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Can someone with a MPA chassis help me out with an adjustment test??

tsu45

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Minuteman
May 15, 2011
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I'm looking for a stock that I can quickly (during a timed stage) drop the comb on for weak side shooting, but still use the strong side eye. MPA with the adjustment knob looks like it has the highest potential so far and I like the rest of the features in the stock.

Does someone with an MPA mind testing that?
 
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So weak side shooting with strong side eye? I'll try to remember to see if that's possible tonight.

Yep. I'm blind in one eye, as in it's all black blind. Looking for a chassis where the cheekpiece expedientdly drops low enough without tools that I can somewhat quickly make the transition. Quickly enough that I can at least get a couple weak side shots off instead of forfeiting them all.

Tried it on a RPR and since the false buffer tube the stock is mounted on is straight inline with the action, the cheekpiece can't go low enough.
 
Sorry if you'd already considered/have this, but perhaps also getting higher scope rings/mount would help you out too, lifting the scope up.

I will say though that dropping the cheekpiece on an MPA isn't super quick. It's easy, but it's not fast enough for me to want to try it on a timed stage. The AI chassis and the KRG chassis are much faster in this regard.
 
Sorry if you'd already considered/have this, but perhaps also getting higher scope rings/mount would help you out too, lifting the scope up.

I will say though that dropping the cheekpiece on an MPA isn't super quick. It's easy, but it's not fast enough for me to want to try it on a timed stage. The AI chassis and the KRG chassis are much faster in this regard.

Yes it definitely does and I have advised some people in similar situations that are mostly just hunting and/or just don't shoot a lot to do that very thing if their strongside eye is what is effected.I still need to be able to adjust the comb quickly and make the transition though for what I want to do and at this point I'm pretty much adapted to get lined back up with what was once my weakside.That's why I'm going down the path of researching the one that can drop the most below the boreline, as a first solution anyways, to minimize that as much as possible. A lot of the chassis already have considerable scope height over bore, not that it matters once you start dialing data for every shot, but it will look and probably feel tippy with that much height on something like an RPR that has zero ability to go below the boreline.

Are you referencing the AT or the AX chassis? What I found for the AT are some replacement round adjustment knobs that while tooless, don't look too quick. The AX has been harder to find pics of other than on the dealers sites and not much, that I have found anyways, discussion/review of the adjustment. If you have firsthand knowledge or link to more info on the actual function of the adjustment I'd like to hear it cause I definitely wouldn't mind an AT being the solution. I'll check out the KRG.
 
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Yes it definitely does and I have advised some people in similar situations that are mostly just hunting and/or just don't shoot a lot to do that very thing if their strongside eye is what is effected.I still need to be able to adjust the comb quickly and make the transition though for what I want to do and at this point I'm pretty much adapted to get lined back up with what was once my weakside.That's why I'm going down the path of researching the one that can drop the most below the boreline, as a first solution anyways, to minimize that as much as possible. A lot of the chassis already have considerable scope height over bore, not that it matters once you start dialing data for every shot, but it will look and probably feel tippy with that much height on something like an RPR that has zero ability to go below the boreline.

Are you referencing the AT or the AX chassis? What I found for the AT are some replacement round adjustment knobs that while tooless, don't look too quick. The AX has been harder to find pics of other than on the dealers sites and not much, that I have found anyways, discussion/review of the adjustment. If you have firsthand knowledge or link to more info on the actual function of the adjustment I'd like to hear it cause I definitely wouldn't mind an AT being the solution. I'll check out the KRG.


Gotchya, okay.
Well here's a video of a guy using an AI chassis, it's a pretty popular mod to replace the cheekrest riser allen screws with thumb screws to allow for faster adjustments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY2qzfRJXQI

The KRG cheek rest works off of the same principle. However, now that I look at both, it seems the cheek piece themselves aren't below the bore line.

To get below the bore line, I think the best bet would be an XLR chassis or an Orias chassis, which place the stock below the bore line. The XLR stock can be adjusted pretty dang low, but it does not adjust fast at all. However, it iscompatable with AR15 stocks, so if you use say a Luth-AR stock in combination with an XLR chassis thatwould work well I think. Same goes for the Orias chassis which can also use AR15 stocks.
 
Gotchya, okay.
Well here's a video of a guy using an AI chassis, it's a pretty popular mod to replace the cheekrest riser allen screws with thumb screws to allow for faster adjustments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY2qzfRJXQI

The KRG cheek rest works off of the same principle. However, now that I look at both, it seems the cheek piece themselves aren't below the bore line.

To get below the bore line, I think the best bet would be an XLR chassis or an Orias chassis, which place the stock below the bore line. The XLR stock can be adjusted pretty dang low, but it does not adjust fast at all. However, it iscompatable with AR15 stocks, so if you use say a Luth-AR stock in combination with an XLR chassis thatwould work well I think. Same goes for the Orias chassis which can also use AR15 stocks.

I like the way he uses the spacer on the cheek rest studs so it drops in to the the same height every time. Taking it completely off is an option for me shooting weakside.
 
Taking it completely off is an option for me shooting weakside.

That was my thought. My adjustable cheek piece on my Manners T2A has a spacer that I use to have it hit a repeatable height after removing for cleaning. If you wanted to run weakside on a stage you could just pre-loosen the allen screw and shoot strong side, then pull off the entire cheek piece and shoot weak side strong eye.