Put 600 grit paper on a small ruler or other flat object and sand the raceway. Rub down the inside w some steel wool, plug chamber first. If it’s a new stock, check that an action bolt isn’t making contact w bolt.
or take back to cerakote shop and ask for light microslick inside.
Rarely does the raceway make for an issue. I use rarely in the context of "more likely to be struck by lightening, while being devoured by a great white shark, during a commercial plane crash".
In the case of the M700:
The bolt head/lug features have a height of .445" +0.00/-.002".
The receiver is .450" in height across the raceways. The swept arc on the action is 1.00" to 1.006". The bolts are .993"
In other words, more than ample room for the bolt to function in this area. When they stick/hang up, in almost every circumstance it can be traced to two places. The bore in the rear bridge, or the bore right at the lug abutments. Its very typical for a rear bridge to have a bit of taper. It's also very common for the rear tang of the receiver to pull outward from center slightly. A great deal of material comes off of this feature during manufacturing so its expected/likely to become pushed around a bit from machining. -fwiw, this is a challenge every action manufacturer faces. It is likely why the trend anymore is to make the tang features more and more "blocky" in appearance. Mass ='s stability... The front ring also "morphs" a bit right at the loading ramp.
I only know this because honing it with a qualified tool illustrates it. You see exactly where the high spots are very quickly.
The effort to buff on raceways and whatnot, I get it. however don't fool yourself into thinking its doing anything other than making you feel good by having shiny steel.
As for coatings: (edited, added to this while sucking down black water this am)
If we take a moment and read the publications from Cerakote, they advocate a "1 mil" film thickness of material. 1 mil is just another way of expressing .001" (one thousandths of an inch). The goal of every painter should be to try and adhere to this as much as possible. It's not an easy thing to do as corners and difficult to "hit" features are very susceptible to becoming overly saturated with material during the spray process.
That said, going "light" is, in my experience, not the best answer. That will almost certainly result in dry spraying the material. In other words, the stuff is partially "dry" in the air as it leaves the paint gun and heads towards the part. It lands on the substrate "tacky". This results in it failing to wet out and latch onto the "tooth" created during the blasting prep. It'll be gritty, chalky, and wear off with very little effort once put into service.
-another edit: One thing to always be aware of with any of the NIC C/K products is that the stuff is not "paint". A reasonable analogy is we take Gramma's fine china and pulverize it to dust. Then ad a very, very low viscosity epoxy to it. There is a carrier in there as well. Basically, something that sorta behaves like reducer in conventional paint. It gets it to flow from the gun and wet out on the surface. The fact C/K goes on wet/shiny and flashes to its final sheen proves this to us. If you don't have the right "jetting" in the paint gun, the shit comes out like a million little balls that have a skin on em. That is the dry spray condition.
The key here is preparing parts correctly well in advance of ever applying material. On that note, keeping a close eye on abrasive erosion and working out a schedule for replacing it is a big deal as well. AO/Garnett/Star blast, they all have an expiration date as the grit will break down over time. Fresh media preps metal radically different from old stuff. Its important for anyone applying C/K to understand this.
Hope this helps.
