- Thread starter Devanzo
- Start date
We’ve got a magnetospeed and an old pro chrono we’ve had forever and I find myself using the old PC way more…so much more I can’t remember the last time I used the MS. I bought it thinking it would be more accurate but after testing the two side by side for a while I figured out the only difference is I find the MS is a pain in the ass to deal with. If you don’t have room to set up a chrono I can see where it would be preferable.
ProChrono DLX: ~$150 + tripod.
Magnetospeed V3: ~$400
LabRadar: ~ $600 + stand + case
Magnetospeed V3: ~$400
LabRadar: ~ $600 + stand + case
The first is good if you infrequently use it. It doesn't affect POI. Pain to set up.
Second can be easy to set up. Usually affects POI. Muzzle break can be an issue with mounting.
Third is easy to set up, usually. Can have issues on a busy range. Doesn't affect POI.
I feel you'll find a Prochrono very satisfactory for your budget.What kinda chronograph should I get I’m not trying to go broke buying one cause I’m already poorso if y’all have budget suggestions I’d love to hear em
I've had one, but now use the more expensive ones . . . mostly because they're more convenient to set up and use. Oh yes . . . I actually did shoot my Prochrono dead.
The Shooting Chrony was a great starter chrony. If you shot it, they would fix it for free.You couldn’t pay me $98 to use a Chrony!
It's important to consider exactly what you want a chronograph for. It is not critical to load development. It can only look at one aspect of your reloading and that is consistency of your ammunition. Even with that, unless you are shooting at ranges beyond 5-600yds will it really become helpful. Knowing your velocity is helpful when shooting at longer ranges but it is not as critical as actual dope. Standard deviation can be helpful in understanding how consistent you loading process but it takes more than just measuring 3 or 5 shots to properly interpret SD.What kinda chronograph should I get I’m not trying to go broke buying one cause I’m already poor
Results on target are what matter.
I love the ProChrono DLX too! He will do his job well!
I have a Magnetospeed for my precision and long distance rifles. The nice thing about my DLX is I can use it for everything else I shoot. AR 15's, pistols, whatever. Plus if I'm at the range, other people can use the DLX with no fuss since it doesn't have to be fitted to their rifle. It's nice to have both depending on what you're doing.
The best chrony is the one you don't shoot. (Don't hit it and break it. Seen that lots, even did it once).
Window type chrony are cheapest, easiest to get into, however on a gun range are annoying if it's a public range, as you have to walk forward of the shooting line to put it out.. often requires range closure, etc..
Magnetospeed are a different option which clamps to your barrel, unless you get another upgrade to get it to clamp to arca / pic rail, etc. Any sort of accuracy testing while clamped to the barrel can be hit or miss. Velo is great, accuracy will suffer as you have a weight on the barrel. Also basically not compatible with pistols, and some rimfires have issues from barrel size, so requires some... Creative ideas.
Labradar is a simple setup and usually work. Some people have issues with them triggering, but do work when setup. Batteries SUCK, so you need a USB brick to power it.
Multiple people at the range can give weird results sometimes when it triggers off their shot.. 10,000fps, etc...
There's others, however cheap entry, basically any "cheap" window chrony will do. You also get what you pay for.
Note: chrony's are accurate to THEMSELVES. If you do load dev for velo on chrony brand X, do all of it on that. Don't do some, then borrow a mates or the club/ ranges hire unit. They will read different.
Window type chrony are cheapest, easiest to get into, however on a gun range are annoying if it's a public range, as you have to walk forward of the shooting line to put it out.. often requires range closure, etc..
Magnetospeed are a different option which clamps to your barrel, unless you get another upgrade to get it to clamp to arca / pic rail, etc. Any sort of accuracy testing while clamped to the barrel can be hit or miss. Velo is great, accuracy will suffer as you have a weight on the barrel. Also basically not compatible with pistols, and some rimfires have issues from barrel size, so requires some... Creative ideas.
Labradar is a simple setup and usually work. Some people have issues with them triggering, but do work when setup. Batteries SUCK, so you need a USB brick to power it.
Multiple people at the range can give weird results sometimes when it triggers off their shot.. 10,000fps, etc...
There's others, however cheap entry, basically any "cheap" window chrony will do. You also get what you pay for.
Note: chrony's are accurate to THEMSELVES. If you do load dev for velo on chrony brand X, do all of it on that. Don't do some, then borrow a mates or the club/ ranges hire unit. They will read different.
Ok, I've had a lot of folks recommend I use a Chrono to accurately measure my rounds because I have noticed a substantial increase in bullet Velocity (300-400 fps) during the Barrel Break-in Period (200-250 Rounds) and after dialing back my Gas substantially. I started looking at various Chronographs and all the problems associated with them and decided not to purchase at this time because it appears they each have their own issues. Instead, I'm going to continue to reverse engineer my Velocity by using ShootersCalculator unless someone can point me to a better all-around Ballistic Calculator that has a decent user interface. The bottom-line is that I was shocked to see how much the bullet Velocity changed but, after conversing with another PSA PA65 owner, he too experienced significant Velocity shifts during the initial Barrel Break-in period. Any one else experience this or is it something particular to PSA rifles?
15-30fps? Most commonly.
If you found a 3-400 fps difference in barrel break in you either A) most likely just fucked up or B) how can you quantify that if you’ve chosen to skip the one tool that would allow you to accurately quantify that.
Notice that A and B are really the same thing. You have zero data collected and are basing assumptions off of that body of data.
If you found a 3-400 fps difference in barrel break in you either A) most likely just fucked up or B) how can you quantify that if you’ve chosen to skip the one tool that would allow you to accurately quantify that.
Notice that A and B are really the same thing. You have zero data collected and are basing assumptions off of that body of data.
Or C, I actually did collect data (Group POI vs POA at 100 Yds and 200 Yds) and plugged into Ballistic Calculator. It seems very odd to me too but another PSA PA65 owner has stated he's seen similar changes in Velocity with his AR10 over time (and I believe he was using a Chronograph). I intentionally didn't adjust my Optics between my 100 Yd groups and 200 Yd groups because I wanted to be able to track POI (group offsets) between the two. Initially, my Crown was at ~107 Yds (+1.77) and at 200 Yds (-1.80"). However, during my range-time earlier this week, my Crown was ~127 Yds (+1.68) and at 200 Yds (0.00"). Per the Ballistic Calculator, this equates to +400 fps over the duration of Barrel Break-in coupled with significant Gas Block closure/reduction. Sure, the +400 fps may have been +300-+400 fps but certainly nowhere near what you are implying unless my head isn't quite lock-on.
Thats what I would put my money on after trying to read whatever it is you wrote before that.
Edit: your 6.5creed did not become a 264wm via barrel breakin.
Last edited:
You post begs a few questions.
Did you clean the barrel before you shot the original test?
How many rounds were shot prior to the initial data.
How many rounds are making up your POIs?
What ammunition were you using?
What optic are you using?
What do you by "Crown?
Did you clean the barrel before you shot the original test?
How many rounds were shot prior to the initial data.
How many rounds are making up your POIs?
What ammunition were you using?
What optic are you using?
What do you by "Crown?
My PACT Model 1 had served me well for 20 years, until recently.
I can send it in with a check for $15 and they'll send me a new one, but I'm not shooting much over these past 7 years.
Chris
I can send it in with a check for $15 and they'll send me a new one, but I'm not shooting much over these past 7 years.
Chris
Yes, thoroughly cleaned barrel before original test.
About 20 rounds fired prior to initial data.
My POIs are made up of 10 to 20 rounds each.
Ammo = S&B 140 Gr FMJ consistently
Optic = Vortex Venom w/2nd Zero @ 200 yards (1st Zero is just under 50 yards)
Center Optic to Center Bore = 2.75"
Crown taken off of Ballistic Table (highest point of travel above bore)
Other data:
Gun = PSA PA65 6.5 Creedmoor w/20" Stainless Steel Barrel
BCG = Toolcraft 6.5 Creedmoor
Range = PMRPC in Port Malabar, FL (same exact 200 Yard Bench Rest Range w/100 Yard & 200 Yard Targets
Position = Sitting (Bench Rest) with Bipod and Squeeze Bag
Gas Block = PSA Adjustable; 5 Clicks per rotation (Factory = 16 Clicks out; Adjusted to 11 Clicks out)
RH = ~70%; Barometric Pressure ~29.95; Temp ~85 to 92 degrees; Altitude = 23 feet; Wind = Fairly Stagnant
Last edited:
Glad they promised you that, mine worked maybe twice in a dozen tries. Brand new, gift from my son and wife. Sent it back, they sent the check back and said it checked out just fine. Set it up “0” velocities recorded. About that time, I was really, really missing my old Chrony. While it was never perfect, it gave good service for years until that certain day. Most Chrony owners no the drill…Bullet drills right through it.
Had a Magneto speed. May have ben my fault or other, but it would not stay on the barrel no matter how hard I tried to get it tight. Finally it came loose on the second shot of a string, I was not aware, 35 Whelen at full tilt, ended its career. Called Magnetospeed, explained the event, they offered me a few dollars off a band new unit for being honest.
Our son and I went halves on a Labradar. Expensive though it is, it is a great Chronograph. Would never want another brand, the Labradar works.
