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Do you know this reamer??

mike_srt4

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Aug 4, 2019
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I had a rifle chambered with KWM Duty/Match Reamer for 308 Winchester. I’ve been trying to track down the reamer prints. I’ve been having some issues with load development and think my neck may be too big.
Checking to see if anyone knows this reamer. I reached out to JGS and they have it but it’s not public. She said the owner generally release it but haven’t heard back yet. Seeing if I can find some info out faster through here.
Exodus Rifles Chambered it, haven’t been able to get in contact with them either.
 
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I had a rifle chambered with KWM Duty/Match Reamer for 308 Winchester. I’ve been trying to track down the reamer prints. I’ve been having some issues with load development and think my neck may be too big.
Checking to see if anyone knows this reamer. I reached out to JGS and they have it but it’s not public. She said the owner generally release it but haven’t heard back yet. Seeing if I can find some info out faster through here.
Exodus Rifles Chambered it, haven’t been able to get in contact with them either.
Whats the fired neck diameter of the case?
 
Whats the fired neck diameter of the case?
Fired Case .341
Loaded round .337
Carbon is heavier than what I’m used to, and it’s all the way around my necks. Some are making it to the shoulder after firing.
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Fired Case .341
Loaded round .337
Carbon is heavier than what I’m used to, and it’s all the way around my necks. Some are making it to the shoulder after firing.
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View attachment 8226265
We can safely say the neck isnt too large in diameter. SAAMI .308 neck is ~.344, and youre likely .342 or thereabouts, as necks typically spring back .001 or so after firing.

Sooty necks are usually caused by work hardened necks, too little chamber pressure, or just dirty powder. What I see in your pics doesn't look bad to me though.

Whats the load recipe exactly, how many firings on the brass, hows it shoot, etc?
 
Exodus Rifles was a one man operation ( Joe Walls) under an umbrella of another company.

A couple of months ago Joe started his own company. I would call him and ask about your rifle.

 
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We can safely say the neck isnt too large in diameter. SAAMI .308 neck is ~.344, and youre likely .342 or thereabouts, as necks typically spring back .001 or so after firing.

Sooty necks are usually caused by work hardened necks, too little chamber pressure, or just dirty powder. What I see in your pics doesn't look bad to me though.

Whats the load recipe exactly, how many firings on the brass, hows it shoot, etc?
That’s good, I’m newer to reloading (on my second year.) I’ve had success with a previous 308, and a 6BR. I’m having issues finding an accurate load.
First attempt VV N150, CCI BR-2, Lapua LRP, Berger 185 jug.
Second attempt is IMR 4064, GM210M, Lapua LRP, Berger 185 jug.
Rifle Impact NBK, Krieger Rem Var 1:10, TT Diamond, Foundation Revelation, EC BR Tuner Brake.
Reload Equip:
AMP Anneal and Anneal after every fire, Zero Press, SAC sizing and seating die, CPS primer, V3 with Ingenuity Trickler, Henderson trimmer.
I keep my process the same every time. And for load develop I do exact on the powder charge, Sort primers, and separate brass base on bump to .0005 and primer pocket to .0005 in attempt to keep as consistent as possible.
 
I had a rifle chambered with KWM Duty/Match Reamer for 308 Winchester. I’ve been trying to track down the reamer prints. I’ve been having some issues with load development and think my neck may be too big.
Checking to see if anyone knows this reamer. I reached out to JGS and they have it but it’s not public. She said the owner generally release it but haven’t heard back yet. Seeing if I can find some info out faster through here.
Exodus Rifles Chambered it, haven’t been able to get in contact with them either.
Your reamer has a 0.342" neck diameter.

.
 
Are you using a comparator to set your seating depth/jump?
"Match" reamers usually have extended freebore.
 
It may not be the reamer. It could be rifling, crown or another issue.

The carbon on the necks doesn’t appear to show any issue with the chamber or the brass.
 
Have you double checked that your scope isn’t loose and is gtg in all other aspects? Consistent cheek weld? If that’s all good, have someone else shoot it who is proficient; that’s not a knock on you, rather it makes for a sanity check and point of reference before you go off the deep end trying to fix it. If they have the same results you know the issue is somewhere on the rifle.
 
Have you double checked that your scope isn’t loose and is gtg in all other aspects? Consistent cheek weld? If that’s all good, have someone else shoot it who is proficient; that’s not a knock on you, rather it makes for a sanity check and point of reference before you go off the deep end trying to fix it. If they have the same results you know the issue is somewhere on the rifle.
I did double check the scope after shooting to see and it was 30”lbs. base and 18” on rings. I will have a buddy shoot to see, that’s a good call. Open to any possibilities including myself.
 
Check for a loose brake or lose the brake completely to see if it makes a difference.
I had an EC tuner brake come loose on me.
Mine has no flats where it shoulders up to the barrel to put a wrench on.
 
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I took the brake off, re-torqued the scope. Going to head back out for some more groups with FGMM to see what it looks like.
 
Check action screw torque too

If no joy then try a different scope, they do break.
Good call on the action screws. I’m in the middle of shooting right now. It’s definitely doing better. I just re-torqued action screws to 55” and they did move a little before reaching torque.
I had to throw my suppressor on, I forgot my neighbors are preparing for a party and trying not to be too much of a nuisance.
Putting the suppressor on also tightened the groups up a bit. It appears to be shooting more respectable for FGMM. I’ll throw my target up when I’m done.
Thinking the brake or scope were the culprit.
 
Good call on the action screws. I’m in the middle of shooting right now. It’s definitely doing better. I just re-torqued action screws to 55” and they did move a little before reaching torque.
I had to throw my suppressor on, I forgot my neighbors are preparing for a party and trying not to be too much of a nuisance.
Putting the suppressor on also tightened the groups up a bit. It appears to be shooting more respectable for FGMM. I’ll throw my target up when I’m done.
Thinking the brake or scope were the culprit.
Could try without a muzzle device too, eliminate another variable.

If no joy there could very well be a broken scope. Make sure everything is mounted perfectly. Even consider remounting everything to double confirm.

I had a scope a few years back that suffered a small impact. Like a drop from 1 foot onto a linoleum floor. Broken. Never was able to get it re zeroed. They are a lot more fragile than people like to think.
 
I wanted to get out and shoot yesterday due to inclement weather today.
I forgot my neighbor was getting ready for a party so ended up putting my suppressor on after the 3 shot group no brake.
Taking the muzzle device off resulted in a decent POI shift. 2 targets low, and 2 left. That was the fouler group bottom row far left.
I adjusted the scope and started the groups top row far left working towards the right.

Top row 3rd from the left was when I put the suppressor on. POI shifted back up about 2.5 targets. I was aiming at the second row as I anticipated a shift back up with the weight be added back. Adjusted scope and shot 3 shots it was the small cluster on the right. I loaded 3 more and kept shooting the same point.
It was looking decent so I loaded 5 more and shot another group to the right.

It opened up so I decided to adjust barrel tuner to see if I could tighten up and get some consistent consecutive groups.
The second row down is all tuner adjusting/testing. Then the 3rd row down is confirming. The setting 0 was double grouping. However all of these are much better than what I was getting before. Must have been a loose brake or scope.

Rifle weighs 11lbs and the 308 punches much more than in my previous 20lb rigs. Perhaps things loosened up a bit. Before each time I’ll be sure to tighten everything. I’ll go back to load development and see what happens.
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No, they were done after.
Could be your issue.

Were any other structural or functional modifications done to the rifle after Joe shipped it to you.

My first course of action is to stick with FGMM ammo for purposes of a known control.
2nd COA would be to remove your scope and throw a proven performer on, then shoot more test groups under good conditions.

If the rifle still performs erratically, I would suspect the barrel mods.

KMW and a lot of other shops would 1000% not stand behind any rifle shipped that had an invasive barrel mod done to it afterward.
In fact, most would not stand behind a rifle that ANY barrel mods had been done once it leaves their shop.

.
 
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Here’s the follow up.
Changed scopes and still shot between .35-1” groups with FGMM. No consistency whatsoever.
So this is where I’m at.
IMG_8616.jpeg

Off with the 308, back to the 6BR. This 6BR barrel belongs to another Impact action that I have out to a gun smith.
Im putting it on here and using all of the same gear to see if it still shoots well. If all is good then I can isolate the issue to something with the barrel.
I’m sure the load will need to be tweaked a bit. But still have some ammo loaded up, so I’ll start there.
Here’s a group I shot with the 6BR on my other action.
Ballistic-X-Export-2023-01-01 19:58:53.990453.jpeg
 
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Here’s the follow up.
Changed scopes and still shot between .35-1” groups with FGMM. No consistency whatsoever.
So this is where I’m at.
View attachment 8233423
Off with the 308, back to the 6BR. This 6BR barrel belongs to another Impact action that I have out to a gun smith.
Im putting it on here and using all of the same gear to see if it still shoots well. If all is good than I can isolate the issue to something with the barrel.
I’m sure the load will need to be tweaked a bit. But still have some ammo loaded up, so I’ll start there.
Here’s a group I shot with the 6BR on my other action.
View attachment 8233427
Here are the group that lead to the decision….

I measured the best and the worst group for reference.
Ballistic-X-Export-2023-09-24 10:49:57.388479.jpeg
 
So this was a barrel that was sent off to LRI for fluting? What kind of barrel is it?
 
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This is just me and not taking shots at the OP, but I have never understood the desire for fancy fluting which is always cut after the barrel maker has drilled, rifled, lapped, and stress relieved a premium barrel blank.

I just don't see how that can ever help anything, but I'm often wrong! haha
 
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This is just me and not taking shots at the OP, but I have never understood the desire for fancy fluting which is always cut after the barrel maker has bored, lapped, and stress relieved a premium barrel blank.

I just don't see how that can ever help anything, but I'm often wrong! haha
I see your point, now. Lol
The fluting wasn’t aesthetic, although I tried to make it that way after it was done. I was after weight reduction for a lighter weight hunting rifle.
I did see an interview with Frank Green and Erik Cortina that helped me understand the stressing induced to the barrel, which can effect the barrel. Unfortunately this was all done before I saw that video.
I was hoping for the best but think I was one of the unlucky.
 
That's a lot of cutting on the barrel after it's been cut and done up. Probably going to be the issue. I don't know any precision smiths who will do that after a barrel has been made ready. Don't feel too bad, I had a buddy flute one of mine after it was chambered and all before I knew it could mess em up too. In my case it was pretty light straight flutes though so probably wasn't enough to cause an issue and it's continued to shoot exceptionally well, but it's also a .223 so likely more metal there all around and that's why I got by with it. I would not do it again and I bet you won't either. Lesson learned. It looks really cool though and should be ok to hunt with
 
In my professional opinion, I would not ever do that to a barrel.

But what would I know?

Mike R.

Nuthin. Nuthin at all. 😉


OP, sorry yer barrel is hosed.
Based on yer reported reloading gear, you aint broke, so just get another spun up.
Or step up big and call Mike R……
 
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Nuthin. Nuthin at all. 😉


OP, sorry yer barrel is hosed.
Based on yer reported reloading gear, you aint broke, so just get another spun up.
Or step up big and call Mike R……
Because I my setup I am broke!🤣 I have some other projects in line. I may come back around to the 308 and order a new one.
 
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**Update
I was cleaning by bolt and discovered some drag that was taking place. Looks like it was the roll pin. In a few weeks I may spin the 308 barrel back on and see if that was the culprit.
I didn’t notice that before, but perhaps after more firing’s it was enough to make the mark. My 6BR barrel I spun on was not performing as well as it did before. That led me to further inspection and I discovered the dragging.
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Got out to do some testing with ballistic gel today for the Tubb Nose ring tool on some 103gr 6mm vapor trails. While doing that I was also Chronographing all the shots and shot a couple groups.
I can’t speak for the 308 barrel yet but the 6BR barrel was substantially better. The outing before I noticed the drag marks my groups were 3/4-1” which was way out of line for the BR barrel. Also SD was 12 es 52.
Shot 18 rounds today SD 5.9 ES 18, shot 2 groups which I’ll post below both just under 1/2”. Which was very happy with considering the load was worked up on a different action.
The action this was devolved on is on its way back to me. Once it comes back I’ll put the BR barrel back, then spin the 308 back on and see how it performs.
Ballistic-X-Export-2023-10-15 15:13:10.912187.jpg

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Cool shot I got with my iPhone slomo..
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Got my action back from Speedy so I am putting this barrel back on to see if I can get it to shoot.

Also, I recently switched from Cortina/Satterlee method, to a OCW style for load development.
Load for this is as follows:
Lapua LRP
CCI BR-2
Berger 185 Jug
VV N150

The printing on paper looks good @ 42.5-43.0 as far as impact area. However looking at the 44.0-44.5 the diagonal is something I question, but the SD/ES looks great there. Can that be tuned out with seating depth?

Thoughts and feedback are appreciated.

OCW VV N150 42.5-44.5.jpg
 
Got my action back from Speedy so I am putting this barrel back on to see if I can get it to shoot.

Also, I recently switched from Cortina/Satterlee method, to a OCW style for load development.
Load for this is as follows:
Lapua LRP
CCI BR-2
Berger 185 Jug
VV N150

The printing on paper looks good @ 42.5-43.0 as far as impact area. However looking at the 44.0-44.5 the diagonal is something I question, but the SD/ES looks great there. Can that be tuned out with seating depth?

Thoughts and feedback are appreciated.

View attachment 8281648
Others may have better advice, but I would do a 5 or 10 shot group with the 42.5. If that group holds near to that then go with it - load, seating depth, etc. seems like you have found a good combo there.
 
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Your sd is super high. Thats not a good sign about your brass prep. I dont see a group for the 44.5 but even without it based on the numbers id start there and do a seating test. From .005 off to as far as .120 off in .003 increments. Obviously thats a lot of shooting so you can do it in .010 and see if a certain place shows promise then tune from there. Or you could chalk it up as a bad barrel and just use it for practice. Dont waste 1k$ on bullets to save a 700$ barrel
 
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Well I got out and shot some Federal GMM 168gr. Shot through a box and a half with an SD of 6.8. Stacked several in the same hole. I was sighting in for a shot on a fox at 194 yds. (Going after my chickens).
I used the Tubb nose ring and made a .055” cut. Barrel worked great for that!
My confidence that the issue was the bolt and not the barrel is increasing. I’ll play around with some more load development the end of the month.
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