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Brass Sizing Question

Jig Stick

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 27, 2010
1,438
5
45
Pittsburgh PA
I put the first 30 bullets through my new BAT Actioned 300 winmag, and now have some fire-formed brass. I would like to keep this brass blown out to my chamber instead of full length sizing. Im using an RCBS RockChucker press, and I have RCBS full length and neck sizing dies. Im not quite sure how to set up my neck sizing die.

I used a comparator and my calipers to measure the blown out cases OAL. Do I just set up my neck sizing die high, and pass the case through it, measure it, and make sure its OAL hasnt changed?
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Your decision on how far down the neck you want to size. Depending on how much neck tension you want. Some have said consistent neck tension is one of the most valuable accuracy producing variables that there is. Read the http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html
You should be able to visually see as you move the bushing down the neck. You really can't go to little unless you have a magazine but you can go to far. You can use a little Dyekem if you really need.
Big part of neck tension is also annealing.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Thank you for the replies. I now understand how to set the neck die. I have heard that it is a good idea to shorten the case by 0.001 to ensure the case will feed and extract properly. Can I set the neck sizing die to also bump the case back a thousandth?
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

A neck sizing die won't bump the shoulder. I don't know about the die you have in your set for full length sizing but the one in my redding competition die set is just for bumping the shoulder. You carefully just touch the case to the die when you set it and then when you size it should be about .001. Make take some fiddling.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

So how would I accomplish bumping the shoulder back but only neck sizing the brass? Or do I have to pick one or the other? I'm trying to keep my resized brass between 0.001 and 0.003 smaller than my headspace measurement while only neck sizing
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

I am not sure that all bushing dies will not bump the shoulder, I thought a Redding die would. I can see no reason for anyone making a bushing die that would not bump if the user desired to. I make my own dies and I certainly make them so they will bump if I want them to. Look into it and I think you may find that, at least some of, the bushing dies will bump the shoulder.
I am not even sure that R.C.B.S. dies wont do it. For what my opinion is worth, I think you are going about sizing your brass in the best manner possible.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Where there is a market there is a way.....
I present the Forster Bump+neck sizing die with bushings.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=27654

bushingbump_necksizing_die_Kit.jpg
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where there is a market there is a way.....
I present the Forster Bump+neck sizing die with bushings.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=27654

bushingbump_necksizing_die_Kit.jpg
</div></div>

Got one of these for my 7mmRM and going to be getting one for my 6.5x47L. Forster makes good stuff. I used to buy the redding micrometer die sets, but now I buy forster for half the price and get the exact same result.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 18Echo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Got one of these for my 7mmRM and going to be getting one for my 6.5x47L. Forster makes good stuff. I used to buy the redding micrometer die sets, but now I buy forster for half the price and get the exact same result. </div></div>

The Forster website shows them for the 6x47, but not the 6.5x47.
Do they make them in the 6.5 variety?
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fw707</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 18Echo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Got one of these for my 7mmRM and going to be getting one for my 6.5x47L. Forster makes good stuff. I used to buy the redding micrometer die sets, but now I buy forster for half the price and get the exact same result. </div></div>

The Forster website shows them for the 6x47, but not the 6.5x47.
Do they make them in the 6.5 variety?

</div></div>

could have sworn that I saw the 6.5x47L on the Midway USA website....

Yes, I did <a href="http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?
productNumber=725870" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">HERE.</a>

It's backordered though...
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jig Stick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So how would I accomplish bumping the shoulder back but only neck sizing the brass? Or do I have to pick one or the other? I'm trying to keep my resized brass between 0.001 and 0.003 smaller than my headspace measurement while only neck sizing </div></div>

Bumping the shoulder back .001"-.003" = a F/L sizing die. Neck sizing = neck sizing only which does not touch the body of the case.

Redding, Forester and Hornady make bushing dies, which allows you to vary your neck/bullet tension by using different sized bushings. Bushing dies can be had in "neck only" sizing or F/L sizing. You decide which one you want. For bolt guns, many people get a neck only sizer and the buy a body only sizer (From Redding) . For autoloaders, it's best to buy a F/L bushing sizing die, which F/L sizes every time.

Even If you neck size only, you will need to F/L size after 4 or so firing. A F/L die will bump (resize) the body and shoulder. If you want to bump you shoulder back .001"-.003" for your rifle, you set your F/L die to do that for your particular rifle's chamber.

For my precision rifles, I decided to use a Redding bushing neck only sizer. I also bought a Redding "Body" only" die. This "body only"die sizes only the body of the case (doesn't touch the neck) and will bump the shoulder to however you adjust it to size in your press. Fired cases get a sizing in the F/L body only die. They then get neck only sized with the neck only bushing die. After being fired, the cases get neck only sized and fired 3-4 more times. After the 4th firing, the cases go into the F/L body die only again to bring the case back to original dimensions. After 4 or so firings, the brass cases will stretch to the point where they will stick or be difficult to chamber in your rifle.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Thanks!
I've got a 6.5-47L in the works, so it looks like that die and the regular FL set should have things covered.
I've been setting up FL dies to bump the shoulders. Wouldn't it still be necessary to FL size occasionally?
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FLIGHT762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> As said by others, your F/L die will only bump the shoulder back. </div></div>

HUH?

A FL die sets the ID of the neck, bumps the shoulder, and sizes the body, all in one step.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: _9H</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FLIGHT762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> As said by others, your F/L die will only bump the shoulder back. </div></div>

HUH?

A FL die sets the ID of the neck, bumps the shoulder, and sizes the body, all in one step. </div></div>

Maybe I should have made it clearer I was trying to say a F/L die sizes the body, bumps the shoulder and sizes the neck. A neck sizing die will NOT bump the shoulder or size the body, it only resizes the neck.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Ok. So I need some opinions now. From what I understand, in order to achieve the best accuracy, it's best to shoot brass that has been fire formed in your guns chamber. Which of the following would be the better choice?

1: take brass fired in your gun, get the OAL, and then full length size to 0.001 - 0.003 shorter than the OAL to ensure easy extraction and tight chambering, and then seat bullets to my desired depth

2: take brass fired in my gun, neck size only, and seat bullets to my desired depth?

I know that eventually if I neck size only, the brass will need full length sized because it's going to grow. But do you guys really think that I will see a difference in load performance depending on if I pick option 1 vs option 2 above
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

Try number 2 first. If your bolt will close without forcing compared to factory ammo you are good to go until you can't. Then you go with number one. Fire formed brass will last much longer than full length resized brass.
Don't forget to check trim length after sizing. Brass can stretch after full lenght sizing so I like to trim every firing even if it only takes a little shred off.
 
Re: Brass Sizing Question

You measure the outside diameter of the neck of a factory round, but you need to know the brass you are going to use before ordering your bushings.

In .308 Win., I use three different sized bushings for three different types of brass, .337" for Federal, .333" for Hornady and .331" for Winchester.

I measured my loaded necks with a digital caliper and deducted .001". That is what Redding suggested when i did my research before orgering the bushings. Some will say to deduct .002"-.003" for your correct bushing. There are lots of recommendations on the net with opinions. I've found that my -.001" measurement is working well. It wouldn't hurt anything to use the -.002" measurement. For autoloaders, some say to use -.003".

I bought the TiN bushings, but at about $22.00 a pop, it can get pricey.