I just received my new Nightforce 5.5-22X56 with the NP-R1 retical and zero stop. My question is why are there no horizontal graduation lines on the elevation turret, they are on the windage turret. This is probably a stupid question but they appear on their pics of the scopes on the net and in the owners manual. After reading both the retical and owners manuals I am stumped. Thanks in advance for the beating I'm about to receive, lol...
Rifle Scopes Dumb NF question
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Re: Dumb NF question
It's a good question.
The answer is that you don't really need those lines with a zero stop.
Zero the rifle, and set the zero stop. To be sure that you are on the right turn when changing elevations, turn it back down all the way to zero, then count back up.
It's a good question.
The answer is that you don't really need those lines with a zero stop.
Zero the rifle, and set the zero stop. To be sure that you are on the right turn when changing elevations, turn it back down all the way to zero, then count back up.
Re: Dumb NF question
Thanks for the info. Any advice on zero range? I was thinking 200 yds. I am new to the long range game and have learned allot from the hide already, what rings? I have a set of A.R.M.S #22 laying around thought they might work well. Thanks for the education...
Thanks for the info. Any advice on zero range? I was thinking 200 yds. I am new to the long range game and have learned allot from the hide already, what rings? I have a set of A.R.M.S #22 laying around thought they might work well. Thanks for the education...
Re: Dumb NF question
The non-zero stop models DO have graduation lines.
Zero at 100 yards.
From my experience, ARMS products suck, get a set of NF, badger or seekins rings.
The non-zero stop models DO have graduation lines.
Zero at 100 yards.
From my experience, ARMS products suck, get a set of NF, badger or seekins rings.
Re: Dumb NF question
Zero at 100 yards. That's the shortest distance you will probably shoot with a precision rifle. Inside that distance you will hold over, or dial some elevation - that's an advanced topic.
With a zero stop and a 200 yard zero, you would have to hold under using the reticle inside that range. Might as well just start at 100.
With a 100 yard zero, everything is up and it's easier to memorize your dope, which also gives you a sense of how the elevation changes as you go out.
Zero at 100 yards. That's the shortest distance you will probably shoot with a precision rifle. Inside that distance you will hold over, or dial some elevation - that's an advanced topic.
With a zero stop and a 200 yard zero, you would have to hold under using the reticle inside that range. Might as well just start at 100.
With a 100 yard zero, everything is up and it's easier to memorize your dope, which also gives you a sense of how the elevation changes as you go out.
Re: Dumb NF question
Get the NF rings! No lapping or other mess to deal with. Throw them on and your done.
I dont know why NF charges the same for the steel and the aluminum, but its your choice of metals.
Good Luck
Get the NF rings! No lapping or other mess to deal with. Throw them on and your done.
I dont know why NF charges the same for the steel and the aluminum, but its your choice of metals.
Good Luck
Re: Dumb NF question
the aluminum is the better value, lighter and stronger than the steel rings.they are actually anodized aluminum with titanium connection points call ken at night force and he'll tell you the same thing.
the aluminum is the better value, lighter and stronger than the steel rings.they are actually anodized aluminum with titanium connection points call ken at night force and he'll tell you the same thing.
Re: Dumb NF question
I do not understand why NF didnt just throw the rotation indicators on the zero-stop models also. So what if it has a zero-stop I would still like to know the rotation just by looking. So lets just say someone did forget there rotation...lets back it all the way down and then back up again...Stupid. Still good scopes, seeing how I own one also. Just a little weird I guess.
GG
I do not understand why NF didnt just throw the rotation indicators on the zero-stop models also. So what if it has a zero-stop I would still like to know the rotation just by looking. So lets just say someone did forget there rotation...lets back it all the way down and then back up again...Stupid. Still good scopes, seeing how I own one also. Just a little weird I guess.
GG
Re: Dumb NF question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Opticsspecialist</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the aluminum is the better value, lighter and stronger than the steel rings.they are actually anodized aluminum with titanium connection points call ken at night force and he'll tell you the same thing. </div></div>
+1
I have both and prefer the Al / ti rings .
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Opticsspecialist</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the aluminum is the better value, lighter and stronger than the steel rings.they are actually anodized aluminum with titanium connection points call ken at night force and he'll tell you the same thing. </div></div>
+1
I have both and prefer the Al / ti rings .
Re: Dumb NF question
I agree with all of the above. Just bought the NF rail and Ultralight rings. They came highly recommended and I was happy that I chose them. If you do a search on the hide they have a formula for the rings that are best for the scope and your rifle. The math is a bit painful but worth it in the end.
I agree with all of the above. Just bought the NF rail and Ultralight rings. They came highly recommended and I was happy that I chose them. If you do a search on the hide they have a formula for the rings that are best for the scope and your rifle. The math is a bit painful but worth it in the end.
Re: Dumb NF question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GunGuru727</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do not understand why NF didnt just throw the rotation indicators on the zero-stop models also. So what if it has a zero-stop I would still like to know the rotation just by looking. So lets just say someone did forget there rotation...lets back it all the way down and then back up again...Stupid. Still good scopes, seeing how I own one also. Just a little weird I guess.
GG </div></div>
Not sure there would be a good reason, the knobs actual height (at zero) will vary based on your zero, while my zero might be at 3 full revolutions\lines up, yours might be at 4, we both just crank it all the way down until we hit the stop to get back. Maybe if they had a fixture that put the lines relative to the stop that would be a better solution.
Yes I can see it if you "know" that your zero is 3 lines up and you are showing 5 that your intermediate DOPE is at say 4.3. so come down X clicks.
When I did a LR class we were taught to always come up off zero and reset to zero when we were done, guess NF is of the same mindset.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GunGuru727</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do not understand why NF didnt just throw the rotation indicators on the zero-stop models also. So what if it has a zero-stop I would still like to know the rotation just by looking. So lets just say someone did forget there rotation...lets back it all the way down and then back up again...Stupid. Still good scopes, seeing how I own one also. Just a little weird I guess.
GG </div></div>
Not sure there would be a good reason, the knobs actual height (at zero) will vary based on your zero, while my zero might be at 3 full revolutions\lines up, yours might be at 4, we both just crank it all the way down until we hit the stop to get back. Maybe if they had a fixture that put the lines relative to the stop that would be a better solution.
Yes I can see it if you "know" that your zero is 3 lines up and you are showing 5 that your intermediate DOPE is at say 4.3. so come down X clicks.
When I did a LR class we were taught to always come up off zero and reset to zero when we were done, guess NF is of the same mindset.
Re: Dumb NF question
Wtf !!!
I have a 5.5-22 x 56 Mil / Mil Dot with Zero Stop and my scope has graduation lines !!
Is there something out of place going on here????
Wtf !!!
I have a 5.5-22 x 56 Mil / Mil Dot with Zero Stop and my scope has graduation lines !!
Is there something out of place going on here????
Re: Dumb NF question
+1 on ultralite rings.
If you have a zero-stop, I would suggest setting zero-stop at 100 yards. Then get sighted at 200 yards, and move the actual number "0" elevation there. That way your zero-stop is sighted for 100 yards, and your actual "0" is sighted for 200 yards. Best of both worlds, without any compromise.
+1 on ultralite rings.
If you have a zero-stop, I would suggest setting zero-stop at 100 yards. Then get sighted at 200 yards, and move the actual number "0" elevation there. That way your zero-stop is sighted for 100 yards, and your actual "0" is sighted for 200 yards. Best of both worlds, without any compromise.
Re: Dumb NF question
Maybe less adjustment at longer distances? I will take your advice Lindy and zero at 100, seems to make sense to me. Like stated earlier I'm new to this and will take any help I can get. Thanks all for your insight.
Maybe less adjustment at longer distances? I will take your advice Lindy and zero at 100, seems to make sense to me. Like stated earlier I'm new to this and will take any help I can get. Thanks all for your insight.
Re: Dumb NF question
Just a good way to mess yourself up under pressure. 100 yard zero at the 0 mark and dial up. the .4 or .5 mils difference between 100 and 200 yards isn't going to make a difference in dialing for longer distances.
Just a good way to mess yourself up under pressure. 100 yard zero at the 0 mark and dial up. the .4 or .5 mils difference between 100 and 200 yards isn't going to make a difference in dialing for longer distances.
Re: Dumb NF question
The difference between a 100 yard zero and a 200 yard zero on a typical .308 is about 2 MOA.
That's not a significant difference.
If you're hunting, though, and want to maximize your point-blank range, it can make sense, although may people find a 300 yard zero works better, depending on your load.
If you are a precision rifle shooter, though, and want to maximize the range you can shoot using reticle holds, a 500 or 600 yard zero makes more sense.
Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero.
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
The difference between a 100 yard zero and a 200 yard zero on a typical .308 is about 2 MOA.
That's not a significant difference.
If you're hunting, though, and want to maximize your point-blank range, it can make sense, although may people find a 300 yard zero works better, depending on your load.
If you are a precision rifle shooter, though, and want to maximize the range you can shoot using reticle holds, a 500 or 600 yard zero makes more sense.
Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero.
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
Re: Dumb NF question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
</div></div>
That too. With a 100 yard zero you will only have to dial up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
</div></div>
That too. With a 100 yard zero you will only have to dial up.
Re: Dumb NF question
Hey Lindy what unique feature are you speaking of? "Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero". Sorry to make you type but need more info...
Hey Lindy what unique feature are you speaking of? "Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero". Sorry to make you type but need more info...
Re: Dumb NF question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero.
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
</div></div>
That's it.
If you have a zero beyond 100 yards/meters, you're going to have to hold <span style="font-style: italic">low</span> inside the zero range, or dial down, and if you're shooting beyond the zero range, you'll have to hold or dial <span style="font-style: italic">high</span>. That can be confusing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most people find that a 100 yard (or meter) zero works best because of a unique feature with that zero.
If you're shooting inside 100 yards from that zero, you'll have to hold high because of mechanical offset, i.e., the sight is mounted above the barrel.
If you're shooting beyond 100 yards, you'll also have to hold (or dial) high. Less confusion.
</div></div>
That's it.
If you have a zero beyond 100 yards/meters, you're going to have to hold <span style="font-style: italic">low</span> inside the zero range, or dial down, and if you're shooting beyond the zero range, you'll have to hold or dial <span style="font-style: italic">high</span>. That can be confusing.
Re: Dumb NF question
I just looked at my Nightforce NXS 5.5-22, and it has marks on the turret every 0.25 MOA and longer hashes with numbers every 1 MOA. The ones I've seen all have the same, looking on their website confirms this. Unless you special order something different...like mils to match your mildot, etc. You may want to check your box or all manufactors to see why.
I just looked at my Nightforce NXS 5.5-22, and it has marks on the turret every 0.25 MOA and longer hashes with numbers every 1 MOA. The ones I've seen all have the same, looking on their website confirms this. Unless you special order something different...like mils to match your mildot, etc. You may want to check your box or all manufactors to see why.
Re: Dumb NF question
To each their own, but most military engagements and humane hunting situations take place within 200 yards. I know others may argue otherwise, and brag about taking longer shots, but this is a general statement and there are expections.
The advantage in zeroing at 200 yards is that within that distance you can aim your crosshairs on the target and still be in the kill zone...you may not have enough time to adjust your scope or click your turrets.
For a 308 win, depending on the load from a 155gr to 200gr, the drop at 100 yards is about 1.5 to 2 inches. For silhouette or steel targets, that is close enough. For target shooting and some competitions, that is not very accurate, so that is why I advocate zeroing (setting your "0" on turret) at 200 yards and setting your zero-stop at 100 yards.
Every additional factor can be confusing, but with practice and assuming you use the same load each time, it is very easy...just turn "down" until the turret stops for 100 yards, and turn "up" to "0" for 200 yards. Just my own preference, for my applications...your may be different.
If you are convinced you will be using the same load all the time, you can even mark your turret with a silver sharpie at 300 yards, 400 yards. But I would only do this if you don't switch loads or scopes between rifles, and are absolutely sure. For me, this is a lot faster and a lot less confusing then looking on a dope card. When you are nervous, it is easy to look on the wrong line or even lose your dope card. That is also why I like scope cap stickers dope cards (scope dope), but that is another topic.
Even with the heaviest bullet you can find in most calibers, the difference in drop up to 1000yards from zeroing at 100yards vs. 200yards won't likely be beyond your NXS scope adjustment capability of 100 MOA. So choose whichever works for you, there isn't an absolutely "correct way" of doing this, whichever is your preference.
To each their own, but most military engagements and humane hunting situations take place within 200 yards. I know others may argue otherwise, and brag about taking longer shots, but this is a general statement and there are expections.
The advantage in zeroing at 200 yards is that within that distance you can aim your crosshairs on the target and still be in the kill zone...you may not have enough time to adjust your scope or click your turrets.
For a 308 win, depending on the load from a 155gr to 200gr, the drop at 100 yards is about 1.5 to 2 inches. For silhouette or steel targets, that is close enough. For target shooting and some competitions, that is not very accurate, so that is why I advocate zeroing (setting your "0" on turret) at 200 yards and setting your zero-stop at 100 yards.
Every additional factor can be confusing, but with practice and assuming you use the same load each time, it is very easy...just turn "down" until the turret stops for 100 yards, and turn "up" to "0" for 200 yards. Just my own preference, for my applications...your may be different.
If you are convinced you will be using the same load all the time, you can even mark your turret with a silver sharpie at 300 yards, 400 yards. But I would only do this if you don't switch loads or scopes between rifles, and are absolutely sure. For me, this is a lot faster and a lot less confusing then looking on a dope card. When you are nervous, it is easy to look on the wrong line or even lose your dope card. That is also why I like scope cap stickers dope cards (scope dope), but that is another topic.
Even with the heaviest bullet you can find in most calibers, the difference in drop up to 1000yards from zeroing at 100yards vs. 200yards won't likely be beyond your NXS scope adjustment capability of 100 MOA. So choose whichever works for you, there isn't an absolutely "correct way" of doing this, whichever is your preference.
Re: Dumb NF question
I shoot a scope with a FFP reticle having 5 mils of marks below the main crosshairs.
With the scope on a hundred yard zero, I can engage targets out to 600 yards without dialing elevation by using holdovers below the main crosshairs. I have memorized the holdovers required to do that.
If you want speed, that's the way to do it.
I shoot a scope with a FFP reticle having 5 mils of marks below the main crosshairs.
With the scope on a hundred yard zero, I can engage targets out to 600 yards without dialing elevation by using holdovers below the main crosshairs. I have memorized the holdovers required to do that.
If you want speed, that's the way to do it.
Re: Dumb NF question
Ok guys sounds as though there are multiple good ideas being offered here. Over time I'm sure I'll have my own way of doing things, thanks again for the use of your craniums. Keep up the great work...
Ok guys sounds as though there are multiple good ideas being offered here. Over time I'm sure I'll have my own way of doing things, thanks again for the use of your craniums. Keep up the great work...
