Body+neck dies, help for setting please

[RTTY]

Hello guys!

Waiting for the new Full Length die, Forster FL Bushing, I'm testing some settings with the body and neck bushing dies.

My procedure are the following:
First that I used are the neck bushing die, I remove the bushing, the I set the correct dept of the die for shoulder bumping.
When I made the correct Headspace I mount the bushing and start with the first step of "Full Length sizing".

Second step are the body sizing.
I set the body die to not make any variation at the neck bushing/Headspace sizing.

Are this procedure correct?

Thanks, Camillo

 

[XLR308]

Since i deprime in a separate step first i use the body die and then the neck bushing die.
I only have one set of Redding dies that have the Micrometer neck die and body die so they really dont get used much since i have three different sets of 65 Creedmoor dies. I have a set of Hornady i use for Large primer brass, Redding bushing neck and body die set and a set of Type S FL bushing dies. The type S FL dies are what i use near 100% of the rime and the others just mainly collect dust.

Your post is somewhat confusing, you said your using a neck bushing die to set shoulder bump and then using the body die ? Thats not how it works, if your bushing die is a full length sizing die with a neck bushing then there is no need for the body die.

 

[RTTY]

Yes I use the neck bushing also for the headspace becoise the Forster neck bushing permit to set also the shoulder.

But if you tell me that the correct procedure for sizing full the brass with the neck and the body are :
first, using the body and set the body and the shoulder for best Headspace.

And then use the neck with bushing that are settet with the Headspace measures that are less than the Headspace setted with body I follow your advice.

I'm waiting for the FL Bushing by Forster, when this arrive I have in mind to use only the FLB by Forster.

Thanks

 

[Mike Casselton]

If you body size AFTER setting the shoulder, you risk moving the shoulder forward.

The easiest way to explain it is to grasp a partially filled balloon in your hand. Imagine the part by your thumb and index finger being the shoulder.
Squeeze the balloon and watch the other part blow forward.



This is what happens when you size the body of the brass. Just before getting it correct, you'll see the shoulder actually move up.

 

[RTTY]

If you body size AFTER setting the shoulder, you risk moving the shoulder forward.

The easiest way to explain it is to grasp a partially filled balloon in your hand. Imagine the part by your thumb and index finger being the shoulder.
Squeeze the balloon and watch the other part blow forward.



This is what happens when you size the body of the brass. Just before getting it correct, you'll see the shoulder actually move up.

Hello!
this can appen also if, and this is my case, I don't use an expander ball on the neck die?

Thanks

 

[Mike Casselton]

I still can't understand why so many people like to complicate brass resizing.
With a proper set of dies, it can be done in one stroke of the press.

 

[lash]

Hello!
this can appen also if, and this is my case, I don't use an expander ball on the neck die?

Thanks

Yes, this happens whether you use the expander ball or not. Read through the @Mike Casselton explanation again. As you full length size your brass (body die) you will be moving material and that material pushes up to move your head spacing.

It sounds to me like you should wait for your full length bushing sizing die from Forster and then carefully follow the directions that come with the die.

There are also some great resource articles pinned in the reloading section here that can be very helpful.

Here, read the following article carefully. There are four more in this section detailing the next steps for everything you need to know.

Hand loading for Long range 1: brass case prep

Let's look at our cartridge brass first. Everything we do in hand loading is in the name of consistency, shot to shot. (Technically not "reloading" which is quick & expedient for the likes of short range speed shooting such as IPSC & Steel challenge shoots.) So there it is before us- a fine...

www.snipershide.com

 

[RTTY]

I still can't understand why so many people like to complicate brass resizing.
With a proper set of dies, it can be done in one stroke of the press.

Because I started reloading from about a year.
I learned by my self, some time right some time wrong....
I have only one rifle, only one caliber so I've one neck bushing die, one body die, this week arrive the FB bushing die.
At your opinion are or not One set of die?!
Please tell me what is your idea of "a proper set of dies" ?

Thanks

 

[RTTY]

Yes, this happens whether you use the expander ball or not. Read through the @Mike Casselton explanation again. As you full length size your brass (body die) you will be moving material and that material pushes up to move your head spacing.

It sounds to me like you should wait for your full length bushing sizing die from Forster and then carefully follow the directions that come with the die.

There are also some great resource articles pinned in the reloading section here that can be very helpful.

Here, read the following article carefully. There are four more in this section detailing the next steps for everything you need to know.

Hand loading for Long range 1: brass case prep

Let's look at our cartridge brass first. Everything we do in hand loading is in the name of consistency, shot to shot. (Technically not "reloading" which is quick & expedient for the likes of short range speed shooting such as IPSC & Steel challenge shoots.) So there it is before us- a fine...

www.snipershide.com

Hello Man!
Very thanks for your appeciate post, I read with voracity all the articles.

Thanks again Man!