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Christensen Modern Precision Rifle

godofthunder said:
Did you use a bandsaw for this? Care to share your process?
Click to expand...
Table saw and miter saw.. band saw would work though.. it’s a little tricky as the side slots do not line up with the bottom so I
first cut the hand guard to the length I wanted. Used miter saw for this. You want to do this first so that the material is supported all around. I cut it right between 2 bottom slots..
Second tilt your blade to a 45 cut from top down to the back side of side slot. You have to make this cut twice as the blade will not make it to top of slot on backside. Blade will have to be tilted to other side and spin piec around.
Then I set the gate of my table saw so that when o run the piece through, it cuts just at the edge of the bend.
Chamfer/ease all edges with 400 grit wet sand paper.
IMG_2972.png
 
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fatmat27 said:
I was excited to have finally found a MPR chassis. Sadly I did not read up enough to know that it won't accept oversize recoil lugs. I had a Tenacity/Proof ready to drop into it. Has anyone milled out the recoil-lug-inlet on the MPR chassis?
Click to expand...
How thick is the tenacity? I had read this but my origin dropped in yesterday and I measured the lug at .2505”
 
Crgchck said:
Table saw and miter saw.. band saw would work though.. it’s a little tricky as the side slots do not line up with the bottom so I
first cut the hand guard to the length I wanted. Used miter saw for this. You want to do this first so that the material is supported all around. I cut it right between 2 bottom slots..
Second tilt your blade to a 45 cut from top down to the back side of side slot. You have to make this cut twice as the blade will not make it to top of slot on backside. Blade will have to be tilted to other side and spin piec around.
Then I set the gate of my table saw so that when o run the piece through, it cuts just at the edge of the bend.
Chamfer/ease all edges with 400 grit wet sand paper.View attachment 8362632
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ll use a band saw (it’s all I have). Just want to shorten the length for my barrel and make a notch for the rail on my Origin.

I was worried about the edge fraying or epoxy splintering along the cut edges.
 
godofthunder said:
Thanks, I’ll use a band saw (it’s all I have). Just want to shorten the length for my barrel and make a notch for the rail on my Origin.

I was worried about the edge fraying or epoxy splintering along the cut edges.
Click to expand...
Use blue painters tape to center your cut line on, then cut through the middle of the tape. Then while the tape is still on the pieces, use some sand paper and smooth the edges down. Not sure what type of resin to use to seal the ends up, but maybe @christensenarms can tell you.
 
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FuhQ said:
Use blue painters tape to center your cut line on, then cut through the middle of the tape. Then while the tape is still on the pieces, use some sand paper and smooth the edges down. Not sure what type of resin to use to seal the ends up, but maybe @christensenarms can tell you.
Click to expand...
I actually ended up doing exactly this, except for sealing the edges. I wet sanded it some after the cuts I made - I had to shorten it some for my 16.5" 6 arc barrel and cut out a spot for my Origin's rail - and I didn't really feel like where I cut needed sealed. Maybe I will down the line I don't know. I might just make an aluminum handguard for this instead.
 
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godofthunder said:
I actually ended up doing exactly this, except for sealing the edges. I wet sanded it some after the cuts I made - I had to shorten it some for my 16.5" 6 arc barrel and cut out a spot for my Origin's rail - and I didn't really feel like where I cut needed sealed. Maybe I will down the line I don't know. I might just make an aluminum handguard for this instead.
Click to expand...
Just my opinion, but I feel the carbon is impregnated with resin. I did not feel the need to seal afterwards. The wet sand is a must to ease the edges to prevent chipping or future splintering. As far as cutting the slot for rail, that will be hard to do with bandsaw. The only other advice I have is to drill a 3/16” to the inside corner of the slot so that the outside of the bit just reaches the outside lines. That will give you a small radius in the corners and prevent cracking.. if you want to tape it off, mark where you want it cut, and send to me, I’d me more than happy to do it for you and send back
@godofthunder
Edit: sorry I see now you’ve already done it.. some how thought that was 2 different people.. glad it worked out for you.
 
Still no update on my 7 PRC MPR that is currently in for warranty work. I no longer work for the Warranty Center here in Canada so we will see how that effects the length of the work :p
 
Tengo1 said:
Used my MPR to take 2nd place in the Utah Summer Games 1,000 yard steel plate challenge. Felt good to earn a Silver medal with a factory gun against a group of competitors mostly shooting $4,000 custom rifles in wildcat calibers.

View attachment 8401072
View attachment 8401073
Click to expand...
Awesome job Tengo1!!!! You have an awesome support group and cheer section to help you out!!!
 
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