Dillon 550C, UniqueTek Toolhead w/Clamp Kit + Foster Micro Seater = No Fit.

[DellaDog]

Anyone using the above setup?

Moving from RockChucker to Dillon & per Forster (and Redding’s) instructions for their micro seating dies I’m trying to setup the die with the base of the die touching the shell plate. “...Continue screwing the die clockwise until you have fully compressed the sliding Die Chamber. “ The problem is using the lock rings supplied with the UniqueTek head and ram fully up, the the sliding die is exposed about 3/8”. Not enough threads left to screw the die down any further.

I notice the lock rings are “thicker” than Dillon’s, but I need the supplied rings for the pin hole.

I seated about 50 rounds of Berger Hybrids and CBTO varies +- .02 or so, ES .005 at worst. Wondering if not being able to fully seat the die might be part of the problem.

Thanks for any help.

(At least I’m getting better at ensuring the ram is up and a case inserted before I hand pour powder!)

 

[DellaDog]

The clamp screws above are not installed (pulled them to play with it)

My planned setup is powder in station 1 ( auto thrower/trickler), powder check in station 2 (Varget in 223 & 4350 in 6.5 CM occasionally bridges & clogs the funnel), seating in station 3 and Redding Instant Indicator in station 4.

 

[arm017]

the seater die should be fine.
it is supported through out the entire stroke. you have the most flexibility in terms of setting that die up compared to any other dies
IE a sizing die.

plus or minus a thou or so can be bullets (even bergers) i wouldn't worry about it.

 

[wilson1911]

You need to have the shell plate full to come out better on your seating depth.

I would change lock rings for a skinnier oneif ya want, but the slider just holds it aligned.

You got the turbo bearing installed ? Get the light kit and roller handle. Inlinefab has some great stuff also.

Congrats on the new press.

 

[DellaDog]

Thanks for the responses.
Shellplate bearing kit, turbo bearing kit, inline mount, skylight and trays all installed.
I’ll have all stations full though it doesn’t seem it would make a difference as not all dies contact the shell plate.
The locked tool head should remove the slop from empty stations regardless.

After a couple hundred rounds I think it’s performing at least as well as the RockChucker.

Now if I could get through a complete session without pouring powder into an empty station I’ll be set.

 

[Strykervet]

Hey, I've ran into similar problems with certain dies using the 650. Quick fix? Install the lock ring from below if you have to. And getting a set of Dillon lock rings and going over to those helps a lot too. They're thinner and shorter so they don't get in the way with each other as much.

 

[DellaDog]

Thanks. In this case you kinda need the lock ring up top to “float” the die. I think I’ll notch a thinner Dillon ring so I can still “lock” it in place and see how that goes.

 

[padom]

Only option is to go to a standard/billet toolhead with Dillon lock ring and clamp kit to get it lower.

FWIW, I run your setup for years without issue and excellent concentricity.

 

[arm017]

You need to have the shell plate full to come out better on your seating depth.

I disagree.

 

[Sheldon N]

FWIW I don't run my Forster die sleeve to "full compression" in my Dillon 550. At the top of the ram stroke it looks more like your setup rather than a fully compressed die with no silver sleeve showing. No issues with concentricity or seating depths.

I do note that seating depth variability gets worse if I'm running heavier neck tension, but that also seems to be true on single stage presses as well.

I'd suggest checking one thing, out of personal curiosity..... take the die apart and look at the silver metal sleeve that supports the case. Can you drop a bullet all the way through it, or does the bullet get stuck? Secondly, when you have the die apart look closely at the seating stem cup. Clean it off and press a bullet by hand into the cup to create a little pressure... do you see any cracks in the seating stem?

 

[DellaDog]

I’ll take the die apart and check, thanks Sheldon.

@padom, I’ve seen a your posts on 223 loading 75 ELDMs. I’ve recently put together a 24” Mullerworks barreled 223 and working loads for it. I’m getting .25 - .5” groups with 24 grs Varget and similar with 24.1 & 24.6 of 4895. I’ve worked loads from 23.5 to 24.8 and it seems 24ish of either gets the best results at .005-.010 off the lands.

Surprisingly, my AR loads of 77 SMKs at mag length (2.255) group the most consistently at .25”

Do your ELDMs group better or do you shoot them for the higher BC.
Thanks.

 

[PatMiles]

You need to have the shell plate full to come out better on your seating depth.

On the Dillon 550 the cartridge base sits on the machine platform, the shellplate serves only to move the cartridge from one station to the next. This is why the 550 makes precision reloading with a progressive press possible. There are other procedures that need to be done to a 550 to get the best possible precision rifle rounds.
The Dillon 650 has a shellplate where the cartridge does not sit on the machine platform but within a slot, this is why a 650 shellplate has to be adjusted for the absolute minimum side to side rocking. With the 650 it is vital to have all the stations loaded when adjusting dies. It also helps to tighten down the shellplate to the point that it will not rotate and then loosen the shellplate bolt in tiny increments until the shellplate will completely rotate without dragging. Check for rotation again after tightening the set screw on the side of the ram to lock the shellplate bolt in place.

 

[PatMiles]

Thanks. In this case you kinda need the lock ring up top to “float” the die. I think I’ll notch a thinner Dillon ring so I can still “lock” it in place and see how that goes.

If I am not mistaken, the toolhead has roll pins pressed into certain stations so when the lock rings are tightened onto the dies the dies cannot rotate. If this is the case, pull the roll pin and drill the hole through the toolhead and install the roll pin into the bottom of the toolhead. Now you can put the lock ring on the bottom of the toolhead and still float the die.

 

[memilanuk]

Before there were fancy Whidden die lock rings, we just used Forster die lock rings and drilled a hole slightly bigger than the locator pin in the tool head. Later, Whidden started out selling modified Forster lock rings that had a notch cut in the outer edge - pretty sure he just clamped them together on a mill and took a pass with an end mill cutter. Or a DIY jig and a carbide toothed thin kerf table saw blade would git-r-done easily enough. But just drilling a hole works pretty well and is really easy to do.

 

[Dai Bando]

I have a few of the Whidden tool heads and prefer the standard Dillons with the Uniquetek clamp kit and an O-ring under lock ring for seating bullets. Those dang pins get in the way and you're stuck using their lock rings which are too big.

 

[memilanuk]

you're stuck using their lock rings which are too big.

No, you're not. Read my previous post.