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Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

HOGGHEAD

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 23, 2009
704
1
66
Rivesville, WV
Guys I think I am going to build a new house. I know exactly what I want. And for the most part exactly how I want to build it. However I have a few questions. And I figure some of you guys will have good answers. So here goes.

I am going to build the house 24' X 90". The living area is going to be 24' X 40'. And the garage is going to be 24' X 50'. The dwelling part is going to have 8' walls. And the garage is going to have 10' walls.

There is not going to be a basement. I am going to build the house on a slab of concrete. A slab is just too easy when you live in a wheelchair. And I need everything to be on the same level. So this is why I will be building on a slab.

Now to my question. I will be using 2X6's for the side walls. My question is concerning the bottom plate of my framing. Obviously I need to used wolmanized lumber for the bottom plate. But do I need to double up that bottom plate?? Or is one thickness of wolmanized enough to protect on both the inside and the outside??

The outside sheathing will be T-111 siding. How far above the concrete does the bottom of that T-111 need to be held??

The front porch is also going to be concrete, and the same level as the house floor. And the back will just be dirt(grass). So how far does that T-111 need to be above the ground?? Should I treat the grass area differently from the concrete??

Any other suggestions will be gretly appreciated.

Do I need an aluminum termite barrier underneath the bottom plate on a slab?? Thanks, Tom.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Find yourself a good general contractor. It'll cost a bit more but youll save money in the long run. I should think that in this economy yuo can make a good deal.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Not exactly matching your specs but you get the idea.
typwall1.jpg


typwall2.jpg


**** I am not familiar with WV building codes *****

Any wood in contact with Conc. should be P.T. lumber. Keep your siding 6" above grade. I recommend you pour the porch/ Garage slabs min. 2" lower than the main living slab for water intrusion control. Just pour a ramp for accessibility.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Why not use Hardiboard instead of T1111? The price is close to the same, but the rot resistance means it will be cheaper in the future when you don't have to replace it.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Be sure to prime an paint the bottoms of the T-111 before installing an Spackle the fasteners prior to finish painting. Water will wick up the back if not installed properly. Leave a 1/8 to 3/16 gap between the T-111 an slab for a drip relief, or cut the T-111 ctr to rear on a 45* as a relief.

Any fasteners that touch P/T lumber needs to be S/steel or double galvanized, to prevent corrosion from the new P/T chem's.
A single P/T sole plate is all that's needed, but again don't use std fasteners anywhere your attaching to it. Do your self a favor and either use silicone or sole plate liner under the plate.

Spend the extra money having the home spray foamed, over std insulation, just be 200% sure all the systems are in place that need be, before the spraying. Stop all the thermo transfer you can, an buy the best windows/doors your pocket will allow. When installing same, remember one day they will have to come out, trim an jam accordingly.

Don't ever build to "Code", always build over. Code is bottom of the barrel an you'll pay for it down the road. A house that is to be someones home is a large investment, cry once. Many new an great things to think about before bringing it out of the ground. Making changes after something is built is like burning money, which is never OK no matter who's it is, much less your's.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

If I were to build again I would build the outside walls with decoupled staggered stud walls. Quieter and more energy efficient. Just sayin.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Not a carpenter, but I have been a painter for 28 years now. DONT use T111. That stuff is a painters dream/homeowner nightmare. It won't hold paint unless you backprime every piece and hit all of the edges. Go with the Hardie product that is what I have on my own house and it is a great product. Use drip cap if it is going to rest on a 1x board. Also we used Miratek for all of the window trim and facia. It too is a good product. Holds paint as good as Hardie and easy to use. HTH
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Before and after shots of the house. It was vinyl siding and we went with the Hardie lap siding. Very pleased with the outcome.

dcp_0125.jpg


dcp_0134.jpg
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

You need to consult with a general contractor and a building engineer that are familiar with your local climate, and local building codes.

I am a contractor, and I know my local laws and what products work well in my climate here,but that does not mean they will work well for you.
The best thing you can do if you are serious , is to spend your time and do a lot of research on a local contractor. Ask for some references and check them out, ask at local lumber yards , etc. Find a good contractor and listen to the advise they give you.

If you want to do an owner/builder , there is nothing wrong with that, but you will still be money in the bank to find someone in the area to consult with.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

It is not my intention to be insulting here, but based on your questions, I'd highly recommend you involve a licensed GC. You're going to have many similar questions that a good GC could answer without much thought.

In this economic climate, you can probably find a reputable builder who is willing to bill you by the hour to pull permits, review plans, run interference with the inspectors, and of course answer these types of questions.

We recently did a major addition (added 2,500 sqft), and I did exactly what I described even though I hold a remodel contractors license. I have 20 years in the trades and I'm 100% certain I saved money in the long run by bringing in an expert.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

Ditto! Every area has it's own requirements and specific codes. T-111 is pretty old school and while easy to install (and boring...)Keep in mind that it is merely a sheet of plywood with vertical grooves in it. Often, it's 1/2 inch thick crap that people install: adequate for sheds but not what I want on the exterior of my home.

2"X6" walls are a good idea and will take a thicker batt of insulation than a 2X4 wall. I suggest 16" on center layout of the framing for better strength and aggressive bridge blocking:never any harm in exceeding code as the Gunfighter suggests!

Consider carefully things like "Pest Ban" or equivalent pesticide tubing, communication, data, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, entertainment wiring, ducting, tubing, raceways etc., before you commit to insulating and you'll be happier in the long run.

I definitely concur with those who suggest you discuss your plans with a General Contractor. I might even suggest you discuss this with what most of us in the trades would describe as the singular most annoying and arrogant know-it-all, wannabe, part of the construction process: The Architect...

Hey JR! How are ya?

laugh.gif
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I might even suggest you discuss this with what most of us in the trades would describe as the singular most annoying and arrogant know-it-all, wannabe, part of the construction process: The Architect...

Hey JR! How are ya?

laugh.gif
</div></div>

Fucking termites. Always have some shit falling out of their mouths.
grin.gif


Not doing to bad. I miss my rifles, but hopefully I'll have them back soon. If the withdrawals get any worse, I may need to bum one of your sticks for an afternoon.
wink.gif
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jr81452</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I might even suggest you discuss this with what most of us in the trades would describe as the singular most annoying and arrogant know-it-all, wannabe, part of the construction process: The Architect...

Hey JR! How are ya?

laugh.gif
</div></div>



Fucking termites. Always have some shit falling out of their mouths.
grin.gif


Not doing to bad. I miss my rifles, but hopefully I'll have them back soon. If the withdrawals get any worse, I may need to bum one of your sticks for an afternoon.
wink.gif
</div></div>

Now see, it's when you talk like that that I think there is hope for you in spite of your chosen profession! It seems there is a Carpenter in Tampa who hasn't been afield with a firearm in some two months...Perhaps you make a point worth exploring.

I have a couple of rifles you might be interested in seeing and Sunday is open!
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGGHEAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys I think I am going to build a new house. I know exactly what I want. And for the most part exactly how I want to build it. However I have a few questions. And I figure some of you guys will have good answers. So here goes.

I am going to build the house 24' X 90". The living area is going to be 24' X 40'. And the garage is going to be 24' X 50'. The dwelling part is going to have 8' walls. And the garage is going to have 10' walls.

There is not going to be a basement. I am going to build the house on a slab of concrete. A slab is just too easy when you live in a wheelchair. And I need everything to be on the same level. So this is why I will be building on a slab.

Now to my question. I will be using 2X6's for the side walls. My question is concerning the bottom plate of my framing. Obviously I need to used wolmanized lumber for the bottom plate. But do I need to double up that bottom plate?? Or is one thickness of wolmanized enough to protect on both the inside and the outside??

The outside sheathing will be T-111 siding. How far above the concrete does the bottom of that T-111 need to be held??

The front porch is also going to be concrete, and the same level as the house floor. And the back will just be dirt(grass). So how far does that T-111 need to be above the ground?? Should I treat the grass area differently from the concrete??

Any other suggestions will be gretly appreciated.

Do I need an aluminum termite barrier underneath the bottom plate on a slab?? Thanks, Tom.
</div></div>


If you build a slab on grade house in West Virginia you are going to have major structural issues, every winter you will have freeze thaw conditions and your slab will move.

You will need to get your footers below the frost line, then build a stem wall.

I would use ICF, then build it out of block, framing will not be cheaper or easier to build.

BTW on frame construction you need a single bottom plate, not a double, you need a double top plate.

Based on your question on the bottom plate, I suggest you hire a Licensed General Contractor to build your house, it will come out better and cheaper in the long run.

Subs are going to hammer a home owner building a single house, because they know you guys have no clue on pricing, you will not be able to adequately superevise them because you never built a house before.
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGGHEAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There is not going to be a basement. I am going to build the house on a slab of concrete. A slab is just too easy when you live in a wheelchair. And I need everything to be on the same level. So this is why I will be building on a slab.
Any other suggestions will be gretly appreciated.


</div></div>

you will not be able to have an attached garage at the same grade as the house without a gasoline ledge(prevent a flammable liquid from flowing into a residence)

an open air breezeway between would meet the requirement
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: George63</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGGHEAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There is not going to be a basement. I am going to build the house on a slab of concrete. A slab is just too easy when you live in a wheelchair. And I need everything to be on the same level. So this is why I will be building on a slab.
Any other suggestions will be gretly appreciated.


</div></div>

you will not be able to have an attached garage at the same grade as the house without a gasoline ledge(prevent a flammable liquid from flowing into a residence)

an open air breezeway between would meet the requirement </div></div>

State codes could be different...
 
Re: Carpenters?? Wood Guys?? Builders??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: George63</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGGHEAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There is not going to be a basement. I am going to build the house on a slab of concrete. A slab is just too easy when you live in a wheelchair. And I need everything to be on the same level. So this is why I will be building on a slab.
Any other suggestions will be gretly appreciated.


</div></div>

you will not be able to have an attached garage at the same grade as the house without a gasoline ledge(prevent a flammable liquid from flowing into a residence)

an open air breezeway between would meet the requirement </div></div>

State codes could be different... </div></div>

Most State Building Codes are based on the International Code, and they require a lower elevation in the garage than the living area, on a slab on grade this is very easy to accomplish by stepping the slab.