I'm modifying a factory stock, when I add wood and fill existing dents, it would be nice to have a product like auto body bondo, to feather in and fill small nicks, and blend in added wood. Can anyone tell me what to buy that will adhere to wood? I'll be painting the stock.
Gunsmithing "bondo" for wood stock??
- Thread starter 660grizzlyguy
- Start date
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
They actually make Bondo for wood. I had my house painted in the spring and the contractor used to repair some pretty deep gouges in otherwise good wood.
Bondo Wood Filler
They actually make Bondo for wood. I had my house painted in the spring and the contractor used to repair some pretty deep gouges in otherwise good wood.
Bondo Wood Filler
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
I've used Acraglass from brownells for this type of application. It's very strong and stable. Actually gives a better finish than bondo.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1038/Product/ACRAGLAS_GEL_reg_
I've used Acraglass from brownells for this type of application. It's very strong and stable. Actually gives a better finish than bondo.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1038/Product/ACRAGLAS_GEL_reg_
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
I agree with LongshotBML...Bondo is sort of crumbly for my taste. Acraglass Gel works well and is strong.
I agree with LongshotBML...Bondo is sort of crumbly for my taste. Acraglass Gel works well and is strong.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
There is acra-gel which is the consistency of toothpaste, and acra-glass which is syrup. The gel will dry a milky white and glass is clear. Both come with black or brown to color when mixing.
You would need to decide which consistency will work for your application. Both work very well with wood.
There is acra-gel which is the consistency of toothpaste, and acra-glass which is syrup. The gel will dry a milky white and glass is clear. Both come with black or brown to color when mixing.
You would need to decide which consistency will work for your application. Both work very well with wood.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
I've used Bondo for a couple of stocks one was my daughters 10/22 but it wasn't a wood stock, did well though. I use it in all my wood projects that I paint, I just like it better than wood putty. I have some fiberglass compound that works well and hardens pretty hard too, that might give u a better surface to paint on, I don't know.
I've used Bondo for a couple of stocks one was my daughters 10/22 but it wasn't a wood stock, did well though. I use it in all my wood projects that I paint, I just like it better than wood putty. I have some fiberglass compound that works well and hardens pretty hard too, that might give u a better surface to paint on, I don't know.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
I've used bondo before but that was to add texture to a GI M14 stock.
I've used bondo before but that was to add texture to a GI M14 stock.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
You may want to take a look at "Metal to Metal" it's an epoxy that has ground aluminum in it.
It's very easy to work with (like bondo) and dries very hard.
You may want to take a look at "Metal to Metal" it's an epoxy that has ground aluminum in it.
It's very easy to work with (like bondo) and dries very hard.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
Bondo will work well on wood. As A furniture repair tech for a major southeast furniture company, we use bondo all the time to repair damaged wood furniture. The trick is all in the sanding. We use 80 grit to rough form the shape, 120 grit to get the final form. and 220 grit for final sanding and to feather in edges. If you want it to look like the wood around it, you can use a grease pencil in the appropriate color to extend the grain lines into the repaired area. To get the repaired area to match the color of the surrounding wood we use wood toners in aresoal. But the preferred method is to use pigment powders and clear coats to blend in the damaged area. Of course if the stock is to painted in opaque colors, the toners and grain lines are not required.
Hope this helps.
d then use a wood toner type paint
Bondo will work well on wood. As A furniture repair tech for a major southeast furniture company, we use bondo all the time to repair damaged wood furniture. The trick is all in the sanding. We use 80 grit to rough form the shape, 120 grit to get the final form. and 220 grit for final sanding and to feather in edges. If you want it to look like the wood around it, you can use a grease pencil in the appropriate color to extend the grain lines into the repaired area. To get the repaired area to match the color of the surrounding wood we use wood toners in aresoal. But the preferred method is to use pigment powders and clear coats to blend in the damaged area. Of course if the stock is to painted in opaque colors, the toners and grain lines are not required.
Hope this helps.
d then use a wood toner type paint
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246016
The blue one about sixth down is a factory 10/22 stock with a little rasping, Bondo, and FleckStone from Home Depot.
I did it for my daughter when she was about 9, 14 years ago, damnit.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246016
The blue one about sixth down is a factory 10/22 stock with a little rasping, Bondo, and FleckStone from Home Depot.
I did it for my daughter when she was about 9, 14 years ago, damnit.
Re: "bondo" for wood stock??
Screw Bondo.
The best filler is the wood itself, and the best binding agent is the finish itself.
First, steam out dents by placing a thin absorbent pad over the dent, saturated with rubbing alky, and apply a steam iron over the pad. This will steam out and reinflate the individual tubular wood fibers with the expanding steam while plasticizing (liquifying) the natural lignin wood resin. When it cools, it will be a lot more like it was prior to the dent.
Ammonia will also work but it stinks like heck. Ammonia does a much better job of plasticizing lignin. If you use it, try to find janitorial strength ammonia in a hadware store.
Keep ammonia and chlorine bleach far the hell away from each other!
When mixed, they release chlorine gas, which is deadly. I say this because I sometimes also use bleach (and fabric dye, for that matter) on stocks. I make damned sure the ammonia gets used first and has thoroughly evaporated before I reach for the bleach. Ammonia first, because bleach leaves chemically active residue, but ammonia is a gas and doesn't (I hope).
Next, using a medium grit sandpaper (between 320 and 180), put down a glob of finish material (I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil because it's repairable and has a long working time) directly atop the blemish and begin circular wet sanding it with the finish agent. A 'mud' will form, and this is your ideal filler.
Keep adding finish agent and sanding until a puddle of filler/mud covers the blemish. Once the covering is substantial and uniform, put it all away in a warm, dry, dark place and leave it completely alone for at least a week.
It will have completely hardened. If it hasn't (a gentle thumbnail leaves a dent) give it more time and apply a thinner layer next time. Sand it down to the grain and see how well you've done. If you need more fill, repeat the process.
When sanding near sharp edges, employ a rigid sanding block so the edges don't get eroded.
If the ding is so extensive it won't steam out and it won't fill, put wood filler down into it, then remove enough to leave a shallow depression which can be filled with the above technique. Not deep, we're only talking about the thickness of a few layers of paint.
This will provide a repair that's worthy of being seen through a transparent finish.
Greg
Screw Bondo.
The best filler is the wood itself, and the best binding agent is the finish itself.
First, steam out dents by placing a thin absorbent pad over the dent, saturated with rubbing alky, and apply a steam iron over the pad. This will steam out and reinflate the individual tubular wood fibers with the expanding steam while plasticizing (liquifying) the natural lignin wood resin. When it cools, it will be a lot more like it was prior to the dent.
Ammonia will also work but it stinks like heck. Ammonia does a much better job of plasticizing lignin. If you use it, try to find janitorial strength ammonia in a hadware store.
Keep ammonia and chlorine bleach far the hell away from each other!
When mixed, they release chlorine gas, which is deadly. I say this because I sometimes also use bleach (and fabric dye, for that matter) on stocks. I make damned sure the ammonia gets used first and has thoroughly evaporated before I reach for the bleach. Ammonia first, because bleach leaves chemically active residue, but ammonia is a gas and doesn't (I hope).
Next, using a medium grit sandpaper (between 320 and 180), put down a glob of finish material (I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil because it's repairable and has a long working time) directly atop the blemish and begin circular wet sanding it with the finish agent. A 'mud' will form, and this is your ideal filler.
Keep adding finish agent and sanding until a puddle of filler/mud covers the blemish. Once the covering is substantial and uniform, put it all away in a warm, dry, dark place and leave it completely alone for at least a week.
It will have completely hardened. If it hasn't (a gentle thumbnail leaves a dent) give it more time and apply a thinner layer next time. Sand it down to the grain and see how well you've done. If you need more fill, repeat the process.
When sanding near sharp edges, employ a rigid sanding block so the edges don't get eroded.
If the ding is so extensive it won't steam out and it won't fill, put wood filler down into it, then remove enough to leave a shallow depression which can be filled with the above technique. Not deep, we're only talking about the thickness of a few layers of paint.
This will provide a repair that's worthy of being seen through a transparent finish.
Greg
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