Die questions

[mzvarner]

Want to start reloading 9mm, 223, 308. Going in on a set up with a buddy and we are using Lee Classic turret press. Looking into their dies as well and here is the question...Whjat is the difference between the 3 die and 4 die set for 9mm? I assume the 223 version will be fine to reload plinker rounds for 3 gun? I want to reload some precision ammo for my 308 should I just spring for a micrometer set (Redding?) or should I start with a basic set to get the basics figured out?

Trying to be cost effective (buy once, cry once)

 

[Pinecone]

4 die set includes their factory crimp die as well as the normal 3 dies.

Pistol dies are:

1) Sizing/decapping
2) Neck Expanding (may be combined with powder drop for progressive presses)
3) Bullet seating (normally will also roll crimp or not, depending on how you set the die)
4) Optional Crimp die (taper for most, "factory" crimp for Lee)

Micrometer seating die is nice if you are changing the seating depth. I load .308 for an M1A at 2,800" COAL, and also for my Rem 700, at 2.880" COAL. Micrometer die helps switch.

I went with Whidden dies, both FL bushing sizing die and micrometer seating. But I have loaded a LOT of .308 using a set of RCBS dies that shoots very well.

 

[mzvarner]

So I read somewhere that in pistol rounds the rolled crimp tends to cause more problems because of how the round chambers it dosnt line up very well or seat against whatever its seating against (can't think ofthe word sorry). Is this true? If so would t a 4 piece "factory" crimp be better because I assume what it's doing is squeezing the brass back into the bullet but just enough so as not to alter the bullet shape.

 

[targaflorio]

Revolver loads are rolled crimped. Taper crimping is for pistols which headspace on the case mouth. On my Dillon, the powder station bells the mouth, then I seat the bullet into the belled mouth and finish with a taper crimp.

 

[Twoboxer]

Lotsa folks - even those who wouldn't use other Lee dies - use the Lee FCD when they choose to separate seating from crimping/removing the bell.

The "extra" die simplifies setup and works even when brass is not trimmed to the same size (not an issue for 9mm), adds ease and value, and doesn't really require extra work on a turret because you would need to stroke past the empty hole anyhow. And you really don't need to use a slot for a "powder check die" on a Lee turret since the powder dump is right in front of you and nothing else is happening at that time.

Just remember to check the powder in each case as you put the bullet on.

I'd highly recommend it for 9mm, and if you use cannelured bullets in your rifle calibers.

 

[ksthomas]

I tend to avoid Lee equipment like the plague, but virtually every semi-auto pistol I load for has the tool head set up with a Lee Factory Crimp Die at the final station. Since incorporating these dies in the process, along with the religious use of a Wilson chamber gage, I don't think I've had a single ammo related jam in ANY of those pistols.

Blind pigs do indeed find acorns from time to time, and Lee turned out a real winner with the Factory Crimp Dies. Recommend them whole-heartedly.

 

[Rprecision]

I have used Lee dies for years, pistol and rifle. They offer a great value and work very well.

I use a more refined Forester set for my precision .308 today, but I cant say if i was careful with the Lee I couldent match the same load.

I really like the pistol crimp die the Lee uses. It resizes and taper crimps for auto cartridges

 

[mzvarner]

I use a more refined Forester set for my precision .308 today, but I cant say if i was careful with the Lee I couldent match the same load.

Great info guys, thank you! So what are the advantages of using a precision die set? If you wanted to adjust seating depth it is just the turn of a dial vs. having to mess with the threads micro-turn by micro-turn? My overall goal is to find the most precise load I can, but I am only a beginner. Does it make since for a new loader to buy a precision set up to learn with, or do they add that much more technicality to the process? Does seating depth really matter that much in accuracy? If I just focus on projectile/ powder charge and load to the recomended C.O.L of 2.810, will that be good enough (hopefully strides ahead of factory ammo?)

I am sure this is written and understood somewhere, but I have yet to see it... I feel like there is a hierarchy of what matters most in reloading towards accuracy and I feel like it goes something like

1 projectile
2 powder
3 primmer
4 COAL...

kind of hijacking my own thread here but I have tons of questions about the process (art?) of reloading that have yet to be answered

 

[Rprecision]

Great info guys, thank you! So what are the advantages of using a precision die set? If you wanted to adjust seating depth it is just the turn of a dial vs. having to mess with the threads micro-turn by micro-turn? My overall goal is to find the most precise load I can, but I am only a beginner. Does it make since for a new loader to buy a precision set up to learn with, or do they add that much more technicality to the process? Does seating depth really matter that much in accuracy? If I just focus on projectile/ powder charge and load to the recomended C.O.L of 2.810, will that be good enough (hopefully strides ahead of factory ammo?)

I am sure this is written and understood somewhere, but I have yet to see it... I feel like there is a hierarchy of what matters most in reloading towards accuracy and I feel like it goes something like

1 projectile
2 powder
3 primmer
4 COAL...

kind of hijacking my own thread here but I have tons of questions about the process (art?) of reloading that have yet to be answered

A precision die set allows for more precise seating depth adjustments, note I said adjustments. The same results in terms of COAL can be obtained with the Lee's you just have to measure a bit more. The Foresters I have do a better job of maintaining alignment when seating bullets with less runout, again marginally.

My suggestion is to get the premium Lee's they come in the yellow case, or at least they used to. They will do everything you need and teach you the process.

Accuracy is not one thing its more about controlling alot of little things. Yeah you need a good bullet, a consistant and proper charge of powder and a COAL that works for your gun. When you start talking about changing primers I dont think you will find the holy grail. The point is start slow, learn to do it safely, then fine tune your process. There is alot that goes into it so dont short yourself running to the finish line to show up realizing you forgot the most important step which is learning the race.

Remember what accuracy means for you and your weapons system. Dont just assume becuse you reload some super secret recipe your factory gun will somehow start setting records, although factory guns have came along ways.............

Happy reloading, dont hoard all our supplies