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Best way to measure distance.

Andeddu

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 26, 2017
10
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Hello all I’m getting into long range shooting. I have a custom built 300wm rifle based on a r700 action.

My local range goes out to 600 yards which I’ve maxed out and I’m comfortable on going farther.

I have some blm land not too far away I can go do my thing on.

What’s the best way about measuring 1000+ yards. I’ll be shooting at steel targets.

Should I buy a LRF set the target and drive away until I’m at the distance I want to fire at?

Or buy a Garmin gps watch and walk out to the target.

I know I’m thinking about this a bit too much. But what do you guys do? Thanks in advance.
 
Use the reticle. Measure the target and use your calibrated ruler to calculate distance.
 
Can anyone suggest a solid entry-level rangefinder in the $100-$250 range?
 
100' measuring tape x 30 = 1000

If it's reasonably flat, then the only thing I would add to Culpeper's suggestion is that you use a 300-foot tape. The FEWER the transitions, then better.

Oh. One more thing: A couple long screwdrivers, or similar, are pretty good to shove into the dirt through the tape's end loop, and mark the 300-feet on the other end as well.

Granted, this method is super high drag, and low speed. But damn...I've never EVER had to question my range either.

It HAS, on the other hand, been able to illuminate errors in at least one rangefinder. Kinda hard to argue with a range set up with steel tape to +/- about 1 inch. The only time I ever have to adjust the range stakes is when I rebuild the target frame AND replace the posts...and the posts have only needed it.. Oh,.... They haven't yet.

On BLM, the bigger issue may be figuring out a way to mark the ranges in a fashion that is both durable, but also unobtrusive enough to escape notice by other... "users" of the property.


-Nate
 
iPhone or similar using Google maps and measure tool. This is extremely accurate.

Used Bushnell CONX may be found in your price range.
 
Park your truck where you want to shoot from, walk target out to desired distance with LRF and range back to your truck. It'll be easier for a LRF to get a reading on the truck than a steel plate at distance.
 
Park your truck where you want to shoot from, walk target out to desired distance with LRF and range back to your truck. It'll be easier for a LRF to get a reading on the truck than a steel plate at distance.

Another dude holding a 4x4-foot sheet of something is easier, and makes the other end of the range mobile, via mobile...
 
You could get the 300’ tape for $28 at HD.. Comes in handy for scope calibration testing also.. For the cheaper range finders, you can always laser to 100 yards, then lase off your 100 yard target for 200, etc..
 
I shoot in a field where I can't leave my targets. Pick shooting position. Mark Mark your position on your garmin fortrex then drive until garmin fortrex says range you like.
 
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Just a couple of notes form my experiences.

1- Things usually look very different when standing looking for a target location than they do from a firing position. Before you decide where your ELR target needs to be, lay down at the FFP and look thru your scope or spotter, make sure to identify distances that aren't in the dead space or skylined once on your rifle. Reverse the process if your actually scouting your FFP from the target.
2- The tape idea is cute, but isn't particle over most of the undulating terrain and brush.
3- Mil reading a reasonably sized plate or the like at over 1K is super problematic not only for the resolution errors, but the minute the mirage changes the appearance of the target size.. With Mirage, I've been part of a mill read error that had us 400 yards short on a 22oo yard target.
4- If you don't have a mil grade finder, once your relatively sure of your target and FFP, leaving a vehicle back at the FFP or even the target is a great way to confirm the reads. Generally the returns are way more constant lazing the rear of a vehicle than the front and sides.
5- Using a GPS or even BalisticArcs mapping tool (if you had cell) are great secondary tools. It never hurts to mark your weight points at the FFP and target. That way if you do get a funky read you have 2 data points to compare.
 
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I shoot in a field where I can't leave my targets. Pick shooting position. Mark Mark your position on your garmin fortrex then drive until garmin fortrex says range you like.
Yes. Add a rangefinder to fine tune and you hit the easy button.
 
I almost always use my Sig kilo 2000.
Lately I've been playing with the BalisticsArc mapping tool, very accutate just a little slower.
 
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I have an iPhone but does the app still work in no service areas?
 
I have an iPhone but does the app still work in no service areas?
Measuring Tape, and similar apps operate using the GPS functions on your phone. You don't need cell signal, just GPS signal.
 
If your going to reuse this area over a long period of time find out from the county assessor who, if anyone, has the grazing lease and ask them if it would be OK to put out range marks along a fence line with the assurance your target will be far enough away to avoid having to repair barb wire. Offer to look over their livestock and make fence repairs and of course reassure them you'll keep the area clean and call to report problem people. I've got an place marked to 1760 yards, measured it with a range finder initially and then verified and adjusted with the 300' tape. My first markers were with the wire survey flags. My next upgrade was with stakes made from rebar. Third upgrade was plastic reflectors cable-tied to barb wire. Forth upgrade, I marked the shooting zone with cement cap blocks buried flush to the ground. Fifth upgrade, added and marked t-posts near the distance marker stakes. Lastly, we have added 4' fiberglass high-vis reflector sticks to the fence line. Seems some neanderthals were shooting the cable tied reflectors and breaking the barb wire. The narrow fiberglass sticks can't be seen till your much closer. The low to the ground rebar stakes quickly became hard to find with the tumble weeds along the fence.
 
Invest in a good range finder.

Examples would be Leica 1600, 1600B, Sig kilo 2000, 2200 ... any of these can be had for 300$ or less. It will be an invaluable tool that you will always need and use every time you go shooting.