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Chamber Rem 700 SA .223 Rem to .223 Wylde??

HeavyAssault

Dog-Face One-Horse Pony-Soldier (AVN RGT)
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 14, 2011
    3,369
    6,221
    Florida
    I'm not sure of the specific terminology so give me a pass. I'd like to have my 700 in .223 Rem changed to a .223 Wylde chamber. I'd think it's possible but would it be the best option?? Thanks.
     
    In all likelihood you probably could run 5.56 now. Factory rems have long ass throats (like a Wylde or 5.56) and it’s probably a sloppy enough chamber the necks big too.

    I would much prefer you remage it, I think it would be a better use of your funds unless you have a budy or something.
     
    So I could get someone to gage it and see where it sits. Then explore options to what it would take to get the 5.56 to work. How about that idea??
     
    Measure existing chamber, determine freebore present in current chamber.
    You might be fine as is.
    Easy to take measurement, workng from an informed position is always mo' better.
     
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    Remage is basically a new barrel with threads for a barrel nut like a savage but on Remington. Really it’s 600 for the barrel tools and parts. But 150 will be tools however you can do it in your garage.

    So I could get someone to gage it and see where it sits. Then explore options to what it would take to get the 5.56 to work. How about that idea??
    You could. Do you reload at all? If so you can find the distance to the lands and see just how long it is.

    Are you wanting to run 55 or 77 gr 5.56? Your barrel twist can limit your abilities, 223 is generally 9 twist max which is good for 69 gr so 77s would be non compatible. 12 twist will max out around 60 gr so 55s should stabilize in anything.

    Got ya. I would have never expected a factory .223 chamber could have that much "excess" space.
    My factory rem chamber had me seating bullets to the lands that were at or longer than my Wylde chamber.

    5.56 operates at higher pressure, the chamber body is the same as a 223, the neck and freebore is a bit wider and the distance to where the rifling starts is further away as well which all allows more space for gases to go and relive what would be the over pressure. My factory barrel had plenty of space for 77s, just didn’t have the twist for them.
     
    Sorry, I haven't gotten into the reloading end of the pool. LOL

    It's a 1:9 and it seems .223 in 69gr seem to be a great round. I just find 5.56 in 69gr in the brands that are good to go so I wanted to use them.
     
    I shot a bunch of 5.56 in my 700, I speculate, as I don’t have any direct evidence, that it wore out my firing pin from blowing primers. I got lots of misfires and swapped pins. I don’t remember seeing blown primers, but I wasn’t looking for them either. But my pin definitely looked odd. I’m going to pass on shooting anymore 5.56 out of my bolt gun.
     
    In reading this: When primers are truly blown, this is almost always a sign of high pressure, but it does not necessarily mean the ammo is to blame. Dave Emary, Hornady's chief ballistics scientist, says excessive headspace can cause primers to back out or even pop out completely. There can be other culprits, like a rifle chamber cut very tightly, a throat cut too short or a barrel with a tight bore. On rare occasions, the cartridge brass might not have been properly annealed. Temperature can also be an issue, and this was my suspicion.

    It sounds like your issue was a "misuse" of 5.56 in a .223 chamber. That's why I was asking about what can happen with the .223 chamber to make sure it was GTG for 5.56.
     
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    Clearance in neck area of chamber so case can properly release bullet, freebore length and freebore diameter are going to have largest influence.
    Above is with the assumption that head space is correct.
     
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    In reading this: When primers are truly blown, this is almost always a sign of high pressure, but it does not necessarily mean the ammo is to blame. Dave Emary, Hornady's chief ballistics scientist, says excessive headspace can cause primers to back out or even pop out completely. There can be other culprits, like a rifle chamber cut very tightly, a throat cut too short or a barrel with a tight bore. On rare occasions, the cartridge brass might not have been properly annealed. Temperature can also be an issue, and this was my suspicion.

    It sounds like your issue was a "misuse" of 5.56 in a .223 chamber. That's why I was asking about what can happen with the .223 chamber to make sure it was GTG for 5.56.
    Exactly. That’s where the Wylde chamber comes in. Shooting 5.56 was not fatal in my .223. I am of the opinion that it will wear out stuff. Just stick to .223 ammo and you’re good to go. Or get the Wylde chamber and run it all.
     
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    Ackley isn’t worth the extra cost in dies, IMHO, BTDT.
    Set up a 223 reamer for bullet you want, find a mag system that supports the needed OAL, you’ll be money ahead in long run.
    Done more than my fair share of wildcatting and shooting Ackley Improved chambers but to each his own.
     
    I would like to say I'm not looking to hand load. What I'm finding is factory ammo in the 68gr 5.5.6, and 69gr in 5.56 SMK. If I can just get one round, that works good/great in both my ARs and the 700 I would be happy since I can buy it in a larger quantity. Yes, I realize a AR will/may shoot the round somewhat different over the 700 but I'm not trying to keep cloverleafs on the targets using all the different rifles. All this talk is making me realize I need to memorize my setups and their barrel twists again.

    I'll see who I can find in my local area that can do the 700 inspection so I'll know what I'm dealing with in the chamber.
     
    I’m surprised no one has said this yet: many times 5.56 isn’t as accurate....even in true 5.56 guns. I’ve shot quite a bit of true 5.56 in my KAC’s. Often, Federal GMM in 69 or 77 is more accurate. Hornady TAP in 5.56 is BARELY MOA in the best guns. I have shot 5.56 and .223 in multiple rifles. I can’t recall 5.56 ever being MORE accurate.