I have a remington 700 adl, I was thinking of painting the stock and barrel only not action OD green. Does this sound crazy? Should I just paint the stock, it does need something done to it, just thought the barrel would be neat. But it could also be corny. Thats why i ask before I start spraying!!
Gunsmithing Duracoating?
- Thread starter keith jones
- Start date
Re: Duracoating?
I have a buddy / coworker that runs a service called "the painted gun".
He is a lauer certified duracoat guy, and talks my ear off about it all the time. Basically the duracoat requires blasting to bare metal, parkarizing, and then spray painting if I'm not mistaken under ideal circumstances.
I think you might be better served with something like Cerakote. I know Cerakote is tenacious and I think just about any finish would be easier to work with than Duracoat. It sounds really temper-mental, and I've used it a couple times with no luck on steel. <my parts were not parkarized and the finish was kind of hard and scrape-able.
I have a buddy / coworker that runs a service called "the painted gun".
He is a lauer certified duracoat guy, and talks my ear off about it all the time. Basically the duracoat requires blasting to bare metal, parkarizing, and then spray painting if I'm not mistaken under ideal circumstances.
I think you might be better served with something like Cerakote. I know Cerakote is tenacious and I think just about any finish would be easier to work with than Duracoat. It sounds really temper-mental, and I've used it a couple times with no luck on steel. <my parts were not parkarized and the finish was kind of hard and scrape-able.
Re: Duracoating?
I'm not a certified Duracoat painter, but I have done my own rifles without blasting to bare metal or parkarizing and they have held up fine. Is it as good as Cerakote... I don't think so, but for me it works great. (I also don't have an oven that big to cure it). My prep for Duracoat is to blast off crud with carb cleaner, sand with 220 grit paper, spray again with carb cleaner, then a latex gloves and acetone wipedown and then spray my first color. So far it's worked for me. Ymmv
I'm not a certified Duracoat painter, but I have done my own rifles without blasting to bare metal or parkarizing and they have held up fine. Is it as good as Cerakote... I don't think so, but for me it works great. (I also don't have an oven that big to cure it). My prep for Duracoat is to blast off crud with carb cleaner, sand with 220 grit paper, spray again with carb cleaner, then a latex gloves and acetone wipedown and then spray my first color. So far it's worked for me. Ymmv
Re: Duracoating?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not a certified Duracoat painter, but I have done my own rifles without blasting to bare metal or parkarizing and they have held up fine. </div></div>
I agree. As long as it is clean, it will stick. I've sprayed several rifles over Blue and bare SS.
Although for a single color on metal I prefer Norrell's Moly.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not a certified Duracoat painter, but I have done my own rifles without blasting to bare metal or parkarizing and they have held up fine. </div></div>
I agree. As long as it is clean, it will stick. I've sprayed several rifles over Blue and bare SS.
Although for a single color on metal I prefer Norrell's Moly.
Re: Duracoating?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... Basically the duracoat requires blasting to bare metal, parkarizing, and then spray painting if I'm not mistaken under ideal circumstances.</div></div>
I got certified at Lauer a year or so ago ... blast, park and spray is the preferred method for steel. It preps the material for best adhesion (a parkerized finish will soak up the duracoat). If you don't blast or park, at least thoroughly clean all materials with acetone or denatured alcohol to remove oils and residue.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... Basically the duracoat requires blasting to bare metal, parkarizing, and then spray painting if I'm not mistaken under ideal circumstances.</div></div>
I got certified at Lauer a year or so ago ... blast, park and spray is the preferred method for steel. It preps the material for best adhesion (a parkerized finish will soak up the duracoat). If you don't blast or park, at least thoroughly clean all materials with acetone or denatured alcohol to remove oils and residue.
Re: Duracoating?
+1 not a certified duracoater, but I've simply done blue removal/strip and then scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and shot. It turned out fine and I've done it with simply scuffing the finish that is there and then shooting, no problems. I've done it over tennfier on a glock with simply scuffing and it has held up just fine. I think the key is of course having clean parts to work with. I've done alot of automotive type painting and as with this type of painting you need something for the paint to "bite" to. I'm no professional, but it's simply a matter of doing good prep work, however, a blasted part with have something to bite to as well. Parkerizing....well I've never tried it and haven't went to Laurers sight in awhile, but last time I was there, I did not see anything about it. They simply stated to blast it with something like 120 aluminum oxide and shoot it. Seems like it would be an extra, uneeded, step, but as I said I'm not certified. I would also think that a clean part and some self-etching primer would be a really good base for your duracoat.
+1 not a certified duracoater, but I've simply done blue removal/strip and then scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and shot. It turned out fine and I've done it with simply scuffing the finish that is there and then shooting, no problems. I've done it over tennfier on a glock with simply scuffing and it has held up just fine. I think the key is of course having clean parts to work with. I've done alot of automotive type painting and as with this type of painting you need something for the paint to "bite" to. I'm no professional, but it's simply a matter of doing good prep work, however, a blasted part with have something to bite to as well. Parkerizing....well I've never tried it and haven't went to Laurers sight in awhile, but last time I was there, I did not see anything about it. They simply stated to blast it with something like 120 aluminum oxide and shoot it. Seems like it would be an extra, uneeded, step, but as I said I'm not certified. I would also think that a clean part and some self-etching primer would be a really good base for your duracoat.
Re: Duracoating?
you can sand the metal/plastic or what ever you painting and then use a product called bulldog adhesion promotor it will make the paint stick to anything as long as it is clean.
http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-BULLDOG-ADHESION-PROMOTOR-15oz/dp/B002GUGH04
thank you
joe
you can sand the metal/plastic or what ever you painting and then use a product called bulldog adhesion promotor it will make the paint stick to anything as long as it is clean.
http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-BULLDOG-ADHESION-PROMOTOR-15oz/dp/B002GUGH04
thank you
joe
Re: Duracoating?
I've used Duracoat on a couple pistols. The finish turned out nice. I've been pleased with it. The only thing that I didn't like is that they suggest not using it for 3 to 4 weeks. The wait was hard, but I wanted to give it the best chance I could for it to cure properly.
I've used Duracoat on a couple pistols. The finish turned out nice. I've been pleased with it. The only thing that I didn't like is that they suggest not using it for 3 to 4 weeks. The wait was hard, but I wanted to give it the best chance I could for it to cure properly.
Re: Duracoating?
Did some painting yesterday and I'll post some pics. Shot the stock in OD green. I simply used Acetone to wipe the krylon off and then a scotchbrite pad to scuff it up alittle. I then used some bulldog plastic adhesion promoter on the stock.
I also did the bolt and bolt handle. Again I wiped it down with acetone and scuffed with a scothbrite pad.
I'm not quite done with the bolt handle yet, as I'm going to tape it off and shoot the knob part black to make it appear as two pieces. I shot the action black, which I have not photographed yet. I also bedded the scope rail over the weekend.
Duracoating really is not a hard process. I have never had any sandblasted and never had anything have a problem with no adhering to what ever I'm shooting it too. I use an small HVLP gun and it works just fine. Also you don't have to wait 3-4 weeks to put it back together and shoot it. I've never done that and I've never had an issue with the finish coming off. I can't say that it's not a bad idea, but I usually put my stuff back together the next day or two and shoot it withing a few days of that. You can handle it, in most cases, within an hour and actually I've put things back together with a few hours of painting it. The only issue I've ever had was when I painted a glock slide and I waited two days before I did anything with it. The glock shows alittle holster wear on the top to corners at the front of the slide. That one I probably should have done sandblasting on, but I didn't and it still looks better than the worn tennifer coating that was there before.
Did some painting yesterday and I'll post some pics. Shot the stock in OD green. I simply used Acetone to wipe the krylon off and then a scotchbrite pad to scuff it up alittle. I then used some bulldog plastic adhesion promoter on the stock.
I also did the bolt and bolt handle. Again I wiped it down with acetone and scuffed with a scothbrite pad.
I'm not quite done with the bolt handle yet, as I'm going to tape it off and shoot the knob part black to make it appear as two pieces. I shot the action black, which I have not photographed yet. I also bedded the scope rail over the weekend.
Duracoating really is not a hard process. I have never had any sandblasted and never had anything have a problem with no adhering to what ever I'm shooting it too. I use an small HVLP gun and it works just fine. Also you don't have to wait 3-4 weeks to put it back together and shoot it. I've never done that and I've never had an issue with the finish coming off. I can't say that it's not a bad idea, but I usually put my stuff back together the next day or two and shoot it withing a few days of that. You can handle it, in most cases, within an hour and actually I've put things back together with a few hours of painting it. The only issue I've ever had was when I painted a glock slide and I waited two days before I did anything with it. The glock shows alittle holster wear on the top to corners at the front of the slide. That one I probably should have done sandblasting on, but I didn't and it still looks better than the worn tennifer coating that was there before.
Re: Duracoating?
This is the end result of what I did yesterday. Also note that the bipod was already duracoated FDE by someone else and all I did was to wipe it down and shoot it with black. The second pic is the before version.
Well I guess it's not completely done, as I haven't yet put the black on the bolt knob itself. You get the picture though.
This is the end result of what I did yesterday. Also note that the bipod was already duracoated FDE by someone else and all I did was to wipe it down and shoot it with black. The second pic is the before version.
Well I guess it's not completely done, as I haven't yet put the black on the bolt knob itself. You get the picture though.
Re: Duracoating?
I very much agree. I did not blast or parkerize either of them. I used a combination of steel wool and sand paper to "rough" up the surface then hit them with "tru-strip" then duracoat. When I did my friends xD frame I just sprayed it with "tru-strip" then duracoat. He uses the xD daily and there is no sign of wear on it yet.
I very much agree. I did not blast or parkerize either of them. I used a combination of steel wool and sand paper to "rough" up the surface then hit them with "tru-strip" then duracoat. When I did my friends xD frame I just sprayed it with "tru-strip" then duracoat. He uses the xD daily and there is no sign of wear on it yet.
