Gunsmithing duracoat
- Thread starter Ryanar15
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Re: duracoat
It is pretty tough stuff when the surface is prepped right and allowed to cure right. I think cerakote is a tougher coating when all is said and done. I still do all my custom paint work at this time using duracoat
It is pretty tough stuff when the surface is prepped right and allowed to cure right. I think cerakote is a tougher coating when all is said and done. I still do all my custom paint work at this time using duracoat
Re: duracoat
Duracoat is a tough finish that will last provided you prep right. Preping the metal is the key to the whole thing. Give the stuff a clean roughed up surface then let it cure correctly and you will have a finish that you damn near have to sandblast off.
Duracoat is a tough finish that will last provided you prep right. Preping the metal is the key to the whole thing. Give the stuff a clean roughed up surface then let it cure correctly and you will have a finish that you damn near have to sandblast off.
Re: duracoat
Metal prep is a must. Degrease and blast with 120# alum. ox. Mix proper hardner and apply in thin even coats. Finish will last as long as you do.
Metal prep is a must. Degrease and blast with 120# alum. ox. Mix proper hardner and apply in thin even coats. Finish will last as long as you do.
Re: duracoat
+1 on the prep, its key to a lasting finish. I usualy use 70 grit aluminum oxide
+1 on the prep, its key to a lasting finish. I usualy use 70 grit aluminum oxide
Re: duracoat
I have coated quite a few weapons over the past year. All are wearing excellent! Or should I say "not wearing". The folks at Lauer Weaponry are great to deal with, I have talked to their techs several times and this summer will be DuraCoating a CJ5! I can't wait!!
Prep Prep Prep..... They recommend 120 aluminum oxide (I setup a small cabinet and use only that). Degrease first, then blast, then blow off w/ air. They recommend not degreasing again after that.
BIG NOTE: Let it CURE!!! The ONLY issues I have had have been with not letting it cure long enough. I believe the directions say 'dry to the touch in an hour', can re-assemble in 24 hours. Now comes the time frame most do not do. If you talk to one of the techs there, they recommend 30 days with no use or light usage. THIRTY. Most won't wait that long and then they wonder why it shows holster wear or got a scratch so easy. Put it up and let it cure. You won't regret the wait.
Am about to do another rifle here soon... Flat OD Green... my favorite.
I have coated quite a few weapons over the past year. All are wearing excellent! Or should I say "not wearing". The folks at Lauer Weaponry are great to deal with, I have talked to their techs several times and this summer will be DuraCoating a CJ5! I can't wait!!
Prep Prep Prep..... They recommend 120 aluminum oxide (I setup a small cabinet and use only that). Degrease first, then blast, then blow off w/ air. They recommend not degreasing again after that.
BIG NOTE: Let it CURE!!! The ONLY issues I have had have been with not letting it cure long enough. I believe the directions say 'dry to the touch in an hour', can re-assemble in 24 hours. Now comes the time frame most do not do. If you talk to one of the techs there, they recommend 30 days with no use or light usage. THIRTY. Most won't wait that long and then they wonder why it shows holster wear or got a scratch so easy. Put it up and let it cure. You won't regret the wait.
Am about to do another rifle here soon... Flat OD Green... my favorite.
Re: duracoat
+1 on the suggestion MrClean. A little time in a drying oven helps too.
Duracoat keeps curing over time. The wait isn't a bad idea at all.
+1 on the suggestion MrClean. A little time in a drying oven helps too.
Duracoat keeps curing over time. The wait isn't a bad idea at all.
Re: duracoat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gettn2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lauer Weaponry is great and very informative.
Thin coats ... let it flash between coats and you will good to go.
As has been said ... be patient (something I struggle with) and let it cure ... Great stuff! </div></div>
So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gettn2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lauer Weaponry is great and very informative.
Thin coats ... let it flash between coats and you will good to go.
As has been said ... be patient (something I struggle with) and let it cure ... Great stuff! </div></div>
So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle...
Re: duracoat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MrClean</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have coated quite a few weapons over the past year. All are wearing excellent! Or should I say "not wearing". The folks at Lauer Weaponry are great to deal with, I have talked to their techs several times and this summer will be DuraCoating a CJ5! I can't wait!!</div></div>
Something that keeps me awake at night is the following: What do folks who use duracoat do about the "inside" of their actions? I.e., if you have a non-stainless action and don't want it to rust, do you apply the duracoat inside the action too (bolt raceway, area around lugs, etc.) or just rely on hefty oil/grease in there? If you DO apply the duracoat in there, too, how on earth do you do that? Can you reach in there with an airbrush? Do you just let the overspray get in there and call it good?
Appreciate any info!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MrClean</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have coated quite a few weapons over the past year. All are wearing excellent! Or should I say "not wearing". The folks at Lauer Weaponry are great to deal with, I have talked to their techs several times and this summer will be DuraCoating a CJ5! I can't wait!!</div></div>
Something that keeps me awake at night is the following: What do folks who use duracoat do about the "inside" of their actions? I.e., if you have a non-stainless action and don't want it to rust, do you apply the duracoat inside the action too (bolt raceway, area around lugs, etc.) or just rely on hefty oil/grease in there? If you DO apply the duracoat in there, too, how on earth do you do that? Can you reach in there with an airbrush? Do you just let the overspray get in there and call it good?
Appreciate any info!
Re: duracoat
Inside surfaces that are not "exact" tolerances can be coated, but probably limit it to one coat.
Dont NOT coat surfaces that require machine level tolerances... I.E. Lugs, Bolt Face, or Chamber. The bolt body itself can be coated, as well as most of the rest of the the inside of the reciever.
Just basically keep in mind that anything that has tight machine tollerances should not be coated. Anything else can be coated. But the inside should be limited to one coat or you run the risk of tightening things up too much and causing things to drag.
If you find the duracoat causes to be to tight, folks on this board have said that the gel type epoxy removers can remove it. There was a thread on here someplace about using it for removal as opposed to sandblasting.
Good Luck!! And when doing the insides of the reciever, more is not always better.
Inside surfaces that are not "exact" tolerances can be coated, but probably limit it to one coat.
Dont NOT coat surfaces that require machine level tolerances... I.E. Lugs, Bolt Face, or Chamber. The bolt body itself can be coated, as well as most of the rest of the the inside of the reciever.
Just basically keep in mind that anything that has tight machine tollerances should not be coated. Anything else can be coated. But the inside should be limited to one coat or you run the risk of tightening things up too much and causing things to drag.
If you find the duracoat causes to be to tight, folks on this board have said that the gel type epoxy removers can remove it. There was a thread on here someplace about using it for removal as opposed to sandblasting.
Good Luck!! And when doing the insides of the reciever, more is not always better.
Re: duracoat
So do you need to break down every major part of the weapon to duracoat or should you prep and reassemble then duracoat?
So do you need to break down every major part of the weapon to duracoat or should you prep and reassemble then duracoat?
Re: duracoat
I break it down and coat each part. You have to pay attention to parts with tight tolerences. A light coat with an airbrush for the small/tight parts.
I do this for the base coat and reassemble before doing any design/camo work.
Let it cure good before reassembly though.
I break it down and coat each part. You have to pay attention to parts with tight tolerences. A light coat with an airbrush for the small/tight parts.
I do this for the base coat and reassemble before doing any design/camo work.
Let it cure good before reassembly though.
Re: duracoat
Appreciate the info.
Appreciate the info.
Re: duracoat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biglakesrule</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle... </div></div>
I try to allow for 10-15 minute flash time in between coats. My flash times are with a heat source so in a more cool environment you may want to go longer. I like to give the solvents time to vapor off. If you have any questions call Randy at Lauer.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biglakesrule</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle... </div></div>
I try to allow for 10-15 minute flash time in between coats. My flash times are with a heat source so in a more cool environment you may want to go longer. I like to give the solvents time to vapor off. If you have any questions call Randy at Lauer.
Re: duracoat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biglakesrule</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gettn2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lauer Weaponry is great and very informative.
Thin coats ... let it flash between coats and you will good to go.
As has been said ... be patient (something I struggle with) and let it cure ... Great stuff! </div></div>
So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle...</div></div>
FWIW, I've more or less decided to "hire it out" since, although I enjoy the build and paint process, I would rather have it done right the first time, sooner, and without having to invest in gear and experience. I.e., to the field sooner! Thanks for the help!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biglakesrule</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gettn2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lauer Weaponry is great and very informative.
Thin coats ... let it flash between coats and you will good to go.
As has been said ... be patient (something I struggle with) and let it cure ... Great stuff! </div></div>
So, about how long between the coats? I am trying to decide how to finish a new (TBD) rifle...</div></div>
FWIW, I've more or less decided to "hire it out" since, although I enjoy the build and paint process, I would rather have it done right the first time, sooner, and without having to invest in gear and experience. I.e., to the field sooner! Thanks for the help!
Re: duracoat
Sorry, I'm a little late jumping in here... I agree with everything already posted, and understand that BigLake has decided not to duracoat his gun but have one tip on the inside of the actions.
You can hit the insides with a light coat of matte clear. That will help protect it and it won't look crappy when areas start wearing. You have to be a little careful because you won't know how much you've laid down (because it's clear) but if you've got some practice...you'll know.
As has been stated, don't coat items with very tight tolerances.
Happy painting.
Sorry, I'm a little late jumping in here... I agree with everything already posted, and understand that BigLake has decided not to duracoat his gun but have one tip on the inside of the actions.
You can hit the insides with a light coat of matte clear. That will help protect it and it won't look crappy when areas start wearing. You have to be a little careful because you won't know how much you've laid down (because it's clear) but if you've got some practice...you'll know.
As has been stated, don't coat items with very tight tolerances.
Happy painting.
Re: duracoat
Cerakote is better but applying it means more than which product is used.
Poor prep or application and Cerakote is no better.
Cerakote is better but applying it means more than which product is used.
Poor prep or application and Cerakote is no better.
