Hey guys I'm looking to purchase a new chainsaw hopefully soon and was wondering a good brand and why you would recomend it. I only use a saw occasionally but I want a good one, I'm tired of junk. I'm considering husqvarna, stihl, or johnsteer (spelling?) in a 16"-20" for clearing shooting lanes, removing brush, cutting trees for firewood, just general purpose occasional use. If you had one saw what would it be?
- Thread starter Icewater
- Start date
Stihl....anything else is inferior
Another vote for Stihl
Remember, NOBODY liked Husqvarna.
I've got a Shihl and it's worked good for me.
Stihl.
I used to cut professionally and Husqy's and Johnsreds (?) are ok if you are only cutting softwoods, pine, fir, etc, but if your cutting hardwood like oak or hickory theydont hold up. Additionally, Stihl's are only sold by factory authorized service centers while you can buy a Husqy in Lowes, but no service.
I used to cut professionally and Husqy's and Johnsreds (?) are ok if you are only cutting softwoods, pine, fir, etc, but if your cutting hardwood like oak or hickory theydont hold up. Additionally, Stihl's are only sold by factory authorized service centers while you can buy a Husqy in Lowes, but no service.
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Stihl fo sho.
agreed +1 in 20 inch.
Don't waste your time and money on anything other than a Stihl.
Some suggestions, without knowing where your located, and at what altitude. I would not get anything smaller than a MS-362 using a 20" bar. It's a professional series saw, which will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. You'll spend more money on a pro saw, but where that comes in handy is it will have a better power to weight ratio, thus less tiring on your body if you're out there cutting for a full day. You can go with a non-Pro saw to save money, but you will have to pay for the savings in time and energy.
If you want to go with a 16" bar, look for a used 024-AVS. My Dad bought the one I have new back in the early 80's. It still runs as if new, and is my main limbing saw, but has a power to weight ratio that can't be beat by nothing but my MS-440 Magnum.
Don't use fuel with Ethanol. If you can't buy Premium fuel without that added crap, then spend the extra bucks and buy cans of True-Fuel, which is a premix that you can buy that's either 40:1 or 50:1 mix ratio. The new Stihl's are designed to use the 50:1 mix. Some WalMarts carry it, and most Stihl dealers are now carrying it in addition to Ace Hardware.
As mentioned above, the Chisel tooth chains are great cutters, but if you have the tendency of getting the tip of the bar/chain in the dirt, cutting dirty wood or brush, I would suggest the RM chains. The RM chains stay sharper much longer
Chains; don't buy safety chains (green painted link), they don't cut worth a damn. They're designed to reduce kick-back, and you'll need to learn to operate the saw safely before attempting any serious work anyway. If you buy a new saw, ask that they give you a non-safety chain, and buy a spare also. ...and a file for sharpening.
Keep the chain sharp, immediately touch it up after hitting dirt or the ground. If you touch it up every third or fourth use, it will go a long time before requiring a professional sharpening.
Keep your air filter clean of chips and sawdust. This will allow the saw to run better. The new Stihl's have a redesigned air box filter (they copied Husky) and stays cleaner much longer.
Dump the old fuel out of the tank before using it for the first time that season.
Keep the saw in the shade when it's not running, while your working. The new saws don't release the pressure from expanding fuel when sitting in the hot sun, and causes vapor licks that sometimes make the saw difficult to start again. I usually open the fuel cap, and release the pressure before trying to start it again.
Buy safety chaps, I had a recoiling limb push my saw into my knee, and lucky it was a glancing blow with minor cuts. Since then, I've been saved several times - life and limb wearing my safety chaps. It's stops the chain instantly if it hits your legs.
Some suggestions, without knowing where your located, and at what altitude. I would not get anything smaller than a MS-362 using a 20" bar. It's a professional series saw, which will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. You'll spend more money on a pro saw, but where that comes in handy is it will have a better power to weight ratio, thus less tiring on your body if you're out there cutting for a full day. You can go with a non-Pro saw to save money, but you will have to pay for the savings in time and energy.
If you want to go with a 16" bar, look for a used 024-AVS. My Dad bought the one I have new back in the early 80's. It still runs as if new, and is my main limbing saw, but has a power to weight ratio that can't be beat by nothing but my MS-440 Magnum.
Don't use fuel with Ethanol. If you can't buy Premium fuel without that added crap, then spend the extra bucks and buy cans of True-Fuel, which is a premix that you can buy that's either 40:1 or 50:1 mix ratio. The new Stihl's are designed to use the 50:1 mix. Some WalMarts carry it, and most Stihl dealers are now carrying it in addition to Ace Hardware.
As mentioned above, the Chisel tooth chains are great cutters, but if you have the tendency of getting the tip of the bar/chain in the dirt, cutting dirty wood or brush, I would suggest the RM chains. The RM chains stay sharper much longer
Chains; don't buy safety chains (green painted link), they don't cut worth a damn. They're designed to reduce kick-back, and you'll need to learn to operate the saw safely before attempting any serious work anyway. If you buy a new saw, ask that they give you a non-safety chain, and buy a spare also. ...and a file for sharpening.
Keep the chain sharp, immediately touch it up after hitting dirt or the ground. If you touch it up every third or fourth use, it will go a long time before requiring a professional sharpening.
Keep your air filter clean of chips and sawdust. This will allow the saw to run better. The new Stihl's have a redesigned air box filter (they copied Husky) and stays cleaner much longer.
Dump the old fuel out of the tank before using it for the first time that season.
Keep the saw in the shade when it's not running, while your working. The new saws don't release the pressure from expanding fuel when sitting in the hot sun, and causes vapor licks that sometimes make the saw difficult to start again. I usually open the fuel cap, and release the pressure before trying to start it again.
Buy safety chaps, I had a recoiling limb push my saw into my knee, and lucky it was a glancing blow with minor cuts. Since then, I've been saved several times - life and limb wearing my safety chaps. It's stops the chain instantly if it hits your legs.
Stihl without a doubt ! They start all the time even if they sit for a year, can't say that about many gas powered tools.
Stihl
All the huskies I've ever owned have shit the bed
All the huskies I've ever owned have shit the bed
I have had good luck with Echo saws, one with a 24" bar and one with a 16".
I bought them to replace a Stihl on the farm that was problematic.
Now I know it was from poor fuel choices and oil additives like the new Husqy that was killed by my lack of knowledge of ethanol fuel.
I bought them to replace a Stihl on the farm that was problematic.
Now I know it was from poor fuel choices and oil additives like the new Husqy that was killed by my lack of knowledge of ethanol fuel.
I used others but I own Stihl saws and axes. While Stihl does make good saws in their "professional" grade, some of their regular saws are marginal so if you do go the Stihl route, pay the extra money for the professional models. In terms of size, that all depends on size of tree and type as has already been mentioned, hardwoods will kill a marginal saw in no time. Better to run a larger saw with a smaller bar if you can. I use a MS261 for the regular stuff and pull out the 660 on large oak trees. All I burn is white oak so it comes in handy; however, if you are just clearing lanes you could do well with a 261. I keep mine in a Pelican 1780 so I keep it all in one place and have whatever I need. I you clean them thoroughly after each use, they will stay looking new and will last you for a very long time. People give me grief because I tear mine apart and clean them every time I use them but I am OCD that way
Oh and by the way, if you are new to the saw thing, don't forget the basic safety gear that can save you a lot of pain if you happen to screw up.
Oh and by the way, if you are new to the saw thing, don't forget the basic safety gear that can save you a lot of pain if you happen to screw up.Attachments
I bought a Dolmar 6400 w/24" bar. This is a German made saw and it performs great. It always starts (hot/warm/cold) better than any other brand I have owned or operated. Makita bought them a couple of years ago so you can get it in their configurations and color. I like the Dolmar offerings better.
Mine is 3 year old and I'll never buy anything but Dolmar. Weight, balance and ergos are great too!
Mine is 3 year old and I'll never buy anything but Dolmar. Weight, balance and ergos are great too!
STIHL nuff said! Been using them for ~ 40 years, very dependable. Just make sure if you're using ethanol gas that you treat it, that crap eats up small engines. Also run premium gas with your mix, it DOES make a difference!
Stihl is the best and considered the best. My buddy and I cut a lot of wood. We use two Stihls and I do own an Echo that is not as heavy but has given me several seasons with no problems and is much lighter to carry around. Especially when you have to get it into close quarters. For occasional use the Echo isn't bad.
I used others but I own Stihl saws and axes. While Stihl does make good saws in their "professional" grade, some of their regular saws are marginal so if you do go the Stihl route, pay the extra money for the professional models. In terms of size, that all depends on size of tree and type as has already been mentioned, hardwoods will kill a marginal saw in no time. Better to run a larger saw with a smaller bar if you can. I use a MS261 for the regular stuff and pull out the 660 on large oak trees. All I burn is white oak so it comes in handy; however, if you are just clearing lanes you could do well with a 261. I keep mine in a Pelican 1780 so I keep it all in one place and have whatever I need. I you clean them thoroughly after each use, they will stay looking new and will last you for a very long time. People give me grief because I tear mine apart and clean them every time I use them but I am OCD that way
I'm pretty anal about keeping my saws clean also, I'm running 20" bar on my 440, and 24" on my 660. Love the power with those combo's of bar lengths.
I have a 360 pro that doesn't get cleaned that often, and use that for most of the dirty work, like those damn Fir's that are just dripping with sap.
I also run a 24" bar on my 660 as the 36" it came with is little overkill in my area unless we run into a large eucalyptus tree and I need the reach. The down side for us is that we can't take a standing oak that is dead, if its not already on the ground we are "not suppose" to take it. Cutting back home in Wyoming at my folks place is not much better as the damn beetles have decimated the trees. One good thing about wildfires out here, it opens up the area for folks to come in and clear out the wood. Going up in a few weeks to clear 6 acres of old oak so that should fill up the old wood pile for the winter.
Edit - To the OP, here is link that will give you a world of info and help you decide what you may need: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/
And if you want to order some nice safety gear: http://www.arbortecforestwear.com/ While I use Stihl chaps and stuff, I did order a pair of boots from arbortec last year (sold in England) and they have been outstanding http://www.arbortecforestwear.com/fellhunter-xpert-class-3-boot.html a little expensive but they are great
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I've always had stihls but I don't think they are what they used to be. My ms280 plastic cover breaks, the fasteners get loose and one if them went in the impeller and broke some fins off that. The stupid plug type gas caps get out of kilter and don't want to go on. It will flood if it doesn't start after 3 or 4 pulls and then it won't start at all until you take the plug out and dry it.
Now I use mine pretty hard, I burn wood for heat in the winter, but this saw isn't half the stihl saw that my dad cut wood with for 25 years. Literally, same saw for 25 years. My ms 280 is 8 years old and is about done.
My next saw will be a dolmar. It has half the plastic parts, starts easier, and overall seems more like the old stihls than the new stihls do.
I think stihl is resting on its name a little.
Now I use mine pretty hard, I burn wood for heat in the winter, but this saw isn't half the stihl saw that my dad cut wood with for 25 years. Literally, same saw for 25 years. My ms 280 is 8 years old and is about done.
My next saw will be a dolmar. It has half the plastic parts, starts easier, and overall seems more like the old stihls than the new stihls do.
I think stihl is resting on its name a little.
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I had heard the word Stihl associated with the best chainsaws all my life. With that in mind I went the a dealer 10 years ago with the idea of purchasing 3 saws. Was greeted by a sales person and stated I wanted the best chainsaws they had and money was no object. When he passed over the Stihl line and pointed me towards the Echo I questioned him about this he said with Stihl's you are paying for the name now days and they weren't the machines they used to be. I took his advice and walked out with 3 Echo's and have had zero problems with them in the 10 years I have had them. You simply apply the choke, give it a couple tugs on the rope, take the choke off, pull the rope again and starting cutting. Being in South Texas I cut mostly Mesquite, Hickory and Oak with them.
Your mileage with vary.
On another note I have a '94 Shindaiwa 488 that's been a great saw but I have stripped out the studs that hold the bar on.
Your mileage with vary.
On another note I have a '94 Shindaiwa 488 that's been a great saw but I have stripped out the studs that hold the bar on.
I would look at a Husky 550XP (or 346XP if you can find one) with a 16" or 18" bar and 3/8 pitch chain. Stihl pro saws are fine but when you need parts it is a PITA and they are expensive. Husky makes an equally good saw and you can order Husky parts online.
In the last 45 years I've had 3 Homelites and 2 Poulans. If I get another it'll either be a Stihl or Husky. Which ever, it will be professional grade.
Above all thing, when you finish using it, empty the gas tank and run the engine to get the gas out of the carb. Always treat your gas.
Good luck,
Victor
Above all thing, when you finish using it, empty the gas tank and run the engine to get the gas out of the carb. Always treat your gas.
Good luck,
Victor
I like stihl and run their 362
I bought a Husqy 455 Rancher 8 years ago. 55cc, 20" bar. I just use it for cutting up firewood (mostly lodgepole, and doug fir), about 5 cords per year. So far it has ran perfectly. No complaints.
Ditto on the Stihl 261! I use an 18" bar, cuts like a wild man! When you buy a new one if you buy a 6 pak of their oil they'll extend the warranty 3 years.
Cheers,
George
Cheers,
George
MontanaMarine- It sure makes it nice cutting up firewood when your logs are already limbed and stacked
I've been known to HURRY into a completed logging unit just as the loggers are headed down the road (not quite, but close)! I have two places to cut firewood for, so probably cut in the neighborhood of 12-15 cords a year. I'll take easy pickings ANYTIME with that amount of work to do. All-Do as MontanaMarine is doing and wear your chaps, hearing, AND eye protection. In the past I survived a bruised eyeball from a wood chip, and damn near broke my nose when limbing with a 066 when a limb hit it at Mach III. Felt like I was blasted with a fist.
I like to buy it by the truckload, 14 cords of logs delivered for $1200 last us nearly 4 winters. For that price I prefer to let the guys with the right tools get it off the hill. The cost of gas, wear and tear on myself, truck , etc....it's a good deal having the logs delivered. I can cut/split/stack it at a comfortable pace.
Just used my STIHL today to trim a few hundred branches on a few dozen Russian olive trees. Been NEEDING to do some trimming for about 5 years now. Used a new STIHL tree trimmer but did use my old saw to cut up the bigger stuff and some pine branches off my neighbors pines.
My STIHL is about 20 years old, forget the #, has probably cut up 40-45 cords of wood back in the day. So HAPPY to NOT heat with wood. I enjoy cutting it, but much prefer simply adjusting the thermostat.
STIHL has been good to me, but my saw IS a 20 year old model. If they have dropped quality that's a shame. But...THE corporate formula anymore.
My STIHL is about 20 years old, forget the #, has probably cut up 40-45 cords of wood back in the day. So HAPPY to NOT heat with wood. I enjoy cutting it, but much prefer simply adjusting the thermostat.
STIHL has been good to me, but my saw IS a 20 year old model. If they have dropped quality that's a shame. But...THE corporate formula anymore.
Ten years ago, I'd have said Stihl all day long. No more. As a few others have said, the quality's gone down and they're resting on their laurels. I had to choose between a Stihl, Husqy, and an Echo a little while back. I went with the Echo and am glad I did. It starts easier than my old Stihl, and the chain tension seems to stay tighter longer, meaning less down time. Thus, for my money today, I'd buy another Echo and wait until Stihl's gotten their act together.
STIHL are not worth the extra money, I have Jonsered saws that are over twenty five years old, huskys that are from the early 90'S and saws that are 4 to 5 years old. I have never been impressed with the STIHL that I have used. I normally cut fifteen to twenty cord of hard wood per year and I will stick with huskys and jonsered.
I use to cut a lot of wood and grew up with Huskys and never had a problem; however, I have noticed their quality degrade over time (replacing metal with plastic and so on). I think they are fine in the smaller saws. I currently have two Huskys (16" & 20" bar lengths). I went to a larger Stihl several years ago and it's been great. Also used a lot of small Echos (primarily climbing saws) and they also ran well. I'm probably a little out of experience with the most recent offerings, but I would choose based on the size and as mentioned above type of wood (hard or soft) most likely to be cut.
I've worked in sawmills in Northern B.C; and all we used were Husqvarna 61's. Up there, it was all SPF, but those things ate through the logs. Some of the other mills ran with Stihl, to which they were pretty neck-n-neck. Practically no hardwoods, up there. Birch, if you can call that 'hard'.
But the mileage though, these saws ran, and ran, and ran. Maintain them, and they'll run near forever. Learn how to drive one, to get longevity on your chain. Use PPE. Even the best of us, have scars on our legs from chain-saws.
Learn from others mistakes... nobody starts off as a professional.
But the mileage though, these saws ran, and ran, and ran. Maintain them, and they'll run near forever. Learn how to drive one, to get longevity on your chain. Use PPE. Even the best of us, have scars on our legs from chain-saws.
Learn from others mistakes... nobody starts off as a professional.
I hate to burst your bubble but Husky DOES NOT make an equally good saw. One reason they don't is because you can buy them online and every Home Depot and big box store in the country sells them and can influence the quality of the saw to meet the price point they want to sell them at. If you purchase a new STIHL you must go to a dealer and that dealer must have a mechanic and shop in the store. STIHL is very big on customer service and can take care of you down the road. I do sell them but that is not the purpose of the rant. My FFL dealer sells Husky and hates them, he got a shipment of saws in and 2 out of 12 one model would not start and upon inspection they were missing parts from the factory. Every piece of STIHL equipment is started at the factory and once again before it leaves the store. If I were to get one saw it would be either ms261 or ms362 depending on how large of trees you are cutting. The 362 is a bit large for cutting brush but would be great for larger trees. I personally have a ms211 with a carbide chain for shooting lanes and such anything larger dad has 2 261's, 362, and a 441. The carbide chain is a little pricey but cuts great and can even cut wire and rocks some before dull.
Never go full retard
i didn't read the entire post.
i own a tree service and we run stihls. but, just because the name STIHL is on it doesn't mean it is good. stay away from the homeowner saws. they have an odd number for the middle number; MS270, 290, 310 etc. they are junk. drop the coin and get a pro model. they are twice as expensive for a reason. find an older 026, or 026 PRO. i wouldn't buy a new 261. stay away from the 361. the 362 isn't bad. look for a 360 or 036.
saws aren't bought (for pros anyway) by the bar size. pick a good sizes motorhead with the weight and CCs you want, then a bar size. you can tell me you have an 18" saw. so do i. i can put an 18" bar on a 50cc saw, 59cc, 76cc and 92cc. you just have to tune the carbs for the shorter/longer bars.
just from reading your first post, and you being a homeowner, find a MS260 PRO. then put an 18" bar on.
also, it doesn't matter how bad ass of a saw you have, it wont cut for shit with a dull chain. keep the fucker out of the dirt!
PM me if you have questions.
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older stihls are way better than the new junk they are putting out
i own a tree service and we run stihls. but, just because the name STIHL is on it doesn't mean it is good. stay away from the homeowner saws. they have an odd number for the middle number; MS270, 290, 310 etc. they are junk. drop the coin and get a pro model. they are twice as expensive for a reason. find an older 026, or 026 PRO. i wouldn't buy a new 261. stay away from the 361. the 362 isn't bad. look for a 360 or 036.
saws aren't bought (for pros anyway) by the bar size. pick a good sizes motorhead with the weight and CCs you want, then a bar size. you can tell me you have an 18" saw. so do i. i can put an 18" bar on a 50cc saw, 59cc, 76cc and 92cc. you just have to tune the carbs for the shorter/longer bars.
just from reading your first post, and you being a homeowner, find a MS260 PRO. then put an 18" bar on.
also, it doesn't matter how bad ass of a saw you have, it wont cut for shit with a dull chain. keep the fucker out of the dirt!
PM me if you have questions.
EDIT: edited for more content
older stihls are way better than the new junk they are putting out
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STIHL
I've got 3-011AVTs, 1-028, 1-025, 1-440, 1-660 and a pole saw. Two of the 011s are over 30 years old and I hate to think of the amount of wood they have cut. The worst move Stihl made was to quit making the 011AVT. Had one of the 011s seize up on me in the middle of the night while clearing logging roads during a brush fire someone set on us. Will be replaced with one of the newer top handle limbing saws. Wish I could get another 011.
I've got 3-011AVTs, 1-028, 1-025, 1-440, 1-660 and a pole saw. Two of the 011s are over 30 years old and I hate to think of the amount of wood they have cut. The worst move Stihl made was to quit making the 011AVT. Had one of the 011s seize up on me in the middle of the night while clearing logging roads during a brush fire someone set on us. Will be replaced with one of the newer top handle limbing saws. Wish I could get another 011.
i wouldn't get your hopes with the new 201T. they suck. they get the job done, but they just don't have the balls. you can muscle a 200T and it takes it like a champ. the 201T just doesn't cut it. literally. it seems like stihl mishmashed the 192T and the 200T and the result was the 201T.
i would look for a decent 200T. i have been told by the older guys that the 020t was better than the 200T. i never used an 020, and i think the 200T is the cats meow.
My dad ran husky stuff for as long as I can remember about 25 years on a husky 66. We heated with wood. Saw ran good. He gave it to his brother.
Bought a stihl 441. Runs good the anti vibe makes it super smooth.
I bought a husky 372xp as a comparison. Feels more like a chainsaw.
It's a crap shoot. Get the one you like better. Do check out the vid where they pile up the saw dust on both the Stihl and the husky, till one dies.
Www.arboristsite.com for all the answers.
Bought a stihl 441. Runs good the anti vibe makes it super smooth.
I bought a husky 372xp as a comparison. Feels more like a chainsaw.
It's a crap shoot. Get the one you like better. Do check out the vid where they pile up the saw dust on both the Stihl and the husky, till one dies.
Www.arboristsite.com for all the answers.
Must be nice, when I break down and buy wood out here it goes for 250 for 1/2 cord of oak and closer to LA they are paying close to 400. Good thing I only use wood in the winter when it rains to make the house cozy.
That's awfully expensive, but not a surprise considering location.
i have both a stihl and a husky. i love the stihl. husky is ok but do your self a favor and buy the stihl. i cut about 12 cords a year and the stihl has no problems. like they say
buy once cry once.
buy once cry once.
Thanks again guys for all the good advice. A few posts in I was stihl all the way but I think I have to take a look at echo and especially dolmar, which has me very curious, I had never heard of them and there is a dealer close to my house so I have to check them out. Great pics from Montana, I could so live there, drive cattle on horseback and cut wood. I live in Minnesota, our trees aren't as big as the northwest but we have a variety from softer pines and poplars to harder oaks.
I watched a chainsaw safety vid on YouTube that educated me quite a bit on chainsaw safety since I am a beginner. If anyone has any good ones please post. I'll be sure to come back and ask questions if I need to, matching power head with bar size, chain type, ext...
I live in Minnesota, our trees aren't as big as the northwest but we have a variety from softer pines and poplars to harder oaks. I watched a chainsaw safety vid on YouTube that educated me quite a bit on chainsaw safety since I am a beginner. If anyone has any good ones please post. I'll be sure to come back and ask questions if I need to, matching power head with bar size, chain type, ext...
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