I went to adjust the trigger on my Savage 10 fcp-sr and noticed the rear most trigger screw came out really easy. Upon placing everything back into the stock and attempting to torque it back down the screw just spun without being able to torque it down. Oh, it also removed a portion of the stock when removing, which I’ve attached a picture of. Can I simply increase the screw diameter slightly? It only appears to hold the trigger guard into place against the stock.
Gunsmithing Easy Question about action bolt
- Thread starter snake_charmer
- Start date
You mean the action screw that goes through the trigger guard (bottom metal) and threads into the receiver of the rifle? If so, then it sounds like the threads of the receiver are stripped which is a problem.
It’s the rear most “screw” that goes into the stock. The first two are bolts which thread into the receiver. Which is why I’m wondering if I can just go to the next larger screw size to grab the stock. This was the first time I’ve had the gun disassembled so I know that it was stripped on assembly at the factory and shipped out. I guess I should’ve checked everything over when I got it, lesson learned.
1) Don't take the rear guard screw out unless you need to clean the bottom metal.
2) Epoxy the f(*#er back in with release agent on the screw. When it is set, remove the screw, clean it off, and replace it in the stock.
This can be the sorta thing that happens with mechanized assembly.
-Nate
2) Epoxy the f(*#er back in with release agent on the screw. When it is set, remove the screw, clean it off, and replace it in the stock.
This can be the sorta thing that happens with mechanized assembly.
-Nate
Appreciate the tip on the rear guard screw. I was planning on replacing the stock eventually but it provides a nice alternative to keep it functional in the meanwhile. I don’t think I would even feel right selling a stock with epoxy to fix an assembly issue once it gets to that point would you? Maybe just sell it dirt cheap?
nah.
The Devcon will very much make the rear guard screw 145.9% better than it was from the factory. I wouldn't feel bad about that at all.
I'd get my happy drill bits out, carefully ream a 1/4" hole, fill it with goop, and pace the screw and bottom metal into/over it and wait. When it's done, if you applied wax or release agent appropriately, everything will thread/pop right out, and the epoxy is WAY stronger than that stock.
-Nate
The Devcon will very much make the rear guard screw 145.9% better than it was from the factory. I wouldn't feel bad about that at all.
I'd get my happy drill bits out, carefully ream a 1/4" hole, fill it with goop, and pace the screw and bottom metal into/over it and wait. When it's done, if you applied wax or release agent appropriately, everything will thread/pop right out, and the epoxy is WAY stronger than that stock.
-Nate
You make it sound so easy lol. At this point anything will be better than where it’s at now (un-torqued) so I don’t feel like I can mess it up a whole lot. I really appreciate the quick responses and suggestions.
No, but it'll work!
Devcon #10110 and 10210 are specific product numbers we often use; same stuff between the two, but putty and liquid, respectively.
That 2-Ton stuff will do fine for casting a screw. It's not a high strength application, if you think about it.
Prep extensively, mix thoroughly, and then move assertively.
-Nate
Devcon #10110 and 10210 are specific product numbers we often use; same stuff between the two, but putty and liquid, respectively.
That 2-Ton stuff will do fine for casting a screw. It's not a high strength application, if you think about it.
Prep extensively, mix thoroughly, and then move assertively.
-Nate
You could also get a brass insert of the same thread pitch and diameter that is knurled on the outside that will help bond it with the Devon. That is what I used when I put a savage action in a Manners stock that one of the local would be gunsmiths completely butchered and the guy that owned it was so disgusted he was just going to throw it away. I'm glad he gave it to me I love the Manners T4 now and the price was great.
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Well, I kept the receipt and they had a half dozen different alternatives so I’ll just exchange it for the right part number that everyone often uses.
Stripped screws have become common with Savage. I had a receiver screw hole get stretched because it was only engaged with two threads from the factory. Luckily a chamfer and a tap bailed me out. Check your action screws and make sure you torque them.
That sounds about right I don't think it was over a #10
These are the ones.
Attachments
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J B weld should work to but when you tighten just snug it up don’t torque like you would the action screw because all it’s holding is the back of trigger guard
Could I pick one of those up at Ace Hardware? Also the #10 you’re referring to is a new bolt to fit into the brass insert? So basically I apply the Devcon into the rear cavity, place the brass insert into the devcon, let it set for 24 hours and then install the new bolt or existing screw?
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.org
You may be able to find them at Ace or one of the other hardware stores if not just order online. I would recommend doing a dry fit first to ensure everything lines up properly considering you will have to open the original screw hole up for the insert. You will also want to make sure that the insert shoulders out against the trigger guard and is not below flush so the insert and screw take all of the load from tightening not your bedding compound. Another good tip is if You havent allready sourced the release agent kiwi neutral shoe polish works great and you can use the leftover for spiffing up you boots and shoes
Smear kiwi polish on the trigger guard and screw. Smoosh jb weld in the stock hole, and set the trigger guard and spin in screw in slowly, but don't spin it much after it seats. Tape it in place.
Its not that complex. Use kiwi all over, and it will come apart fine. It may stick a tiny bit.
Or, fill the hole with JB weld and let it harden. Then drill and tap a new hole for a machine screw.
Its not that complex. Use kiwi all over, and it will come apart fine. It may stick a tiny bit.
Or, fill the hole with JB weld and let it harden. Then drill and tap a new hole for a machine screw.
Well, first attempt with the Devcon and candle wax was unsuccessful. I let it sit and cure over night, removed the screw, cleaned off the wax, but once I went to thread in the screw it just spun without snugging up. I’ve opened it up to 15/64th drill bit and this next attempt will try the kiwi polish instead of the wax. The last attempt will be with the pan head insert since it’s onviously the most involved method. Should I just insert it and not even bother removing it? Simply trust that it will hold for the life of the rifle. Seems like a stupid design given the first two holes for the action are threaded bolts that would never run into this problem.
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