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Does brass case brand really matter?

For my 65 Creedmoor
I use mostly Hornady
When shooting PRS lost brass type of match's they do really good with a little extra prep
I also have a set of lapua SRP that i use in our local f-class match they do give slightly better results with less initial prep
PS
And i anneal every 2 firings
 
I bought 3 boxes of factory Hornady ammo to shoot and break in my 338LM RPR. So far I've reloaded them 8 times. Trimmed them twice. No loose pockets. No problems of any kind so far. Bought some of the BR-15 stamped Lapua brass when Midway had it. Took 15 rds and have reloaded it side by side with the Hornady brass to compare. Only reloaded the Lapua maybe 4 times, trimmed it once. Really see no difference in loading or accuracy between the two.
 
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OFG,

If I measured .002” variance in the necks at $1 per case, I’d seriously consider packing it up and sending it back. I don’t go through a LOT of brass, but I do check all new cases and rarely have seen a new premium case that bad.

I guess I should have said all that prep work SHOULD already be done on premium brass, by the MFG.

Peterson Select has been awesome for me. 200 cases all +\- .5 gn and less than .0005” variation in the necks.

To be honest, there’s Top 10 PRS shooters using Hornady brass (not sure how much prep work they put into it). I’d imagine if those cases with all sorts of variations still shot 5/8MOA or better, I’d probably just shoot it.

My Peterson brass has over three times the variation you have in neck thickness. Maybe I should send it back. I wasnt impressed frankly. However weight was within 1.5 grain across a 25 case sample.

My nosler custom is waaay better than peterson.
 
I don't know how many firings I have on my lapua SRP 6.5 CM brass. Has to be close to 15. I have about 200 cases. I anneal every time. I have had 4 split necks and the primer pockets are still tight. I doesn't grow, I have found no signs of case separation. It's been in 2 different barrels. Quality brass is worth the extra money in my opinion. One less thing to worry about and if you get more firings its cheaper in the long run.
What is your annealing method?
 
I weighed half a dozen of my Alpha 6.5CM brass when they first arrived and they were all the exact same. Not even a .1gr variance.
Necks all measure within a half thou, and I use a mandrel after I size the necks anyway.
 
My Peterson brass has over three times the variation you have in neck thickness. Maybe I should send it back. I wasnt impressed frankly. However weight was within 1.5 grain across a 25 case sample.

My nosler custom is waaay better than peterson.

Yes, I’d tell you to call them up and send it directly back to them, if you’d like.

.0015” I’m not sure how I feel about. I wouldn’t be happy about it.

Ive been extremely pleased with Peterson Brass and the customer service provided to me.

?
 
I've been reloading since 1982, I'm retired so an I don't have tons of money, but I shoot Lapua brass ( 90% ) of the time
" costly " but well worth it for the longevity in case life .......... ( 5% ) for Norma & Peterson. My main rifles are a 6.5CM
& 6MM BR Norma I have others, but these get the most use weekly........ Consistency, Consistency the name of the game.
 
I loaded LC 5,56 brass 25 times with out annealing it. That was at a time when no one was talking about annealing at home. I have Winchester 300WM brass at 17, it is retired for now. The first hundred pieces of Lapua 308 brass I bought only lasted 1 firing.

I have never neck turned, weight sorted, duburred a flash hole, uniformed a primer pocket. People win PRS matches with factory ammo correct? because the factory doesn't do that stuff either.

Getting Hornady brass to 10, is about the same amortized value as getting Lapua to 20.
 
I have shot some of the brass mentioned in this thread and like Lapua a lot for consistency. Mostly it is Hornady but I am reloading some 1X shot Nosler. I am impressed with its consistency as to size and weight. I'd buy more of it. Hornady is all over the page to segregation by weight. Lapua and Nosler are about equal. Have not tried the Alpha or Peterson.
 
Yes, I’d tell you to call them up and send it directly back to them, if you’d like.

.0015” I’m not sure how I feel about. I wouldn’t be happy about it.

Ive been extremely pleased with Peterson Brass and the customer service provided to me.

?

Im sending it back. Just ordered some alpha.
 
I have shot some of the brass mentioned in this thread and like Lapua a lot for consistency. Mostly it is Hornady but I am reloading some 1X shot Nosler. I am impressed with its consistency as to size and weight. I'd buy more of it. Hornady is all over the page to segregation by weight. Lapua and Nosler are about equal. Have not tried the Alpha or Peterson.

The nosler custom i got for my 7mag was near perfect in every way. Weight, neck thickness, zero runout, flash holes chamfered and necks chamfered and deburred. The only possible thing left to do woukd be to use a mandrel to set the exact nevk tension you want. All sorting and case ops were done. I want o try the alpha, but it would be tough to beat the nosler.
 
I've been loading with Hornady brass for 6.5cm. I've read and seen a lot of people suggest or use Alpha, Lapua, Peterson and others. Do you really see a big difference in accuracy for the PRS sport? What about case life?

I'm only four firings into my cases and I anneal after every third firing. Curious what others have to say and what your experience has been?

Thanks
Just case life, And a good case limits grams of certain powder, some of the old Speer reloading manuals, show cases cut side view of bases, the best I've ever were Norma in 25 06 and the 220 swift, even Hornadys new cases weights per 250, has three weight levels and avg. .009 to .011 per case. Myself 50 yrs.hunting loads shoot and reload till case splits or primer blows, the 223, 224 V, 223 WSM and the 220 Swift, is picky, all same amounts of reloads, tho being a reloaded a rifle kinda likes different stuff, just now testing the 224 V factory every box from 62 to 90 grains the Hornady 75 match and the Barnes 69 gr. Is shooting.
0.760 @ 100 yes, It all makes a different when shooting a dime
 
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I set it so they just barely turn red in a dark room.

That’s what I was doing and started getting split necks also, I changed my method to heating the case until right before you get a red flame behind the case. Any red in the flame and you are burning stuff out of the brass
 
That’s what I was doing and started getting split necks also, I changed my method to heating the case until right before you get a red flame behind the case. Any red in the flame and you are burning stuff out of the brass
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I'll try backing it off a bit. I recently started getting deep scratches it my case necks too. which could be a cause. I cleaned my die really well and stuck my bore scope in it. Looked like there is some pitting in the transition from taper to case neck. Well sent it to redding they are gonna check it out.