Suppressors Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
- Thread starter Monkeyman
- Start date
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html
https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dead-bird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html </div></div>
Good advice-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dead-bird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html </div></div>
Good advice-
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dead-bird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html </div></div>
Good advice-</div></div>
+2 GREAT PRODUCT!!!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dead-bird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">https://www.riflesonly.com/pro-shop/tactical-gear/tab-sas-suppressor-anti-mirage-shield.html </div></div>
Good advice-</div></div>
+2 GREAT PRODUCT!!!!
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Snipers Hide Google Search
This probably should have been the first answer to this question.
Snipers Hide Google Search
This probably should have been the first answer to this question.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Snipers Hide Google Search
This probably should have been the first answer to this question. </div></div>
That or just help someone who is asking a simple question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Snipers Hide Google Search
This probably should have been the first answer to this question. </div></div>
That or just help someone who is asking a simple question.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Nothing against the OP, but if he asked that question, he obviously doesnt know about that search feature, which will save him loads of headaches in the future. The search function on this site sucks, the one I linked however, works very well.
Nothing against the OP, but if he asked that question, he obviously doesnt know about that search feature, which will save him loads of headaches in the future. The search function on this site sucks, the one I linked however, works very well.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Fair enough jonaddis, I understand your logic now.
Fair enough jonaddis, I understand your logic now.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Sure, why not. Just remember that suppressors are essentially heat exchangers, needing to cool to be efficient. Also, some exterior coatings are better than others, poor ones will turn fast with a cover.
For the bolt action precision shooter, a wrap can delay the onset of mirage, but it will eventually form. For the small number of consecutive shots, a wrap works very well. But when the heat sets into the can, get the cover off and let the can cool off. Some can makers work very hard to get the cans to dump heat quickly, for those designs, the exterior is one big heat sink and wraps are not recommended.
Sure, why not. Just remember that suppressors are essentially heat exchangers, needing to cool to be efficient. Also, some exterior coatings are better than others, poor ones will turn fast with a cover.
For the bolt action precision shooter, a wrap can delay the onset of mirage, but it will eventually form. For the small number of consecutive shots, a wrap works very well. But when the heat sets into the can, get the cover off and let the can cool off. Some can makers work very hard to get the cans to dump heat quickly, for those designs, the exterior is one big heat sink and wraps are not recommended.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
I've known a number of people who have used the header wrap satisfactorily. The TAB Gear covers work well and look good (which for some, is half the battle).
I started using the suppressor covers from US Tactical Supply and while they are ugly as sin - I think they work better than the TAB Gear covers. I can shoot with them longer without mirage and have used them on precision gas guns to the point my TAB Gear wraps have melted without issue.
I've known a number of people who have used the header wrap satisfactorily. The TAB Gear covers work well and look good (which for some, is half the battle).
I started using the suppressor covers from US Tactical Supply and while they are ugly as sin - I think they work better than the TAB Gear covers. I can shoot with them longer without mirage and have used them on precision gas guns to the point my TAB Gear wraps have melted without issue.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Those are the Bowers units and I use them as well on subguns. They are very size specific, read the specs closely. Reminds me of the old Nomex units. THey are not as easy to get off when you need/should as the TABS.
http://subguns.org/products/covers/
Those are the Bowers units and I use them as well on subguns. They are very size specific, read the specs closely. Reminds me of the old Nomex units. THey are not as easy to get off when you need/should as the TABS.
http://subguns.org/products/covers/
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Those are the Bowers units and I use them as well on subguns. They are very size specific, read the specs closely. Reminds me of the old Nomex units. THey are not as easy to get off when you need/should as the TABS.
http://subguns.org/products/covers/
</div></div>
Good to know. As for being size specific, you choose based on diameter of your can and trim to length, so it's nothing crazy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Those are the Bowers units and I use them as well on subguns. They are very size specific, read the specs closely. Reminds me of the old Nomex units. THey are not as easy to get off when you need/should as the TABS.
http://subguns.org/products/covers/
</div></div>
Good to know. As for being size specific, you choose based on diameter of your can and trim to length, so it's nothing crazy.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
so what kind of heat is generated into a suppressor by lets say consecutive fire of one 20rd 308 mag like through a m1a or ar10? i know that the rate of fire matters a lot on this question. just wondering how the cover will do. it says 1800f
so what kind of heat is generated into a suppressor by lets say consecutive fire of one 20rd 308 mag like through a m1a or ar10? i know that the rate of fire matters a lot on this question. just wondering how the cover will do. it says 1800f
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
I throw a nomex glove around mine to get a few more rounds before taking a break, it works and I have not torched anything yet.
I throw a nomex glove around mine to get a few more rounds before taking a break, it works and I have not torched anything yet.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: patriotunknown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so what kind of heat is generated into a suppressor by lets say consecutive fire of one 20rd 308 mag like through a m1a or ar10? i know that the rate of fire matters a lot on this question. just wondering how the cover will do. it says 1800f </div></div>
I don't know how they figure that 1800F < it appears to have a insulating element internal to the nylon and nomex outer shell. Maybe that part is capable of 1800F.
The nomex is rated to something like 428F for continuous use I believe, as high as 662F for very short spikes.
That's not very high temp. The Cordura Nylon will melt at probably 300-350F where it touches the can (if this occurs) Which appears to be the case in some of the TAB covers. Polypropylene High temp velcro is 480F rated.
308 Stainless velcro [Not used] is much more expensive and rated to ~800F.
The 20 round mag of 7.62x51mm? Maybe 300-370F will be attained.
<span style="font-weight: bold">The TAB SAS is a great product, but if you wrap it around a 1000F part, you're probably going to see the nomex burn and the cordura melt.</span>
There is a product McMaster Carr sells that is called "silica sleeve" it's a 2500F rated material in the thicker material thickness, 1800F in the more thin version. You can sew with silica thread so that the ends don't fray.
You then have an 1800F cover for really cheap- of course if your suppressor hits over 1400F inside the cover, you may damage it, and silica sleeve is an insulator so it will increase retained heat.
Another set of drawbacks are the white or light tan color of silica sleeve, <span style="text-decoration: underline">and also the fact that the MSDS recommends respirators for use when sewing/cutting it, and classifies it as an eye, and skin irritant. </span> As I read this, it appears that silica may be as dangerous as asbestos. (which as a suppressor cover is probably not very dangerous, but would be a serious danger to be manufacturing products from on a daily basis).
A good comparison is thousands of soldiers who like me used asbestos glove to change barrels on the M60. What we didn't have to do is manufacture thousands of asbestos gloves.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Basically this shows that the TAB SAS makes the most of a difficult engineering situation, by providing a relatively heat resistant product that is attractively packaged and that DOES NOT have significant MSDS considerations AFAIK. </span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: patriotunknown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so what kind of heat is generated into a suppressor by lets say consecutive fire of one 20rd 308 mag like through a m1a or ar10? i know that the rate of fire matters a lot on this question. just wondering how the cover will do. it says 1800f </div></div>
I don't know how they figure that 1800F < it appears to have a insulating element internal to the nylon and nomex outer shell. Maybe that part is capable of 1800F.
The nomex is rated to something like 428F for continuous use I believe, as high as 662F for very short spikes.
That's not very high temp. The Cordura Nylon will melt at probably 300-350F where it touches the can (if this occurs) Which appears to be the case in some of the TAB covers. Polypropylene High temp velcro is 480F rated.
308 Stainless velcro [Not used] is much more expensive and rated to ~800F.
The 20 round mag of 7.62x51mm? Maybe 300-370F will be attained.
<span style="font-weight: bold">The TAB SAS is a great product, but if you wrap it around a 1000F part, you're probably going to see the nomex burn and the cordura melt.</span>
There is a product McMaster Carr sells that is called "silica sleeve" it's a 2500F rated material in the thicker material thickness, 1800F in the more thin version. You can sew with silica thread so that the ends don't fray.
You then have an 1800F cover for really cheap- of course if your suppressor hits over 1400F inside the cover, you may damage it, and silica sleeve is an insulator so it will increase retained heat.
Another set of drawbacks are the white or light tan color of silica sleeve, <span style="text-decoration: underline">and also the fact that the MSDS recommends respirators for use when sewing/cutting it, and classifies it as an eye, and skin irritant. </span> As I read this, it appears that silica may be as dangerous as asbestos. (which as a suppressor cover is probably not very dangerous, but would be a serious danger to be manufacturing products from on a daily basis).
A good comparison is thousands of soldiers who like me used asbestos glove to change barrels on the M60. What we didn't have to do is manufacture thousands of asbestos gloves.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Basically this shows that the TAB SAS makes the most of a difficult engineering situation, by providing a relatively heat resistant product that is attractively packaged and that DOES NOT have significant MSDS considerations AFAIK. </span>
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
We have done a lot of testing on a lot of different products related to heat transfer and heat dissipation in a effort to “control” the issue. Everything we have tested the same major issue arises. The heat that is trapped by the suppressor will always have a outlet and that is the barrel. We have barrels that are marked every inch and take heat measurements of the barrel. You can watch the heat rapidly transfer to the barrel and down toward to the chamber. We have also found at a certain point depending on the string of fire that the suppressor will cool at a faster rate than the barrel naturally and most of the personal shooting find that the mirage gets worse when the heat coming off the barrel is closer to the optics than the suppressor due to the distance the suppressor is from the optic.
We have done a lot of testing on a lot of different products related to heat transfer and heat dissipation in a effort to “control” the issue. Everything we have tested the same major issue arises. The heat that is trapped by the suppressor will always have a outlet and that is the barrel. We have barrels that are marked every inch and take heat measurements of the barrel. You can watch the heat rapidly transfer to the barrel and down toward to the chamber. We have also found at a certain point depending on the string of fire that the suppressor will cool at a faster rate than the barrel naturally and most of the personal shooting find that the mirage gets worse when the heat coming off the barrel is closer to the optics than the suppressor due to the distance the suppressor is from the optic.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
I use Elite iron wraps. work great.
I use Elite iron wraps. work great.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
just a FYI to you do it your self'ers....
the liner in TAB covers is this
http://www.velvetshield.com/
this is what i use to make my own covers....
just a FYI to you do it your self'ers....
the liner in TAB covers is this
http://www.velvetshield.com/
this is what i use to make my own covers....
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Serious question...what is the main purpose of suppressor covers? Is it to eliminate mirage, personnel protection, both, something else?
The reason I ask, is I own a mechanical insulation contracting company, and have access to lots high-temp insulation materials and outer coverings. I have no desire to go into suppressor cover manufacturing, but I could certainly test some of the stuff I use in high-temp applications if I knew what the desired result is, and make a qualified recommendations if anyone so desired.
Serious question...what is the main purpose of suppressor covers? Is it to eliminate mirage, personnel protection, both, something else?
The reason I ask, is I own a mechanical insulation contracting company, and have access to lots high-temp insulation materials and outer coverings. I have no desire to go into suppressor cover manufacturing, but I could certainly test some of the stuff I use in high-temp applications if I knew what the desired result is, and make a qualified recommendations if anyone so desired.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
We're walking a fine line when we're attempting to make can covers. If you make a product that doesn't let any heat out your cover will work great, in that it won't be damaged, but not so great when the heat builds up and ruins your can, or barrel can connection.
I could easily make a can cover using some of the radiant barriers on the market and the covers would not be damaged, but your can would if you got it so hot that the heat had nowhere to go.
I'd rather build a product that if the customer gets too carried away with his rate of fire all that happens is that the cover is damaged. When this has happened what we do is replace the cover for the customer, tell him thank you for his business, and please don't get as carried away with the cover on in the future.
I'd much rather do that than to have a customer call me up mad as a hornet because his thousand dollar can he's waited 8 months to get is now basically welded to his barrel, or has suffered internal damage because our cover worked too well.
We have covers in service that have survived over 3000 rounds of 338 Lapua Magnum fire and are still going strong.
We're working on developing a higher heat rated cover that will be compatible with 5.56 fire. We're getting closer but it's still not exactly what I want yet.
Hondo1312, to answer your question, yes sir, mirage and personal protection, while not ruining the suppressor inside.
Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
We're walking a fine line when we're attempting to make can covers. If you make a product that doesn't let any heat out your cover will work great, in that it won't be damaged, but not so great when the heat builds up and ruins your can, or barrel can connection.
I could easily make a can cover using some of the radiant barriers on the market and the covers would not be damaged, but your can would if you got it so hot that the heat had nowhere to go.
I'd rather build a product that if the customer gets too carried away with his rate of fire all that happens is that the cover is damaged. When this has happened what we do is replace the cover for the customer, tell him thank you for his business, and please don't get as carried away with the cover on in the future.
I'd much rather do that than to have a customer call me up mad as a hornet because his thousand dollar can he's waited 8 months to get is now basically welded to his barrel, or has suffered internal damage because our cover worked too well.
We have covers in service that have survived over 3000 rounds of 338 Lapua Magnum fire and are still going strong.
We're working on developing a higher heat rated cover that will be compatible with 5.56 fire. We're getting closer but it's still not exactly what I want yet.
Hondo1312, to answer your question, yes sir, mirage and personal protection, while not ruining the suppressor inside.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
I know of one guy that bought TAB Covers after he leaned his rifle up against his purty Plastic siding on his house and the suppresor melted right thru it
I know of one guy that bought TAB Covers after he leaned his rifle up against his purty Plastic siding on his house and the suppresor melted right thru it
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
+1 on the Bowers product. I use them on a wide variety of cans and have been very happy with them.
+1 on the Bowers product. I use them on a wide variety of cans and have been very happy with them.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tburkes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
</div></div>
hmmm. thats odd... the package says * Maximum Allowable Service Temperature is 1800°F, and 3000°F for short duration.
but it does say
"Velvet Shield is designed to be used only for Welding, Brazing and Soldering. The material is not intended for use in high soaking temperatures (i.e. ovens or confined spaces where temperatures exceed
200°F) OR severe use conditions where excessive molten metal slag or heavy grinding operations
would cause the blanket to exceed its maximum use temperature."
but since i use it on a bolt gun, im not that worried...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tburkes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
</div></div>
hmmm. thats odd... the package says * Maximum Allowable Service Temperature is 1800°F, and 3000°F for short duration.
but it does say
"Velvet Shield is designed to be used only for Welding, Brazing and Soldering. The material is not intended for use in high soaking temperatures (i.e. ovens or confined spaces where temperatures exceed
200°F) OR severe use conditions where excessive molten metal slag or heavy grinding operations
would cause the blanket to exceed its maximum use temperature."
but since i use it on a bolt gun, im not that worried...
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
You're using it on your can right? Your can is going to get much hotter than 200 F, unless your rate of fire is so slow that the can doesn't get that hot.
It does have a strange wording on the site stating the 1800 figure, and then in the same brochure talking about the 200 number too. All I know for sure is what the lady told me and also what I read. The material will start to degrade when it's in contact with 2-300 degree heat for prolonged periods and especially when it's subjected to cycles of high heat and then cool down, like a can will do.
She likened the service I use the material for about like stress relieving metal in that the material is heated up slowly and then cooled down slowly. Velvetshield isn't designed for that type of service where it's in direct contact with the material.
I'm nobody special and she was a nice lady and very helpful with her information, I'm sure she'd tell you the same thing if you just call her up.
Everyone have a good weekend.
You're using it on your can right? Your can is going to get much hotter than 200 F, unless your rate of fire is so slow that the can doesn't get that hot.
It does have a strange wording on the site stating the 1800 figure, and then in the same brochure talking about the 200 number too. All I know for sure is what the lady told me and also what I read. The material will start to degrade when it's in contact with 2-300 degree heat for prolonged periods and especially when it's subjected to cycles of high heat and then cool down, like a can will do.
She likened the service I use the material for about like stress relieving metal in that the material is heated up slowly and then cooled down slowly. Velvetshield isn't designed for that type of service where it's in direct contact with the material.
I'm nobody special and she was a nice lady and very helpful with her information, I'm sure she'd tell you the same thing if you just call her up.
Everyone have a good weekend.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tburkes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
</div></div>
hmmm. thats odd... the package says * Maximum Allowable Service Temperature is 1800°F, and 3000°F for short duration.
but it does say
"Velvet Shield is designed to be used only for Welding, Brazing and Soldering. The material is not intended for use in high soaking temperatures (i.e. ovens or confined spaces where temperatures exceed
200°F) OR severe use conditions where excessive molten metal slag or heavy grinding operations
would cause the blanket to exceed its maximum use temperature."
but since i use it on a bolt gun, im not that worried... </div></div>
We have tried Velvet shield at my shop.... it lines our welding jackets that the guys wear when working on heavy machinery. They just dont last.
I have tried every suppressor wrap there is. The Elite Iron wrap is ok but I do not like that it has to be tied on. TAB's product is the best out there. I own many and not one has failed me, ever. I did damage one but it was my own fault. Tony has always taken care of me as a customer and I appreciate his professional manner in his business practices.
Thumbs up for TAB Products.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tburkes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uhhh, NO, Velvetshield is not what we use. I did just get off of the phone with the nice lady at Velvetshield and she told me that for the service I need she would not recommend the velvetshield because it starts to degrade at temperatures as low as 200-300 degrees F, similar to Nomex which we don't use either, when it is in direct contact with the heat source.
</div></div>
hmmm. thats odd... the package says * Maximum Allowable Service Temperature is 1800°F, and 3000°F for short duration.
but it does say
"Velvet Shield is designed to be used only for Welding, Brazing and Soldering. The material is not intended for use in high soaking temperatures (i.e. ovens or confined spaces where temperatures exceed
200°F) OR severe use conditions where excessive molten metal slag or heavy grinding operations
would cause the blanket to exceed its maximum use temperature."
but since i use it on a bolt gun, im not that worried... </div></div>
We have tried Velvet shield at my shop.... it lines our welding jackets that the guys wear when working on heavy machinery. They just dont last.
I have tried every suppressor wrap there is. The Elite Iron wrap is ok but I do not like that it has to be tied on. TAB's product is the best out there. I own many and not one has failed me, ever. I did damage one but it was my own fault. Tony has always taken care of me as a customer and I appreciate his professional manner in his business practices.
Thumbs up for TAB Products.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
I used to manufacture these anti-mirage wraps for
Eliteiron from MT.
The fabric is called Carbon X. Used in many firefighting application.
www.eliteiron.net
I used to manufacture these anti-mirage wraps for
Eliteiron from MT.
The fabric is called Carbon X. Used in many firefighting application.
www.eliteiron.net
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Monkeyman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Title says it all, what's the best solution? </div></div>Don't quickly shoot a lot of rounds.
Short of that: TAB cover; and pull it back to let the can cool.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Monkeyman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Title says it all, what's the best solution? </div></div>Don't quickly shoot a lot of rounds.
Short of that: TAB cover; and pull it back to let the can cool.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
KYS338, you said you thought the Elite Iron wrap is ok, but your dislike is it being tied on. Does it perform as well as the TAB in mirage? I am deciding between these two, and I have friends with both that both say theirs works best. I like how the Elite Iron ties on because I don't expect to be taking it off much, and my other friend with the TAB has actually accidentally shot his off when he was shooting a long string, and the recoil caused it to slowly slip down in front of the muzzle. It has only happened once, and I don't expect it to be an issue, but performance wise, which one do you think is better, or are they even?
KYS338, you said you thought the Elite Iron wrap is ok, but your dislike is it being tied on. Does it perform as well as the TAB in mirage? I am deciding between these two, and I have friends with both that both say theirs works best. I like how the Elite Iron ties on because I don't expect to be taking it off much, and my other friend with the TAB has actually accidentally shot his off when he was shooting a long string, and the recoil caused it to slowly slip down in front of the muzzle. It has only happened once, and I don't expect it to be an issue, but performance wise, which one do you think is better, or are they even?
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
remau308, I have no idea who your buddy is or what the circumstances where when he shot the cover down range.
I can tell you that I've never heard of one of our covers being shot down range that was installed correctly. If the covers are not installed with the built in recoil ridge behind the back of the can or locking mechanism then the can can work it's way forward under recoil and go bye bye down range.
Have fun with whatever you decide to go with.
remau308, I have no idea who your buddy is or what the circumstances where when he shot the cover down range.
I can tell you that I've never heard of one of our covers being shot down range that was installed correctly. If the covers are not installed with the built in recoil ridge behind the back of the can or locking mechanism then the can can work it's way forward under recoil and go bye bye down range.
Have fun with whatever you decide to go with.
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: remau308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">KYS338, you said you thought the Elite Iron wrap is ok, but your dislike is it being tied on. Does it perform as well as the TAB in mirage? I am deciding between these two, and I have friends with both that both say theirs works best. I like how the Elite Iron ties on because I don't expect to be taking it off much, and my other friend with the TAB has actually accidentally shot his off when he was shooting a long string, and the recoil caused it to slowly slip down in front of the muzzle. It has only happened once, and I don't expect it to be an issue, but performance wise, which one do you think is better, or are they even?
</div></div>
FYI: the Elite Iron wraps can slightly migrate forward. but keep an eye on it and its no big deal. depending on how tight you lace them you can slide off by hand and let can cool then slide back on. so lace tighter = less movement but harder to remove for cooling without unlacing. and vic versa. I have seen some of the Tab Gear units dterate over time, i have less experiance with the EI units but own two of them. but at around $40 i dont mind concidering them a consumable even though both manufactures will take care of you if you have any issues.
I have tried one of Mr. Mccaby's tab gear sleves and i shoot my EI wraps, i feel they preform about equaly.
here's one of mine in use on a mossberg MVP
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: remau308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">KYS338, you said you thought the Elite Iron wrap is ok, but your dislike is it being tied on. Does it perform as well as the TAB in mirage? I am deciding between these two, and I have friends with both that both say theirs works best. I like how the Elite Iron ties on because I don't expect to be taking it off much, and my other friend with the TAB has actually accidentally shot his off when he was shooting a long string, and the recoil caused it to slowly slip down in front of the muzzle. It has only happened once, and I don't expect it to be an issue, but performance wise, which one do you think is better, or are they even?
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FYI: the Elite Iron wraps can slightly migrate forward. but keep an eye on it and its no big deal. depending on how tight you lace them you can slide off by hand and let can cool then slide back on. so lace tighter = less movement but harder to remove for cooling without unlacing. and vic versa. I have seen some of the Tab Gear units dterate over time, i have less experiance with the EI units but own two of them. but at around $40 i dont mind concidering them a consumable even though both manufactures will take care of you if you have any issues.
I have tried one of Mr. Mccaby's tab gear sleves and i shoot my EI wraps, i feel they preform about equaly.
here's one of mine in use on a mossberg MVP
Re: Best way to eliminate suppressor mirage?
Looks like a great product.
Looks like a great product.
I have a new product that was given to me by the owner of a new company. It is a supressor sleeve and I am looking for someone to try it out. I need a professional sniper with a can to try it out. I will send one out free of charge to an indiviual who is a verified Marine Scout Sniper 8541/0317. Since the only way I can verify that you are in fact qualified is to check SSA (Scout Sniper Association) membership. In order to qualify I will need your SSA number. I will then need you to test it on your can and then send me a review of the sleeve. The sleeve will be yours to keep after the test. I will also want you to post some pics of the sleeve being tested and share your information with the members here. So this is a no BS free sleeve to a HOG with a can and the only thing you have to do is test it and review it.
I agree with above.
I also use and love the TAB cover. Great product. I shoot til its warm, pull it back and let the can cool, then slide it back into place. My only complaint with it is that after the first few hundred pulls back and forth, it doesn't quite stay snug on the can when moving anymore. I will probably have another one for my next suppressor.
Correct, they are just heat exchangers. I would be careful covering a Ti can because of the embrittlement issue when they get really hot.
+1 for TAB covers, great product
Current or prior?
Im fairly sure no current MSS is going to walk up and advertise... and half don't use cans.
Im fairly sure no current MSS is going to walk up and advertise... and half don't use cans.
What TBurkes said^^^^^^^
Here's my SAS R cover for a MK13-SD. Very nice stuff
Here's my SAS R cover for a MK13-SD. Very nice stuff
Anyone have any first han experience with the armagadeon that tbac is selling? How does it compare to the tab?
ive got an Armageddon and use it on my TBAC can. i have no frame of referrence to the TAB covers, but the one pictured two posts above from TAB looks almost identical to my Armageddon cover. Did TAB start putting a cinch-down rope on their covers after Armageddon came out with theirs?
Im interested in this comparison as well....
What about some means of just creating an effective mirage band above the suppressor?
Off the top of my head at 2:00 in the morning, I'm imagining a polymer or metal structure that attaches to the can fore and aft with narrow adjustable bands, and has a flat surface sitting 1 or 2" above the top of the can with heat reflective material on the underside. Make the flat surface an inch or two wider than the typical suppressor width, and let the heat rise up and to the sides. Would this stand any chance of working?
Off the top of my head at 2:00 in the morning, I'm imagining a polymer or metal structure that attaches to the can fore and aft with narrow adjustable bands, and has a flat surface sitting 1 or 2" above the top of the can with heat reflective material on the underside. Make the flat surface an inch or two wider than the typical suppressor width, and let the heat rise up and to the sides. Would this stand any chance of working?
I picked up the Armageddon Gear cover from TBAC to go with my newly-acquired 30BA, but unfortunately I can't compare it to the TAB as I've never owned one. The Armageddon one worked fine, and once you've tightened it up on your can you can slide it back down the barrel between strings to let the can cool without having to loosen the wrap. Does the cord wrapping, which is also available on the new TAB cover, allow you to attach foliage to break up the barrel outline? That would make a bit of a selling point for each if you were using it for hunting.
As for the last poster's idea of using something cheaper I have a friend that uses a strip of scrap cut out from an old bottle or packaging that is reasonably heat resistant and he uses it as a mirage cover for his rifle on hot days (just for the barrel). He wedges it under his scope to hold it in place but it is a very low-tech job. However it seems to work for him. My concern would be that heat would still roil up around the cover and still throw some amount of mirage, but different than you'd see without a cover.
As for the last poster's idea of using something cheaper I have a friend that uses a strip of scrap cut out from an old bottle or packaging that is reasonably heat resistant and he uses it as a mirage cover for his rifle on hot days (just for the barrel). He wedges it under his scope to hold it in place but it is a very low-tech job. However it seems to work for him. My concern would be that heat would still roil up around the cover and still throw some amount of mirage, but different than you'd see without a cover.
A water jacket around your suppressor similar to what was used on the Maxim Machine Gun ought to solve all your problems. Only issue is carrying around a pump to circulate the water and all the water.
;-)
;-)
