Guys, need some help with purchasing dies for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I finally bit the bullet and purchased a reloading kit and was wondering what everyone’s thoughts were on dies. It’s been a bit overwhelming trying to decide which set to buy. I’m currently looking at the Redding premium series deluxe 3 die set. Can anyone add any information on these that may help me in my decision? I don’t shoot competition (yet), but would like to someday. So I don’t want to have to buy another set down the road. I also don’t want to spend a fortune either. This set seems like a good compromise. Any information is appreciated.
Dies
- Thread starter Gd33333
- Start date
Redding Dies are (IMHO) one of the better made dies out there. Both Redding and RCBS make dies that are a design that is time tested, tried and true. The Hornady New Dimension dies work, but are no where near as robust a design (that stupid fucking zip spindle of theirs is pretty flimsy IMO, and is a solution in search of a problem).
You dont really need the 3 die kit, just get the 2 die premium set, you dont need the extra neck die. The premium line is nice that it has the carbide ball and micrometer top. Basically the normal dies retrofitted with some more convenient features.
The sizer is a normal full traditional length sizer (40) with the carbide ball (38) added on, it would normally cost 80 bucks to make this die set yourself.
The seater with micrometer is juts a normal seater (40) with the micro top (40) added on, normally it would cost 80 to make this set up.
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So to recreate the premium yourself would be 160 bucks, so the midway sale for 100 bucks is a good deal.
I prefer the competition seater with its sliding sleeve and more robust micrometer, but it cost as much as the 2 die kits by itself. Plus a sizer and a carbide ball would make this combo 160 bucks. So its a 60% markup to go this route, up to you to decide. You could also get the type s full length set with comp seater for 162 plus 20 for a bushing right now, this would allow you to limit over sizing the brass down which mitigates the usefulness of the carbide ball.
For not spending a fortune the premium 2 die is a good deal.
The sizer is a normal full traditional length sizer (40) with the carbide ball (38) added on, it would normally cost 80 bucks to make this die set yourself.
The seater with micrometer is juts a normal seater (40) with the micro top (40) added on, normally it would cost 80 to make this set up.
So to recreate the premium yourself would be 160 bucks, so the midway sale for 100 bucks is a good deal.
I prefer the competition seater with its sliding sleeve and more robust micrometer, but it cost as much as the 2 die kits by itself. Plus a sizer and a carbide ball would make this combo 160 bucks. So its a 60% markup to go this route, up to you to decide. You could also get the type s full length set with comp seater for 162 plus 20 for a bushing right now, this would allow you to limit over sizing the brass down which mitigates the usefulness of the carbide ball.
For not spending a fortune the premium 2 die is a good deal.
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Reloading dies are a "forever" purchase, so this is not a place that makes sense to go cheap. Example: I still load 9mm pistol cartridges using RCBS dies bought new in 1978 (yes 1978). I couldn't begin to guess how many tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of rounds I'e loaded with that one set of dies. So, go ahead and buy the dies you deem appropriate based on your research. "Buy once cry once" certainly applies here.
With that said, I ended up buying an RCBS match 2-die set for my 6.5CM accompanied by a Sinclair expander die and mandrel. I think the 2-die set was like $160 on sale at Midway or Natchez and the expander die/mandrel another $75.
The expander mandrel is not strictly needed, but using one gives a bit more consistency in neck expansion after the resize step. The resize die will squeeze the case neck down via the bushing used based on brass thickness. Then, on return stroke of the handle, an expander ball on the decapping stem will be pulled back up through the neck and ostensibly size the neck to 0.001" under nominal bullet diameter (e.g., 0.263" for a 0.264" bullet). This works "well enough" but a separate die which pushes the long mandrel into the case instead of pulling a "ball" back up through is a bit better. Again, you're looking at something with a practically infinite lifespan if you get the carbide mandrel and take care of your gear.
(Note: the size die in the 2-die set will include both the expander ball and a simple clamp. Use one or the other to secure the decapping pin on its stem; if using a separate expander, set the ball aside and use the "clamp" to hold the decapping pin in place. Unless you precisely neck-turn your brass to make the neck brass exactly the same thickness from case shoulder to mouth - a pita to do and the tool is another purchase - you need either expander ball or mandrel. This was not clear to me when I started; members here set me straight.)
With that said, I ended up buying an RCBS match 2-die set for my 6.5CM accompanied by a Sinclair expander die and mandrel. I think the 2-die set was like $160 on sale at Midway or Natchez and the expander die/mandrel another $75.
The expander mandrel is not strictly needed, but using one gives a bit more consistency in neck expansion after the resize step. The resize die will squeeze the case neck down via the bushing used based on brass thickness. Then, on return stroke of the handle, an expander ball on the decapping stem will be pulled back up through the neck and ostensibly size the neck to 0.001" under nominal bullet diameter (e.g., 0.263" for a 0.264" bullet). This works "well enough" but a separate die which pushes the long mandrel into the case instead of pulling a "ball" back up through is a bit better. Again, you're looking at something with a practically infinite lifespan if you get the carbide mandrel and take care of your gear.
(Note: the size die in the 2-die set will include both the expander ball and a simple clamp. Use one or the other to secure the decapping pin on its stem; if using a separate expander, set the ball aside and use the "clamp" to hold the decapping pin in place. Unless you precisely neck-turn your brass to make the neck brass exactly the same thickness from case shoulder to mouth - a pita to do and the tool is another purchase - you need either expander ball or mandrel. This was not clear to me when I started; members here set me straight.)
So do you think the premium 2 die set at $100 is worth it vs a Hornady custom set at $40? I only ask about the Hornady because currently I’m shooting 140 gr eld match through my RPR with great success. I plan to start with those bullets for reloading and I know Hornady makes a specific stem for seating the longer eld bullets.
Redding makes a vld stem as well if you find you need it.
I think it’s worth it because I hate having to futz with a non micro top seater. You can also add a micro top to the hornady for about the same price as the Redding micro top. I’ve done that myself on both. I personally like the Redding, I think it’s an easier to distinguish design, but they both do the job.
I do like the hornady lock rings more.
I prefer the Forster seating die over the Redding competition seater die. They both are nigh quality and do the same thing. The Forster is a little less money and the number scale is father apart on the adjustment dial so more precise adjustment when required. Buy good dies once and never look back.
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