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Suppressors DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

raptor99

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 18, 2005
718
35
Pierre SD
I am looking a at putting a can on a 92FS Beretta. I was told I would need the LCD or booster to make if function reliably.

I was also told you "DON'T" need one and then was told to put a Wolf spring in it and it would work great with the can.

SOoo...Do any of you guys have a 92 with a can and what is your findings?? Please I just want to hear from the guys who actually are shooting them. Thanks!!!!!!
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

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Never.....The original contract dating way back for fielded service Air Force cans were delivered over and over and over without Neilson devices. They are NOT needed. AWC Abraxis.

Why? The barrel doesn't tip up.

If you have a brand new Berreta get a 10 or 11 pound Wolff spring, done. But know this, you may not need even a new spring on a well designed can.
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

agreed. I run a SWR Trident without booster on a M92. It was a new gun when I started and it did need a 10lbs Wolff spring. If your can weighs more than a Trident then it probably wont work even with 10lbs spring. You can't run a big subgun can or even a 3 lug, they weigh too much.
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

Thanks for the replies guys that is what I was looking for!! What do you guys feel is the best can for the 92 for sound reduction and function??

I was looking at the SWR Trident, Gemtech multimount or the AAC Evo 9. Any preferences amoung them or do you have experience with any other you would recommend?? Thanks again guys!!
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

Look,

There are some great cans out there. As long as you take the time to hear this one as well you will be at least hearing one worth buying. It is 100% titanium and weighs 3 ounces. The idea is a small can, not a friggin canoe hanging off your host. It is a wet can? Yes, it is a wet can. 4 cc of lithium is all it takes to cut the can size in half...in half and its smaller than most .22 cans. I use 148gr FMJ subsonic cartridges that are about 360 Ft. lbs of muzzle energy. Compare that to the 230gr .45 ACP at 325 Ft. Lbs. and your there. All that at 3.3 ounces. I wasn't just designed and speced for any 9mm, it was designed for your 9mm. No aluminum to be found anywhere in it.

http://www.awcsystech.com/products/suppressors/titanium-abraxas-9mm/

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Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

Rollingthunder51,
When you say its a wet can does that mean you "Have" to use lithium with it "All" the time?? Thank you for the reply I really appreciate the comments and help. I only want to buy once.
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

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Great question, the answer is no, but the performance is not as good.

Look, the issue with pistol cans is one of actual use. If the idea is to go to the range and bang away all day, say 50 or 250 rounds and you want every round suppressed, well then you need a can that is based on volume and good baffle design. Those cans are typically larger, much larger, both to take the heat and to allow the operator to not have to stop to apply an ablative. In the old days, people would dip, essentially dipping their cans into water as they shot to cool the can and provide the effects of a "wet" environment. Water works, it works well, but it is the shortest lasting of all ablatives. That and some people, including myself dont want water. Now we could take about what works better as there are a number of solutions that work well and very differently.

If you are expecting to shot less, say 10-50 rounds and you want an equally quiet can and are willing to take the time to go wet, well your can dimensions (and the design to some degree) changes dramatically. When suppressors for your pistol were first designed for the armed forces, the idea was clandestine use, far fewer rounds suppressed than the typical YouTube video fest. Size was as important an issue as suppression and accuracy. Hence a 3.3 oz can that when filled with lithium is astonishingly quiet for its size.

How difficult is it to do? Here are the directions for another wet/dry can, this one is a dry design so it is larger. Larger means you can pack more grease, here 10ccs. All this "stuff" comes with the can. Many people over inject, or inject from the muzzle end and then complain about the "mess" of a wet can. Understandable as they have too much in the wrong location. If you do it properly it all works very well. Or you can just go dry and go much larger and heavier. Both work.

AWCGREASEDIRECTIONSS.jpg


Remember dirty and absolutely filthy suppressors are by and large the quietest.

Hear as many brands and as many models and types as you can. You will be surprised how fast these things shake out.

A small can and pistol has some advantageous.

 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

i wouldn't used that lithium stuff unless i could take apart my can. what a freakin mess that would be.
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

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So I'll take that question. Cans that use lithium grease last for ever...for ever. It acts exactly like a preservative. Firstly it keeps much of the crap in suspension and then it moves forward. The more nastier it gets, the quieter it gets and less is needed over time. Rather than building up, lithium when exposed to heat liquifies and moves forward. It certainly creates more turbulance. This is not a crusting agent, cans that are opened reveal superb internals, really excellent, far better than cans without. Far better than cans that see even occassional water (and the barrels too). Neilsons, when present, are much more protected as the lithium provides lubrication to both the bearing slide surfaces (these should be broad and at least two) and, in some designed, the spring to cup wear as well. One is reminded to replace Neilson springs as they are all a wear item, replace the spring or beat it out of your barrel and slide. I would also mention that rear pulls also lube the barrel thread as well, protecting that. In use for close to 20 years in 1" diameter cans and larger, lithium. Never in a rifle can (hydraulic lock is possible). Lithium in a titanium pistol can gets you as close to the smallest, lightest, quietest configuration possible for one clip.

Smoke, yes, at first it smokes, the dirtier it gets the less it smokes. Now, as I said, wet cans are not for everybody. Lithium ablatives have to be properly managed and that is not for everybody. But make no mistake about it, lithium works and lasts for more than a water ablative. Now if one is a can cleaner, well there isn't much hope past the tolerances of a crack can for that person anyway. IMO, centerfire cans should not come apart. IMO, a properly designed rimfire can should not come apart either. But that is a whole other discussion.

For those that can't help themselves, high pressure tool cleans out whatever is left behind. Rarely if ever used, certainly not within 1,000s and 1,000s of centerfire rounds.

IMG_0D021.jpg


The loading tool distributes the lithium perfectly.

mediugm.jpg




 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

RT, while I don't agree 100% w/ your pro thread on stance; I am very interested in the Abraxxas can. Short and light. How many rounds does the grease last? How messy is it? W/ out the grease how tolerable is it? Thanks in advance! Merry Xmas.
 
Re: DO you need the booster with a Beretta 92??

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Turk,

Don't miss understand, I use QD as well. I am not 100% on anything. I am, however, very much aware of the impact(s) of QD and how little folks actually understand it. QD has nothing to do with making a can better, just the opposite, it does however provide a medium brake and/or flash suppression and a faster way than 12 seconds to get a can on. It is all good, just not blindly goofy good.

Back to the Abraxis. There are few cans that have been around the horn like the Abraxis. But, in titanium the Abraxis is reasonably new and with the new gas cut titanium baffles, it is the highpoint of the design series. Tiny, smaller than most .22s and when wet good for about 8-12 rounds and then you get the high frequency, sharper tonality of a dry can. Now the can is 1" in diamter and only 5+" long so the can is tiny and super light. How messy? well for the first 100 rounds it will smoke and, if you keep it to 4ccs not spit but aspirate slightly at the crown.

Of all the cans, this is the one that most surprises folks with its remarkable efficiency. When they ask, "why aren't all cans this small?", you tell them "8 rounds, 8 rounds." The issue to making this all work is what I beat the drum about allot around here, the close tolerances of the bore. So little time, such a small distance to strip the gases, things have to be tight and right. Honestly, its a gem that fits in your pocket.

Listen here and remember all You Tube videos are crap, utter and complete misrepresentations of the actual sound. But, listen and you will get it. See the smoke? That tells me this can has seen no more than a hundred rounds and that he knows how to load it up. Listen to the projectile crack in the woods. That tells me this little <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">3 ounce </span></span>can is doing its job. 10 rounds, with a tight check at 5 says a reasonably intelligent guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiydeLWWIkU

Now lets take it inside. Here the guy allows us to here it inside a close range. He overloads, or the can is new and gets spackled.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wJIMwwYWiI&feature=related

Now lets look at what I believe to be a dry can. This can is much larger, volume based, using a mono block design out of aluminum. Hey it is what it is a factory video. THis is a <span style="font-weight: bold">11 oz can</span>. Go to 3:00.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NShmby7pJJU

Hope that helped. Look, everybody should hear as many cans as they can. It doesn;t take a rocket scientist to distill these rigs down very fast.
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