I have a Rem. 700 PSS in 308 that I purchased used. I have no idea of the total round count other than the 3-400 I have shot through it. The Oal length to the lands is over 3 inches with a barnes 175gn hpbt. The gun is stock it has the factory floor plate. Looking for opinions about barrel replacement, trueing the action and going with a bottom metal that accepts magazines vs going to one of the newer chassis style guns like the rpr or tikka t3.
Gunsmithing Build my 700 pss or buy a chassis gun?
- Thread starter adamford150
- Start date
How does it shoot? Do YOU think it needs trued? Are you switching calibers?
You can get a Grayboe Renegade stock for $329 or a Ridgeback stock for $499 from Red Hawk Rifles. They have a discount for bottom metal when purchased with a stock.
If you want a new barrel, you can buy a Prefit from a few manufacturers like Criterion.
You can get a Grayboe Renegade stock for $329 or a Ridgeback stock for $499 from Red Hawk Rifles. They have a discount for bottom metal when purchased with a stock.
If you want a new barrel, you can buy a Prefit from a few manufacturers like Criterion.
With hand loads .015 off the lands I have gotten 1/2”- 3/4” groups at 100 and 2” or less at 200(steel target). I changed jobs and don’t have as much free time as I did before to reload. With the Barnes match burner I believe it was 3.015 oal. Even my 168 smk load is 2.9x oal, I can’t remember exactly I don’t have my log book in front of me. But neither would fit into a magazine. I was just considering the cost, if I’m going to replace the barrel would I want to go ahead and true the action?
D
Deleted member 113831
Guest
Some people would say yes, but if it is already shooting as is, what is the gain? You can spend another $300-$400 just to say it's trued?
Last edited by a moderator:
Plus 1 to @Skookum.... If it's shooting 1/2 to 3/4 youre not likely to gain much from truing. Mainly better consistency (maybe it shoots slightly 1/2 more often than 3/4).
But the advantages of a chassis/stock short term may be worth it. Get a KRG Bravo or other stock that accepts AICS mags (without binder plate) and you will be able to load to 2.925+ and still fit in magazine.
After the barrel stops shooting, then replacements will be your next step along with possibly truing, but I don't know of truing produces as much improvement as simply getting a custom barrel (like a prefit or good Smith installed barrel).
If going with a Smith traditional barrel, they might true things up for you for a few extra bucks just because it's part of their process. But I'm becoming a big fan of prefit Remage style barrels. Great value for both your time and future barrel swaps.
But the advantages of a chassis/stock short term may be worth it. Get a KRG Bravo or other stock that accepts AICS mags (without binder plate) and you will be able to load to 2.925+ and still fit in magazine.
After the barrel stops shooting, then replacements will be your next step along with possibly truing, but I don't know of truing produces as much improvement as simply getting a custom barrel (like a prefit or good Smith installed barrel).
If going with a Smith traditional barrel, they might true things up for you for a few extra bucks just because it's part of their process. But I'm becoming a big fan of prefit Remage style barrels. Great value for both your time and future barrel swaps.
Thanks for your input.
Everyone so far is in agreement prefit Barrel and new stock over a ruger precision.
I don’t know about that, I’ve been reading that the rprs can be had for under 700, that’s hard to shake a stick at. I have all the tools and parts and so on to do my own prefits so I’m not here to say not to put a new barrel on. Just that both routes are attractive and if I could find one of those super cheap rprs around me I would probably have one of them too.
@spife7980 has a good point that RPRs can be found very cheap at times. 6mms are 750-800 around me occasionally. But with that you will still be in a factory barrel but with a decent chassis. If it groups 3/4 or better consistently, it's a great factory barrel.
For 800-1000, you could get a new stock and rebarrel to to Remage style. Any 308 bolt face cartridge (308, 6.5CM, 6CM, 260 etc) is within your reach with a barrel swap at home. Criterion prefits are about 400 plus barrel nut ($70ish) and 100 more for threading. KRG and the new MDT spinoff chassis are $400. And you'll have a custom barrel and chassis for under 1k.
With RPR, you'll be hoping it shoots well out of box so that you don't have to buy a barrel right away. Just means a chance that you will be 1200-1500 into the RPR after a rebarrel. Not a certainty but a chance.
I don't think we are going to have the right answer for you on this one. It's not that RPRs are bad, it's that any new rifle can shoot poorly. With factory barrels, a good one is anything under 1 MOA but a great one holds sub < .75 frequently. Ive built more Howas (6) than RPRs (1), but both shot well. The Howas have been very consistent at .5-.75" or better rifles after tuning and handloads. The Ruger a as about the same between .75 and 1moa consistently.
With custom barrels it's pretty normal to capable of substantially better than .75; my Criterion shoots better than shoot half moa with stunning regularity. My Howa could shoot 1/2s too but just not as often.
Thanks again, I think you have answered my question. I can spend the money on the gun I have and possibly get 1/2 moa if I do my part. Or buy another gun and hope I get 3/4.
Looks like the new barrel and stock are the answer. I really appreciate the help. This will also allow me to get the stock and keep hand loading and get the barrel when I’m tired of loading one bullet at a time.
