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Best Rifle Case For A Precision Rifle

Lay out the rifle and place some bright green 2” auto body tape under the edges until you have enough coverage to trace the rifles edges. If there are straight lines then use a yard stick. You’ll get better cuts. Next get a retractable razor. But multiple widths. Make shallow cuts but make sure you are perfectly 90 degrees otherwise you’ll get waves.
 

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And don't forget to cut out a place for your desiccant!
 

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I cut my own Kaizen for my rifle cases, but I leave foam for multiple pistols to the laser-cut pros.
Jim at Worldcasecompany on eBay does some great work.
 

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An option not yet mentioned is the Plano Field Locker. I have one of them and I also have a Pelican. Both are great. I believe both companies make them in USA .

 
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Lay out the rifle and place some bright green 2” auto body tape under the edges until you have enough coverage to trace the rifles edges. If there are straight lines then use a yard stick. You’ll get better cuts. Next get a retractable razor. But multiple widths. Make shallow cuts but make sure you are perfectly 90 degrees otherwise you’ll get waves.
Good work, Did you use a straight edge to do the barrel and your straight lines to keep it clean? Post some photos!
 
I did not know much about the SKB cases but today I looked at them at Scheels. I would totally trust one. They are robust as hell. I think they mastered their craft with years of experience protecting the guitars and equipment of professional musicians. A guitar is a hell of a lot more sensitive then a rifle.
 
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Nice looking; but for the life of me, I can not figure out why so many people put the scope mounted rifle; scope down in the case. These cases get bounced on every side, but especially on the sides opposite the handles. The handles are generally considered to top, and the side opposite is most often where the get tossed hard in the ground. That few square inches of foam must then try to support the entire rifle weight before the turret hits the case..........

Baron23
The cheap turkey carving knife indeed works best on Polyurethane foam. That said if you can practice first, do it. Often you'll cut the outline, thinking it is the bottom, only to discover it is way easier to get the shape you want on the outline side. Any tilt of the knife, the opposite side will really magnify your errors. Mark it tight, cut outside the line from the side you want facing up, usually produces the nices look when using the electric knife.

Jt
Lets say that for ease of use the rifle is placed in what we will call upside down. If the area around the scope is clear and non load bearing then it really won't make a difference, since the rifle is supported 100% and not by the scope.
 
I did not know much about the SKB cases but today I looked at them at Scheels. I would totally trust one. They are robust as hell. I think they mastered their craft with years of experience protecting the guitars and equipment of professional musicians. A guitar is a hell of a lot more sensitive then a rifle.
Ive had an SKB case for years (first case I bought for a rifle, back in 1999 or so), and I still have and use it today. Its robust and offers good protection, however a Pelican is definitely a step above IMO.
 
meaning what exactly?

Cases are good for transportation; not for storing. Both polyurethane and Polyethylene foam, tend to be hygroscopic; not in the common sense, but that they trap moisture that is released during events that cause condensation.

basically- it’s the worst way to store firearms.
 
I got the Starlite before Pelican was a thing. I have around $450 invested due to purchasing the sealed bead foam inserts. Those are HD and will allow for sculpting. The latches are tight and require some buffing to smooth otherwise your knuckles will be F' up. The plastic is thicker than Pelican and is closer to the quality of Hardigg. Wheel kit is extra coin.

Peak Cases are pretty nice. Glow in the dark latches. Comes with a desiccant container. They offer drop fit for folders. My buddy has one for his Tikka. Felt covered foam. Non-modifiable. Heavy duty like Starlite. Zero flex.

Pelican is the one and done case for 90% of the shooters. You can buy see them and touch them at a retailer vs seeing only online. The foam is pluckable. They are less than $300. If I did not own the Starlite I would own a Pelican because of the price. I personally believe the Starlite is higher quality. I would chose Pelican over SKB unless you are toting a guitar.
I'm glad someone else has heard of these guys. I picked up a cert on a prize table back in my USPSA days and grabbed a double pistol sized case. That thing is a tank. Super impressed with the construction.
 
Cases are good for transportation; not for storing. Both polyurethane and Polyethylene foam, tend to be hygroscopic; not in the common sense, but that they trap moisture that is released during events that cause condensation.
basically- it’s the worst way to store firearms.

I agree
 
Try tracing it on some cardboard under the rifle, then double check the cut out before the foam. Electric carving knives work great for cutting either types of foam.
 
^ yes on the electric knife.... Cuts way smoother than razor blades. See the image below.
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Honestly, I do not take much time marking and cutting the foam anymore. I simply rough mark it and quickly cut. The foam wears out and you want to put in changes over time, so I just don’t sweat it. I want it to be easy to get in and out, not a pain in the ass for me when my fingers are freezing, or when it is snowing, raining and/or it’s dark out. You can see, I don’t mark the back or worry about winning a beauty contest.

Also, best is super relative. For going to matches or the range, especially where I really don’t have a lot of gear, I really hate dealing with hard cases. Hard cases would never be my daily driver.

That said, for hunting especially with others or extended trips it’s valuable. I usually use 2 rifle case, cases. I have gravitated away from the “Storm” or 1700 series Pelican cases and using the newer Pelican “Vault” as it is enough protection yet doesn’t take two people to lift.

Here is my Elk setup, I keep it simple but you still get 13k+ in one box. The vault also has push button centers like the storm.
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All that said, the storm is beefier. I have lots of different cases, but right now I think the lighter cheaper Pelican Vault is my favorite for general long trips in a over loaded truck, flying. It works too, but so does the storm. With my match gun (not shown) and a large storm, I have been over the weight limits and it gets expensive.

just my opinion obviously- hopefully the OP doesn’t spend as much time and $$ finding out that there is no perfect case for everything.

Some random images of my older cases I had on my phone. I have a few more, but as I said, I don’t like hard cases; I see them as a tool for specific conditions.
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One thing people forget is weight, weigh your case and load, and if over 50 lbs (70 lbs on some airlines with status) you will pay more for overweight. Also most airlines charge more if it is over 62" long. It adds up quickly. I usually check one rifle case (49lbs) and add other things into a second case including ammo,also 49lbs. Throw a handgun in with the ammo, as some airlines will not allow ammo without a gun. I carry on a bag with clothes, and place toiletries in the second case. 2 checked bags with 100 lbs is $80, while a single 70 lb bag is $135. So the weight of the case is important. That said, I have both Storm and pelican cases for different rifles. I also have a couple of RTIC cases, while not as strong as a pelican, I have used them without issue.
Screenshot 2020-09-14 232002.png
 
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+1 for Pelican. I've been buying mine from this site:


I like the fact that I can get any Pelican case with the kaizen foam already installed. I then mark and cut for whatever I want in that case.

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I actually ordered extra foam from them so that I can change my layout depending on what I'm doing. For example, I have another foam set that carries my AR15 for pig hunting and my hunting over/under. That's my bird during the day, pig at night hunting combo. Once I knew I could easily customize my cases, I started buying other models based on my needs.

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You get the idea.
 
SKB cases (From Patriot Cases if you want foam) and Armageddon Gear for soft cases. I have the M2010 soft case from AG and I can drop it right into my SKB shell from Patriot if needed, or run the foam without the AG case.
 
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If you wish to save some money try out the rifle case available at Harbor Freight. I might have considered it if they had been selling them before I bought my Pelican.
 
I’m looking for advice. What are the best cases to travel with a precision rifle. I’m anticipating some air travel so TSA compliant is requirement. Cost is not much of an impediment.

Apart from case recs, I’m curious whether you experienced competitors travel with scope/mount off the rifle or just check zero on arrival.

Thanks in advance for helping a newbie out!
Obviously Pelican is the number 1 choice. Have not bought one but I love Savior gun bags(soft). Bought the 51" for my precision 308. Use it for the range where hard cases can be unwieldy. Pelicans are everywhere.

Savior does not have hard cases. My bad
 
Only one other comment on Plano?
I know its not a super expensive case but I'm very happy with mine, and the pluck foam was easy to deal with.
Made in USA and has stood up to a LOT of abuse very well.
 
I have 2 Case Club - for my rifles - they are great cases and you can order them inserts for particular rifles and I bought a few of the Apache cases at Harbor Freight for my handguns and my go pro , for the money they are pretty nice the only thing that sucks about them is they have that pull a part foam in them..
 
I agree with the fellow above who said that hard cases are a PIA as a daily driver. I use Savior soft bags and are happy with them.

But to travel to a hunt on an airline, I do want bullet proof and that's why I went with Pelican.

I'm sure that there are other equally good or perhaps even better cases out there, but Pelican does seem vault like to me.

Cheers
 
Bought me a plano two weeks ago, it's cheaper than a pelican, but still good enough. Never liked the precut foam, so I drew me a new inlay and had that machined out of sturdier foam...
 

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And, the plano does not look like a guncase, it could also hold, say, a long tool, like a specialized spirit level (is what I tell my neighbors). Point is, it doesn't have a weapony feel to it.....
Pretty important if no one needs to know you are carrying a rifle, for instance in the Netherlands, where I am from....
 
I sold gun cases at a large gun place for a good while. I found that most people were buying a lighter case like a Plano or a soft case for their everyday rifles. The Pelican’s, that cost more and are heavier, like the 1750, were purchased for traveling and by owners of expensive custom built rifles. The Pelican’s were also purchased a lot by owners of expensive shotguns. I can tell you that on my custom builds I use the 1750. It is indeed heavier, but along with that weight I get strength. I know whatever can be dished out upon that case, it will take it and protect my gun and scope. I just can’t see going cheap, or light to carry a build that cost 6K or more. I’ll put up with the weight. One thing though, should you want replacement or different foam for your Pelican case, the shipping is very expensive from Pelican. The cost of the foam is next nothing, but they kill you on shipping. Just FYI, in case.
 
Pelican, Pelican, Pelican, Pelican.
I WIN
1750 double scoped rifle case or
1770 Transporter Case.

Get real locks like Master Lock or other good brand
Pelican 1770 is used by Barrett for MRAD MK22 Advanced Sniper Rifle adopted by USSOCOM in 2019. Great case....HEAVY with MK22 Deployment Kit.....needs at least a turbo V6 to move it. ..... :) :) :) Pelican 1750 is great also. Pelican will not disappoint or fail to protect your firearm.
 
Storm first then pelican . And yes I know that they are the same company. But the storm has better latches and they have 6i instead of only 4 .They use to make a im3300 storm case in grey I had one once looking for another one now .
 
Has any been hit with an oversized fee when flying with their case? Most require less than 62" combined L+W+H. I was told recently when checking in that was exterior dimensions of the main body so not including latches, handles, etc. I know they weigh everything for sure but have never had one measured. What has been the experience here?
 
Pluck foam does suck.

I bought my KRG in 2013 and used to have my Remington 700 with a 20", 1.25"- 1" tapered bull barrel. I could case it suppressed, which was awesome because my can is direct thread. The harris which I have abandoned had a cutout, 10 round mags, sunshade, Dewey rod and guide. I nabbed this Seekins Havak and switched the two chassis' so it doesn't fit as snug to this barrel. I toss this in the back of the UTV and don't thing twice. Drag back when I hoof it.

If you cut your foam do not make the same mistake I did - carry the case scope up not down.
Mistake is not in the cutting but if you've glued it in the case, otherwise take the foam out turn it around and put it back in the case.
 
Shop the Pelican in all the weird places and you can find deals.
This. Got a 1750 on marketplace for $60 with only half the foam. I had a lot of foam from other pelican cases I used.

Theres people on marketplace near me who routinely sell military "lots" of pelican and SKB as well.
 
Pelican, Pelican, Pelican, Pelican.
I WIN
1750 double scoped rifle case or
1770 Transporter Case.

Get real locks like Master Lock or other good brand

Master locks are garbage. 99% of their models can be picked with a simple comb in 2 seconds. If you don't have a comb, just insert a piece of wire and twist and you can activate the bar through the keyway. If you don't have that, make some shims with a beer can and scissors and slide them down the clasp. Their ball bearing retainer is extremely easy to shim.

Abus makes some reasonably priced locks that are at least shielded, with angled latch and comb proof. You want the ones where you have to use a key to close it, as they are next to impossible to shim.
 
Master locks are garbage. 99% of their models can be picked with a simple comb in 2 seconds. If you don't have a comb, just insert a piece of wire and twist and you can activate the bar through the keyway. If you don't have that, make some shims with a beer can and scissors and slide them down the clasp. Their ball bearing retainer is extremely easy to shim.

Abus makes some reasonably priced locks that are at least shielded, with angled latch and comb proof. You want the ones where you have to use a key to close it, as they are next to impossible to shim.
A fellow Lock Picking Lawyer follower I see 😘
 
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