• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

Rifle Scopes Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

LSOSGT1109

Demoted by the change
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 19, 2006
724
0
49
London, KY
I made it to the range today to zero my new Bushnell tactical 6-24 FFP. It's mounted on my Savage 10FP in Badger Max50 standard height rings on an EGW 20 MOA base. The elevation is bottomed out and the POI is still about 3/4 MIL high at 100yds! I know an obvious solution to this would be to switch to a Zero MOA base but I was hoping for another magic solution. I'd love to be able to stay with the 20 MOA base so I can have enough elevation to get to 1000yds. Any suggestions? My load is 178 Amax moly over 44.3gr of RL-15 averaging 2670fps. Other than this problem, I love the scope! My load worked out pretty well too! This is a ten shot group from 100. The one low and the one high were my fault! The target is a 1" square.
101_4228.jpg
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">15 moa base? </div></div>

Too simple of a solution there Jason, its gotta be a more elusive fix than that!
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

Huh, never thought of a 15 min or 10 min base! A 10 MOA base would be best to save on up elevation. Anybody know who makes 10 minute bases?
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adician</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Zero at 200 and rock on. </div></div>


He'd still be almost a minute high if 308 and more if flatter shooter.....
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

Here's some thru the scope pics for those that may like to see them.

Tennis ball at 258 yards. I couldn't get the light just right on this one.
101_4227.jpg


100yd target at 24X
101_4223.jpg


14X
101_4224.jpg


10X
101_4225.jpg


6X
101_4226.jpg
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSP446</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm thinking I'd still be close to 1/2 mil high at 200. I may try shooting at 200 and see though. </div></div>

If you're 1/2 mil high at 100 you should be close to dead on at 200.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

Another solution is to get a pair of Burris Signature rings with adjustable inserts.Then you can tune the exact angle you need your scope to sit creating a mock zero stop and also align the bore axis with the mechanical center of your scope.Beneficial if you ever have the elevation dialed all the way up because the erector won't be bumping on the sides of the scope tube.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

Add some more powder and get the bullet moving a little faster
grin.gif
. Seems like it would be the cheapest and best way to correct for this since you dont need to come up that much. Other than that the 15MOA would be a good solution as stated above and most likely the best fix.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

I need my POI to come down about 3/4 minute at 100 not up. I'm gonna get a Seekins 15 minute base but until then, I'm shoot it the way it is. I'm thinking it should be just about dead on at 250. I'll start my dopes from there.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSP446</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I need my POI to come down about 3/4 minute at 100 not up. I'm gonna get a Seekins 15 minute base but until then, I'm shoot it the way it is. I'm thinking it should be just about dead on at 250. I'll start my dopes from there. </div></div>

It's much better to zero at 100 yards so the conditions doesn't effect your zero, altitude or temperature change can move your bullet enough to make a difference at longer ranges. If you zero 1 mil high at 100 you won't need to touch your knobs until 300 yards, then you can just factor the 1 mil into your long range dope so you can use the reticle properly for wind holds.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: redneckbmxer24</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSP446</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I need my POI to come down about 3/4 minute at 100 not up. I'm gonna get a Seekins 15 minute base but until then, I'm shoot it the way it is. I'm thinking it should be just about dead on at 250. I'll start my dopes from there. </div></div>

It's much better to zero at 100 yards so the conditions doesn't effect your zero, altitude or temperature change can move your bullet enough to make a difference at longer ranges. If you zero 1 mil high at 100 you won't need to touch your knobs until 300 yards, then you can just factor the 1 mil into your long range dope so you can use the reticle properly for wind holds. </div></div>

I'm trying to get my mind wrapped around this. I ran the numbers thru JBM and if I zero 1 mil high at 100 then I'm dead on at 250. So would I calculate my long range dopes from 250 if not, how would I figure that 1 mil into the dopes?
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">[/quote]<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSP446</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: redneckbmxer24</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
KSP446 said:
I need my POI to come down about 3/4 minute at 100 not up. I'm gonna get a Seekins 15 minute base but until then, I'm shoot it the way it is. I'm thinking it should be just about dead on at 250. I'll start my dopes from there. </div></div>

It's much better to zero at 100 yards so the conditions doesn't effect your zero, altitude or temperature change can move your bullet enough to make a difference at longer ranges. If you zero 1 mil high at 100 you won't need to touch your knobs until 300 yards, then you can just factor the 1 mil into your long range dope so you can use the reticle properly for wind holds. </div></div>

I'm trying to get my mind wrapped around this. I ran the numbers thru JBM and if I zero 1 mil high at 100 then I'm dead on at 250. So would I calculate my long range dopes from 250 if not, how would I figure that 1 mil into the dopes? </div></div>

You would just hold everything less than a mil. For adjustments over a mil you simply get your dope from a 100 yard zero and when you dial it you dial one mil less than you would actually need and hold on the crosshairs. For example if your zerod one mil high at 100 yards so you would hold low one mil and you needed 7.2 mils to get to whatever distance your shooting you would dial 6.2 mils and hold on the crosshair.
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

The drop table results are what they are.

If you plug in a 250yd zero your drops at different ranges are for a 250yd zero, not for a 100 yd zero, so no accommodation is necessary, the drop calculation is already done.

You can either dial it in, or hold off in mils.

Your 100yd zero is the first dot above the crosshair.
200yd is 1/2 mil up.
300yd is 1/2 mil down or 4 clicks up.
400 yd is 1 1/2 mil down, or 13 clicks up...etc...

With an 8" vital zone you can hold on center mass to 300 yards ...that's your point blank range.

There's no problem with your base, and you might need all of it to get to 1000yd with out any hold over.

TC
 
Re: Bottomed out my Bushnell FFP

You might try moving the scope forward or backward in the rings. I'm not sure which direction will give you what you want, but since the base is canted - the placement of the elevation mechanism along the slope will be different. Maybe just enough to get your 3/4 mil.

Regards!