Couldn't find anything on Bighorn website or internet, wondering if someone could give a quick run through of how to get the Bighorn TL2 bolt apart. Thanks
Gunsmithing Bighorn Bolt Disassembly
- Thread starter nfoley
- Start date
Pay attention to the orientation of the spring washers and make sure everything goes back together the same way. It's actually pretty simple.
I thought the bighorn was a 1/4 turn style to pull the firing pin, but i could be wrong. call Erin at Bighorn, real nice guy to talk to.
Took me a while to figure out but I'm slow. Just grab the bolt shroud and twist. It moves a quarter to half turn and the whole assembly pulls right out.
Threadcutter explained how to swap the bolt head
Don't do like I did and run the bolt head without the firing pin while checking headspace. The pushpin easily slides out causing the bolt to stop in its tracks. Takes careful work to get that pin back in. I did it twice! Didn't I say I was slow?
Threadcutter explained how to swap the bolt head
Don't do like I did and run the bolt head without the firing pin while checking headspace. The pushpin easily slides out causing the bolt to stop in its tracks. Takes careful work to get that pin back in. I did it twice! Didn't I say I was slow?
The newer bolts are 1/4 turn bayonet, older ones are Remy style. I bought my 3 x TL-2s just before they changed over 
. Not really a big deal, I don't take my bolt apart very often. I have a Kleindorst tool and it works just fine. Oh, and I see on their website that they don't even offer the TL-2s anymore.....
And, if you're going to check headspace, you really should remove the extractor and ejector while doing so. Yes, I know it's a pain, but it holds true for most, if not all bolt actions.
. Not really a big deal, I don't take my bolt apart very often. I have a Kleindorst tool and it works just fine. Oh, and I see on their website that they don't even offer the TL-2s anymore.....And, if you're going to check headspace, you really should remove the extractor and ejector while doing so. Yes, I know it's a pain, but it holds true for most, if not all bolt actions.
I only have a TL3 so I didn't know the TL2's didn't have that. Oh, and yes, the extractor was removed to. The ejector isn't on the bolt but in the body near the bolt release so I was good there. After all that I realized my go-gauge has a 'hole' for the firing pin and I didn't really need to remove the pin assembly.
Yep, we're finding the roundabout way to describe the upgrades from TL-2 to TL-3. Obviously, my TL-2's have plunger ejectors on the bolthead and your TL-3 has it on the rear/side (assuming left side, for a RBRP) of the action.
Whodathunkit ? Have never seen a headspace gauge with a plunger relief. No, wait a minute, my .223 gauges have them. (Sheepish grin......) I hadn't put 2 and 2 together......So that's what they're for....
Whodathunkit ? Have never seen a headspace gauge with a plunger relief. No, wait a minute, my .223 gauges have them. (Sheepish grin......) I hadn't put 2 and 2 together......So that's what they're for....
V
Vandy321
Guest
Did you ever find a good video or instruction on how to get the TL3/SR3 firing pin out?
Do you just pull up on the spring/metal tab (no clue what's its called) and turn it counter clockwise into thar recess to release tension?
Everywhere I read says its 'toolless', but I cant find any instructions.
Do you just pull up on the spring/metal tab (no clue what's its called) and turn it counter clockwise into thar recess to release tension?
Everywhere I read says its 'toolless', but I cant find any instructions.
Parshal explained it above. Hold the bolt body in your hand, and twist the shroud away from the cocking cam with the other hand.If you’re looking at the back of the bolt it’s clockwise rotation of the shroud.
