Choosing dies?

RickyRodney

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May 4, 2014
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So I recently started reloading .308 and have been pleased with my success. Now I wish to get a .260AI barrel for my DTA and want to choose the best set of dies. I have and use RCBS comp microseater die currently and want to do more to control neck tension. Any pointers?
 
If your biggest interest is in controlling or varying neck tension you will need to get a bushing die and choose the bushing that best suites the brass you are using or the other possibility is to have the neck of a die honed to the specs you want.
The bushing die would obviously give more flexibility.
 
Thank you very much for the advice. The competition set of dies is $415 on Brownells. Is there a decent return on investment, in terms of performance for practical reloading?
 
Bushing dies create ammo with excessive runout. They cause more problems than they solve.

I use/have used a variety of dies. I keep going back to a combination of Redding body die plus Lee collet neck die. Cheap and effective. Super straight ammo.
 
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If you're getting run out with bushing dies then you're doing something seriously wrong or you're using shitty dies and bushings. With Redding bushing dies and nitride bushings on my Co-Ax the sized brass is coming out with almost zero runout, under .001". Sometimes the needle on the indicator doesn't even move. You're not going to produce straighter brass and this has been the norm across all of the Redding Type S die sets I've used.
 
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Thank you very much for the advice. The competition set of dies is $415 on Brownells. Is there a decent return on investment, in terms of performance for practical reloading?

If you really want bushings then the type s match bushing full 2 die set would be the way to go, 2 Die Redding Type S Set
Its only 290 vs the 415 to separate out the neck and body sizing from one another in the three die sets as linked in prior post. I wouldnt want a third die for an increase of 125 bucks and an additional case handling step. Thats more money and time for the same end product.

The ai aspect really drives up the price and down the number of options, I almost choked when I realized how much dies for that chambering cost.


Edit: Wait, you have an rcbs comp seater? For this 260ai or the 308? Im going to guess 308 since I cant find alisting for a 260ai from them.
Just to make clear though, the neck tension is effected in the sizing step, the seater shouldnt (cant) be controlling your neck tension.
 
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No I have the RCBS comp seater for .308 and was just stating what I'm currently using. The full size resize die in the kit I think doesn't size the necks consistently and I would like more control.

I almost choked too! I had to check with the wizards of reloading on the forum to find out what I should do.
 
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I bet it sizes them perfectly consistently but your necks are all uneven in thickness and hardness (and in turn spring back) which is leading to your uneven results. That expander ball isnt changing its size each round. Good brass and annealing can help.

That said using a bushing so that you are moving the brass less sure wont hurt getting more uniform results. I just dont want you to think that one simple factor is all that makes up the final result.
 
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The set of Redding Type S match bushing dies with micrometer on the seating and sizing die I only paid $165 dollars for in 65 Creedmoor from Midsouth so you may want to shop around a little bit.

I like to use Brownells and Midway and have for years but they are not the most competitive when you start looking around.
 
If you're getting run out with bushing dies then you're doing something seriously wrong or you're using shitty dies and bushings. With Redding bushing dies and nitride bushings on my Co-Ax the sized brass is coming out with almost zero runout, under .001". Sometimes the needle on the indicator doesn't even move. You're not going to produce straighter brass and this has been the norm across all of the Redding Type S die sets I've used.

Just because you haven’t seen any runout does not mean this is true across the board.
 
Micrometer dies are nice but totally unnecessary. The real benefit is if you are loading multiple projectiles in the same case. Once you settle on a load, buy enough of the projectiles to burn out your barrel (all same lot), and weld (j/k) the darn die in the same spot. You will only adjust the die when setting it up. Now, if you have to have (i.e. must have what the cool kids have) a micrometer seater, then get the Forester. It's much nicer than the Redding. As for a bushing die, get the Redding.