2 gr to be max. They sure as hell won't put out a batch that only needed 49.8 for max. If I have an old lot of powder I'll consult old data before loading to what is in a new book.

It's nice to know the origin and some history of the CPE/PRE argument.