Rifle Scopes Coating a scope (body not lens)

[battson]

Hi y'all,

I am considering doing a full protective coating with Cerakote for my rifle's action, barrel, bases, rings and scope.

Some questions:
1) Should I consider painting the scope, and other smaller parts, rather than coating them?
2) Should I consider coating the whole scope, or just the parts that are exposed to the elements? (i.e. leave the metal bare where the rings fit?)
3) I am unsure whether to coat the bedding surfaces on the action/stock interface, and the same goes for the action/base interface, base/rings interface... etc. Would doing the wrong thing effect accuracy?

Can those who have gone down the route of painting / coating a scope please offer their wisedom? Or a link to a thread which contains helpful information?

I mostly want to protect my rifle, but getting the rifle looking just right is a consideration too.

Thanks in advance to eveyrone who helps,
Jon

 

[USACS]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

I talked to a DuraCoat painter/installer guy who has a very extensive resume for his work. DuraCoat was sold to me as the best and most durable method for coating. Springfield Armory's ArmoryKote is supposedly DuraCoat.
Either way, it's up to you to decide. I have heard good things about Cerakote, when done correctly.
Keep in mind that this is opinion from a guy who was trained by DuraCoat. Take it for what it's worth and do your own research.
Painting is the easiest method, and it's reversible. Even if you use permanent paint, you can remove it with paint remover and a stiff-bristled nylon brush. Then leave it or repaint it a different color.

I paint everything but the insides of the rings. But that's me. There's probably some experts here with better advice than what I can give.

 

[savage110]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I talked to a DuraCoat painter/installer guy who has a very extensive resume for his work. From what I've heard, Cerakote is good, but it is very hard and if done incorrectly, can become brittle and begin to crack. DuraCoat was sold to me as the best and most durable method for coating, and there was some good info presented to me that is too extensive to list here. Springfield Armory's ArmoryKote is actually DuraCoat. That was enough to convince me of the quality.
Either way, it's up to you to decide. I have heard good things about Cerakote, when done correctly.
Painting is the easiest method, and it's reversible. Even if you use permanent paint, you can remove it with paint remover and a stiff-bristled nylon brush. Then leave it or repaint it a different color.

I paint everything but the insides of the rings. But that's me. There's probably some experts here with better advice than what I can give. </div></div>
Whisky Tango Foxtrot? Cerakote is 10 times a better coating product then duracoat, its a lot more durable.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

Here's WTF-
More than one kind of cerakote.....
Air cure is a tossup with duracoat (and Duracoat is more forgiving in prep), so unless the cerakote is heat cured prior to scope assembly (ala USO) you once again prove that not everything you read online carries weight when you regurgitate it.

 

[USACS]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Savage110</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Whisky Tango Foxtrot? Cerakote is 10 times a better coating product then duracoat, its a lot more durable. </div></div>
I edited it to note that this is based off of the guy's opinion. I haven't done tests to verify this either way. I was just offering an alternative option.

It's the Audi vs. BMW/F150 vs Silverado/Budweiser vs Miller argument from where I stand.

 

[savage110]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's WTF-
More than one kind of cerakote.....
Air cure is a tossup with duracoat (and Duracoat is more forgiving in prep), so unless the cerakote is heat cured prior to scope assembly (ala USO) you once again prove that not everything you read online carries weight when you regurgitate it. </div></div>
I did not get into specifics about it for a reason, I have a life and things to do.
Heat cured is more durable, thats the only one Ive had experience with, my buddy applies it on all his rifles. Steve, your posts crack me up. keep being internet tall.

 

[tpowers]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

Coat everything in Cerakote that you feel comfortable handling. If you don't feel comfortable baking your scope at low temps (below 140F), then use an the air cure. If you use the air cure, drop a couple of nuts into the container and shake well prior to applying. The H series is stronger, but the C series is still superior to the other brands, particularly in element protection. Bottom line Cerakote has the highest test rating of the three. Here is a link to the test results:
C1 is Duracoat and C2 is KG.
http://phantomfinishing.com/datasheet.html
I've never heard or experienced cerakote cracking. If it flakes its because the item coated was not properly prepped. I have used Duracoat, but I prefer not to anymore. If you have any questions about it you can send me a PM or email me.
Cheers,

 

[sobrbiker883]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

Todd, what's the lowest temp H will cure at? Heck, it its under 140 that means I could use it here the summer if I let the parts preheat and dry in the sun.

I was shooting some pistol yesterday (deciding single stack ve xd9 for UT) and when I picked up my 1911 after shooting a mag or two through the othe I guarantee it was over 140*!

 

[tpowers]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

So long as it is sustained for several hours it will cure. It is always best to reach at least 170F for 2 hours, but it will work at lower temperatures for longer time. Just don't mess with it for at least 12 hours or so after the curing process.

 

[battson]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

So if I coat the scope, will it still fit back into the rings? Or will I need to lap them to open them out fifty microns or so?
Is there any danger of it getting into the moving parts and wrecking the scope?

Maybe coat the barrel+action, small metal parts, but paint the scope?

Thanks for all the advice so far!

 

[JBW3]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

If it is a USO (and I don't see you saying it is) and you want a protective coating, you are not going to be able to apply anything stronger that what is already on the scope. This doesn't apply to all scopes, most scopes are not Type III hard anodized with a matte finish.
Best to mask areas on the tube for proper ring fit.
John III

 

[tpowers]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

If your ultimate concern is with element protection then why coat the scope at all? Unless it is a lower quality brand most have level3 anodizing on their aluminum bodies and parts. They're not going to rust on you. If its for cosmetic or camouflage value then I totally get it.

 

[battson]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)

Yeah 50/50, it's one more layer to soak up damage from rocks etc., and also to stop it standing out like a nonbodies business on the mountain-side.
Plus it looks cool if it's all matching

 

[locked&loaded]

Re: Coating a scope (body not lens)


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tpowers</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your ultimate concern is with element protection then why coat the scope at all? Unless it is a lower quality brand most have level3 anodizing on their aluminum bodies and parts. They're not going to rust on you. If its for cosmetic or camouflage value then I totally get it. </div></div>

+1 on this Todd.
Scope coating is usually to blend in or match a pattern.