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Body die versus full length die

paramil

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 8, 2011
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So I have had issues chambering some twice fired 7.62 ammunition. I have trouble right before the bolt locks down when chambering a reloaded cartridge. I have been told I need a body die, and then another person recommended purchasing a small base die (which i have read tends to cut the life of the brass down a bit).

So pros and cons of each? Which one will alleviate my issue? Heck, I thought the full length re-sizing die took care of all this. Just shows I am still learning I guess.

So in the end should my go to die set be one of the two dies listed above, neck sizing die and a bullet seating die? Its for a bolt gun so I see no need for crimping.

Opinions and recommendations welcome.
 
Redding also makes a small base body die.

The difference is it sizes the case head an additional .001". That's it. It does not cut down the life of the case.

But are you sure it's binding there or maybe you haven't bumped your shoulder far enough?
 
+1 for 918. Make sure its sized far enough and of course trimmed to length. You won't need a small base die for a bolt gun.

Body die helps if you already have loaded rounds. If not, its not really necessary

If it is full length sized properly and only a few are starting to stick, then you need to start annealing your brass. Heat them with a small torch till they just start to change color and drop them in cold water. Its what I do. Promise they will size and you'll get no more sticking.

I still recomend that you get a neck die. Necking die will increase accuracy and consistency. Use a necking die only till they won't chamber. Then full length. Probably every 3-4 firings you'll need to full length, then anneal when full length won't work and full length size again.
 
Just amplify...

A body die will size the body and shoulder.

FL die (obviously) sizes all dimensions

SBD specifically sizes the base of the case to a minimum spec (as well as all other dimensions, similar to FL die, to nominal specs).

Neck die only sizes the neck.
 
Ink up with a sharpie to see where it is actually sticking. It may be the shoulder or base but until you ink it up and try it in the chamber you will being guessing and be sure when you extract the inked up case you pull it back alittle till you can get your finger in there to hold the cartridge straight till it clears the chamber as you can get false marks leading you to believe it is something other than where it is actually rubbing.
 
Which one will alleviate my issue?

What you need is some measurements to determine which of the myriad of sizing parameters is not being satisfied by your current die.

So ink it up with a sharpie and run it through a cycle.

It could be the neck is too long, the bullet seated too far out, the shoulder too long, the body too wide at the shoulder, the body too wide at the base, primer sticking out the back,...

So, get in there and figure out which of the parameters is not being satisfied.

One way to start is to chamber a sized case--if the sized case fits and the loaded ammo did not then it is not a problem with the die. (simple, right!)
Then at each stage along the way (except between powder and seating a bullet) chamber the case again and see which step is causing the problem.
 
O/P, You first should do some measurements to determine where your issue actually is. It just might be you don't have your F/L die turned down in your press enough and you aren't bumping the shoulders of your brass enough. Another 1/8th turn could remedy your problem. 90% of the time, that's all that is needed. Even trying as better sizing lubricant can help the issue. Try measuring your shoulder bump.

Out of all of the 308 rifles I've owned over the years, only one, a SSG 69 actually needed a small base die. The chamber in that SSG 69 needed a die that sized the base of the brass down to .368". Normal F/L dies sized the base to .470" and that wasn't enough for the SSG.