Re: Case Annealing
I believe you anneal first. I am not an expert but I believe that it will make the brass less stiff so resizing will be easier.
I believe you anneal first. I am not an expert but I believe that it will make the brass less stiff so resizing will be easier.
Re: Case Annealing
Get some Tempilaq to help set your machine. I just went through this with my new Giraud. I ended up with 750 as the target temp on the necks and around 350-400 down the case wall to make sure I didn't get the bottom part of the case too hot.
HERE is a good source for Tempilaq. Get some thinner while you're at it.
Get some Tempilaq to help set your machine. I just went through this with my new Giraud. I ended up with 750 as the target temp on the necks and around 350-400 down the case wall to make sure I didn't get the bottom part of the case too hot.
HERE is a good source for Tempilaq. Get some thinner while you're at it.
Re: Case Annealing
Yep, anneal first. On the Giraud, make sure your torch is set up properly. Had to adjust mine as teh flame was going from a torch to a basic flame out the sides. A little tweaking solved that issue. Until then, I couldnt leave the machine and it defeated the whole idea of the automated case feeding.
Did over a 1,000 cases yesterday while cleaning up the garage.
Yep, anneal first. On the Giraud, make sure your torch is set up properly. Had to adjust mine as teh flame was going from a torch to a basic flame out the sides. A little tweaking solved that issue. Until then, I couldnt leave the machine and it defeated the whole idea of the automated case feeding.
Did over a 1,000 cases yesterday while cleaning up the garage.
Re: Case Annealing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldTex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Get some Tempilaq to help set your machine. I just went through this with my new Giraud. I ended up with 750 as the target temp on the necks and around 350-400 down the case wall to make sure I didn't get the bottom part of the case too hot.
HERE is a good source for Tempilaq. Get some thinner while you're at it. </div></div>
I am familiar with McMaster-Carr since I used to purchase stuff for work from them and so I brought some of the Tempilaq as per the above suggestion. The ones I brought were the "Temperature Indicating Crayons", showed up the next day which is great service; however I am stumped as to how to use them.
When I open the crayons which were sealed in plastic bags, the inserts looks more to me like chalk than any crayons I am familiar with and it is so dry that it would not write on anything, not brass or for that matter even paper. I am wondering if the material I got has dried out?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldTex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Get some Tempilaq to help set your machine. I just went through this with my new Giraud. I ended up with 750 as the target temp on the necks and around 350-400 down the case wall to make sure I didn't get the bottom part of the case too hot.
HERE is a good source for Tempilaq. Get some thinner while you're at it. </div></div>
I am familiar with McMaster-Carr since I used to purchase stuff for work from them and so I brought some of the Tempilaq as per the above suggestion. The ones I brought were the "Temperature Indicating Crayons", showed up the next day which is great service; however I am stumped as to how to use them.
When I open the crayons which were sealed in plastic bags, the inserts looks more to me like chalk than any crayons I am familiar with and it is so dry that it would not write on anything, not brass or for that matter even paper. I am wondering if the material I got has dried out?
Re: Case Annealing
Jlow, I use those crayons myself. They are designed to write on HOT surfaces, not cold surfaces. What I do is touch the crayon to the brass the instant it comes off the annealer. If you get color from the crayon onto the case, you are at or above that temp. If no mark is on the case, you are below the indicating temp.
Jlow, I use those crayons myself. They are designed to write on HOT surfaces, not cold surfaces. What I do is touch the crayon to the brass the instant it comes off the annealer. If you get color from the crayon onto the case, you are at or above that temp. If no mark is on the case, you are below the indicating temp.
Re: Case Annealing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jlow, I use those crayons myself. They are designed to write on HOT surfaces, not cold surfaces. What I do is touch the crayon to the brass the instant it comes off the annealer. If you get color from the crayon onto the case, you are at or above that temp. If no mark is on the case, you are below the indicating temp. </div></div>
Thanks! I will try them that way – much appreciated!
Not to be argumentative but unfortunately there is no instructions with the crayons and at least what it says on the McMaster-Carr website would lead one to think that you can use the crayon to put a mark on as an indicator. It says “<span style="color: #FF0000">Apply directly on the surface you're monitoring. The mark melts when the rated temperature has been reached. These are nonreversible—once a mark has melted, it cannot be used to indicate again</span>”.
In addition, there is apparently a the liquid version next to the Crayon which again leads on to assume that one would paint on metal before you heat it and it would melt off at the right temp? They also add this statement “<span style="color: #FF0000">Thinner returns liquid to workable consistency when it dries out”</span>. Which further fortify the idea that the crayons may have dried out?
Not saying I am right but you can see why there might be a bit of confusion.
<span style="text-decoration: underline">Addendum</span>: I did a bit more research on the web and you are indeed correct “<span style="color: #FF0000">Stroke heated surface. A liquid smear will show at the rated temperature</span>” – So thanks!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jlow, I use those crayons myself. They are designed to write on HOT surfaces, not cold surfaces. What I do is touch the crayon to the brass the instant it comes off the annealer. If you get color from the crayon onto the case, you are at or above that temp. If no mark is on the case, you are below the indicating temp. </div></div>
Thanks! I will try them that way – much appreciated!
Not to be argumentative but unfortunately there is no instructions with the crayons and at least what it says on the McMaster-Carr website would lead one to think that you can use the crayon to put a mark on as an indicator. It says “<span style="color: #FF0000">Apply directly on the surface you're monitoring. The mark melts when the rated temperature has been reached. These are nonreversible—once a mark has melted, it cannot be used to indicate again</span>”.
In addition, there is apparently a the liquid version next to the Crayon which again leads on to assume that one would paint on metal before you heat it and it would melt off at the right temp? They also add this statement “<span style="color: #FF0000">Thinner returns liquid to workable consistency when it dries out”</span>. Which further fortify the idea that the crayons may have dried out?
Not saying I am right but you can see why there might be a bit of confusion.
<span style="text-decoration: underline">Addendum</span>: I did a bit more research on the web and you are indeed correct “<span style="color: #FF0000">Stroke heated surface. A liquid smear will show at the rated temperature</span>” – So thanks!
