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Re: drilling thru steel
it can be drilled but that can be hard, get some weldall or stainless steel welding rods and re weld it they wont break off. When welding manganese steel for crusher jaws we have to use stainless even low hydrogen electrodes will just sheer of if the lifting lugs are hit with a hammer but weld them with stainless steen electrodes they are completly safe it does not make the hardened steel as fragile.
it can be drilled but that can be hard, get some weldall or stainless steel welding rods and re weld it they wont break off. When welding manganese steel for crusher jaws we have to use stainless even low hydrogen electrodes will just sheer of if the lifting lugs are hit with a hammer but weld them with stainless steen electrodes they are completly safe it does not make the hardened steel as fragile.
Re: drilling thru steel
I've never tried it on AR500, but If possible I would use a drill press and some wd40. I would imagine it will take some time, and a few bits. .
I've never tried it on AR500, but If possible I would use a drill press and some wd40. I would imagine it will take some time, and a few bits. .
Re: drilling thru steel
i figured if I had it rewelded that it will mess with the heat treatment since the welds for the mounts are along the whole middle of the backside of the plate. The plate was cut with a torch not water jet and the edges damage when it gets hit hard with a high power round close up
i figured if I had it rewelded that it will mess with the heat treatment since the welds for the mounts are along the whole middle of the backside of the plate. The plate was cut with a torch not water jet and the edges damage when it gets hit hard with a high power round close up
Re: drilling thru steel
Don't let the weld zones get to hot and don't use more weld than necessary and you will be fine. Use stitch welds and skip around while welding so you don't heat up any area any more than you have to. While welding don't dick around and go slow, keep the puddle moving. You really shouldn't need much weld at all. If you have a silhouette with a post welded to the back then all you should need is about 4 1 1/2" - 2" long stitch welds on each side of the post, and stagger them. What process are you welding with?
Don't let the weld zones get to hot and don't use more weld than necessary and you will be fine. Use stitch welds and skip around while welding so you don't heat up any area any more than you have to. While welding don't dick around and go slow, keep the puddle moving. You really shouldn't need much weld at all. If you have a silhouette with a post welded to the back then all you should need is about 4 1 1/2" - 2" long stitch welds on each side of the post, and stagger them. What process are you welding with?
Re: drilling thru steel
It can be done with caution. A drill press is a must. Buy a cobalt drill use a slow speed and use plenty of coolant. If you have power feed use it. If not use a steady heavy feed rate so as not to allow the drill bit to work harden the steel.
I would look into a local machine shop to help you out. Take a case of beer and see what they will do for you.
Good luck!
It can be done with caution. A drill press is a must. Buy a cobalt drill use a slow speed and use plenty of coolant. If you have power feed use it. If not use a steady heavy feed rate so as not to allow the drill bit to work harden the steel.
I would look into a local machine shop to help you out. Take a case of beer and see what they will do for you.
Good luck!
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dinosdeuce</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It can be done with caution. A drill press is a must. Buy a cobalt drill use a slow speed and use plenty of coolant. If you have power feed use it. If not use a steady heavy feed rate so as not to allow the drill bit to work harden the steel. </div></div>
This
Pay particular attention to feed rate, if you aren't applying enough pressure you are just burning the tip off the bit and hardening the material to the point that your next bit won't have a chance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dinosdeuce</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would look into a local machine shop to help you out. Take a case of beer and see what they will do for you. </div></div>
This is an even better idea. Be up front about what type of material it is, they may choose to use carbide cutters instead of cobalt but telling them after they burn a bit will not make you any friends.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dinosdeuce</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It can be done with caution. A drill press is a must. Buy a cobalt drill use a slow speed and use plenty of coolant. If you have power feed use it. If not use a steady heavy feed rate so as not to allow the drill bit to work harden the steel. </div></div>
This
Pay particular attention to feed rate, if you aren't applying enough pressure you are just burning the tip off the bit and hardening the material to the point that your next bit won't have a chance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dinosdeuce</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would look into a local machine shop to help you out. Take a case of beer and see what they will do for you. </div></div>
This is an even better idea. Be up front about what type of material it is, they may choose to use carbide cutters instead of cobalt but telling them after they burn a bit will not make you any friends.
Re: drilling thru steel
I have drilled through 3/8" AR 500 with a SteelMax drill. It worked the bit over fairly decent, and it took a while. Cutting fluid is a must.
I have drilled through 3/8" AR 500 with a SteelMax drill. It worked the bit over fairly decent, and it took a while. Cutting fluid is a must.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CST</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it for me to drill a couple holes into my AR500 plate? Is it possible? My welds broke on the mount so I figure I put some holes into it to hang</div></div>
How big is the plate?
There are a bunch of steel dealers here that have some really good deals. By the time you buy a few new drill bits, some cutting oil and ruin an entire day of your weekend.....I think you'd be surprised how cheap a plate with holes already in it is.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CST</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it for me to drill a couple holes into my AR500 plate? Is it possible? My welds broke on the mount so I figure I put some holes into it to hang</div></div>
How big is the plate?
There are a bunch of steel dealers here that have some really good deals. By the time you buy a few new drill bits, some cutting oil and ruin an entire day of your weekend.....I think you'd be surprised how cheap a plate with holes already in it is.
Re: drilling thru steel
^ + 1 thats some good advice right there
^ + 1 thats some good advice right there
Re: drilling thru steel
give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron
give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER.
Re: drilling thru steel
I had some old HWY sign posts that I needed to drill the existing holes bigger (those green ones with the holes spaced every 2"). It tore up HSS and even cobalt drills in no time, but a masonry drill did the trick. It was for my steel target frame:
I'm not sure how they would fare on armor plate, but I'd have to try it before I conclusively declared that they would not work. You might be surprised.
Cheers,
Bill
I had some old HWY sign posts that I needed to drill the existing holes bigger (those green ones with the holes spaced every 2"). It tore up HSS and even cobalt drills in no time, but a masonry drill did the trick. It was for my steel target frame:
I'm not sure how they would fare on armor plate, but I'd have to try it before I conclusively declared that they would not work. You might be surprised.
Cheers,
Bill
Re: drilling thru steel
Just google welding ar500 steel, alot of the welding forums have alot of info on it... I would post links to what I found, but it's pretty easily accessable info..
Just google welding ar500 steel, alot of the welding forums have alot of info on it... I would post links to what I found, but it's pretty easily accessable info..
Re: drilling thru steel
Just had some done - I've not checked it but I know its in excess of of 500 BHN.
Luckily I know a few machine shops that are used to machining Ni Alloys (any guys in Houston should be able to find someone similar).
The machine shop got through it with a 5mm carbide tip, the comment from the machinist was 'it was a bit tough...' Done on a cash basis its cost me around $30.
Just had some done - I've not checked it but I know its in excess of of 500 BHN.
Luckily I know a few machine shops that are used to machining Ni Alloys (any guys in Houston should be able to find someone similar).
The machine shop got through it with a 5mm carbide tip, the comment from the machinist was 'it was a bit tough...' Done on a cash basis its cost me around $30.
Re: drilling thru steel
Try these Hi-Roc drills:
http://www.airtekltd.com/ford_24.htm
According to my conversion chart, 500 Brinnell is ~ 51 HRC, and those are for use on up to 65 HRC material....
Bill
Try these Hi-Roc drills:
http://www.airtekltd.com/ford_24.htm
According to my conversion chart, 500 Brinnell is ~ 51 HRC, and those are for use on up to 65 HRC material....
Bill
Re: drilling thru steel
Take a Plasma cutter and cut the holes you want and Bolt, and Washer it to the chains.
Take a Plasma cutter and cut the holes you want and Bolt, and Washer it to the chains.
Re: drilling thru steel
esab dual shield II 110 wire for your mig, preheat steel to 400 deg F ,use laser to temp it "harbor freight" as mentioned before KEEP MOVING! dont drag around , if its glowing red you just got it too hot.
OR just take your plate to any good size industrial fab shop with high def plasma table and let em cut you some real purdy cnc holes to run some big fat chains through. prob solved
esab dual shield II 110 wire for your mig, preheat steel to 400 deg F ,use laser to temp it "harbor freight" as mentioned before KEEP MOVING! dont drag around , if its glowing red you just got it too hot.
OR just take your plate to any good size industrial fab shop with high def plasma table and let em cut you some real purdy cnc holes to run some big fat chains through. prob solved
Re: drilling thru steel
definite plasma if you go hole route , dont waste time money on drill , it sux.
definite plasma if you go hole route , dont waste time money on drill , it sux.
Re: drilling thru steel
use a cutting torch (oxy/ acetylene, NO propane it's the shits) or plasma don't piss around with drilling if the holes are just for bolts and chain you only need to be close, CNC is over kill for a target.
a high nickel welding rod will work as will 7018 it's just a matter of how you weld it.
I've made 100's of loader buckets using ar500 for wear plates welded to the underside of the bucket using a mig with arctec 70s6 wire (a standard mild steel wire) for manufacturing with no problems.
use a cutting torch (oxy/ acetylene, NO propane it's the shits) or plasma don't piss around with drilling if the holes are just for bolts and chain you only need to be close, CNC is over kill for a target.
a high nickel welding rod will work as will 7018 it's just a matter of how you weld it.
I've made 100's of loader buckets using ar500 for wear plates welded to the underside of the bucket using a mig with arctec 70s6 wire (a standard mild steel wire) for manufacturing with no problems.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: birddog762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER. </div></div>
they will never ever work only if you don't try it.....read a couple of post back.......take it to a machine shop and they may use carbide cutters......whats on the end of a masonry bit....carbide
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: birddog762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER. </div></div>
they will never ever work only if you don't try it.....read a couple of post back.......take it to a machine shop and they may use carbide cutters......whats on the end of a masonry bit....carbide
Re: drilling thru steel
use carbide chisel and a small hammer if the plasma does not work
use carbide chisel and a small hammer if the plasma does not work
Re: drilling thru steel
mag drill with an annular cutter would prolly work pretty well...most structural steel shops will have a few of those laying around
mag drill with an annular cutter would prolly work pretty well...most structural steel shops will have a few of those laying around
Re: drilling thru steel
At our shop we use to re-line hoppers at batch plants with AR500 use 110 lbs per sq in welding rod or mig wire. This will do the trick , preheat and don't over heat while welding.procovert 45 gave you the best advice & information. Do not use any 70 series rod or wire you will not be happy with the results.
At our shop we use to re-line hoppers at batch plants with AR500 use 110 lbs per sq in welding rod or mig wire. This will do the trick , preheat and don't over heat while welding.procovert 45 gave you the best advice & information. Do not use any 70 series rod or wire you will not be happy with the results.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">use carbide chisel and a small hammer</span> if the plasma does not work </div></div>
After that I can never take anything you say seriously.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">use carbide chisel and a small hammer</span> if the plasma does not work </div></div>
After that I can never take anything you say seriously.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CST</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it for me to drill a couple holes into my AR500 plate? Is it possible? My welds broke on the mount so I figure I put some holes into it to hang </div></div>
Find someone with a waterjet machine!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CST</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it for me to drill a couple holes into my AR500 plate? Is it possible? My welds broke on the mount so I figure I put some holes into it to hang </div></div>
Find someone with a waterjet machine!
Re: drilling thru steel
Ure right morris prob not a good idea.
Ure right morris prob not a good idea.
Re: drilling thru steel
If you have a cutting torch, or even better a mixing handle with a brazing tip attached, Anneal the places you would like to drill.
From Wikipedia:
Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating to above the recrystallization temperature and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
Do a "local heat". Which is to only heat the area you wish to machine (drilling is machining) and let it cool slowly. The old blacksmith way of annealing is to heat it, and then bury it in cool ashes so that is cools slowly. Once it cools it will be annealed and thereby softened allowing you to drill it with a decent drill bit.
Also, oil is used to lubricate a car engine, water is used to cool the engine. Oil is NOT used to drill holes, water is (or water based coolants). You do not want the drill bit lubricated and sliding across the stock. You want it to cut the stock, and stay cool while it is cutting so that it doesn't heat up, become annealed, lose it's hardness and is no longer a useful drill bit. See how all this ties together?
If you have a cutting torch, or even better a mixing handle with a brazing tip attached, Anneal the places you would like to drill.
From Wikipedia:
Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating to above the recrystallization temperature and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
Do a "local heat". Which is to only heat the area you wish to machine (drilling is machining) and let it cool slowly. The old blacksmith way of annealing is to heat it, and then bury it in cool ashes so that is cools slowly. Once it cools it will be annealed and thereby softened allowing you to drill it with a decent drill bit.
Also, oil is used to lubricate a car engine, water is used to cool the engine. Oil is NOT used to drill holes, water is (or water based coolants). You do not want the drill bit lubricated and sliding across the stock. You want it to cut the stock, and stay cool while it is cutting so that it doesn't heat up, become annealed, lose it's hardness and is no longer a useful drill bit. See how all this ties together?
Re: drilling thru steel
whos got that dead horse avatar?
whos got that dead horse avatar?
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Halligan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have a cutting torch, or even better a mixing handle with a brazing tip attached, Anneal the places you would like to drill.
From Wikipedia:
Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating to above the recrystallization temperature and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
Do a "local heat". Which is to only heat the area you wish to machine (drilling is machining) and let it cool slowly. The old blacksmith way of annealing is to heat it, and then bury it in cool ashes so that is cools slowly. Once it cools it will be annealed and thereby softened allowing you to drill it with a decent drill bit.
Also, oil is used to lubricate a car engine, water is used to cool the engine. Oil is NOT used to drill holes, water is (or water based coolants). You do not want the drill bit lubricated and sliding across the stock. You want it to cut the stock, and stay cool while it is cutting so that it doesn't heat up, become annealed, lose it's hardness and is no longer a useful drill bit. See how all this ties together? </div></div>
I just leave the piece I'm working on in my forge to anneal! You have to be careful depending on the steel you are working with since some steels can air harden.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Halligan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have a cutting torch, or even better a mixing handle with a brazing tip attached, Anneal the places you would like to drill.
From Wikipedia:
Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating to above the recrystallization temperature and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
Do a "local heat". Which is to only heat the area you wish to machine (drilling is machining) and let it cool slowly. The old blacksmith way of annealing is to heat it, and then bury it in cool ashes so that is cools slowly. Once it cools it will be annealed and thereby softened allowing you to drill it with a decent drill bit.
Also, oil is used to lubricate a car engine, water is used to cool the engine. Oil is NOT used to drill holes, water is (or water based coolants). You do not want the drill bit lubricated and sliding across the stock. You want it to cut the stock, and stay cool while it is cutting so that it doesn't heat up, become annealed, lose it's hardness and is no longer a useful drill bit. See how all this ties together? </div></div>
I just leave the piece I'm working on in my forge to anneal! You have to be careful depending on the steel you are working with since some steels can air harden.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stefan73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have never drilled through AR500 but I do know that cobalt bits are the best for drilling into steel. Use oil. </div></div>
Cobalt, the tool brand? The best for drilling steel?! NO
Plenty of better options out there. Snap On Tools makes drill bits for drilling metal, they are top notch. Thats what I use.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stefan73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have never drilled through AR500 but I do know that cobalt bits are the best for drilling into steel. Use oil. </div></div>
Cobalt, the tool brand? The best for drilling steel?! NO
Plenty of better options out there. Snap On Tools makes drill bits for drilling metal, they are top notch. Thats what I use.
Re: drilling thru steel
Procovert- dead horse point taken, but I have to respond
Stefan- Annealing a large section of the steel will soften a large section of the steel and it could require a very large forge to anneal and subsequently reheat to retemper. That is why I mentioned a local heat; heat only the section you need to machine instead of a larger area the you do not need to machine. Also, few of us have forges in the shop these days, oxy-fuel rigs are everywhere.
As far as the oil for drilling; I guess the thousand plus holes I drill in plate steel a year, using a water based coolant, does not mean that I have any credibility when I advised to use it, huh?
Procovert- dead horse point taken, but I have to respond
Stefan- Annealing a large section of the steel will soften a large section of the steel and it could require a very large forge to anneal and subsequently reheat to retemper. That is why I mentioned a local heat; heat only the section you need to machine instead of a larger area the you do not need to machine. Also, few of us have forges in the shop these days, oxy-fuel rigs are everywhere.
As far as the oil for drilling; I guess the thousand plus holes I drill in plate steel a year, using a water based coolant, does not mean that I have any credibility when I advised to use it, huh?
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYshooter338$</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stefan73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have never drilled through AR500 but I do know that cobalt bits are the best for drilling into steel. Use oil. </div></div>
Cobalt, the tool brand? The best for drilling steel?! NO
Plenty of better options out there. Snap On Tools makes drill bits for drilling metal, they are top notch. Thats what I use. </div></div>
No, not Kobalt. You are thinking of the Lowes store brand.
Cobalt is a better type of metal than plain high speed steel bits.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYshooter338$</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stefan73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have never drilled through AR500 but I do know that cobalt bits are the best for drilling into steel. Use oil. </div></div>
Cobalt, the tool brand? The best for drilling steel?! NO
Plenty of better options out there. Snap On Tools makes drill bits for drilling metal, they are top notch. Thats what I use. </div></div>
No, not Kobalt. You are thinking of the Lowes store brand.
Cobalt is a better type of metal than plain high speed steel bits.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: birddog762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER. </div></div>
Guarantee it will work I will not go into a lot of details (of what was drilled). With the correct pressure and speed that type of bit will not have a problem.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: birddog762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron</div></div> dude,you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. a masonry bit would NEVER WORK,EVER. </div></div>
Guarantee it will work I will not go into a lot of details (of what was drilled). With the correct pressure and speed that type of bit will not have a problem.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Guarantee it will work I will not go into a lot of details (of what was drilled).</div></div>
I watched a “professional lock smith” drill through the 1/8” hard plate in a gun safe once using this technique. Took him hours with a hand drill and many trips back to get more bits. Would have been a few minutes with my magnetic drill and the bits linked to by WRM. Keep the drill speed low and the feed high.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Guarantee it will work I will not go into a lot of details (of what was drilled).</div></div>
I watched a “professional lock smith” drill through the 1/8” hard plate in a gun safe once using this technique. Took him hours with a hand drill and many trips back to get more bits. Would have been a few minutes with my magnetic drill and the bits linked to by WRM. Keep the drill speed low and the feed high.
Re: drilling thru steel
Just buy some API .308 and shoot the holes into it. Stand real close with the muzzle on the plate for correct hole placement. Take video.
Just buy some API .308 and shoot the holes into it. Stand real close with the muzzle on the plate for correct hole placement. Take video.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron </div></div>
I gave this same advice a couple years ago.
Yes, it does work!
Hey what do I know.
I just remove little broken taps.
Just a hole in AR plate?
Case of beer sounds good to me.
Just a couple words.
If you break something you didn't want to then just stop!
Punching a big hole in AR is easy compared to most problems.
Stainless for welding works good(TIG), because it mixes with unknown parent material.
Slow cool in a bucket of kitty litter.
Don't quench in water!
TC
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron </div></div>
I gave this same advice a couple years ago.
Yes, it does work!
Hey what do I know.
I just remove little broken taps.
Just a hole in AR plate?
Case of beer sounds good to me.
Just a couple words.
If you break something you didn't want to then just stop!
Punching a big hole in AR is easy compared to most problems.
Stainless for welding works good(TIG), because it mixes with unknown parent material.
Slow cool in a bucket of kitty litter.
Don't quench in water!
TC
Re: drilling thru steel
Alot of the hassle will be determined by the size of the hole you want to put in the plate. The bigger the hole the harder it is to drill.
Masonary bits will work to drill hardened steel, I have used them in a pinch when I run out of my regular hardplate safe bits, do NOT use the cheap ones you can get at wallyworld! Also do not use coolant with them, you want to get the steel hot but don't get it so hot you melt the solder holding the tip on the bit. Getting the plate and bit hot anneals the steel in a small location allowing it to be penetrated, once it starts drilling don't stop till the hole is done or you will work harden the area.
Next point is you need lots and lots of pressure on the tip, drill press or other force multiplier is a must
Alot of the hassle will be determined by the size of the hole you want to put in the plate. The bigger the hole the harder it is to drill.
Masonary bits will work to drill hardened steel, I have used them in a pinch when I run out of my regular hardplate safe bits, do NOT use the cheap ones you can get at wallyworld! Also do not use coolant with them, you want to get the steel hot but don't get it so hot you melt the solder holding the tip on the bit. Getting the plate and bit hot anneals the steel in a small location allowing it to be penetrated, once it starts drilling don't stop till the hole is done or you will work harden the area.
Next point is you need lots and lots of pressure on the tip, drill press or other force multiplier is a must
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Outback</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can cut them with Oxygen & Acetylene This is the most effective way. Then when you put your bolt through GRADE 8 the soft part is covered. </div></div>
Totally agree. For target plates I would never bother drilling, drilling is only better when you can't damage whats on the other side of the plate or the surroundings.
Last safe one of our guys used a torch on caught the store it was in on fire... the boss was not amused.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Outback</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can cut them with Oxygen & Acetylene This is the most effective way. Then when you put your bolt through GRADE 8 the soft part is covered. </div></div>
Totally agree. For target plates I would never bother drilling, drilling is only better when you can't damage whats on the other side of the plate or the surroundings.
Last safe one of our guys used a torch on caught the store it was in on fire... the boss was not amused.
Re: drilling thru steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TCA4570</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron </div></div>
I gave this same advice a couple years ago.
Yes, it does work!
Hey what do I know.
I just remove little broken taps.
Just a hole in AR plate?
Case of beer sounds good to me.
Just a couple words.
If you break something you didn't want to then just stop!
Punching a big hole in AR is easy compared to most problems.
Stainless for welding works good(TIG), because it mixes with unknown parent material.
Slow cool in a bucket of kitty litter.
Don't quench in water!
TC </div></div>
i was told to try this by a old timer machinist......my first thought was that will never work.....well after hours of screwing around i figured what do i have to lose.....i'll be dam....it worked.....learned two things from this listen to the old timmers and think outside the box.
thanks tca4570 and other posters maybe they'll believe now or at least spend $5 and give it a try
Ron
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TCA4570</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">give masonary bits a try....ive used them to dill plug welds already. you have to go slow if you get them to hot the carbide comes off
Ron </div></div>
I gave this same advice a couple years ago.
Yes, it does work!
Hey what do I know.
I just remove little broken taps.
Just a hole in AR plate?
Case of beer sounds good to me.
Just a couple words.
If you break something you didn't want to then just stop!
Punching a big hole in AR is easy compared to most problems.
Stainless for welding works good(TIG), because it mixes with unknown parent material.
Slow cool in a bucket of kitty litter.
Don't quench in water!
TC </div></div>
i was told to try this by a old timer machinist......my first thought was that will never work.....well after hours of screwing around i figured what do i have to lose.....i'll be dam....it worked.....learned two things from this listen to the old timmers and think outside the box.
thanks tca4570 and other posters maybe they'll believe now or at least spend $5 and give it a try
Ron
Re: drilling thru steel
i call bs on pics outback . all targets perfectly symmetrical "almost" like a computer numerical controlled (CNC)
plasma table cut it. speaking of cnc plasmas take this plate to a fab shop with one and get this plate cut already , im gonna go find the dead horse avatar now
i call bs on pics outback . all targets perfectly symmetrical "almost" like a computer numerical controlled (CNC)
plasma table cut it. speaking of cnc plasmas take this plate to a fab shop with one and get this plate cut already , im gonna go find the dead horse avatar now
