I am considering a can for my Ruger 10/22. It has the Ruger hammer forged HB on it and its not threaded yet. My question is what thread pitch and what type can would be recommended?
considering a can for my Ruger
- Thread starter tireys
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Re: considering a can for my Ruger
so does Silencerco check out the new stainless steel sparrow. and what TD said...1/2-28 is the thread pitch you need.
so does Silencerco check out the new stainless steel sparrow. and what TD said...1/2-28 is the thread pitch you need.
Re: considering a can for my Ruger
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 762frmafr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so does Silencerco check out the new stainless steel sparrow. and what TD said...1/2-28 is the thread pitch you need. </div></div>
This, it's a slick can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 762frmafr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so does Silencerco check out the new stainless steel sparrow. and what TD said...1/2-28 is the thread pitch you need. </div></div>
This, it's a slick can.
Re: considering a can for my Ruger
Make sure you get a user-serviceable can. The one I chose that does well on my 10/22, CZ452, and 22/45 is the Liberty Kodiak TL. Titanium tube. Monolithic stainless steel core. Libertycans.net
A top rated can.
Also one to consider is the Silencerco Sparrow SS. A novel design that eases cleaning.
I would suggest sticking with cans made from stainless steel and/or titanium. Both are cleanable with "The Dip" (50/50 peroxide and vinegar). The dip will eat aluminum, as well as the lead deposits so you can't dip aluminum cans.
-David
Edgewood, NM
Make sure you get a user-serviceable can. The one I chose that does well on my 10/22, CZ452, and 22/45 is the Liberty Kodiak TL. Titanium tube. Monolithic stainless steel core. Libertycans.net
A top rated can.
Also one to consider is the Silencerco Sparrow SS. A novel design that eases cleaning.
I would suggest sticking with cans made from stainless steel and/or titanium. Both are cleanable with "The Dip" (50/50 peroxide and vinegar). The dip will eat aluminum, as well as the lead deposits so you can't dip aluminum cans.
-David
Edgewood, NM
Re: considering a can for my Ruger
Great info. fella. Now my next question is the formality of owning a suppressor? What am I lookin at paperwork wise and what is this gonna cost me?
Great info. fella. Now my next question is the formality of owning a suppressor? What am I lookin at paperwork wise and what is this gonna cost me?
Re: considering a can for my Ruger
Not really a big deal. Mostly a big wait. Figure 4-6 months for the paperwork process. First one is the hardest to wait on.
For cost, I'll give you my example:
Liberty Kodiak TL, $525
ATF Transfer Tax, $200
Local Dealer Transfer Fee, $50
Police Dept Fingerpringint, $7
Cut & Thread rifle barrel, $125
Ordered the can direct from manufacturer in late July 2010. Had it in hand by 10 November 2010.
Really it's about like ordering a gun from Gunbroker. Find an FFL/SOT dealer in your state. Then find the suppressor you want at the dealer of your choice, in state or out of state. If it's in state, work the whole deal through him. He'll handle it. If it's out of state, pay the guy that has the can and he transfers it to your dealer in state. Then your in state dealer will help you fill out an ATF FORM 4. You'll need to have a passport photo taken, fingerprints taken, and you'll have to get your local police chief, county sheriff, or other chief law enforcment officer in your jurisdiciton sign off on the complete Form 4. Then you send it off with a check for $200, wait 3-5 months, and when it comes back to your dealer approved, you go in, fill out an ATF Form 4473, and walk away with your new suppressor. Then go and make a few copies of the Form 4 to keep in your range bag and with the can. Put the original in your safe and then start shooting the piss out of it.
-David
Edgewood, NM
Not really a big deal. Mostly a big wait. Figure 4-6 months for the paperwork process. First one is the hardest to wait on.
For cost, I'll give you my example:
Liberty Kodiak TL, $525
ATF Transfer Tax, $200
Local Dealer Transfer Fee, $50
Police Dept Fingerpringint, $7
Cut & Thread rifle barrel, $125
Ordered the can direct from manufacturer in late July 2010. Had it in hand by 10 November 2010.
Really it's about like ordering a gun from Gunbroker. Find an FFL/SOT dealer in your state. Then find the suppressor you want at the dealer of your choice, in state or out of state. If it's in state, work the whole deal through him. He'll handle it. If it's out of state, pay the guy that has the can and he transfers it to your dealer in state. Then your in state dealer will help you fill out an ATF FORM 4. You'll need to have a passport photo taken, fingerprints taken, and you'll have to get your local police chief, county sheriff, or other chief law enforcment officer in your jurisdiciton sign off on the complete Form 4. Then you send it off with a check for $200, wait 3-5 months, and when it comes back to your dealer approved, you go in, fill out an ATF Form 4473, and walk away with your new suppressor. Then go and make a few copies of the Form 4 to keep in your range bag and with the can. Put the original in your safe and then start shooting the piss out of it.
-David
Edgewood, NM
Re: considering a can for my Ruger
Titsworth has the Element rated very highly on a pistol and very poorly on a 10/22. Plus it's about the highest 22LR can ou there. A Liberty Essence Ti can is the same price and a Thunder Beast Ti can is even cheaper.
Element is probably not the best choice for a Rifle.
Link to Silencer Research's guide to getting a silencer
-David
Edgewood, NM
Titsworth has the Element rated very highly on a pistol and very poorly on a 10/22. Plus it's about the highest 22LR can ou there. A Liberty Essence Ti can is the same price and a Thunder Beast Ti can is even cheaper.
Element is probably not the best choice for a Rifle.
Link to Silencer Research's guide to getting a silencer
-David
Edgewood, NM
