Direct thread vs taper Mount for a bolt gun.

[SG55xdude]

Ive got a AAC Cyclone that is direct thread and a YHM QD Titanium Phantom. 308 i sent to be converted to Hub. I am converting it to get away from YHM qd mounts which i find to negatively affect accuracy.

Im going to have 2 seekins hit pro m3 rifles. I have one right now. I use Griffin Taper mount adapters on my semi auto guns. If I go plan a I can use it as a secondary can on my semi autos and have one Seekins hit pro set up for plan A.

The main drawback I can see is it being extremely difficult to remove when hot. Is there any other drawback vs sticking with direct thread?

I prefer to rocksett my hub adapter into the can i dont like switching them out really.

 

[waveslayer]

Are you running covers? I hate having to check my direct threads once in awhile to see if they are still threaded on. They tend to walk... if that isn't an issue and you dont mind direct thread, why change what isn't broken for you?

 

[SG55xdude]

Are you running covers? I hate having to check my direct threads once in awhile to see if they are still threaded on. They tend to walk... if that isn't an issue and you dont mind direct thread, why change what isn't broken for you?

The change would be to make it a more versatile can vs married to the one Seekins Hit Pro M3.
The Cyclone will likely be married to the 6.5cm rifle is backordered. If i go direct thread the yhm will be married to the one that is .308 that I also will have a .223 barrel for threaded 5/8x24.

I crank the Cyclone on hard and I have to brace the gun between my knees to break it free when done shooting but ive never done a match knocking it around.

Im just having a hard time deciding which way to go.

 

[Mr. F]

I read the whole thing and im still not fully tracking on the question

get a break if you are changing stuff on the range or whatever.

Which you can also do with hub cans just dont go crazy torque on em, put witness marks on the barrel and check em from time to time

Ive got a AAC Cyclone that is direct thread and a YHM Titanium Phantom. 308 i sent to be converted to Hub.

Im going to have 2 seekins hit pro m3 rifles. I have one right now. I use Griffin Taper mount adapters on my semi auto guns. If I go plan a I can use it as a secondary can on my semi autos and have one Seekins hit pro set up for plan A.

The main drawback I can see is it being extremely difficult to remove when hot. Is there any other drawback vs sticking with direct thread?

I prefer to rocksett my hub adapter into the can i dont like switching them out really.

 

[SG55xdude]

I read the whole thing and im still not fully tracking on the question

get a break if you are changing stuff on the range or whatever.

Which you can also do with hub cans just dont go crazy torque on em, put witness marks on the barrel and check em from time to time

Just trying to decide whether im making the yhm can direct thread by buying a direct thread adapter and marrying it to a bolt gun, or making it "plan a/Griffin taper mount" and to be a 2nd can i can use on my semi auto rifles (mostly .223). If I go "plan a" I would put a plan a muzzle device on one of my bolt guns.

I just don't know if there is much drawback to that over direct thread for a precision rifle. That is using a taper mount instead of direct thread.

 

[spife7980]

Easy: use the adaptors and use all your cans on all your rifles

 

[SG55xdude]

Easy: use the adaptors and use all your cans on all your rifles

No thanks. I like that hub allows you to use what you want but I prefer not changing the hub adapter itself. I like to rocksett them in personally. I don't want more than one component that can possibly unthread.

 

[roostercogburn98]

No thanks. I like that hub allows you to use what you want but I prefer not changing the hub adapter itself. I like to rocksett them in personally. I don't want more than one component that can possibly unthread.

Then why other having one sent off to have a hub installed? If your gonna try to make it permanent, then leave it like it was from YHM and just get QDs that fit your YHM.

Seems you want to have a hub, but don’t like the idea of having “one more moving piece” in the system. Doesn’t make sense to me

 

[SG55xdude]

Then why other having one sent off to have a hub installed? If your gonna try to make it permanent, then leave it like it was from YHM and just get QDs that fit your YHM.

Seems you want to have a hub, but don’t like the idea of having “one more moving piece” in the system. Doesn’t make sense to me

To get rid of the YHM QD mounts. It always slightly reduced accuracy for me on my .308 rifles. I asked about converting it to direct thread and the guy from Scott's silencer service said to get a direct thread adapter. So while I wait on the conversion I have these thoughts about this stuff trying to figure out if i want to stick with direct thread like my original plan or use plan a/Griffin taper.

I updated my original post to clarify it was a qd ti phantom.

 

[mark5pt56]

I can only speak of the Area 419 adapter, allows me to use either the Hellfire Match brake or the 419 hub in the Nomad 30 in which has never loosened(hub or onto the adapter) Using the wrench for the hub, high temp nickel anti seize on all threads, even the muzzle adapter, hard tight with hands on the wrenches, snug by hand when mounting onto rifle, again never an issue loosening or taking off.

 

[Mr. F]

I just don't know if there is much drawback to that over direct thread for a precision rifle. That is using a taper mount instead of direct thread.

No drawback. Bad threads on the muzzle or the hub/DT mount will hurt accuracy as much as shit taper mount. Neither will take away your ability to change the can on the fly if thats the issue you want to solve.

Putting thread locker on the HUB is a solution anxiously looking for a problem but if you re convinced its a great idea, i say do it.

 

[SG55xdude]

No drawback. Bad threads on the muzzle or the hub/DT mount will hurt accuracy as much as shit taper mount. Neither will take away your ability to change the can on the fly if thats the issue you want to solve.

Putting thread locker on the HUB is a solution anxiously looking for a problem but if you re convinced its a great idea, i say do it.

It's how AAC actually recommends if you ask them. Works great for my ranger 5 that started out a m4-2000. I see no need to use multiple mount systems for a can dedicated to semi auto .5.56 rifles. Soak in water and comes out no problem if desired. If a major manufacturer recommends as such if you don't plan changing mounts that's good enough for me.

 

[SG55xdude]

I had a Griffin long taper Mount rocksett in my ranger 5. I switched it to an echo Bravo griffin taper mount adapter because it was shorter. No problems changing just boiled in water for a few min to dissolve the rocksett. Here is email between aac and me.

 

[SG55xdude]

I ended up ordering one of these today because I think it will match the cans finish well. I may switch it later but I have a lot of projects going so this will save me money right now vs taper mount being this was $60 shipped and im done.

.

 

[Mr. F]

I ended up ordering one of these today because I think it will match the cans finish well. View attachment 8790386.

The critical discriminatory factor was how well the finish of the mount matches the can.

Case closed.

 

[nikerret]

All of my long guns are setup for the Griffin Armament Taper Mount. Make it easy.

 

[SG55xdude]

The critical discriminatory factor was how well the finish of the mount matches the can.

Case closed.

I researched a lot and they are respected. I see you get a hard on being a dick.

Finish was only one aspect but it was a factor. Ecco told me they would blast one for me but they are unavailable. You make a lot of assumptions incorrectly.