Chassis painting questions

[Scratchthejeepguy]

I'm thinking about doing a paint job on my bolt action. Not so much for hunting but just because I have too many all black rifles. I'd like to either just go with an FDE color or possibly some sort of camo pattern. I just want to do the chassis though, not the barrel, action, bolt, bipod, magazine, scope or mount. It's an XLR Carbon chassis. In the future I might start Cerakoting and will probably redo it then.

My questions are:

1. I hear a lot about Krylon camo paint. Does the Krylon brand have some way better properties than the Rustoleum camo paint brand?

2. Do I need to prime before I paint?

3. Prep work, should I scuff first?

4. I have all the Rustoleum camo line except the black, but I have Rustoleums flat black. That should be the same as their camo black right?

5. Cleaning solvents. How easily will they remove the paint?

6. I was thinking about spraying a matte clear over it when done. Is it necessary?

 

[Captain Kirk]

Its a good idea to work on your skills and get a color and pattern down using a aerosol, any kind will do. You hear Krylon since its what most will call any kind of paint, like a Q tip when in fact that is a brand. You need to determine what type of paint job you plan to do, a stencil job using masking tape or a sponge job, but both require a base coat. Prep work is key, so a good cleaning with solvent is important to remove all the oils from the chassis and action, you can use a light solvent like alcohol. There are adhesion promoters in aerosol form which are basically clear primers, such as Bulldog. A base primer will allow the paint to adhere to the surface better and last longer.

The great thing about rattle can jobs is they can be easily stripped and redone, or removed to do a permanent paint job with cerakote or similar paint.

here are a few krylon jobs

 

[Scratchthejeepguy]

Thanks for the tips kirk, those camo jobs look awesome!

If I do a camp job, it'll be using pine needles as stencils. But I may just go all one color like a Khaki color.

Should I scuff the chassis before I prime though?

And what about cleaning solvents, will they eat through the paint right away?

 

[Captain Kirk]

No need to rough it up, just clean it well. I have even used gasoline and a tooth brush, it eats the paint FAST and since it is petroleum based its not too aggressive.

 

[hypno02]

Kirk's given some great advice. I have krylon'd a lot of my rifles and it's very simple to do, and very simple to remove. I think covered just about everything. I'll add that before I paint I use acetone to clean whatever I'm painting.(Acetone will also work for paint removal.) A clear coat will give the chassis a very shiny look. If you want the finish to last longer, go for it. I personally wouldn't as I don't like my stuff looking shiny. Also, just the normal paint will also start looking shiny in heavily 'touched' areas such as the forearm and grip. Nothin a little extra paint won't fix.

 

[Captain Kirk]

they also make a matte clear as well, the key to avoid it being shiny like with many paints is to apply many thin coats. Both stocks in the pics above have a matte clear on them

 

[Gman021]

Here's my old XLR. I just used Khaki Krylon Camo from Amazon. I barely did any prep. Just rubbed things down with acetone, then clear coated it. Held up very well.

 

[Scratchthejeepguy]

Gman, did you peel off the foam on the cheek riser then put it back on, or just tape around it?

 

[Gman021]

Gman, did you peel off the foam on the cheek riser then put it back on, or just tape around it?

Taped around.