Precision Rifle Gear Cut foam in hard case with rifle scope up?

[Freediver111]

Not a super important question, but I have a hard sided rifle case with foam padding in it like just about all hard sided cases.
I’m going to make the cuts in the foam for my rifle, can, mags, etc, and my thinking is to cut the rifle portion so the scope sits up when using the middle handle. I see pics all the time where people cut the foam so the rifle sits with scope facing the bottom of the case. Seems like it just makes more sense to have the scope upward when carrying the case by the center handle, but maybe I’m wrong.
So not really a big deal either way, just wanted to hear some thoughts and if there’s a good reason to cut the foam so the scope faces down when carrying the case. Seems like it’s mostly done that way so when you open the case it’s facing you so you can bask in all its glory before pulling it out and using it.

 

[Carlos Danger]

With the amount of foam in the case I figured it didn't matter. Scope does for me.

 

[XLR308]

A few things to consider is right hand vs left hand, the bolt stored in the rifle or a seperate cut out for the bolt.
Do you want the muzzle down or up, prefferably up so if stored or transported in the vertical position the butt is distributing all the weight.
Pretty much whatever you want just decide whats best for you.
I would personally want the rifle presented when the case is opened so that i can pick it up with my left hand first the way i would handle it normally and that would put the optic facing the handle but also the bolt handle facing down and not the glorious presentation you mention.
All personal prefference.
I allmost allways use a two rifle drag bag and both rifles bolts are pulled and stored in the pouches on both sides of the bag, just more compact that way.

 

[OREGUN]

Scope up, like you say, so the scope isn’t bearing the rifle weight when the case is sitting upright. Lots of foam so it probably doesn’t matter. Bolt out and in a different cutout so a hard impact can’t snap the bolt handle off. I do all mine the same way so I know which way the muzzle will be pointing in case I end up at a range that is picky about “uncasing”. For me, that means muzzle to the left when the case is on its side with the latches oriented for opening.

 

[kthomas]

I don't think it matters much if the scope is oriented up or down, but orienting it up towards the handle certainly wouldn't hurt.

If you cut the foam properly, the rifle will be supported as well and the scope won't be supporting the entire rifle if oriented the other way.

Trace your components and make paper cutouts to help organize your foam before cutting.

 

[Baron23]

Just another small issue....cut it so when rolling it on its two wheels (assuming is has wheels like a Pelican, etc) the heavy end (but stock end) is toward the wheels.

Also, lay your foam upside down when marking it so that after you make your cuts any remaining Sharpie type marks go to the bottom.

 

[OREGUN]

Well now I’m all confused. The “heavy end“ of all my rifles is the middle to frontish.

 

[Waco Kid]

Helpful hint: buy a cheap electric carving knife to cut the foam. Way easier than a razor blade and scissors. There is a sticky here somewhere that has an old demo video

 

[trob]

I’ve done all mine with the scope up, by the handle.
Some advice:
- don’t do cutouts for ammo boxes and pistols, and shit that some people do. It’s gonna to be heavy enough without all that stuff. Plus, the more foam you remove, the less support your rifle has. Just the stuff that goes on the rifle (mags, bolt, suppressor?)
- cutout the foam and top it off with a full can of ’plastidip’. preserves the edges and makes it look real sharp. Just keep adding layers until it’s empty.

 

[Rodney65]

I’ve done all mine with the scope up, by the handle.
Some advice:
- don’t do cutouts for ammo boxes and pistols, and shit that some people do. It’s gonna to be heavy enough without all that stuff. Plus, the more foam you remove, the less support your rifle has. Just the stuff that goes on the rifle (mags, bolt, suppressor?)
- cutout the foam and top it off with a full can of ’plastidip’. preserves the edges and makes it look real sharp. Just keep adding layers until it’s empty.

Old thread but I found it while wondering how much extra stupid shit I could cram in so thank you for the solid tip. I really can't remember ever picking up a loaded gun case and wishing it was heavier.

The plastidip, I've never used it. Do you just get a similar gray color? Do you spray the whole foam piece to match or just the cut edges?

Also I know it has been asked a million times so I know the electric knife or hot wire are the preferred cutting methods but is that because it's easier or it looks way nicer? I don't mind taking a bit longer (would prefer to go slower so I don't wreck it actually) with a hacksaw blade, jigsaw, or long bladed box cutter but I want it to look good.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Helpful hint: buy a cheap electric carving knife to cut the foam. Way easier than a razor blade and scissors. There is a sticky here somewhere that has an old demo video

This is the way for sure. Outline it all with a sharpie on the back side, then cut it out with electric knife but have a new razor close by for details. Then flip the foam over and put in your case. Just keep in mind the orientation of everything since you will be flipping it over. Take your time and it will be no problem.


All that said, the only time I use my giant hard case like that is for air travel, otherwise my drag bag case by Gallati is much much preferred and well padded with solid tied down points. It's 1000 times better to actually use. For air travel you need the padded hard case for sure but otherwise you really dont and those suckeres get pretty difficult to haul around for anything else.

 

[trob]

Old thread but I found it while wondering how much extra stupid shit I could cram in so thank you for the solid tip. I really can't remember ever picking up a loaded gun case and wishing it was heavier.

The plastidip, I've never used it. Do you just get a similar gray color? Do you spray the whole foam piece to match or just the cut edges?

Also I know it has been asked a million times so I know the electric knife or hot wire are the preferred cutting methods but is that because it's easier or it looks way nicer? I don't mind taking a bit longer (would prefer to go slower so I don't wreck it actually) with a hacksaw blade, jigsaw, or long bladed box cutter but I want it to look good.

I’ve used the hot wire, carving knife, serrated knife, etc.
i keep going back to my outdoor edge skinning knife with 3.5” blade. Basically a 3.5” razor blade. Cuts straight and has been the easiest for me to use accurately. Could also use the snap-off style razor blade

With the plastidip, i take both pieces of foam out of the case to limit overspray, then spray the whole thing, stacked like they sit in the case (bottom piece will have the outline of the rifle on it). I use black because it looks sharp.

I connect the top and bottom with contact cement on mine, but that’s not necessary.

 

[Aftermath]

The stuff in my 1750's can be flipped and flopped so that it fits in there 4 different ways.

1)Scope up, muzzle left
2)Scope up, muzzle right
3)Scope down, muzzle left
4)Scope down, muzzle right

I don't know...maybe there's something I'm missing here.

 

[Rodney65]

This is the way for sure. Outline it all with a sharpie on the back side, then cut it out with electric knife but have a new razor close by for details. Then flip the foam over and put in your case. Just keep in mind the orientation of everything since you will be flipping it over. Take your time and it will be no problem.


All that said, the only time I use my giant hard case like that is for air travel, otherwise my drag bag case by Gallati is much much preferred and well padded with solid tied down points. It's 1000 times better to actually use. For air travel you need the padded hard case for sure but otherwise you really dont and those suckeres get pretty difficult to haul around for anything else.

I use a soft case now and my rifle is pretty solid but I feel bad when something gets piled on it in the truck. Also I lost a magazine last week because I didn't have a dedicated place to keep them so this should help me keep better track.

Plus they look pretty cool which counts for a lot. I plan for the gun to be flipped over with the second sheet of foam cut out for the stock and maybe a little for the mags.

 

[Matagorda308]

Scope up to handle. I had same thoughts.

Now I put thin foam in he Pelican. Stow the rifle in a padded drag bag. I use a double rifle drag bag for extra padding. Then put rifle, drag bag and all, in the case. Pad around it with extra clothing items. When you get where you are going with the hard case, you now have the soft case to use in the field. I got the tip from some guys hunted Africa a couple of times.

 

[Matagorda308]

It doesn’t make for that pretty presentation when you open the case, but pretty is, as pretty does…

 

[Rocketvapor]

Cut in the wife's Christmas present Savage into a vault case.
22 Nosler/22 NOSGAR.
Bolt(s) out, scope up.