Whats the best way to break in a new .308 Barrel, For Example Barrels like Bartlein, Broughton or Rock?? Some say Clean after every shot, Every three shot....What chemical to use, patches etc etc???
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Re: Break in of New Barrel
Shoot it.
Shoot it.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
Just shoot it!
Just shoot it!
Re: Break in of New Barrel
My last Bartlein I ran about 5-7 clean dry patches through it when I got it back, shot about about 120 rounds, cleaned it, then shot about 30 more through it to foul it for a competition and then fired about 120 more since then. I might clean it again in another 200 rounds before the next competition.
In short, breaking in barrels and cleaning are both way overrated.
My last Bartlein I ran about 5-7 clean dry patches through it when I got it back, shot about about 120 rounds, cleaned it, then shot about 30 more through it to foul it for a competition and then fired about 120 more since then. I might clean it again in another 200 rounds before the next competition.
In short, breaking in barrels and cleaning are both way overrated.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
Fire a round, fire another round, fire another round, and fire another round. If you continue to have ammo in your possesion, repeart the previous sentence.
Seriously, this topic comes up all the time and bottom line --- SHOOT THE DAMN THING. A cleaning rod with jag/brush will do more damage to barrel and crown then a lead bullet with a copper jacket.
Fire a round, fire another round, fire another round, and fire another round. If you continue to have ammo in your possesion, repeart the previous sentence.
Seriously, this topic comes up all the time and bottom line --- SHOOT THE DAMN THING. A cleaning rod with jag/brush will do more damage to barrel and crown then a lead bullet with a copper jacket.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
I am a firm beleaver in barrel break in.
Here is a link with some info
Break in
Make sure you use a bore guide, and take alot of care when running a rod through, always send rod from the back of the rifle forward through bore and never drag a "Jag" backwards , it can nic the crown and scratch the inside of the barrel.
I use a wetpatch then dry patch,"I dont use a brush for break in" it is important that the barrel doesnt have a bunch of oil in it at time of fire, it can mess up the inside finish when the oil goes under pressure.
I am a firm beleaver in barrel break in.
Here is a link with some info
Break in
Make sure you use a bore guide, and take alot of care when running a rod through, always send rod from the back of the rifle forward through bore and never drag a "Jag" backwards , it can nic the crown and scratch the inside of the barrel.
I use a wetpatch then dry patch,"I dont use a brush for break in" it is important that the barrel doesnt have a bunch of oil in it at time of fire, it can mess up the inside finish when the oil goes under pressure.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
I have read the reasoning behind brake in is to remove any loose metal that mite come off a new barrel's lands. If not removed the small metal shavings can get ironed in the grooves. Not sure if this is true or not but makes since to me.
Maybe a custom barrel doesn't need to be broke in because of better quality. I have several rifles that I have not shot yet for this reason. I am still on the fence about brake in. Again I don't know but the way I see it is if someone came up with this idea it may have merritt.
If brake in does not cost you any money then how can it hurt ? If it only takes a little time and effort then why not do it. The problem for me is, if you don't do it and the gun does not shoot good groups then who's fault is it yours or the barrel manufacturer. Then you will be questioning this process validity for ever.
Question is , how is it possible to tell. Is there a way to know for sure ? Bore scope ? I hope this question can be answered for sure some day. It has been said that the barrel is the heart of the system. Am I stabbing myself in the heart if I don't do it ? I would hate to ruin a good rifle because I just had to shoot it then got lazy and did not brake it in. Do you think this is the same as a new engine brake in period ?
I have read the reasoning behind brake in is to remove any loose metal that mite come off a new barrel's lands. If not removed the small metal shavings can get ironed in the grooves. Not sure if this is true or not but makes since to me.
Maybe a custom barrel doesn't need to be broke in because of better quality. I have several rifles that I have not shot yet for this reason. I am still on the fence about brake in. Again I don't know but the way I see it is if someone came up with this idea it may have merritt.
If brake in does not cost you any money then how can it hurt ? If it only takes a little time and effort then why not do it. The problem for me is, if you don't do it and the gun does not shoot good groups then who's fault is it yours or the barrel manufacturer. Then you will be questioning this process validity for ever.
Question is , how is it possible to tell. Is there a way to know for sure ? Bore scope ? I hope this question can be answered for sure some day. It has been said that the barrel is the heart of the system. Am I stabbing myself in the heart if I don't do it ? I would hate to ruin a good rifle because I just had to shoot it then got lazy and did not brake it in. Do you think this is the same as a new engine brake in period ?
Re: Break in of New Barrel
Bolt up
Bolt back
Bolt foward and chamber a round
Bolt down
Shoot
Repeat
There is no none zero nota scientific proof that clean shoot clean shoot does anything, a barrel will either shoot or it won't, a patch soaked in cleaning fluid will not remove burrs from the chamber job, tool marks or anything other that fouling, if it did I could take a vixen file to your outside of your barrel and polish away the damage.
Bolt up
Bolt back
Bolt foward and chamber a round
Bolt down
Shoot
Repeat
There is no none zero nota scientific proof that clean shoot clean shoot does anything, a barrel will either shoot or it won't, a patch soaked in cleaning fluid will not remove burrs from the chamber job, tool marks or anything other that fouling, if it did I could take a vixen file to your outside of your barrel and polish away the damage.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
Less typing, more shooting! As said before a small wet patch and brass jag are not going to be doing any de-burring of a stainless barrel.
Less typing, more shooting! As said before a small wet patch and brass jag are not going to be doing any de-burring of a stainless barrel.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
If it's a hand lapped barrel from a quality barrel maker you really dont need to break it in. As others have stated just shoot it. I usually run a patch through mine to see how badly it's fouling after shooting two or three boxes of ammo through it. That's more to test the quality of the barrel rather than a breaking in process. Constantly running jags and brushes through your barrel will cause more harm than good. Most barrels take a while to settle down and the accuracy actually improves a bit over time. Constant cleaning just delays this from happening.
If it's a hand lapped barrel from a quality barrel maker you really dont need to break it in. As others have stated just shoot it. I usually run a patch through mine to see how badly it's fouling after shooting two or three boxes of ammo through it. That's more to test the quality of the barrel rather than a breaking in process. Constantly running jags and brushes through your barrel will cause more harm than good. Most barrels take a while to settle down and the accuracy actually improves a bit over time. Constant cleaning just delays this from happening.
Re: Break in of New Barrel
If you have to break a barrel in you need a better quality barrel. We pay a lot of money to get a lapped uniform finsh in match grade barrels. The reality is you " break in the throat" A reamer cuts an angle on the lands going from the groove to the top of the lands. Looking at it with a borescope it looks like you took a file to it. It looks that rough. Every reamer leaves a different surface finish. All chambers to some extend have a wire edge on the trailing side of the land. Dull reamers will roll metal into the grooves instead of a clean cut. I've seen it all at one time or another and I've seen some ugly throats that will never shot well. Until the throat is smoothed by firing or other means there will be jacket material stripped from the sides of the bullet. This accelerates copper fouling and is detrimental to accuracy.
As for me, I'll keep my barrels clean. Your mileage may vary.
If you have to break a barrel in you need a better quality barrel. We pay a lot of money to get a lapped uniform finsh in match grade barrels. The reality is you " break in the throat" A reamer cuts an angle on the lands going from the groove to the top of the lands. Looking at it with a borescope it looks like you took a file to it. It looks that rough. Every reamer leaves a different surface finish. All chambers to some extend have a wire edge on the trailing side of the land. Dull reamers will roll metal into the grooves instead of a clean cut. I've seen it all at one time or another and I've seen some ugly throats that will never shot well. Until the throat is smoothed by firing or other means there will be jacket material stripped from the sides of the bullet. This accelerates copper fouling and is detrimental to accuracy.
As for me, I'll keep my barrels clean. Your mileage may vary.
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