Sidearms & Scatterguns DIY m&p trigger job help

[callen3615]

Hi, I have recently acquired a m&p 9mm. I like the gun but the trigger is lacking. I knew that from the beginning and had bought an apex sear before I even got the gun. While the apex sear reduces the trigger pull from the stock sear it doesnt address pre travel, I really hoped that the apex sear would make the trigger break more crisp and less mushy. Im coming from a 1911 so the crisper the break the better, this gun has an external safety on it, and this is not a carry gun so NDs should not be an issue. I have been looking at a DIY trigger job tutorial and I decided to try it on my stock sear today.

LINK:

http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

My question is, what should I do to the sear to promote the best break? I followed the instructions in the pdf and it didnt change the break very much, I put more of a vertical angle on it with less radius and it seems to be more crisp that the apex sear. I want the trigger to have take up to the point were the trigger bar engages the sear and it promptly breaks. I thought id ask before I ruin the stock sear.

Thanks

 

[Independent]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

Have you rounded and polished the striker release button in the slide?

 

[jericho]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

Is getting the Apex Competion kit an option for you? Apparently that helps the action mimic a 1911 trigger. I don't think you will ever get the M&P trigger as good as a1911's. Close but not as good.

 

[callen3615]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jericho</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is getting the Apex Competion kit an option for you? Apparently that helps the action mimic a 1911 trigger. I don't think you will ever get the M&P trigger as good as a1911's. Close but not as good. </div></div>Yes, its just 160$ and Id need more tools to install it. I dont have the tools to properly remove the rear sight. If im going to remove the rear sight im going to just put night sights on it. So if I put the 160$ trigger in it im going to go ahead and put 140$ nights sights on it. I dont have 350$-400$ to spend on a trigger, sights, and tools. Id much prefer to contour the current sear right now.

And no, the striker block hasnt been touched.

 

[aloreman]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

just buy the apex hard sear and change the spings. the rear site can be removed with a drift and a hammer.

 

[callen3615]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aloreman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just buy the apex hard sear and change the spings. the rear site can be removed with a drift and a hammer. </div></div>

You must have missed the part where I said I already have one, it does not address the trigger break, all it does is lighten the trigger.

I contemplated removing the sight with a punch but wouldnt a sight pusher be better/safer? Ive heard the m&ps sights are particularly difficult to remove, and that you need a special tool to hold the striker pin down so you can reinstall the rear sight.

 

[jericho]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

I used a punch wrapped in paper. It moves very easily. Don't sweat it. I installed the DCAEK and believe me, I just about manage screwing in a lightbulb without breaking something

 

[angelballer]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

Punch is fine for the rear sights. I used a delrin one to keep from marring anything.

The rear tool is useful but I don't think it is really necessary. You can hold down the plunger while tapping the sights back in if you have two sets of hands.

 

[taseal]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cpt. obvious</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jericho</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is getting the Apex Competion kit an option for you? Apparently that helps the action mimic a 1911 trigger. I don't think you will ever get the M&P trigger as good as a1911's. Close but not as good. </div></div>Yes, its just 160$ and Id need more tools to install it. I dont have the tools to properly remove the rear sight. If im going to remove the rear sight im going to just put night sights on it. So if I put the 160$ trigger in it im going to go ahead and put 140$ nights sights on it. I dont have 350$-400$ to spend on a trigger, sights, and tools. Id much prefer to contour the current sear right now.

And no, the striker block hasnt been touched. </div></div>

all I used was a punch with a tape on it and a hammer.

the only tool I bought was a punch kit for like 8 bucks from amazon. the WHOLE thing took me 17 mins.

this is the first pistol I ever took apart btw.

 

[taseal]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cpt. obvious</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I contemplated removing the sight with a punch but wouldnt a sight pusher be better/safer? Ive heard the m&ps sights are particularly difficult to remove, and that you need a special tool to hold the striker pin down so you can reinstall the rear sight. </div></div>

it comes with that special tool. it's a piece of plastic wedge that you slide in. mine did not pop out this way.

it was a bitch to take out the sight with the hammer and punch, but it did take about 10 mins for that part.

you can rent a MP sight remover for 25 bucks.

 

[callen3615]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

Ok, well maybe ill try it. So should I install the apex USB? How will that improve the trigger break?

 

[taseal]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cpt. obvious</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, well maybe ill try it. So should I install the apex USB? How will that improve the trigger break? </div></div>

I did everything at once, so I can't tell, but after all 3 mods, (USB, RAM, sear) it was a noticable difference. the transition from the creep to break was smoother, but that's it. I think that's more sear though. the grittiness I think has to do more with the USB.

 

[aloreman]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

The trigger "BREAK" will not get any better no matter what you do. Obviously you dont understand how a DAO trigger works with a striker fired pistol. It is not a 1911 or a sig or beretta. When you squeeze the trigger you are actually cocking the striker and releasing it in the same action. A double action trigger will never break like glass.

 

[callen3615]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

Obviously you dont understand how a striker fired gun works. Its not a double action pull. On the m&p the only thing the trigger does is drop the striker, it doesn't cock anything. What striker fired guns do you know that cock the striker and drop it at the same time?

 

[shulette]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

I am under the impression that the striker on both the M&P and Glock is only partially tensioned. When the shooter pulls the trigger the striker is fully tensioned and then released.

 

[aloreman]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

yup that is why they can be fired in idpa as an SSP gun. All those silly idpa shooters dont know how a striker fired gun works either. lol

 

[aloreman]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

So glocks and m&ps are single action like a 1911. Now i know thanks

 

[aloreman]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

All dicketry aside the only other thing you can do to make the trigger better is to round and polish the safety plunger. other than that it is what it is

 

[callen3615]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aloreman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So glocks and m&ps are single action like a 1911. Now i know thanks </div></div>

I dont understand why people say striker fired guns are DAO when you cant pull the trigger and cock and release the striker repeatedly. The striker has to be reset just like a hammer on a 1911 every time. The only thing the trigger does on a striker fired gun is drop the striker, it doesn't cock anything, how is that double action only?

 

[plong]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

...sigh...

Its a bureaucratic issue with BATF. As I understand it a manufacturer has these check-box choices to classify the action: DAO, SAO, DA/SA ... pick one

This says it far better than I could:

As the slide of the pistol enters battery, the striker engages the sear. At this point, the sear is held back in a partially cocked condition. When the trigger of the M&P is pulled, the trigger bar first engages the firing pin safety plunger, lifting it upward, and releasing firing pin safety. At the rearward extreme of the trigger bar's travel, it engages the sear. The sear is rotated downward by the trigger bar, fully cocking, then releasing the striker. The striker makes contact with the primer of the chambered round, which in turn ignites the gunpowder and propels the bullet forward. According to renowned M&P gunsmith Dan Burwell, the angle on the rear face of the sear creates a camming action against the striker. This camming action moves the striker to the rear very slightly during the trigger pull, thus finishing the "cocking". This system is similar to the partially tensioned striker found in the Glock series of pistols. When the pistol cycles for the next shot, the striker will be automatically pre-set in a 98% cocked position. Because the striker is only 98% cocked prior to the trigger being pulled, Smith and Wesson classifies the M&P's action as "striker fired (double action only)"

In case anyone wants to further explore the issue: M&P DAO

 

[Tripwire]

Re: DIY m&p trigger job help

This isn't fucking rocket science boys.....

DCAEK + RAM + FRE = 158 bucks

Best money you will ever spend.

All you need is a 1/16" allen wrench, a drift punch, a coffee table, and a beer.......

 

[thebolt]

This isn't fucking rocket science boys.....

DCAEK + RAM + FRE = 158 bucks

Best money you will ever spend.

All you need is a 1/16" allen wrench, a drift punch, a coffee table, and a beer.......

Speak English Please. I am getting an M & P and would like to know what all this is. Thanks for the help!

 

[callen3615]

Speak English Please. I am getting an M & P and would like to know what all this is. Thanks for the help!

https://apextactical.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid11.html

If youre poor, or you think you can do better:

S&W M&P Trigger Job

Tripwire is partially right, its not rocket science, and you dont need to buy the apex parts. After poking around in both of my m&ps ive got the trigger much better than the apex parts by just using the stock parts.

Round off the striker block. Clip a coil or two off the spring. File on that sear and youre good to go. You can put an angle on the part of the sear that engages the trigger bar. File the back of the sear flat but not round. You can also take material off the top of the sear, thereby decreasing sear/striker engagement resulting in a crisper break, just dont go past 20 thousands of engagement. Just make sure to check the functionality of the striker block, I put a primed case in the pipe with the slide off the frame, upside down in a vise, grab a flat head screwdriver, pull back on the striker and let it fall. If your ears are ringing you took too much off the striker block spring, if not, youre gtg.

My homemade trigger parts are head and shoulders better than my friends apex guns. Apex is good for drop in, but if you really desire a great trigger pull you can do better by custom fitting the parts to your specific gun.

 

[MikeInUtah]

I have a m&p 9 vtac with the Apex Competion kit. I highly recommend it. Their trigger improves takeup and provides a crisp break. The rear sight for me was NOT EASY to remove. I have heard others state that it was easy to remove with a punch but mine didnt budge. I didnt want to risk mesing up the vtac sights so I got the p500 sight tool. This is a must have tool. P500 UNIVERSAL SIGHT TOOL | Brownells

It quickly and without marring removed the rear sight.

 

[Armed Citizen]

Taking mine to Doug at ATEi in Taylor, MI when I get some free time away from work.
4-4.5 lb trigger pull, reset, and polish job.