Gunsmithing Cracked Receiver
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Re: Cracked Receiver
Thats more than just cracked, thats Fucked. Its been welded up or possibley just filled with Epoxy, I would return it for a refund Imediatly!!!!!
Thats more than just cracked, thats Fucked. Its been welded up or possibley just filled with Epoxy, I would return it for a refund Imediatly!!!!!
Re: Cracked Receiver
Make a paperweight out of it.
Sorry man. Sounds like it's a widow maker.
Make a paperweight out of it.
Sorry man. Sounds like it's a widow maker.
Re: Cracked Receiver
is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy
is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C.
Re: Cracked Receiver
I like to see how much of the lower lug is left.
I like to see how much of the lower lug is left.
Re: Cracked Receiver
it looks like crap in the pics, and is hard to tell what's actually there... if the reciever wasn't hacked on, and it's just the epoxy that's cracking loose, it's salvagable... why way the epoxy added in the first place?
it looks like crap in the pics, and is hard to tell what's actually there... if the reciever wasn't hacked on, and it's just the epoxy that's cracking loose, it's salvagable... why way the epoxy added in the first place?
Re: Cracked Receiver
This a Red Jacket reveiver?
This a Red Jacket reveiver?
Re: Cracked Receiver
Toast brother. Send it back. If you can't. Ask a damn good smith. The problem you may run into. It may cost more to fix than buying a new action. Just my .02.
Toast brother. Send it back. If you can't. Ask a damn good smith. The problem you may run into. It may cost more to fix than buying a new action. Just my .02.
Re: Cracked Receiver
Who sold you this gem? Let me know so I can put them on the do not buy list.
Who sold you this gem? Let me know so I can put them on the do not buy list.
Re: Cracked Receiver
I would like to see it after a blast job. it looks like someone tried to alter the feed ramp with some bondo. you need it out of there before one can really make a good call. I would personaly throw it down the guys throat unles he sold it to you on consent.
how wide is the lug abutment? if there is meat missing....consider it a lesson....and park it.
I would like to see it after a blast job. it looks like someone tried to alter the feed ramp with some bondo. you need it out of there before one can really make a good call. I would personaly throw it down the guys throat unles he sold it to you on consent.
how wide is the lug abutment? if there is meat missing....consider it a lesson....and park it.
Re: Cracked Receiver
To me it looks like it was opened up and then filled back in. What does the bolt look like. Are either of the lugs hammered to shit? I suddenly feel better about my skills. Try to get your money back.
To me it looks like it was opened up and then filled back in. What does the bolt look like. Are either of the lugs hammered to shit? I suddenly feel better about my skills. Try to get your money back.
Re: Cracked Receiver
Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund.
Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund.
Re: Cracked Receiver
To my eyes, it looks like someone milled it out for longer coal with a dbm. Then filled it in with bedding compound. I am no expert, though. Get your money back!
To my eyes, it looks like someone milled it out for longer coal with a dbm. Then filled it in with bedding compound. I am no expert, though. Get your money back!
Re: Cracked Receiver
Wow, I dont think even our local hacks could abort something that looks that bad. If that was sent to me I would contact the seller and demand my money back. Looks like there $.02 paint job didnt quite cover up there blind hack gunsmithing job. Maybe they just gave it to you and you are trying to salvage it. If that is the case it looks like you wasted your postage money.
Wow, I dont think even our local hacks could abort something that looks that bad. If that was sent to me I would contact the seller and demand my money back. Looks like there $.02 paint job didnt quite cover up there blind hack gunsmithing job. Maybe they just gave it to you and you are trying to salvage it. If that is the case it looks like you wasted your postage money.
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Or hillbilly magnaflux~
Spray with carb cleaner and let excess evaporate, hit with heat or heat gun. Any cracks you will see a wet spot where the cleaner is trying to escape.
(The receiver is scrap metal from appearance)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Or hillbilly magnaflux~
Spray with carb cleaner and let excess evaporate, hit with heat or heat gun. Any cracks you will see a wet spot where the cleaner is trying to escape.
(The receiver is scrap metal from appearance)
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A10XRIFLE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund. </div></div>
Listen to George - case closed!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A10XRIFLE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund. </div></div>
Listen to George - case closed!!
Re: Cracked Receiver
what is wrong with those pictures doesn't stop with the dremeled out then filled back in lower lug abutment/feed ramp. did the same person that did the dremel work also use a dremel to chamber and machine the bolt nose counterbore on the barrel?
if i had that in my possession, i think it would get a date with the chop saw to make sure it could never be put back into service again.
what is wrong with those pictures doesn't stop with the dremeled out then filled back in lower lug abutment/feed ramp. did the same person that did the dremel work also use a dremel to chamber and machine the bolt nose counterbore on the barrel?
if i had that in my possession, i think it would get a date with the chop saw to make sure it could never be put back into service again.
Re: Cracked Receiver
RUN FOREST RUN.....
RUN FOREST RUN.....
Re: Cracked Receiver
Not worth loosing eyes or perhaps even more.
Not worth loosing eyes or perhaps even more.
Re: Cracked Receiver
The "tool" marks on the barrel do look a little funny. Notice also the lack of chamfers on both the chamber and the bolt nose counterbore.
The "tool" marks on the barrel do look a little funny. Notice also the lack of chamfers on both the chamber and the bolt nose counterbore.
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mnshortdraw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Who sold you this gem? Let me know so I can put them on the do not buy list. </div></div>
THIS!!!
That DEFINITELY does NOT look right; either it's been badly welded up or JB welded. Either way it a paperweight. Take it back to the seller and DEMAND your money back.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mnshortdraw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Who sold you this gem? Let me know so I can put them on the do not buy list. </div></div>
THIS!!!
That DEFINITELY does NOT look right; either it's been badly welded up or JB welded. Either way it a paperweight. Take it back to the seller and DEMAND your money back.
Re: Cracked Receiver
Agreed with 300 and Human.......I don't think your problems would end there judging by the quality (lack thereof) of the machining on the tenon and counterbore. Sorry man, but, IMHO, it looks like shit and not indicative of a caring hand on the lathe. It never fails to amaze me the kind of "work" that is out there. SR
Agreed with 300 and Human.......I don't think your problems would end there judging by the quality (lack thereof) of the machining on the tenon and counterbore. Sorry man, but, IMHO, it looks like shit and not indicative of a caring hand on the lathe. It never fails to amaze me the kind of "work" that is out there. SR
Re: Cracked Receiver
Looks like someone has milled alot of material away from the feed ramp area weakening the lower abutment. Then they filled it with Bondo. It looks as though the lower abutment is starting to move causing the Bondo to break away. 300Sniper is correct this action needs to be destroyed before someone gets hurt. I would be concerned of returning it to the person that sold it to you for fear that he would just try to resell it to some unsuspecting sole like yourself. If my assessment is correct this action needs to be destroyed.
Looks like someone has milled alot of material away from the feed ramp area weakening the lower abutment. Then they filled it with Bondo. It looks as though the lower abutment is starting to move causing the Bondo to break away. 300Sniper is correct this action needs to be destroyed before someone gets hurt. I would be concerned of returning it to the person that sold it to you for fear that he would just try to resell it to some unsuspecting sole like yourself. If my assessment is correct this action needs to be destroyed.
Re: Cracked Receiver
Seriously, where did this rifle come from? Gunbroker, message board, ??? I hope this one didn't come from someone here. PM me if you don't want to share with everyone.
Seriously, where did this rifle come from? Gunbroker, message board, ??? I hope this one didn't come from someone here. PM me if you don't want to share with everyone.
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A10XRIFLE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund. </div></div>
WHAT HE SAID (BEFORE ANYONE GETS HURT)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A10XRIFLE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its Garbadge get rid of it, Someone screwed it up bad and then used Epoxy or JB WELD to try to fix it it will cause you nothing but trouble, Please do not waste your time with it. Send it back to the guy who sold it to you and demand a refund. </div></div>
WHAT HE SAID (BEFORE ANYONE GETS HURT)
Re: Cracked Receiver
What is the story on this receiver? Did you send it out for work or just buy the barreled action? The action was finished when who ever ground it out had their "midevil hatchet job" way with it.
I like the saw marks on the end of the barrel.
What is the story on this receiver? Did you send it out for work or just buy the barreled action? The action was finished when who ever ground it out had their "midevil hatchet job" way with it.
I like the saw marks on the end of the barrel.
Re: Cracked Receiver
I smell Red Jacket and a Dremel tool.
Magnaflux it. Get your confirmation and then make sure it Can never be re-used.
I would demand a refund if you just bought it and post on every forum as to who the hack was to make sure no-one else gets stuck with this action
I smell Red Jacket and a Dremel tool.
Magnaflux it. Get your confirmation and then make sure it Can never be re-used.
I would demand a refund if you just bought it and post on every forum as to who the hack was to make sure no-one else gets stuck with this action
Re: Cracked Receiver
Obviously a project from "American Guns" ……
You are due some money back brutha!
Obviously a project from "American Guns" ……
You are due some money back brutha!
Re: Cracked Receiver
IMO this thread should've ended after the 1st two responces.
IMO this thread should've ended after the 1st two responces.
Re: Cracked Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cal50</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Or hillbilly magnaflux~
Spray with carb cleaner and let excess evaporate, hit with heat or heat gun. Any cracks you will see a wet spot where the cleaner is trying to escape.
(The receiver is scrap metal from appearance) </div></div>
You guys are talking about two separate methods of NDT here. The "Stain it" one is Penetrant. You spray it with penetrant, let it dwell so capilary action can draw it into the indication (pin hole, crack, etc), clean the excess off and then spray it with developer that will then draw the penetrant off. Or go without the developer and just examine it with the blacklight looking for the bleed out of PT.
"Magnaflux" is actually a brand name. They were the first company to commercially develop the Magnetic Particle method of nondestructive examination. Which is known as MT in the inspection industry, but the firearms buzz-word is "MPI" which makes me laugh every time I read it.
The MT method uses magnetism and iron particles (thus Magnetic Particle) to detect indications due to the magnetic flux leakage created at the indication. I could write a shitload more, but that should help a little bit with terminology if it ever comes to you actually needing to talk to an NDT Lab when requesting inspection.
And FWIW, don't simply trust any machine shop with an MT or PT setup just because they have a blacklight. If you are going to use them, at least ask them if they have any sort of certifications from ASNT, which they should if they are performing this kind of work.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cal50</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Force_Multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">is that even metal... kinda looks like epoxy </div></div>
On that note:
If it were me:
I'd sand blast the snot out of it and take to an automotive machine shop that has a magnaflux (wet mag) setup.
They'll stain it and hit it with a UV light. Any cracks will glow and become instantly self evident.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Or hillbilly magnaflux~
Spray with carb cleaner and let excess evaporate, hit with heat or heat gun. Any cracks you will see a wet spot where the cleaner is trying to escape.
(The receiver is scrap metal from appearance) </div></div>
You guys are talking about two separate methods of NDT here. The "Stain it" one is Penetrant. You spray it with penetrant, let it dwell so capilary action can draw it into the indication (pin hole, crack, etc), clean the excess off and then spray it with developer that will then draw the penetrant off. Or go without the developer and just examine it with the blacklight looking for the bleed out of PT.
"Magnaflux" is actually a brand name. They were the first company to commercially develop the Magnetic Particle method of nondestructive examination. Which is known as MT in the inspection industry, but the firearms buzz-word is "MPI" which makes me laugh every time I read it.
The MT method uses magnetism and iron particles (thus Magnetic Particle) to detect indications due to the magnetic flux leakage created at the indication. I could write a shitload more, but that should help a little bit with terminology if it ever comes to you actually needing to talk to an NDT Lab when requesting inspection.
And FWIW, don't simply trust any machine shop with an MT or PT setup just because they have a blacklight. If you are going to use them, at least ask them if they have any sort of certifications from ASNT, which they should if they are performing this kind of work.
