"Length of pull" is just that. It is the distance from your shoulder to the trigger. It is just personal preference and how the stick feels to you. Just go by the trial and error and correction method until it all feels the best to you... then go shoot. That is all.
The "rule of thumb" for length of pull is to place the rifle/shotgun on your shooting forearm (arm extended with palm up), place the finger on the trigger and see if the butt snuggles against the upright portion of the upper arm just above the elbow. The butt should lay in the crook of the arm just touching the upper arm. This is considered your personal "length of pull".
The quick and easy way is to place the butt of your stock into your elbow with your forearm extending toward the trigger guard. If the trigger bisects the first joint on your index finger you are g2g. If you are reaching, take a spacer out. If it bisects down toward the middle of your index finger put a spacer in.
Second method: Generally LOP is measured from trigger shoe to butt plate. You could then have someone measure you from the first joint in the index finger to the elbow joint and match the LOP to that measurement.
Both methods work fine, but these are both general rules. You will have to fine tune if it feels wrong.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: z71rat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"Length of pull" is just that. It is the distance from your shoulder to the trigger. It is just personal preference and how the stick feels to you. Just go by the trial and error and correction method until it all feels the best to you... then go shoot. That is all.
I was a little slow in posting. 19Scout beat me. I do want to point out that "distance from shoulder to trigger" is harder to measure and is not the generally accepted way. If you can get behind the rifle and measure from shoulder to trigger, great. Otherwise use one of the two methods described by scout and I.
With all due respect... I understand exactly what you are saying, and I do agree, if that was what actually felt best to the shooter. I am not one of those that cares for the feel of what is supposed to be my "personal length of pull".
I actually prefer a slightly longer length of pull, simply because of how my hand and finger orient themselves when shooting. Which is the main reason for using some of the thicker recoil pads to achieve this length.
So I still abide by the opinion of what feels best to the shooter, will often make the shooter more relaxed and confident of their shot. This is just my $0.02 worth...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MinorDamage</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Both methods work fine, but these are both general rules. You will have to fine tune if it feels wrong. </div></div>
I agree with you. The above is in my first post. Fine tuning is a necessity. It was not a personal attack...It is just harder to get a defined measurement from shoulder to trigger in the shooting position than it is to get a measurement from a couple more well defined points.
Those measurements will get you in the neighborhood, but you will have to tune it to yourself from there. So, yep, I completely agree with you on that part.
I promise it was not a retalitory strike on my part. I do agree completely with having good solid points of reference to start from... without a doubt. I was just trying to let him know the more comfortable he makes his shooting, the better off his shooting will be.
We are all obviously on the same page trying our best to share great information to answer an innocent question... just different ways of saying the same thing. It is all good from my end. LOL!!
Thanks for the help. I hate asking what turns out to be simple questions, but from reading other threads there is a lot of small subtle things that I didn't know about. Savage sent 2 cheek pieces for use on the Choate stock, and one or the other has to be used. I wanted to check in here since they sent spacers- I may have to use them and I wanted to get it right.
The cheek pieces are a WHOLE different story. We can dig into the details with that too... here we go.
Get into position behind the rifle. Close your eyes, get a good solid hold that feels good. Relax and breath a few times, then open your eye and see what kind of sight picture you have through your scope. If it isn't a good sight picture, determine if you are too high or too low and adjust the cheek piece accordingly.
You may even find that neither of the cheek pieces gives you the proper sight picture. You can either change out your scope rings, or add a stock pack or some sort of riser. Your call.
I installed the taller cheek piece. I first installed the lower one but my head was too low. I have a Farrell 20moa base, low Seekin's rings and a 6.5-20x44 Vortex Viper. The literature that came with the rifle said the taller cheek piece was for higher mounted optics, but apparently not in my case.
I will check the LOP using the crook of my elbow to trigger method to see how close it is with no spacer.
The cheekpieces have to be used to get a sight picture with a scope. I was wondering if a spacer had to be installed.