- Thread starter Jman415
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- tikka t3 breaking in
To be quite honest in the past, I might have broke in new custom barrels (kreiger, Obermeyer, etc) by shooting and cleaning, looking at the patches until I observed reduced fouling and called it good. Picked up a Tikka T3 lite stainless in 270 wsm last year strictly for hunting. Honestly with this rifle, I just picked up a few boxes of different types of ammo, decided which I thought was the most accurate, (which was pretty hard since the all shot around 1/2moa) zeroed it and called it good.
I am asking seriously; do you think no one else has ever discussed these things before on here?
I would be more concerned about that cleaning kit. Might want to do a little research here about that, you will do more damage to the barrel with Cleaning Kit than shooting it. Just don't get the barrel hot.
Clean it then go shoot it
Always clean a new rifle before shooting it. That's all the break-in you need.
Use a bore guide and clean breach to muzzle.
Just to echo everyone else, clean to get rid of any crap from the factory and shoot!
I've got 4 tikkas, two i broke in (before i knew any better) and the last two i just shot right from the box...all shoot 1/2moa when i do my bit
I've got 4 tikkas, two i broke in (before i knew any better) and the last two i just shot right from the box...all shoot 1/2moa when i do my bit
if you have just the one rifle, you dont need anything fancy. A good Hoppes 9 kit from Walmart will get the job done. If you want something that will last forever, a one piece stainless rod from Pro-shot, some 2" patches and the correct jags and you will be set.
So for the new rifle, give it a good cleaning before you sight in. This will get rid of all the protectant and any debris that collected from the shipping box.
Shoot enough to get on paper (which will also foul the barrel enough to start sighting in. You do not want to sight in cold bore after a cleaning, as the barrel still has lubricant and protectant. This may cause larger groups initially and you dont want to be "chasing your zero"; after around 3-5 shots you can start sighting in. If you are sighting right before a hunt, get it where you want it, then do not clean it, nor tweak the scope, nor tighten anything. Messing with action screws, scope rings, or cleaning can effect your cold bore zero.
If you want to check your cold bore shot, wait until another day and then put 3 down range. If you are happy, then pack it up ready for the hunt. I am not gonna get into the whole 3 vs 5 vs 10 round accuracy bullshit, as the Tikka is accurate and it only holds 3 in the mag. If a shooter can not hit a deer in three shots, then the deer won that round.
Have fun and be safe.
So for the new rifle, give it a good cleaning before you sight in. This will get rid of all the protectant and any debris that collected from the shipping box.
Shoot enough to get on paper (which will also foul the barrel enough to start sighting in. You do not want to sight in cold bore after a cleaning, as the barrel still has lubricant and protectant. This may cause larger groups initially and you dont want to be "chasing your zero"; after around 3-5 shots you can start sighting in. If you are sighting right before a hunt, get it where you want it, then do not clean it, nor tweak the scope, nor tighten anything. Messing with action screws, scope rings, or cleaning can effect your cold bore zero.
If you want to check your cold bore shot, wait until another day and then put 3 down range. If you are happy, then pack it up ready for the hunt. I am not gonna get into the whole 3 vs 5 vs 10 round accuracy bullshit, as the Tikka is accurate and it only holds 3 in the mag. If a shooter can not hit a deer in three shots, then the deer won that round.
Have fun and be safe.
go to the Bore Tech website. They have a wealth of free information and downloadsAlways just use a few patches until clean (about 5, then a patch with 2-3 dropns of Kranoil. After that just clean the chamber and lube the back sidem of the bolt lugs with grease, especially if you're shooting suppressed. Here in the desert southwest rust has never been an issue with any of my weapons!
Why does shooting suppressed make this so?
