So one of my thread cans keeps unscrewing itself after about 100 rounds. Any Ideas how to keep it tight but still keeping the option of removing it every blue moon to use on something other. Thanks
Suppressors Can Unscrewing itself
- Thread starter jheat308
- Start date
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Will the teflon tape not burn off? I dont get the can cherry red but it will warm up pretty nice.
Will the teflon tape not burn off? I dont get the can cherry red but it will warm up pretty nice.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Most everyone has this same issue. Just keep an eye on it every once in a while. Carry a welders glove in your bag. I use nickel anti-seize on the threads so it won't freeze up when I'm ready to take it off. Seems to help in keeping it from backing off as much too.
Most everyone has this same issue. Just keep an eye on it every once in a while. Carry a welders glove in your bag. I use nickel anti-seize on the threads so it won't freeze up when I'm ready to take it off. Seems to help in keeping it from backing off as much too.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
You can use a Nord Lock washer but it will be on very tight and hard to get off.
You can use a Nord Lock washer but it will be on very tight and hard to get off.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Thanks Ill try the nickel anti seize and if that dont cut it ill go to the nord lock.
Thanks Ill try the nickel anti seize and if that dont cut it ill go to the nord lock.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike.
DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike. </div></div>
Figure out what a Nord Lock washer is then understand they work find on silenced firearms.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike. </div></div>
Figure out what a Nord Lock washer is then understand they work find on silenced firearms.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NOMAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Teflon Tape will be your hero!!
</div></div>
Will it not burn off?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NOMAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Teflon Tape will be your hero!!
</div></div>
Will it not burn off?
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Nord lock washers are downright surprising the first time you use them... FWIW I am comfortable using them on my rifles... but i usually check alignment before trusting its true.
Nord lock washers are downright surprising the first time you use them... FWIW I am comfortable using them on my rifles... but i usually check alignment before trusting its true.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David Hineline</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike. </div></div>
Figure out what a Nord Lock washer is then understand they work find on silenced firearms. </div></div>
Oh really? When your overpriced washer causes you a baffle strike from miss alignment dont get to upset with yourself. No washer is made perfectly, they all have defects somewhere. I mic AAC, SF, KAC, and a few other manufacturers shim kits and they were all off, all the way around the washer the measurements where NOT consistant.
Now by using a washer you are asking for the same result. If they do not seat evenly on the shoulder of your rifle, to replicate the can seating directly to the shoulder of the barrel, misalignment of the can and your taking some baffles with you on your first shot.
I know what a Nord Lock washer is, thanks. Best thing to do is get some teflon tape, a couple wraps will last you a shooting session at the range. I personally only use it when going to a class or match in which you dont have time to check it often or because its just to damn hot to touch at any given time.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David Hineline</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DO NOT use any sort of lock washer on a thread on can! You are asking for a baffle strike. </div></div>
Figure out what a Nord Lock washer is then understand they work find on silenced firearms. </div></div>
Oh really? When your overpriced washer causes you a baffle strike from miss alignment dont get to upset with yourself. No washer is made perfectly, they all have defects somewhere. I mic AAC, SF, KAC, and a few other manufacturers shim kits and they were all off, all the way around the washer the measurements where NOT consistant.
Now by using a washer you are asking for the same result. If they do not seat evenly on the shoulder of your rifle, to replicate the can seating directly to the shoulder of the barrel, misalignment of the can and your taking some baffles with you on your first shot.
I know what a Nord Lock washer is, thanks. Best thing to do is get some teflon tape, a couple wraps will last you a shooting session at the range. I personally only use it when going to a class or match in which you dont have time to check it often or because its just to damn hot to touch at any given time.
G
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Re: Can Unscrewing itself
A Griptastic can cover may be your friend. I run them on bolts as well as Full Auto's, no issues to date.
http://www.subguns.org/products/covers/
A Griptastic can cover may be your friend. I run them on bolts as well as Full Auto's, no issues to date.
http://www.subguns.org/products/covers/
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
I found Permatex Teflon Paste to work pretty damn good.
The heat will make it harden somewhat ,but still be able to unscrew it if you need to and also protects threads.
a small tube is only a couple bucks at the hardware store
I found Permatex Teflon Paste to work pretty damn good.
The heat will make it harden somewhat ,but still be able to unscrew it if you need to and also protects threads.
a small tube is only a couple bucks at the hardware store
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Quite a but if information being offered up, but I have questions first. Basic info.....
1. What can, what material?
2. What barrel, who threaded?
3. What host Rifle, Pistol?
4. Full auto, fast fire, slow semi, slow bolt?
5. What caliber?
Pistol, aluminum entry with worn threads, a cheap, thin barrel and poor shoulder, shot fast semi?
Teflon Tape : Good idea too....pistols mostly. Full Auto?...read below.
LockTite: Nope.
Permatex Teflon Paste: Nope, you need the tape structure to work properly for alignment.
Nord Washers : .556 only. They are sold in sets. Never use a "split set". Expensive and su-friggin-perb. Some take those very same lock washers, place them under pressure between two flats plates in a special press and measured. They are always superb, perfect, MUCH better than most shoulder work. Just a COUPLE of clicks and you are perfect. 1,000s can kits sold and fielded for decades, strikes not an issue as in zip.
Shim Kits: Yes, they are probably all off, but that is not a bad things, they are for FLASH HIDER indexing. Over the flash hider designs can be crap for precision work. Most are just no friggin good, yes yes some require 5 seconds to attach before spraying down. But know this.... they ALL use progressive (megaphone) can bores and you will NOT get a strike with the factory washers/shim....under the flash hiders provided by the factory.
Looking for some data....
Quite a but if information being offered up, but I have questions first. Basic info.....
1. What can, what material?
2. What barrel, who threaded?
3. What host Rifle, Pistol?
4. Full auto, fast fire, slow semi, slow bolt?
5. What caliber?
Pistol, aluminum entry with worn threads, a cheap, thin barrel and poor shoulder, shot fast semi?
Teflon Tape : Good idea too....pistols mostly. Full Auto?...read below.
LockTite: Nope.
Permatex Teflon Paste: Nope, you need the tape structure to work properly for alignment.
Nord Washers : .556 only. They are sold in sets. Never use a "split set". Expensive and su-friggin-perb. Some take those very same lock washers, place them under pressure between two flats plates in a special press and measured. They are always superb, perfect, MUCH better than most shoulder work. Just a COUPLE of clicks and you are perfect. 1,000s can kits sold and fielded for decades, strikes not an issue as in zip.
Shim Kits: Yes, they are probably all off, but that is not a bad things, they are for FLASH HIDER indexing. Over the flash hider designs can be crap for precision work. Most are just no friggin good, yes yes some require 5 seconds to attach before spraying down. But know this.... they ALL use progressive (megaphone) can bores and you will NOT get a strike with the factory washers/shim....under the flash hiders provided by the factory.
Looking for some data....
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Quite a but if information being offered up, but I have questions first. Basic info.....
1. What can, what material?
2. What barrel, who threaded?
3. What host Rifle, Pistol?
4. Full auto, fast fire, slow semi, slow bolt?
5. What caliber?
Pistol, aluminum entry with worn threads, a cheap, thin barrel and poor shoulder, shot fast semi?
Teflon Tape : Good idea too....pistols mostly. Full Auto?...read below.
LockTite: Nope.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Permatex Teflon Paste: Nope, you need the tape structure to work properly for alignment. </span>
Nord Washers : .556 only. They are sold in sets. Never use a "split set". Expensive and su-friggin-perb. Some take those very same lock washers, place them under pressure between two flats plates in a special press and measured. They are always superb, perfect, MUCH better than most shoulder work. Just a COUPLE of clicks and you are perfect. 1,000s can kits sold and fielded for decades, strikes not an issue as in zip.
Shim Kits: Yes, they are probably all off, but that is not a bad things, they are for FLASH HIDER indexing. Over the flash hider designs can be crap for precision work. Most are just no friggin good, yes yes some require 5 seconds to attach before spraying down. But know this.... they ALL use progressive (megaphone) can bores and you will NOT get a strike with the factory washers/shim....under the flash hiders provided by the factory.
Looking for some data....
</div></div>
Question about the paste issue above & why use tape instead ??
Since barrel shoulder is ( or let me re-phrase this " should be machined " ) ,trued and squared with bore and suppressor face ?
Why is further alignment needed ??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Quite a but if information being offered up, but I have questions first. Basic info.....
1. What can, what material?
2. What barrel, who threaded?
3. What host Rifle, Pistol?
4. Full auto, fast fire, slow semi, slow bolt?
5. What caliber?
Pistol, aluminum entry with worn threads, a cheap, thin barrel and poor shoulder, shot fast semi?
Teflon Tape : Good idea too....pistols mostly. Full Auto?...read below.
LockTite: Nope.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Permatex Teflon Paste: Nope, you need the tape structure to work properly for alignment. </span>
Nord Washers : .556 only. They are sold in sets. Never use a "split set". Expensive and su-friggin-perb. Some take those very same lock washers, place them under pressure between two flats plates in a special press and measured. They are always superb, perfect, MUCH better than most shoulder work. Just a COUPLE of clicks and you are perfect. 1,000s can kits sold and fielded for decades, strikes not an issue as in zip.
Shim Kits: Yes, they are probably all off, but that is not a bad things, they are for FLASH HIDER indexing. Over the flash hider designs can be crap for precision work. Most are just no friggin good, yes yes some require 5 seconds to attach before spraying down. But know this.... they ALL use progressive (megaphone) can bores and you will NOT get a strike with the factory washers/shim....under the flash hiders provided by the factory.
Looking for some data....
</div></div>
Question about the paste issue above & why use tape instead ??
Since barrel shoulder is ( or let me re-phrase this " should be machined " ) ,trued and squared with bore and suppressor face ?
Why is further alignment needed ??
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
cool video on how nord lock washers work. I had no idea what they were.
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Nord lock portion starts at 4:32
cool video on how nord lock washers work. I had no idea what they were.
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mgwmuZuJ02I"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mgwmuZuJ02I" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Nord lock portion starts at 4:32
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Morgan,
No problem. The paste is an excellent solution for some can issues, but not the issue suggested by the operator. In his case, we first need him/her to answer the questions as none of us know enough. But, I suspect that we have either barrel or can threads out of spec and/or a poor shoulder as well. In that case, loose threads would be the case and we actually can "firm" them up by the base mass of the teflon tape (quite uniform with the tape and wholly absent with the paste). His problem is looseness not the need to make things looser. We would actually use the tape only for its ability to handle the heat and uniformity. You, yourself, came to realize this in your question. True, gauged(!) threads and a good shoulder would require none of this for a "loose" problem.
Wasp, nice vid. There is actually big science with Nords and the purchase of them (sourcing) is something some shops take very seriously. Folks that need them, know what they can do and use them with great success. What ails the person that started this thread is resolved by Nords but honestly, unless he is shooting high volume fire, he has a whole host of different issue. We need data.
Morgan,
No problem. The paste is an excellent solution for some can issues, but not the issue suggested by the operator. In his case, we first need him/her to answer the questions as none of us know enough. But, I suspect that we have either barrel or can threads out of spec and/or a poor shoulder as well. In that case, loose threads would be the case and we actually can "firm" them up by the base mass of the teflon tape (quite uniform with the tape and wholly absent with the paste). His problem is looseness not the need to make things looser. We would actually use the tape only for its ability to handle the heat and uniformity. You, yourself, came to realize this in your question. True, gauged(!) threads and a good shoulder would require none of this for a "loose" problem.
Wasp, nice vid. There is actually big science with Nords and the purchase of them (sourcing) is something some shops take very seriously. Folks that need them, know what they can do and use them with great success. What ails the person that started this thread is resolved by Nords but honestly, unless he is shooting high volume fire, he has a whole host of different issue. We need data.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Nord lock washers are made very well...I have used them on some of the 5.56 cans you need a strap wrech to get them off the will not mess with your alignment.
Just dont use a crush washer!!!
Nord lock washers are made very well...I have used them on some of the 5.56 cans you need a strap wrech to get them off the will not mess with your alignment.
Just dont use a crush washer!!!
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Because with good gauged threads and a proper shoulder, they are not required for anything except .223 FA.
Because with good gauged threads and a proper shoulder, they are not required for anything except .223 FA.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
I've heard several manufacturers state that Nord-locks are not perfect. Robert Silvers said that at one point after himself using them for a period of time, and Phil Dater of Gemtech said the same, going so far as to tell me he had a bag he'd give me if I wanted them as they were junk to him. Nord-locks are stamped/coined, and the concept of two perfectly square stamped parts seems a bit optimistic- more so than potential for square shims punched out of shim stock.
I haven't measured them, but have used them with 5.56 suppressors that were bored .311 at the front cap and they worked find- of course most suppressors have tighter bores than that- some brands as tight as .25", while most 5.56 cans are probably .285" at the muzzle.
What I did notice was that the Nord lock doesn't "Grab" until the suppressor is tightened, and THEN LOOSENED.
This implies that if an end user tightened his can, and began firing, at some point the can would actually loosen slightly. Then at some point very close to that, the cam surfaces of the nordlock would engage and lock up the assembly again.
Between tight and tight again, there is a point were the suppressor could technically be hanging loose and not in perpendicular.
That of course would be operator error for not tightening and then "loosening" the suppressor to engage the cam lock surfaces of the nord lock washer pair, but very probably would describe a potentially possible, temporary situation of poor alignment.
I've heard several manufacturers state that Nord-locks are not perfect. Robert Silvers said that at one point after himself using them for a period of time, and Phil Dater of Gemtech said the same, going so far as to tell me he had a bag he'd give me if I wanted them as they were junk to him. Nord-locks are stamped/coined, and the concept of two perfectly square stamped parts seems a bit optimistic- more so than potential for square shims punched out of shim stock.
I haven't measured them, but have used them with 5.56 suppressors that were bored .311 at the front cap and they worked find- of course most suppressors have tighter bores than that- some brands as tight as .25", while most 5.56 cans are probably .285" at the muzzle.
What I did notice was that the Nord lock doesn't "Grab" until the suppressor is tightened, and THEN LOOSENED.
This implies that if an end user tightened his can, and began firing, at some point the can would actually loosen slightly. Then at some point very close to that, the cam surfaces of the nordlock would engage and lock up the assembly again.
Between tight and tight again, there is a point were the suppressor could technically be hanging loose and not in perpendicular.
That of course would be operator error for not tightening and then "loosening" the suppressor to engage the cam lock surfaces of the nord lock washer pair, but very probably would describe a potentially possible, temporary situation of poor alignment.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Its where you buy them. There are a number of sources that sell imported and perfectly matched, individually sold "sets'. A bag of them? Well, if its from Phil, junk would be priced about right.
I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, place and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly." I know of no instance where a re-tightening is required. Just the opposite, a true tightened set is immediately rock solid. The major concern is that they hold too well, too tightly and many do not realize that the micro groves do not do damage to either side of the held surfaces.
If your needs are to have your can tight, right and ready...Nords. Now Nords create baffle strikes......
Its where you buy them. There are a number of sources that sell imported and perfectly matched, individually sold "sets'. A bag of them? Well, if its from Phil, junk would be priced about right.
I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, place and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly." I know of no instance where a re-tightening is required. Just the opposite, a true tightened set is immediately rock solid. The major concern is that they hold too well, too tightly and many do not realize that the micro groves do not do damage to either side of the held surfaces.
If your needs are to have your can tight, right and ready...Nords. Now Nords create baffle strikes......
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its where you buy them. There are a number of sources that sell imported and perfectly matched, individually sold "sets'. A bag of them? Well, if its from Phil, junk would be priced about right.
<span style="color: #FF0000">I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized</span>, place and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly." I know of no instance where a re-tightening is required. Just the opposite, a true tightened set is immediately rock solid. The major concern is that they hold too well, too tightly and many do not realize that the micro groves do not do damage to either side of the held surfaces.
If your needs are to have your can tight, right and ready...Nords. Now Nords create baffle strikes......
</div></div>
In red pretty much sums it up, you admit that you have never seen one that was properly sized.
You cant speak for every account of using a Nord lock washer. There are probably thousands of people out there that have used them. Some with no issues and some people having issues. I have seen them in use on firearms and they were not to the exacting tolerances that they had claimed to be.
So to the guys looking for a solution. You can't take mine or rolling thunder's words for gospel. You can get what you think is safest for your application given the suggestions you see here.
I would try a less obtrusive means to securing your can. Try the teflon tape, then go on to a paste. But do not get anything that is a thread locking paste, you will regret that!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its where you buy them. There are a number of sources that sell imported and perfectly matched, individually sold "sets'. A bag of them? Well, if its from Phil, junk would be priced about right.
<span style="color: #FF0000">I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized</span>, place and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly." I know of no instance where a re-tightening is required. Just the opposite, a true tightened set is immediately rock solid. The major concern is that they hold too well, too tightly and many do not realize that the micro groves do not do damage to either side of the held surfaces.
If your needs are to have your can tight, right and ready...Nords. Now Nords create baffle strikes......
</div></div>
In red pretty much sums it up, you admit that you have never seen one that was properly sized.
You cant speak for every account of using a Nord lock washer. There are probably thousands of people out there that have used them. Some with no issues and some people having issues. I have seen them in use on firearms and they were not to the exacting tolerances that they had claimed to be.
So to the guys looking for a solution. You can't take mine or rolling thunder's words for gospel. You can get what you think is safest for your application given the suggestions you see here.
I would try a less obtrusive means to securing your can. Try the teflon tape, then go on to a paste. But do not get anything that is a thread locking paste, you will regret that!
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, placed and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly."
I am, however, now becoming increasingly aware of the limitations of some peoples reading abilities.
I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, placed and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly."
I am, however, now becoming increasingly aware of the limitations of some peoples reading abilities.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
It would seem to me a Nord Lock washer is theoreticly just a " Band Aid "
and as stated above there are some very cheap ones on the market .. I have seen Quality Nords and cheap copies , I have used them on Oilfield equipment where parts are under severe vibration ...ie..Mud Shaker Screens ,Pipe Tong Dies ,Slip Dies .etc.... and holding vital components together that would cause a catastrophic failure should bolts loosen or fall out completely.... I would only buy/use ones that are sold by a dealer that could produce the MDS/Heat Treat # on them ,Like KAR Products or FASTENALL
If possible why not send off to someone like GAP for a re-thread ??
I had to do this on my .308 after local gunsmith got mine crooked and I had baffle strikes....
It would seem to me a Nord Lock washer is theoreticly just a " Band Aid "
and as stated above there are some very cheap ones on the market .. I have seen Quality Nords and cheap copies , I have used them on Oilfield equipment where parts are under severe vibration ...ie..Mud Shaker Screens ,Pipe Tong Dies ,Slip Dies .etc.... and holding vital components together that would cause a catastrophic failure should bolts loosen or fall out completely.... I would only buy/use ones that are sold by a dealer that could produce the MDS/Heat Treat # on them ,Like KAR Products or FASTENALL
If possible why not send off to someone like GAP for a re-thread ??
I had to do this on my .308 after local gunsmith got mine crooked and I had baffle strikes....
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, placed and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly."
I am, however, now becoming increasingly aware of the limitations of some peoples reading abilities.
</div></div>
Sometimes it stings when others disagree with you? I stated an opinion and questioned your points made. If you can't answer them that's fine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am aware of no instance where a Nord was properly sized, placed and tightened and it "actually loosened slightly."
I am, however, now becoming increasingly aware of the limitations of some peoples reading abilities.
</div></div>
Sometimes it stings when others disagree with you? I stated an opinion and questioned your points made. If you can't answer them that's fine.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
I am not discrediting Nord Loc. I am saying for this application I would prefer not to trust my suppressor, being a significant investment of time and money, to a washer. That's just my take on it. Why risk it?
I would go for an inspection by a popular gunsmith and have them rethread the barrel. You might be able to have the shoulder corrected or at worst case lose an inch of barrel for new threads to be cut.
I am not discrediting Nord Loc. I am saying for this application I would prefer not to trust my suppressor, being a significant investment of time and money, to a washer. That's just my take on it. Why risk it?
I would go for an inspection by a popular gunsmith and have them rethread the barrel. You might be able to have the shoulder corrected or at worst case lose an inch of barrel for new threads to be cut.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Indeed , I know times are hard for most workin folks and money is tight , but for approx . under $200 get a Reputable Smith to correct the threads & shoulder and save yourself worries of trashing a suppressor...and never look back on the issue
Indeed , I know times are hard for most workin folks and money is tight , but for approx . under $200 get a Reputable Smith to correct the threads & shoulder and save yourself worries of trashing a suppressor...and never look back on the issue
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
So we can stop this cold...
Sets and only matched sets are bought from one particular foreign manufacturer. Those are individually loaded into specially prepared and matched flats. Those are placed in a single press reserved for the measurements. Nords, placed in between those flats are brought up to a particular ft/lbs, those flats are measured and, if they are within spec, a statistical sampling is taken of the purchased lot. When it passes, if it passes, a washer "set" is packed along with each can sent out to those that are expected to see full auto work.
"In this case" as you would say, those very same washer are more likely to be in spec than either the thread(s) or shoulder of the host/can. I have tried to be clear, informative and generous in my description of both the missing data points to actually answer his/her question as well as providing broad spectrum of potential remedies for his issues.
Folks disagree with me all the time, I disagree with some of them. That is life and life is good.
So we can stop this cold...
Sets and only matched sets are bought from one particular foreign manufacturer. Those are individually loaded into specially prepared and matched flats. Those are placed in a single press reserved for the measurements. Nords, placed in between those flats are brought up to a particular ft/lbs, those flats are measured and, if they are within spec, a statistical sampling is taken of the purchased lot. When it passes, if it passes, a washer "set" is packed along with each can sent out to those that are expected to see full auto work.
"In this case" as you would say, those very same washer are more likely to be in spec than either the thread(s) or shoulder of the host/can. I have tried to be clear, informative and generous in my description of both the missing data points to actually answer his/her question as well as providing broad spectrum of potential remedies for his issues.
Folks disagree with me all the time, I disagree with some of them. That is life and life is good.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
Can the Nords be had in certain desired thickness? From the video posted they appear to be pretty thick.
Can the Nords be had in certain desired thickness? From the video posted they appear to be pretty thick.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
The can in question im having issues with is a SWR wolverine in 5.56 on a stock Sig 556. I have put the can on other AR15 and had the same problem. I will look into the Nord might even give it a try but the teflon tape will work with my budget at this time. Has anyone ever had a baffle strike from a Nord? I know we have a diff of opinion on this washer but a pick or first hand account would be nice.
The can in question im having issues with is a SWR wolverine in 5.56 on a stock Sig 556. I have put the can on other AR15 and had the same problem. I will look into the Nord might even give it a try but the teflon tape will work with my budget at this time. Has anyone ever had a baffle strike from a Nord? I know we have a diff of opinion on this washer but a pick or first hand account would be nice.
Re: Can Unscrewing itself
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jheat308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The can in question im having issues with is a SWR wolverine in 5.56 on a stock Sig 556. I have put the can on other AR15 and had the same problem. I will look into the Nord might even give it a try but the teflon tape will work with my budget at this time. Has anyone ever had a baffle strike from a Nord? I know we have a diff of opinion on this washer but a pick or first hand account would be nice. </div></div>
I run NORD locks and a buddy of mine does also......no problems and the cans WILL NEVER come loose. We all know most baffle strikes come from cans backing off right?... seems to me the most important thing in preventing a strike would be making sure the can stays tight.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jheat308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The can in question im having issues with is a SWR wolverine in 5.56 on a stock Sig 556. I have put the can on other AR15 and had the same problem. I will look into the Nord might even give it a try but the teflon tape will work with my budget at this time. Has anyone ever had a baffle strike from a Nord? I know we have a diff of opinion on this washer but a pick or first hand account would be nice. </div></div>
I run NORD locks and a buddy of mine does also......no problems and the cans WILL NEVER come loose. We all know most baffle strikes come from cans backing off right?... seems to me the most important thing in preventing a strike would be making sure the can stays tight.
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