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Case volume vs case weight

Dildobaggins

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Minuteman
  • Jun 26, 2020
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    Last question for today.

    Watched a video on YouTube. I believe it was Johnny's reloading bench. He compared starline and Lapua 223 rem brass. The starline actually had more consistent weights than the lapua. He then checked case volume. 100 pieces of starline and 100 pieces of Lapua. The lapua case volume was much more consistent than the starline.

    I've seen a lot on this forum about people weighing and sorting brass in other threads. Would weighing and sorting brass even make a difference if the case volumes are in consistent?
     
    Last question for today.

    Watched a video on YouTube. I believe it was Johnny's reloading bench. He compared starline and Lapua 223 rem brass. The starline actually had more consistent weights than the lapua. He then checked case volume. 100 pieces of starline and 100 pieces of Lapua. The lapua case volume was much more consistent than the starline.

    I've seen a lot on this forum about people weighing and sorting brass in other threads. Would weighing and sorting brass even make a difference if the case volumes are in consistent?

    I've found that starline 6.5cm cases have been extremely consistent in case capacity and very good in weight too. Case capacity is the bigger factor for me, always and I generally use lapua brass other calibers. I did start using starline 223 brass recently for my AR's because it's pretty dang good for the money, and I don't worry about not finding one like I do with lapua, and of course, AR's are hard on brass anyway. I haven't played with it enough to say much about it accept its pretty similar to lapua in H20 and weight. My load is .1gr less for starline vs lapua in .223.
     
    What makes you think that guy is competent to measure case volume accurately? Because he has a YouTube channel?
    Do you work for starline? What makes you competent to say he's not competent? JK.

    But seriously? I don't know. I've watched many of his videos, he goes into great detail and depth in most of them. You'd be hard pressed to find a video of his on anything under 5 minutes. Maybe he likes to hear himself talk idk.
     
    Last question for today.

    Watched a video on YouTube. I believe it was Johnny's reloading bench. He compared starline and Lapua 223 rem brass. The starline actually had more consistent weights than the lapua. He then checked case volume. 100 pieces of starline and 100 pieces of Lapua. The lapua case volume was much more consistent than the starline.

    I've seen a lot on this forum about people weighing and sorting brass in other threads. Would weighing and sorting brass even make a difference if the case volumes are in consistent?
    I've done sorting of my Lapua brass where I've sorted a box of 100 .308 cases (see pic below) and took 5 outliers on both ends the weights and loaded them up to see if there was a difference. I had a significant difference (not huge, but easily stood out) in both average velocity and POI's. Then I repeated the test and got the same result. So, I've feel sorting works well culling out the outliers with quality brass like Lapua or sorting less quality cases into batches with nothing over .3 grains difference in case weight for cases the size of .308's. Note in the last pic for Peterson Cartridge company the relationship for weight vs volume; no consistent correlation, but certainly some correlation. Also, see the pic from my spreadsheet for various cases weighted and volume measured.

    Lapua Brass weight measurements.jpg


    Case weights and volumes.jpg


    Brass thickness.png


    Peterson Brass data.jpg
     
    Last edited:
    The problem is people posting data on case volume don’t know how to measure it correctly. They use virgin brass without measuring it to make sure it’s consistent in its exterior dimensions. Factory brass often needs to be fl sized and trimmed to be exactly the same. Then there’s the liquid and how you fill the case without introducing air bubbles. Tap the case they say, but can you dislodge air from inside the primer pocket? Good luck with that. Then there’s concave, convex, or flat meniscus. How do you make sure that part is consistent? Any variance anywhere translates into volume error.

    Finally the scale: how accurate is it really? Plus/minus .1gr, .01gr, .001gr? What is the linearity?

    When people throw numbers around in the .05 range their scale better be capable of true .01gr accuracy, not some claimed plus/minus .02gr bullshit.
     
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    What makes you think that guy is competent to measure case volume accurately? Because he has a YouTube channel?
    First place for dickhead reply .
     
    Case volume is what is crucial . Weighing brass empty does very little .
     
    The problem is people posting data on case volume don’t know how to measure it correctly. They use virgin brass without measuring it to make sure it’s consistent in its exterior dimensions. Factory brass often needs to be fl sized and trimmed to be exactly the same. Then there’s the liquid and how you fill the case without introducing air bubbles. Tap the case they say, but can you dislodge air from inside the primer pocket? Good luck with that. Then there’s concave, convex, or flat meniscus. How do you make sure that part is consistent? Any variance anywhere translates into volume error.

    Finally the scale: how accurate is it really? Plus/minus .1gr, .01gr, .001gr? What is the linearity?

    When people throw numbers around in the .05 range their scale better be capable of true .01gr accuracy, not some claimed plus/minus .02gr bullshit.
    Sweet story bro . Like you are the authority on the subject . What a joke .
     
    Sweet story bro . Like you are the authority on the subject . What a joke .
    No idea how you could logically dispute the facts he stated.
    Making sarcastic comments without facts is foolish, to be very kind.
    The problem is people posting data on case volume don’t know how to measure it correctly. They use virgin brass without measuring it to make sure it’s consistent in its exterior dimensions. Factory brass often needs to be fl sized and trimmed to be exactly the same. Then there’s the liquid and how you fill the case without introducing air bubbles. Tap the case they say, but can you dislodge air from inside the primer pocket? Good luck with that. Then there’s concave, convex, or flat meniscus. How do you make sure that part is consistent? Any variance anywhere translates into volume error.

    Finally the scale: how accurate is it really? Plus/minus .1gr, .01gr, .001gr? What is the linearity?

    When people throw numbers around in the .05 range their scale better be capable of true .01gr accuracy, not some claimed plus/minus .02gr bullshit.
    Tell me where this is wrong please.
     
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    I did this testing when I shot F-Class. After far too much time and effort I came to the conclusion that I can't shoot the difference caused by any volume variation at 600 yards.

    Try it yourself and see. Pick X number of cases with the smallest case volume, then X with the highest case volume. Put groups at 600 or whatever distance you can consistently measure groups. Compare, then ask yourself if you could shoot the difference. Maybe, maybe not.
     
    I helped an F-Class shooter out with a similar weight vs volume vs velocity analysis. He had great measuring equipment and good processes and did a ton of work gathering data, something like 60+ cases tracked/measured over 2 firings.

    I have some scatter plots with trend lines I could post, but the main takeaway was that there was not a strong correlation and it was not worth messing with.
     
    I too measure case volume. For myself, from a fired case.

    I noticed that there are air bubbles and I fill the case to neck and then tap it, not shake it.
    Then I suck the air bubbles out with a dipper and make sure the surface is quite even. I used to check the reflection size of my light from the surface but nowdays I do not care if it throws a little, my scale is usually not precise enough to make the call anyways. I just want the ballpark.

    Not sure for what I do this but might be usable data later on and 10 cases is not bad to establish an average.

    And I sure do notice volume differences between makes even with some leeway. But I cannot put much emphasis on data with just 10 datapoints.

    Sadly, I do not think volume plays a lot to my accuracy, I am 95% the reason why my scores suck (or the wind, your call)
     
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    The problem is people posting data on case volume don’t know how to measure it correctly. They use virgin brass without measuring it to make sure it’s consistent in its exterior dimensions. Factory brass often needs to be fl sized and trimmed to be exactly the same. Then there’s the liquid and how you fill the case without introducing air bubbles. Tap the case they say, but can you dislodge air from inside the primer pocket? Good luck with that. Then there’s concave, convex, or flat meniscus. How do you make sure that part is consistent? Any variance anywhere translates into volume error.

    Finally the scale: how accurate is it really? Plus/minus .1gr, .01gr, .001gr? What is the linearity?

    When people throw numbers around in the .05 range their scale better be capable of true .01gr accuracy, not some claimed plus/minus .02gr bullshit.
    Agree with all the issues you mention for getting a good correct volume measurement by weighing cases. So, just an FYI . . . I did address these issues and you'll note in my posted pictures, I used fired brass and even compared volumes of fired brass to sized brass. With the right method, it's not hard to fill a case with water and keep bubbles from forming; it just takes a little care in the way they're filled. Also, it's not that difficult to see a flat meniscus using a light source and having a concave or convex one from a flat one does make a difference in weight measurement. This is not to say there can't be a very very insignificant difference in weight when perceiving a flat meniscus from another when using a light reflection, but that's well beyond the ability of any equipment reloaders use.

    Any time one is after absolutes, there's going to be arguments over anyone's conclusions. :rolleyes:
     
    Agree with all the issues you mention for getting a good correct volume measurement by weighing cases. So, just an FYI . . . I did address these issues and you'll note in my posted pictures, I used fired brass and even compared volumes of fired brass to sized brass. With the right method, it's not hard to fill a case with water and keep bubbles from forming; it just takes a little care in the way they're filled. Also, it's not that difficult to see a flat meniscus using a light source and having a concave or convex one from a flat one does make a difference in weight measurement. This is not to say there can't be a very very insignificant difference in weight when perceiving a flat meniscus from another when using a light reflection, but that's well beyond the ability of any equipment reloaders use.

    Any time one is after absolutes, there's going to be arguments over anyone's conclusions. :rolleyes:

    I wasn’t poking at you. I intended to point out the BS in these case volume tests. If someone is doing a test incorrectly then his results are worthless. And it takes a lot of time and effort to do something like this right.

    Air trapped in the primer pocket is worth some amount of water. Tapping a case isn’t going to dislodge that air bubble reliably. So how do you overcome this? Do you use a long needle and fill the case starting at the primer pocket? Can you see how long it would take to do a hundred cases? And this is just one issue out of the many.
     
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    I wasn’t poking at you. I intended to point out the BS in these case volume tests. If someone is doing a test incorrectly then his results are worthless. And it takes a lot of time and effort to do something like this right.

    Air trapped in the primer pocket is worth some amount of water. Tapping a case isn’t going to dislodge that air bubble reliably. So how do you overcome this? Do you use a long needle and fill the case starting at the primer pocket? Can you see how long it would take to do a hundred cases? And this is just one issue out of the many.
    Yes, it does take a lot of time with this method for measuring case volume. Because of the time it takes just to do 10, I've never tried to do 100. So, I just stick to 10 of a lot to get an idea of any relative volume difference. Otherwise, since I use mostly Lapua brass, I'll just weight them for an empty weight difference, looking for the outliers that can upset what I like to see on paper (usually, only a couple out of a hundred that I'll mark for use as fowlers).

    To avoid bubbles when filling the cases, I have indeed used a syringe. But I've come to like using a small plastic squeeze bottle to drip the water in. I found I was able to get the same results with the bottle as I did with the syringe as long as I'm no in a hurry. :giggle:

    Syringe.JPG
     
    Last edited:
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    For the volume measurements to be consistent it shouldn't be done on new unfired brass. To properly determine the effective volume the case must have been fired at least once so that the case has stretched to fill the chamber and would need to be trimmed to a uniform length. Reallisticly, after firing the case can be fired, resized in the same die, and trimmed to uniformed length. At this point the cases have been expanded to chamber dimensions and the brass will be uniform.

    It's also important to note that when using water for the measurement the meniscus of the water above the mouth can hold several drops of water depending on the caliber. It's actually better to use 91% isopropyl alcohol and will not have a convex meniscus. You can convert to grains of H2O by dividing the alcohol weight by 0.79 (Edited).

    Differences in brass volume have an impact on peak pressure and the most significant effect is when it is fully expanded in the chamber. Fully resized brass will also have a minor effect since some of the energy available is required to expand the brass.
     
    Last edited:
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    I wasn’t poking at you. I intended to point out the BS in these case volume tests. If someone is doing a test incorrectly then his results are worthless. And it takes a lot of time and effort to do something like this right.

    Air trapped in the primer pocket is worth some amount of water. Tapping a case isn’t going to dislodge that air bubble reliably. So how do you overcome this? Do you use a long needle and fill the case starting at the primer pocket? Can you see how long it would take to do a hundred cases? And this is just one issue out of the many.
    Have you ever checked case capacity ?
     
    Last question for today.

    Watched a video on YouTube. I believe it was Johnny's reloading bench. He compared starline and Lapua 223 rem brass. The starline actually had more consistent weights than the lapua. He then checked case volume. 100 pieces of starline and 100 pieces of Lapua. The lapua case volume was much more consistent than the starline.

    I've seen a lot on this forum about people weighing and sorting brass in other threads. Would weighing and sorting brass even make a difference if the case volumes are in consistent?
    No. Case volume consistency is paramount
     
    I'm late to the party on this subject but some might find what follows interesting.
    I'm only shooting 33XC at the moment, so that means Peterson brass only.
    Sort cases by case weight or by H2O?
    Jump to the chart comparing cases sorted by H2O weight [green] and its empty case weight [blue]. Note the wildly varying case weights. You might exclude 8 or 9 cases based on brass weight, but in terms of H2O, there would be no reason to.
    There has been discussion about at what point to measure H2O.
    I can see some logic in weighing H2O in fired brass, in that is what the brass expands to.
    I don’t do that. I prepare my fired brass ready to reload, to be physically the same external measurements.
    All brass for competitive or research use has been fired at least once and I AMP anneal after all cleaning processes, every time.
    My fired brass have the neck walls FClass Products Auto IDOD turned to 0.013 ±0.0005 or better.
    De-prime with a hand de-primer.
    Primer pocket depth unify. (Cleans)
    Flash hole debur (removed carbon from inside the flash hole)
    Wet tumble clean with a Rebel 17.
    Full length resize to bump -0.003 ±0.0015 and neck resize with 0.362 collar.
    Cases dry rumbled for 10 - 20 minutes to remove all lubricant.
    Neck trimmed (inner and outer chamfer) with Giraud Power Trimmer (not Tri-Way Trimmer)
    Notes on two of the above processes.
    The Bump process gives a length based on base to shoulder. ±0.0015 is as best I can achieve. I have tried two methods to combat spring back.
    A single resize movement and hold for 4 seconds and a double resize movement, holding for two seconds. The latter seems more consistent in that a third movement does not always change the bump.
    Then the Giraud Trimmer ID and OD chamfers the neck using the shoulder as the datum, BUT the cutter is a V, so whilst the inner and outer chamfers are consistent, the actual end rim is not trimmed. If it was, it would be a knife edge around the case rim.
    This V trimming produces case lengths ± 0.0037. This is made of the Bump being ±0.0015 and the Giraud Trimmer case neck end being ±0.0015 (I know that adds up to ±0.003 but measuring 60 cases, the lengths were ±0.0037)
    I’m debating on having two Giraud Trimmers, one with a flat blade, which would trim the neck length consistently based on the shoulder and therefor the case lengths would be ±0.0015 based solely on the Bump tolerance.
    Why should this matter?
    Well when it comes to measuring H2O, you see the water’s meniscus based on the end of the neck, which in turn affects the H2O weight. See photos.
    Then weigh every case on an A&D FX-120i scale (±0.02gr)
    Fit a fired primer with anvil still in place. I don’t put a primer in upside down. So fiddly I don’t have the patience.
    Re-weigh the cases.
    Fill with room temperature water, to an as constant meniscus as I can.
    Re-weigh with water.
    I empty out the water and dry air blast the case but leave the primer in.
    All the figures are entered in a spreadsheet, then sorted by increasing H2O only weight.
    I then look at the graphs.
    Sometimes, there is an anomalous weight, which is why I leave the primers in, so I can re-weigh.
    I throw out cases which are obviously anomalously light or heavy H2O (I use those as fowlers) and print the data and graphs.
    If you look at my graphs (H2O green on the left, empty case weight blue on the right) you will see that as the H2O increases (the VOLUME), the weight of the empty cases decreases.
    My only explanation is that the cases wall thicknesses decrease and/or the internal case head base decreases in thickness. Both would allow more volume.
    My sorted cases have an average H2O weight of 140.07gr ± 0.32gr or ±0.23%
    So what?
    QuickLoad tells me that could vary the Mv 7fps before I start reloading. So I reload and shoot cases sequentially based on H2O and not shuffle the cases.
    All the above is why I sort by H2O and not brass weight.
     

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    I'm late to the party on this subject but some might find what follows interesting.
    I'm only shooting 33XC at the moment, so that means Peterson brass only.
    Sort cases by case weight or by H2O?
    Jump to the chart comparing cases sorted by H2O weight [green] and its empty case weight [blue]. Note the wildly varying case weights. You might exclude 8 or 9 cases based on brass weight, but in terms of H2O, there would be no reason to.
    There has been discussion about at what point to measure H2O.
    I can see some logic in weighing H2O in fired brass, in that is what the brass expands to.
    I don’t do that. I prepare my fired brass ready to reload, to be physically the same external measurements.
    All brass for competitive or research use has been fired at least once and I AMP anneal after all cleaning processes, every time.
    My fired brass have the neck walls FClass Products Auto IDOD turned to 0.013 ±0.0005 or better.
    De-prime with a hand de-primer.
    Primer pocket depth unify. (Cleans)
    Flash hole debur (removed carbon from inside the flash hole)
    Wet tumble clean with a Rebel 17.
    Full length resize to bump -0.003 ±0.0015 and neck resize with 0.362 collar.
    Cases dry rumbled for 10 - 20 minutes to remove all lubricant.
    Neck trimmed (inner and outer chamfer) with Giraud Power Trimmer (not Tri-Way Trimmer)
    Notes on two of the above processes.
    The Bump process gives a length based on base to shoulder. ±0.0015 is as best I can achieve. I have tried two methods to combat spring back.
    A single resize movement and hold for 4 seconds and a double resize movement, holding for two seconds. The latter seems more consistent in that a third movement does not always change the bump.
    Then the Giraud Trimmer ID and OD chamfers the neck using the shoulder as the datum, BUT the cutter is a V, so whilst the inner and outer chamfers are consistent, the actual end rim is not trimmed. If it was, it would be a knife edge around the case rim.
    This V trimming produces case lengths ± 0.0037. This is made of the Bump being ±0.0015 and the Giraud Trimmer case neck end being ±0.0015 (I know that adds up to ±0.003 but measuring 60 cases, the lengths were ±0.0037)
    I’m debating on having two Giraud Trimmers, one with a flat blade, which would trim the neck length consistently based on the shoulder and therefor the case lengths would be ±0.0015 based solely on the Bump tolerance.
    Why should this matter?
    Well when it comes to measuring H2O, you see the water’s meniscus based on the end of the neck, which in turn affects the H2O weight. See photos.
    Then weigh every case on an A&D FX-120i scale (±0.02gr)
    Fit a fired primer with anvil still in place. I don’t put a primer in upside down. So fiddly I don’t have the patience.
    Re-weigh the cases.
    Fill with room temperature water, to an as constant meniscus as I can.
    Re-weigh with water.
    I empty out the water and dry air blast the case but leave the primer in.
    All the figures are entered in a spreadsheet, then sorted by increasing H2O only weight.
    I then look at the graphs.
    Sometimes, there is an anomalous weight, which is why I leave the primers in, so I can re-weigh.
    I throw out cases which are obviously anomalously light or heavy H2O (I use those as fowlers) and print the data and graphs.
    If you look at my graphs (H2O green on the left, empty case weight blue on the right) you will see that as the H2O increases (the VOLUME), the weight of the empty cases decreases.
    My only explanation is that the cases wall thicknesses decrease and/or the internal case head base decreases in thickness. Both would allow more volume.
    My sorted cases have an average H2O weight of 140.07gr ± 0.32gr or ±0.23%
    So what?
    QuickLoad tells me that could vary the Mv 7fps before I start reloading. So I reload and shoot cases sequentially based on H2O and not shuffle the cases.
    All the above is why I sort by H2O and not brass weight.
    Very nice!

    That your case volumes (H2O) increases as the weight of the empty cases decrease is simply more evidence for the correlation for the two. Of course, one needs to draw a mean line on the blue weight graph to better show that. And as I try to point out there's not a direct correlation as there are cases with enough variation in weight to volume to throw a load off. But if cases are kept in sequence from lesser to greater, better consistency on target can be achieved, though if there's enough difference from the least to the greater, it can effect the mean POI location.

    BTW: You state you're getting ± .0037 in case lengths with trimming on your Giraud and that means your case lengths vary by .0074". Is that what you really meant to say? I tend to get < ± .001 variance using my Giraud 3-way trimmer now that I've got the feel for holding the case into the cutter. When I first got the trimmer, I was getting substantial variation in case length, similar to what you indicated and it all had to do with the varying pressure I was putting on the case as it was being trimmed. I think one can have the same issue with Giraud's Power Trimmer.

    I don't have much problem with the meniscus and use a light source to see how flat the H2O is with the mouth and I'm often wicking small amounts off with fibers on the edge of a paper towel to get it that way.
     
    Very nice!

    That your case volumes (H2O) increases as the weight of the empty cases decrease is simply more evidence for the correlation for the two. Of course, one needs to draw a mean line on the blue weight graph to better show that. And as I try to point out there's not a direct correlation as there are cases with enough variation in weight to volume to throw a load off. But if cases are kept in sequence from lesser to greater, better consistency on target can be achieved, though if there's enough difference from the least to the greater, it can effect the mean POI location.

    BTW: You state you're getting ± .0037 in case lengths with trimming on your Giraud and that means your case lengths vary by .0074". Is that what you really meant to say? I tend to get < ± .001 variance using my Giraud 3-way trimmer now that I've got the feel for holding the case into the cutter. When I first got the trimmer, I was getting substantial variation in case length, similar to what you indicated and it all had to do with the varying pressure I was putting on the case as it was being trimmed. I think one can have the same issue with Giraud's Power Trimmer.

    I don't have much problem with the meniscus and use a light source to see how flat the H2O is with the mouth and I'm often wicking small amounts off with fibers on the edge of a paper towel to get it that way.
    ±0.0037 is correct, but bear in mind the height of the chamfers.
    See photos from Doug's Trimmer manual.
    It does look as if Doug trims to a knife edge, which would give a constant case length, but a) I don't want to over trim and b) it is SHARP! I had the band aid to prove it! (Re-loader's finger, similar to Sniper's eye :LOL:)
    Without sectioning a case neck, measuring the chamfer's Z axis length (height) is only an approximation, and mine are between 0.012 and 0.017.
    My working assumption is that in terms of neck/bullet bearing surface, it ends at the bottom of the chamfer. This makes the actual case length, for practical purposes, irrelevant.
    Overnight, I've pondered my post and as a result, I'm ordering another machine from Doug, if he can provide a flat cutter. When I order, I specify the neck diameter so the neck is held central.

    Proper inside and outside chamfers.1.jpg
    Properly trimmed case 0.jpg