difference in small rifle primers

JCH

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 10, 2008
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Oklahoma City, OK
Last week I was doing load testing for my 223AI coyote rifle. Using Lapua Brass and 55gr NBT moly'd with H335.

I was using Magtech SRP's and got up to 28.4 with no pressure signs but didn't shoot a group smaller than 3/4-1"

I decided to swith to CCI 400's and started at 28.1 and was planning on running up to 28.9gr.

After the first round of 28.1 I had gas coming out of the back of my surgeon bolt and immediately knew something was wrong. I pulled the brass and saw a blown primer.

Has anyone seen this difference between primers? The blown primer load ran 3450fps, I was hoping to get around 3500...so it wasn't ultra fast or anything.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

I have seen it in 9mm. I blew RP 1 1/2 primers with book loads. WSP, FC100, CCI500 all did fine.

My one and only box of Hornady 147gr TAP ammo blew all the primers.

Maybe Magtech has some super tough primer cups. I know their 9mm brass is very hard.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

CCI 400s are not good ones to use in high intensity .223 loads; these primers are very thin. You need to look at CCI 450, BR4 or 41. I personally use Remington 7 1/2 (not the 6 1/2)in my hot 223 loads.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

the cci 400's have a primer cup thickness of .020".thats on the thin side.the cci 450's and br4's are both .025 so you could try them.the rem 7 1/2's are .025 as well.the fed 200's are only .019 so you may want to stay away from them if your gouing to load hot.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

Thanks for the link! Some of my recent experience would seem to indicate there is more to primers then shown in this link however. I was having issues with piercing the BR4's. Twice fired LC,26.5 gr. H4895, HBN coated 80 VLD's, 30 degrees outside air temp. Switched to 205M's no other changes, no more holy primers. I think there could also be a difference in metal used in the primer cups.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

What the above article does not cover is the relationship between primers and the ignition energy required. I covered part of this in
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1491032#Post1491032
Different manufacturers use different formulations in primer mix as well as different mixing methods. One was known as "dry mix" which was extremely dangerous to the personnel making the mix and the other is "wet mix" which the primer boys I know say does not help things insofar as uniformity goes.
I had a long discussion with Homer Powley about this and it was his opinion was based on what he had seen in the plants that CCI had the best methodology at that time but he also said he did not have any data to support that conclusion but was based on the work he did at Frankford Arsenal. You older guys will have read articles he wrote many years ago.
It is well known some primers are hotter than others and some tend to give more uniform ignition than others but since there are different lots, a single test result showing small SD is not indicative of primer performance from lot to lot.
Primers are tested in drop fixtures wherein a steel ball of a given weight is dropped from differing heights onto a fixture holding a primer. There are different ball weights for different primers running in the ounce range like 2 oz. 4 oz etc.
Hundreds of primers are tested to determine the min all fire drop height and the max all NO FIRE drop height.
Once the all fire drop height is ascertained the primer is replaced with the copper (mentioned in thread above) and the ball is dropped. The copper is removed and placed in a bench inspection gage when the depth of the indent is recorded.
Different primers have differing all fire heights. For instance the hardest primer to ignite in the US small arms inventory is the Cal 50 BMG primer.
Next below that is the primer used in M193/M855 etc 5.56MM ammo utilizing MILSPEC primers. The spec calls for .022” indent on copper from M16 variants.
Next down the list is the large rifle primers and standard small rifle primers. If memory serves me correctly the all fire drop height on large rifle primers is .012" indent on copper and the all no fire drop height is .009" or thereabouts. Anywhere in between you will get misfires at various rates per million. Obviously the closer the indent energy is to .009" the higher the misfire rate will be and the closer it is to .012" the less misfires will be sustained.
The next hardest to ignite is magnum pistol primers followed by the easiest to ignite is the small pistol primers.
As stated in the other thread the industry recommendation now is for .016” copper indent for large and small rifle which I personally disagree with. Previously it was .020” indent but a few years ago for some unexplained reason the indent requirement was dropped. On my target guns I strive for a min of .020”.
So what is the big deal? Basically the drop test delivers indents to the dead center of the primer where the apex of the primer anvil is. You guys start looking at your fired cases for striker indent centrality. If you are off center your ignition reliability is lowered after .020” offset per the Frankford Arsenal Report I have.
OK so you have offset, just because it goes off doesn’t mean it was ignited in an ideal manner. Kind of like striking a match on a box. The ignition goes quicker the faster you move it and the slower the match is moved the slower the ignition. Anything except a dead center hit is likely to affect the ignition mechanics.
If one looks at the nice custom actions made today for the Palma game, one will see the primer indents on fired cases are pretty much dead center as they have found out a bore line and a action center line being straight is the best of all worlds and a dead center ignition only helps.
Some might say “why not .012” copper energy on new rifles”. One must remember there are things that go on in rifles that can affect striker velocity like some trigger groups have been found to impart a drag on the striker and not allow it to achieve a clean release. Next the striker has to move in a striker tunnel and the striker rubs on the striker spring. Don’t believe it? Look at inside of old striker spring and look at inside surface of new ones. The old ones will have flats where it drags on the striker which removes material and the new one will be round. Logically if you have a marginal spring and you take material away from it, it has to weaken the spring.
Primers need two things for reliable ignition. Energy and VELOCITY . There is no way the average guy or even the factory to determine striker velocity on every rifle for handgun coming off production but the copper is the trade off to massive instrumentation. For instance if you drop a 2 ounce ball from 20” you get the same energy delivered from dropping a 20 ounce ball from two inches. The second scenario will result in 100% misfire as the falling 20 ounce ball did not achieve velocity. This is why you can take primers out of cases without having them go off and even crush them without ignition.
Then there is the problem of oil/grease in the striker channel which can thicken over time acting to retard striker movement. I knew a guy who constantly drowned his guns in WD40. Finally it thickened up so much he got misfires. We cleaned his bolts and no more misfires.
Thusly the more energy you can start with the better your ignition reliability.
Why are handgun primers so sensitive? Handguns generally by their design do not impart lots of striker energy. That I know of the M1911A1 design is the hardest hitting striker of all the pistol designs save for the XP100s etc that start life as a rifle.
The hardest hitting striker I ever had was a 98 Mauser Corona action which gave a .024” indent on copper.
I have a 1911 Swiss straight pull that still delivers .022” indent and nearly a hundred years old! ! !
Which rifle has the best design striker system? Hard to say but I know what I have seen and that is a Grunig & Elmiger (picture of one on another thread). My buddy brought one over a few years ago and he pulled bolt down to clean it and it was absolutely amazing how massive the striker spring was. The wire diameter was almost twice what I have ever seen in a US rifle.
If I were to sell all I had and keep one rifle, the G&E would be the last to go. http://www.gruenel.ch/
They are THE rifle in Europe for 300 meter shooting.
Another rifle with a great striker & spring design is the Mannlicher Schoenauer M1905. I have one in 9MM M-S and I would hate to part with it but then again I can’t see the iron sights on the short barrel any longer and should pass it to a younger guy who can still see close sights.

If you want to get a feel for what different primers do, you can dupe a test series I ran.
I took 33 cases and loaded them with same propellant three times using three different primer vendors and loaded them all with same bullet. Cases were neck sized and reloaded quickly and fired again in the same temperature. I fired first three rounds to foul the barrel, then fired 30 continuous rounds through the Oehler 33 recording all shots and taking SD every ten shots and at end of 30. I cleaned the barrel, reloaded with different primers, same charge etc and ran the test again. It was amazing to see the variations.
I changed primer lots, same vendor different lot number and this changed as well.
I changed propellants and ran test, changed everything.
Even more amazing I changed calibers and ran the test again and again the ranking was different. Nothing ever duplicated!
Bottom line here is selecting the primer is only going to get you so far if you don’t have a excellent ignition train to get it going uniformly. Changing one thing like propellant or primer lot will change everything. I already knew changing propellant lots would do me a number and canister lots are blends and bulk lots are not.
What to do. Buy in 5M cases and if possible get several cases of the same lot number. Then you know where you are for a while. Keep careful records of results.
Warning: This will cause gray hair and loss there of in a somewhat violent manner.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Warning: This will cause gray hair and loss there of in a somewhat violent manner.</div></div>

Too late.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

Maybe you should have read the reloading book. Ball powders call for MAGNUM primers.

I prefer not to load CCI400s in .223 at all, actually.

27 grains of H335 in a .223 REM case was the norm 20 years ago although modern books won't let you go that high. I have loaded to 28 before. M193 spec military ammo is around 30 grains, but I sure as hell wouldn't try it. Primers are completely flat at 28.

28.1 sounds pretty reasonable for .223AI
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe you should have read the reloading book. Ball powders call for MAGNUM primers.

I prefer not to load CCI400s in .223 at all, actually.

27 grains of H335 in a .223 REM case was the norm 20 years ago although modern books won't let you go that high. I have loaded to 28 before. M193 spec military ammo is around 30 grains, but I sure as hell wouldn't try it. Primers are completely flat at 28.

28.1 sounds pretty reasonable for .223AI</div></div>

I can't find Magnum Small Rifle Primer anywhere...
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JCH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I can't find Magnum Small Rifle Primer anywhere... </div></div>

Believe it or not Wolf small rifle magnum primers are really good. Powder Valley has them in stock.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

I have some Wolf small rifle and large rifle. I have shot the large rifle and they were fine. Have not loaded any small rifle yet as I am burning up the rest of my Rem BR primers. I understand they do fine in 223 loads.

How much is Powder valley getting for them now. I got mine when they were 80.00 per case I think it was.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

Price wise, Wolfs are the best deal out there. If their other offerings perform as well, I'll switch over once I thin the ranks a little.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JCH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I can't find Magnum Small Rifle Primer anywhere... </div></div>

Then don't load ammo and risk blowing your face off. Magnum primers are thicker (in small rifle anyway) for this reason.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

So how thick are the Wolf small rifle regular and magnum primers? I have a set of the magnum I haven't tried out yet.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JCH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I can't find Magnum Small Rifle Primer anywhere... </div></div>

Then don't load ammo and risk blowing your face off. Magnum primers are thicker (in small rifle anyway) for this reason. </div></div>

This is most interesting as I've never heard or read this anywhere. I am aware of a difference between rifle and pistol primers whether large or small but never this.

I've also substituted magnum and non-magnum primers many times and my 'mug' is just as gorgeous as ever.

Perhaps, I'm missing something?
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pogo57</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JCH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I can't find Magnum Small Rifle Primer anywhere... </div></div>

Then don't load ammo and risk blowing your face off. Magnum primers are thicker (in small rifle anyway) for this reason. </div></div>

This is most interesting as I've never heard or read this anywhere. I am aware of a difference between rifle and pistol primers whether large or small but never this.

I've also substituted magnum and non-magnum primers many times and my 'mug' is just as gorgeous as ever.

Perhaps, I'm missing something? </div></div>

You're definitely missing something. Don't ever put CCI400 primers in an AR with a floating firing pin. CCI450s have thicker cups and are designed to avoid slam fires.

See this page for details:
http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How does a slamfire blow your face off? I've used tens of thousands of CCI 400s in ARs...dating back to the seventies. </div></div>

Then consider yourself lucky. The OP already admits to using a primer that would not be specified in any loading manual for the powder he's using (H335 is a spherical powder and it would call for a magnum primer as a result).

The reason CCI makes military primers for military rifles (and uses the same cups for the magnum primers) is this risk of slamfire.

I hope that everyone remembers when reloading that you are essentially building a bomb to go off within inches from your face. There is no good reason to violate the suggestions of a reloading manual in this instance.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

Luck has nothing to do with it; my loads are tailored to the gun and the components I'm using. I've even used the long rumored soft Federal primers (probably not more than 15-20 thousand) in ARs and even the copper cupped Wolfs.

Info in load manuals is based on what the researcher learned that day. I can go back through more than 35 years of manuals and find differences from one edition to another, and comparing manuals from different companies has confused more than one new loader. Load manuals are guides, not gospel.

It's impossible to build a bomb with smokeless powder; burn rate is too slow.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How does a slamfire blow your face off? I've used tens of thousands of CCI 400s in ARs...dating back to the seventies. </div></div>

Then consider yourself lucky. The OP already admits to using a primer that would not be specified in any loading manual for the powder he's using (H335 is a spherical powder and it would call for a magnum primer as a result).

The reason CCI makes military primers for military rifles (and uses the same cups for the magnum primers) is this risk of slamfire.

I hope that everyone remembers when reloading that you are essentially building a bomb to go off within inches from your face. There is no good reason to violate the suggestions of a reloading manual in this instance. </div></div>
A slam fire will make the gun fire without you pulling the trigger. Nothing blows up. I would love to hear your theory as to how it can turn the rifle into a bomb.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hummer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Eddie, did you know Hugh Manus? </div></div>

I was acquainted with Hugh, but did not know him personally. He passed away just before I got involved in HP. I did help blast his ashes downrange.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So anyone know what the thickness is for small rifle Wolf? </div></div>

Unless someone has the figure, I'll dismantle one and measure.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How does a slamfire blow your face off? I've used tens of thousands of CCI 400s in ARs...dating back to the seventies. </div></div>

Then consider yourself lucky. The OP already admits to using a primer that would not be specified in any loading manual for the powder he's using (H335 is a spherical powder and it would call for a magnum primer as a result).

The reason CCI makes military primers for military rifles (and uses the same cups for the magnum primers) is this risk of slamfire.

I hope that everyone remembers when reloading that you are essentially building a bomb to go off within inches from your face. There is no good reason to violate the suggestions of a reloading manual in this instance.</div></div>

so can you show me a reloading manual put out by a major publication that will give you reloading information for a 223AI? Because I have the newest Nosler and the newest Hornady and neither have it.
 
Re: difference in small rifle primers

JCH, I run the CCI400's with my 223AI H-335 50gr loads. I've never ran a magnum primer in them. I've only shot a few thousands of the 223AI/335 50gr loads though, everything else I've ran through it is with '15 and 75Amax's.

I FF with around 27.5gr of '335 w/50-52's. My loads in formed brass was around 30gr for 3725 w/50's. That load was WARM though and I only ran it in the winter for coyotes. 30-31gr of H-335 with moly'd 40Vmax's was a good one too. Everything I run is with moly, just for the record.

28.5gr of '335 netted me 3600fps w/50's and was safe even in the hot summer temps for me.

SuperSeal110 has been running a Mag primer (CCI450's) in his 223AI's for the past year or so since that's all he could find. Drop him a PM.