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Rifle Scopes Determining how many inches or MOA between crosshairs and solid post on multi x reticle

I was overthinking this. So basically on a target shoot on the crosshairs then shoot from the post and measure the distance between groups then divide that distance by 1.047.

Thanks Gents.
 
I was overthinking this. So basically on a target shoot on the crosshairs then shoot from the post and measure the distance between groups then divide that distance by 1.047.

Thanks Gents.
You don't even need to load the weapon, let alone pull the trigger.
 
Is that a one time buy or subscription? If someone has it...would you mind checking to see if that reticle is in there?
Is like $11 single time, The Multi-X is in there on several models, but the 2.5-10 model is not, you can adjust the settings on the 3-10, if for some reason that was NOT accurate an email to Boris would get it added in short order.

ETA:
it looks like each section is 6 MOA @ 10x, so 24 MOA edge to edge.
 
Seriously, just dial to 10x, according to the spec sheet, that's where the reticle is subtended.
Set a target up at 100 yards. If the target has actual MOA marks, FANTASTIC!!! If not, 1 inch is pretty damned close to 1MOA at that range.
Look at the target through the scope at 10x. You can then, literally, count the MOA marks (or inches, as the case may be).
There you are.
 
Reach into the drawer where you keep this or steal it from your kid.

Screenshot_20210923-083359_Chrome.jpg

Slap it up at whatever distance you need the measurement.

I cannot figure out why so many people try to complicate the living shit out of something so simple.


Now for the fun part. What are you going to do with the information after you have it?
Do you know that at 90 yards, the subtension will be different.
It will be different at any distance other than your initial measurement.

It gets better...
What if you don't have your sfp scope set on exactly the same magnification every time?
It'll be different.

Why in the world do you want to do all that math?
 
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Reach into the drawer where you keep this or steal it from your kid.

View attachment 7708509

Slap it up at whatever distance you need the measurement.

I cannot figure out why so many people try to complicate the living shit out of something so simple.


Now for the fun part. What are you going to do with the information after you have it?
Do you know that at 90 yards, the subtension will be different.
It will be different at any distance other than your initial measurement.

It gets better...
What if you don't have your sfp scope set on exactly the same magnification every time?
It'll be different.

Why in the world do you want to do all that math?
I complicated this. I figured I needed to know where I was starting from first. The plan is to ultimately zero the crosshairs at 100 or 200 yards (near mpbr) but needed to know what the distance was in the reticle to shoot the gap or off the post. I think I got it now. Thanks gents.
 
I complicated this. I figured I needed to know where I was starting from first. The plan is to ultimately zero the crosshairs at 100 or 200 yards (near mpbr) but needed to know what the distance was in the reticle to shoot the gap or off the post. I think I got it now. Thanks gents.

What are you planning on shooting, and at what distance(s)?
What cartridge?

Deer/hog hunting?
Steel shooting?
Paper targets only?

More info would help us help you much better.
 
What are you planning on shooting, and at what distance(s)?
308, 16.5 inch barrel, ELDM @2600 FPS with 43.3 Ramshot TAC, LCLR or Lapua brass or FC brass in a pinch.

At distances of up to 350 yards on the reticle and as far as my skills will let me on tge
Deer/hog hunting? YES And occasional coyote
Steel shooting?NO
Paper targets only?SOMETIMES

More info would help us help you much better.
Want to be able to shoot the crosshairs, center of the gap and the top post if a shot presents with no time to dial.

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Last edited:
What distances do you have shot opportunities?

Honestly, this sounds more like you should be using a MPBR (Maximum point blank range) zero.

Say you have shots to 250yds. For a 308, sight it in 1.5-2" high at 100 and just hold fur inside of 250, pull the trigger.

This way there's no confusion with what power your scope is set on or anything else.

Bring the rifle to your shoulder and kill shit.

If something is outside of that 250, you should have plenty of time to dial or just pass on the shot.

I'm switching to Mil/FFP for hunting because I don't ever have to worry about what power the optic is on.

Zeroed at 100. .4mil low at 200, .6 low at 250ish 1.0mil at 300, etc.
If I want to make a 500yd shot, I just hold the 3 mil line a touch low and bang, it's dead.


You're going to need to make absolutely sure you are on 10x or all your values will change unless you play the MPBR game.


For SFP, I use the MPBR.
 
For anyone else who needs to know this, it’s exactly 5 MOA from the top of the post to the crosshairs. Did it 2 ways. Measured with grid on the target then shot it to confirm.

As the gentleman stated above it may be best for me to shoot MPBR on the crosshairs, the gap for 325 and the post for 400. Now to practice.

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