Did I screw up my muzzle brake?

jetman624

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Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 16, 2013
17
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South OC, CA
I had this put on today and the smith didn't get it clocked quite right. I should have looked it over closer while at the shop-- mistake #1. #2, I should not have stuck a steel rod in the port to try and twist it off-- that was dumb, I should know better, did not expect the SS to do that...

Now one of the ports is oblonged a bit. Also, the port is sitting about 12:30 - 1:00.

Are either of these things going to affect the bullets flight path?

Brake is from this guy:
Home Page

Rifle is a 700 5R in .300WM

 
Brakes that have ports equally spaced around the circumference do not need to be clocked (with any particular row of ports at 12:00) other than for aesthetics.
 
Well that is what I was hoping to do when I tried to remove it... Maybe a little heat to soften the lock-tite?

You didn't use red, did you? Blue is more than sufficient for that job. I rarely use the stuff anymore. apply adequate torque and it is never coming loose. Just clean, lubed threads. I doubt mine is torqued much past 20 lb/ft on 5/8x24 threads.
I doubt the lack of clocking will effect anything given the design of that brake and don't worry about the last hole, it'll be fine.

If you did use red Loctite, you are gonna have to heat the brake up quite a bit. As I recall, to around 250 deg F. That is where spit on your finger will sizzle on the brake. Use a gentle torch flame and heat evenly all around. It should spin right off at that temp with maybe a little persuasion for the first grunt.
Borrow the wife's oven mitts. Just don't tell her. :D
 
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You will see a lot of guys with radial ported brakes will oblong all their ports and round them out, for nothing more than cosmetic reasons to make them look smoother. It will bother u more than anything, no one will notice and it will shoot fine
 
You didn't use red, did you? Blue is more than sufficient for that job. I rarely use the stuff anymore. apply adequate torque and it is never coming loose. Just clean, lubed threads. I doubt mine is torqued much past 20 lb/ft on 5/8x24 threads.
I doubt the lack of clocking will effect anything given the design of that brake and don't worry about the last hole, it'll be fine.

If you did use red Loctite, you are gonna have to heat the brake up quite a bit. As I recall, to around 250 deg F. That is where spit on your finger will sizzle on the brake. Use a gentle torch flame and heat evenly all around. It should spin right off at that temp with maybe a little persuasion for the first grunt.
Borrow the wife's oven mitts. Just don't tell her. :D

It was blue in color, though I seem to recall some brand of thread locker using a blue color even though it was the "permanent strength" stuff, but maybe I am miss remembering. So I hesitate to say for sure which strength was used, though whatever it was, he used A LOT. Enough to where he probably could have left it un torqued in the properly clocked position and it would not have budged...
 
It was blue in color, though I seem to recall some brand of thread locker using a blue color even though it was the "permanent strength" stuff, but maybe I am miss remembering. So I hesitate to say for sure which strength was used, though whatever it was, he used A LOT. Enough to where he probably could have left it un torqued in the properly clocked position and it would not have budged...

If it was blue, you can probably use less heat but if he slathered the stuff on there, it is going to be a PITA. I will, on small screws, even use the low strength stuff which is purple. Made for small screws in the 3-4mm range and for fine threads. We have an edict from on high that all screws be held with a thread locker at assembly. Utter nonsense but they don't fall out in shipping. Access cover screws and all, makes maintenance of our equipment an utter joy when you have to remove 12 screws. We in the field service department hate the stuff. Try explaining to the guy in charge of customer complaints that he needs to train folk to use only a tiny little drop on the threads. Sounds like your smith could use a little of the same recommendation.
 
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