Casting Bullets!

jkkfam89

jkkfam89

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 2, 2008
696
17
48
Bloomfield
#1
Before anything, I am a newbie to the world of casting. I am listing my process of casting bullets from tire weights to get feedback on my process.

To Start:
I went to a Local tire shop an picked up approx. 30 lbs of tire weights. They were more then happy to see them go.
wheelweights.jpg


I then went to a grocery store and picked up a pot (To melt the lead weights in)and a large spoon (to skim the top)

Make sure to be in a well vented area. Also, use leather gloves, safety glasses, a dust mask and an apron.

I placed the pot on top of my small camping burner. I filled the bottom of the pot to start. After a little bit, the lead started to melt. At that point I added more weights. In all, I fill the pot to about half full. As the lead melted, impurities and the steel started to float to the top. I then used my large spoon to skim the top.
IMG_4342.jpg


After the lead is skimmed, I removed the pot from the burner and pored it into my ingots. I let the ingots sit for a minute, then dumped them out.
lead.jpg

At this point I turned my Lee furnace on and placed to pieces of the molded lead in it. When the lead melts down I added some flux (Clean cast lead fluxing compound) 1/8 tsp. I once again skimmed the top of the melted lead.
lee.jpg


I chose to start with 9mm bullets. I purchased a LEE Bullet Mold from midwayusa ( http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=476412 ). I placed the mold on top of my furnace to warm it up. I left it there for about 10 minutes. I have heard of people using matches to heat the inside of the molds. When the mold was heated up, I started to poor the lead. When the mold was filled properly, I released the bullets into a pan of water with a towel in it (Quenching). Any bullets that I didn't approve of went right back into the furnace.

I molded 300 9mm bullets in about :45 minutes. Now, I have separated the good bullets and I am going to heat treat them. This will harden them even more.

These bullets are ready to go into the oven at 450 degrees.
IMG_4357.jpg


Here is the oven I use for hardening
IMG_4358.jpg


Tip: Bullets in an oven pre-heated to 450 degrees for one hour will heat treat wheel weights (Lead - arsenic - antimony alloy) to approximately 18 BHN. One hour at 475 degrees will harden the alloy to approximately 22 BHN. With the oven just barely below the melting point the alloy Will harden to 30+ BHN. Ovens and thermometers vary, experiment to achieve your desired results. This tip is borrowed from the lasc.us website.

The pan I use to heat the bullets has holes in the bottom. So, when removed from the oven the bullets will go into a sink filled with water and Ice.

My final process will be to lube the bullets. I personally will place the casted bullets into a bowl and mixed with LEE Alox bullet lube ( http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=466811 ). The bullets then are removed from the lube bowl and set out to dry.

Again I am new to the casting of bullets. My write up is for others to learn as well as myself. I hope some people will get some use out of this write up. I look forward to everyones feedback.

The casting of bullets will help me at the range, by by breaking my bank. With the donations of brass and lead, the cost of ammo now is reasonable. Thank you for looking. Good luck.

300 boxed 9mm bullets:
IMG_4354.jpg


Hrre is the Bullet sizer and luber I am going to purchase!
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=458891


 
#2
Re: Casting Bullets!

Any way to make shooting more economical is a wonderful thing. But you need to check the size of your bullets as cast. You need to rotate it while checking the OD with a micrometer. Some bullet molds cast between .002" and .008" large and need to be sized. Personally I use a lubrisizer to lube and size the bullets to a known outside diameter. If you want to read up on it there are several books on the subject. Lyman's has a wonderful book for beginners. I don't remember the correct name right now. But it has "cast bullets" in the name.

Good luck.
 
#6
Re: Casting Bullets!

A little trick if you have a sticky Lee Mold! Take one of you cast bullets and hold it in one of the cavity's. Scribe a line along the center of the mold and find the center of the bullet. Take a drill bit and drill a hole into the bullet while holding it in the mold. Put a piece of tape on your bit to keep from drilling to deep. Then take a drywall screw and screw it into the bullet. Clip the head off the screw and your ready to polish you mold cavity's.

Put a little bit of Flitz metal polish on the bullet place it into the mold cavity and hold the mold together tightly. Spin the bullet in the cavity for several minutes. Repeat for all cavity's and then clean the cavity's out with brake clean and a tooth brush.

The next time you cast you should notice the bullet release out of the mold with little or no tapping, wrapping, beating of the mold. I have done this with all my molds and it is night and day how the drop out.

The match trick is not to heat the mold its called smoking the mold! What your doing is trying to get a nice black layer of carbon on the cavity's. This is the old fashion release agent.

DSC00398.jpg


DSC00394.jpg


DSC00399.jpg


DSC00400.jpg


Terry
 
#10
Re: Casting Bullets!

Some good S2 on the topic! I'm getting ready to start casting myself.... The only things left to pick up are a few more LuberSizer dies for the calibers i will be casting for. Already have the .45acp, .38/357 covered, but need the 9mm and rifle calibers I shoot...
 
#12
Re: Casting Bullets!

uuuuuhhhhhhhhhhh NOOOOOO dont use that pot for sure i have been casting for 15 years everything from .224 52 gr lyman molds to .308 110-220 gr molds (i have over 40 moldsand probably more than that.....that hardly ever get used)and all different kind of 9mm, 452 and 44 cal molds. You need to sit down and read quite a few books Lyman 2nd editions (great book) and not burn down your house. It takes time and your house isnt ventalied near well enough to use a cooking pot. lol geez man PM me and Ill help you out with some ideas it just kills me how people think they can get by with dangerous ideas it takes years to get the right experience nothing you can gain in a week and NEVER use kiten appliance they arent made for casting BOOLITS. you have to get your metal right or youll have krinkling and bullets not filling out. I say casting GOOD quality bullets is aleast 10x harder than reloading with 3 times the risk of self injury.
 
#14
Re: Casting Bullets!

Great advice shooter. That room is a decontamination room with a lot of ventilation. I just took a picture in the room, I melted the lead outside. Great advice though
 
#16
Re: Casting Bullets!

Thanks again shooter. When you are done using your mold, what do you lube it with?
Also, I have a guy who owns a range. He offered me 20 5 gallon buckets of spent bullets. I am thinking these are perfect for casting new ones.
 
#17
Re: Casting Bullets!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any way to make shooting more economical is a wonderful thing. But you need to check the size of your bullets as cast. You need to rotate it while checking the OD with a micrometer. Some bullet molds cast between .002" and .008" large and need to be sized. Personally I use a lubrisizer to lube and size the bullets to a known outside diameter. If you want to read up on it there are several books on the subject. <span style="font-weight: bold">Lyman's has a wonderful book for beginners.</span> I don't remember the correct name right now. But it has "cast bullets" in the name.

Good luck. </div></div>

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook

A tip to speed things up for you.

You can skip the heat treating in an oven if you do this:

19lb of wheel weight lead + 1 lb of shot gun shot "magnum" lead, this has more antimony than regular lead shot.

Melt it together in that Lee pot you have, mix it a little with a steel rod or something, start casting.

Drop the bullets straight from the mould into a bucket of water.

Lube, size, shoot.

They turn out at ~35-36 HBn, and I've tested them to that hardness.

You can shoot this very hard lead bullet with a gas check at full bore rifle speeds, and also in Glock's polygonally rifled barrels without a hiccup and no leading issues.

I've got several thousand down the pipe with this method, as does my dad (he taught it to me) and neither of us sees any lead building in the Glock barrels or the rifles.
 
#18
Re: Casting Bullets!

Linotype will get you there too! I do 16lbs of wheel weight ingots, 2lb of linotype, and a 1lb of tin. You cannot scrath the bullets with your finger nail! I do not have the equipment to check the hardness, however I have never had a leading issue with any of my loads.

Terry
 
#19
Re: Casting Bullets!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any way to make shooting more economical is a wonderful thing. But you need to check the size of your bullets as cast. You need to rotate it while checking the OD with a micrometer. Some bullet molds cast between .002" and .008" large and need to be sized. Personally I use a lubrisizer to lube and size the bullets to a known outside diameter. If you want to read up on it there are several books on the subject. <span style="font-weight: bold">Lyman's has a wonderful book for beginners.</span> I don't remember the correct name right now. But it has "cast bullets" in the name.

Good luck. </div></div>

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook

A tip to speed things up for you.

You can skip the heat treating in an oven if you do this:

19lb of wheel weight lead + 1 lb of shot gun shot "magnum" lead, this has more antimony than regular lead shot.

Melt it together in that Lee pot you have, mix it a little with a steel rod or something, start casting.

Drop the bullets straight from the mould into a bucket of water.

Lube, size, shoot.

They turn out at ~35-36 HBn, and I've tested them to that hardness.

You can shoot this very hard lead bullet with a gas check at full bore rifle speeds, and also in Glock's polygonally rifled barrels without a hiccup and no leading issues.

I've got several thousand down the pipe with this method, as does my dad (he taught it to me) and neither of us sees any lead building in the Glock barrels or the rifles. </div></div>

Very good info. I will test that way out.
 
#20
Re: Casting Bullets!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: suasponte</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Linotype will get you there too! I do 16lbs of wheel weight ingots, 2lb of linotype, and a 1lb of tin. You cannot scrath the bullets with your finger nail! I do not have the equipment to check the hardness, however I have never had a leading issue with any of my loads.

Terry </div></div>

I think this is the first piece of equipment that I own and you don't! WOAH!



Just pullin' your chain buddy. I've used Linotype as well but have a ready supply of wheel weights.
 
#22
Re: Casting Bullets!

Wow, this sure brought back memories. The only bullets I'm casting now are 522 gr for our 45/70. It's a 20:1 lead/tin mixture. Several years ago I was shooting NRA Silhouette and using a Contenter with a .357 barrel. I prevered a gas checked bullet and also used gas checks for .22, 30, and .375 rifle bullets and a #2 lyman alloy that I mixed up myself. I wish I could cast a core and build a jacket for my 50 BMG to make cheaper accurate bullets. Great pictures of what you are doing. I never did the heat harding thing but like the idea.
 
#23
Re: Casting Bullets!

Thanks, I am very new, but learning a lot from these experienced ones.
Steven, I will be cautious. I have a towel and heat lamps to put the lead under. I will dry the lead out before melting it. Face shield is a must, I agree. Thanks for the info.
 
#24
Re: Casting Bullets!

When I was 13 I decided I would make some 38 caliber bullets by drilling a hole in a fire brick with a 3/8" hole.

I found some 2 stroke oil in the bottom of containers to use as fuel.

I must have got a rain drop down the hole, because the lead exploded into may face, making a perfect casting in the shape of my eyeball. The doctor pulled it out of my eye.
The next day the shop teacher must have heard what happened to my face, because he was making fun of me.

Now 45 years later, I own some shotgun slug molds and lots of lead, but I have never used them, and always con someone else into pouring it.

I buy .358" 158 LSWC, .452" 152 gr LSWC, Lyman 311291 170 gr .309" gas checked, .458" 405 gr with lube bands, and some others.
http://www.westernbullet.com/castbullets.html
 
#25
Re: Casting Bullets!

Just a few comments.

Definitely the wrong pot to clean up your original WW. Find a good cast iron pot with a positive hanging handle. That handle on that pot will break with the weight of lead, and that is an accident you do not want.

I would do your first flux in the original WW pot.

Leading is more a function of bullet size and not the velocity you are running a 9mm at. Or in other words heat treating is not necessary. If you want to harden the bullets just a bit then water quench them directly out of the mold. However it really is not necessary.

The most important thing is proper sizing of bullets. Slug your bore and pour your bullets .001 to .002 over bore size. If the bullets are larger or smaller then they need to be sized-regardless of how hard the lead is you will have leading in your barrel.

Mixing alloys is fun, but definitely not necessary for what you are wanting to do. And the harder alloy is not necessary as long as you keep your velocities below 1600-1800 fps with properly sized bullets. Straight WW will work just fine.

As far as the actual casting is concerned--just work at a consistent cadence. Start counting from one and keep counting--do each casting step at the same cadence count. Soon it will become second nature. Consistency is the key to good bullets, and time and temp of pour are a big part of good bullets. Once you get your cadence down your will have very few rejects.

You can use break cleaner or alcohol to clean and degrease your mold. I use a candle to "smoke" the mold after you clean it. And when storing the mold leave a bullet in the mold.

Your cadence is the most important part of casting. Once you are casting consitent bullets you will have no problems. If you are serious about casting then I would advise the purchase of a sizer.

Again playing with different alloys is fun, but definitely not necessary for the beginning or even the advanced caster. I will sometimes mix in a little tin if I am not getting good fill out on my mold. But normally that happens when you are pouring large bullets, not the 9mm bullets. Tom.





 
#26
Re: Casting Bullets!

Thanks Tom,
I am going to get a different pot. That is great advice, not wanting the handle to loosen and have molds of my feet done. I was wanting to harden the bullets more to reduce any leading in the barrel. If this is a myth or I am wrong, I appreciate the advice you supply me.
With the amount of spent bullet lead I am picking up, ww will go on the back burner for now. I am going to dry out the spent bullet lead and re-cast them.
Thanks to everyone for the great info you have put forth. As I go deeper and deeper into reloading and casting, I find myself enjoying the learning experience and the cost savings.
 
#27
Re: Casting Bullets!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jkkfam89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Tom,
I am going to get a different pot. That is great advice, not wanting the handle to loosen and have molds of my feet done. I was wanting to harden the bullets more to reduce any leading in the barrel. If this is a myth or I am wrong, I appreciate the advice you supply me.
With the amount of spent bullet lead I am picking up, ww will go on the back burner for now. I am going to dry out the spent bullet lead and re-cast them.
Thanks to everyone for the great info you have put forth. As I go deeper and deeper into reloading and casting, I find myself enjoying the learning experience and the cost savings. </div></div>

Personally I think you are going to wish you went back to the tire store and picked up the WW. I have tried range trap scraps before. It was one of the biggest messes I ever got into. I will never do that again. I would pay $1 a pound for scrap WW before I would deal with that mess again. It just was not worth it to me(and I am pretty cheap). One trick to help you a bunch. Do not do any smelting until you buy a lead thermometer.

As far as leading is concerned. Leading is truly a function of a few variables.

Barrel preparation: Do not mix cast and jacketed bullets. When you switch from one to another you really need to get the barrel 100% clean. And I mean 100%---not 99%. Shooting cast bullets after you shoot jacketed bullets is a sure way to get leading in your barrel. And this is the biggest cause of most of the leading people speak of.

Sizing: The bullet needs to be the right size for the barrel that is in your gun. Not the diameter the mfr. says, but the actual measured diameter of YOUR barrel. This is a bit of a hassle to beginners. But read up on slugging a barrel. It is not that hard. Then properly size your bullets. This is easy in a pistol, but a little tougher in a revolver.

Velocity: Velocity is an issue, but not nearly the issue shooters think it is if you properly size your bullets. I shoot straight WW up to 1800 fps with no problem and with no gas checks in a few different rifles. Over 1800 fps I go with a gas check.

It looks like the base on your bullets is beveled?? Is it?? I prefer a flat based bullet. however it is easier to load the beveled base bullet. They go into the case easier. But if you properly bevel your case then you should not have any lead slicing with a good seating die.


Hardening the bullets is not a myth. If you need a hard bullet. Do you need a hard bullet?? If a bullet is not properly sized it does not matter if it is hard or soft-you will get leading. And it has been my experience that the harder an improperly sized bullet is---the more leading I got.

You may need a hard bullet. I do not. All of my cast bullet shooting is for fun, ground hogs, and deer. No need for hard lead for these critters. Although I do harden the lead I shoot in my 32-20. But this is my raccoon rifle and a hard bullet is great for low pelt damage at calling distances. And they are a hoot to shoot at when calling them. Tom.
 
#30
Re: Casting Bullets!

Great thread. Lots of good info. I'm just starting to get into the cast fun and the search for ww has begun.

Quick question tho. What's the story on bismuth based alloy? I picked up a 100 pounds or so since it was free but haven't been able to do slot of reading on it yet.
 
#31
Re: Casting Bullets!

I just picked up 600lbs of spent bullet lead from the range. I was wondering, with the amount of copper in here, I could sell the copper and get more reloading equipment. It is like a coupon to me!

I am getting more ww too, but will add those to the spent bullet lead. If there is lead, I am there. I am an adict to lead right now. Kids stay away from my lead room! lol
 
#32
Re: Casting Bullets!

You might be able to get a yard to buy the scrap jackets, but bullets are generally made from gilding metal, not copper. The scrap place will probably give you a fraction of the cost of copper prices.

You can usually get soemthing from them, but I've never had much luck with making any money from it. My dad and I dragged a 50lb bucket of jackets down to the scrap place a few years ago to do that exact thing.

The 50lbs of jackets paid for the gas and a coke, but the trip was still worth it from the 2-30gal drums of berdan brass and split cases and spent primers that weighed almost 300 lbs... We didn't shoot all those berdan cases, but anything recycleable was swept off the club range for about 2 years.
 
#34
Re: Casting Bullets!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jpmuscle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great thread. Lots of good info. I'm just starting to get into the cast fun and the search for ww has begun.

Quick question tho. What's the story on bismuth based alloy? I picked up a 100 pounds or so since it was free but haven't been able to do slot of reading on it yet. </div></div>

Try this:
http://www.alchemycastings.com/lead-products/fusible.htm
 
#35
Re: Casting Bullets!

I have had a couple of tumble lube six cavity lee molds over the years. They are a quick way to produce large numbers of cast bullets with minimal labor.

I did not like the lube being all over the bullet, especially the exposed part. The exposed lube attacks dirt. So i now use the traditional bullet mold. The lube groove is covered by the case for a cleaner and neater looking cartridge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MK20
Starting a small casting company - need feedback
Replies
4
Views
301
R_A_W
R_A_W
D
Ice Bullet
Replies
20
Views
643
Conaso
C
Obrez
Firearms (NEW) Pedersoli 1874 Sharps Buffalo, 30", 45-70, full length octagonal barrel w/ (used) RCBS Pro Melt 2 and Saeco M1881 Mould & handles.
Replies
13
Views
1K
Obrez
Obrez
D
Low Budget / Redneck Rifle Weights
Replies
9
Views
594
Mike Casselton
Mike Casselton
K
22GT vs 22BRA vs 22 Dasher and non lead bullets
Replies
6
Views
2K
Kiba
K
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts